G1023SL Extension Table

[Lance Cottrell]

Newish woodworker here.... I just received my first table saw. I went with the Grizzly 1023SL and I have a question. I've read that the extension table that will fill the space between the rails on the right is easy to make, but I can't find any information about how to make it and how to attach it to the saw. Do I drill holes into the right cast iron wing and if so, do I tap them so I can screw into them or just put bolts and nuts on? Is there any trick to building it and attaching it so it is level to the cast iron wing?

Sorry for the probably novice questions.

Lance

[Jim Becker]

Welcome to SMC and congrats on your new saw!

The right side extension table one a table saw is typically supported by the fence rails, front and back. The connections to the cast iron saw table are largely to provide a height reference and keep the table flat at that important junction. If your saw/saw wing isn't drilled, you'll need to do that, but cast iron is extremely easy to bore holes in. Slow speed and a little oil for lubricant is all you need.

For the table construction, typical would be a sheet goods top with a hardwood or 3/4" plywood frame under it, including some intermediate support to keep it flat. You can use plywood or MDF for the top and put plastic laminate on top of it after assembly (maximum durability) or buy melamine covered sheet goods and use it raw for the top. I personally prefer the plastic laminate for this kind of thing, but it does add extra cost and work to the construction.

[Lance Cottrell]

Ok, just to make sure I understand correctly....I need to drill holes into both rails (front and back) and also into the cast iron top that will be to the left of the extension table? That means that the extension table will be bolted to the fence and the table top on a total of 3 sides, right?

[Jim Becker]

Correct. Many fence rails and even some cast iron tops already have holes drilled, however. If and when you drill, be sure to make the holes a hair larger than you need for your fasteners so you have a little adjustability...you need to make that extension table perfectly co-planer with your saw table. Nobody can drill perfectly with a hand-held drill... ;)

[Rob Blaustein]

What Jim said.

My version can be seen in this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=69976), if you scroll down slightly. Mine was pretty short though since I have the shorter rails and just needed something to mount my overarm guard on farther from the end of the wing. As you can see I opted for a torsion box design.

For some reason I have in my head this memory of reading something here about not using oil to drill cast iron (something about proper chip clearance?) but using it for the steel rails. I think I used it for both with no ill effects.

[Lance Cottrell]

Thanks Rob. If I'm not planning to mount anything, is it even necessary to fill that space with an extension or can I just leave it as it came? I was under the assumption that I had to make something to fit in there, but maybe I'm wrong.

[Lee Koepke]

here is what i used / did. I think the saw may look familiar !!

i had a longer beis fence from my previous iron. I bolted thru the fence angle into the hardwood edging, the cabinet supports the top, i used the holes in the rear of the cast iron to support the outfeed.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii16/LCKII/Shop%20Tour%202007/ShopRenov2007025.jpg

[Rob Blaustein]

Thanks Rob. If I'm not planning to mount anything, is it even necessary to fill that space with an extension or can I just leave it as it came? I was under the assumption that I had to make something to fit in there, but maybe I'm wrong.
Lance,
I'm assuming you have the shorter rails (as in the pic of my saw). You may not need to add a table. If you wanted to 'rip' something wide using the fence slid as far to the right as possible, some part of the piece would not be supported by anything. That might be OK, but I'm not positive, I've never tried it. I didn't rip anything that wide prior to having that small extension table so I'm not sure, maybe someone else can weigh in as to whether that would be unsafe. I would worry about the leading end of the piece hitting the rear rails if the piece wasn't totally flat where it was unsupported (eg a sagging piece of ply). Where the extension table becomes a necessity is if you have the 7' rails and want to rip say a sheet of plywood to 50 inches--not something I've needed to do.

Interestingly, if you scroll down to the bottom of this page you'll see a section titled "Similar Threads." Looks like I asked a similar question here 3 years ago.

--Rob

[Lance Cottrell]

Great tip Rob. I hadn't seen the similar threads section. I think I will hold off on building it right away. I want to get used to cutting things right first and then if I see a need for it I now have the information to do it thanks to you all. This is a great website with many helpful people.