some cabinet makeing questions

[Greg McCallister]

I did some searching and such on this subject but have not really found what I am looking for.
If making the cabinet case out of hardwood ply:
Do you finish the inside of cabinets?
If so what do you use - also is it used on shelves and bottom?
Do you use the same ply on the shelves and bottom or melemine or ? - how does it wear?
Best durable finish for faces and doors?

[John Gregory]

You can buy prefinished plywood, or finish your own, paint or poly. Same for the shelves
Are these kitchen cabs? utility cabs? or other?

I recently built some cabs in our basement that the face frames and doors were painted white, for the carcass I used Melamine.


I did some searching and such on this subject but have not really found what I am looking for.
If making the cabinet case out of hardwood ply:
Do you finish the inside of cabinets?
If so what do you use - also is it used on shelves and bottom?
Do you use the same ply on the shelves and bottom or melemine or ? - how does it wear?
Best durable finish for faces and doors?

[Greg McCallister]

John,
These will be Kitchen cabinets.
Want long lasting but also solid as I only really want to build these once.

[Les Heinen]

When making my kitchen cabinets out of 3/4" maple ply, I used shellac inside, outside and shelves. For something in the shop I would probably still finish the inside with whatever I used of the outside.

[terry hansen]

I'm in the process of redoing kitchen cabinets myself. Observations: use prefinished ply if possible, it makes box construction really easy. If you can't buy prefinished - Don't use a varnish type finish on insides of cabinets or drawers - it off gasses for a really long time and will make everything smell. I believe most folks use laquer or shellac if they have to apply inside cabinet finishes.
There are some really good threads here on construction and finishing techniques and tips. They've been a great help to me.

[Joe Chritz]

There are as many ways to put a cab together as there are makers. All are correct. I have been refining my system over the last couple projects but currently I do this. I am on the "cut to finish size step right now on a project."

Rough cut all sheet goods. Sand all flats with 120 ROS. Final size all parts. Mark tops of sides, tape bottom 15/16" off, finish all inside surfaces. Remove tape, assemble boxes (this time is glue and zip-r's). Assemble face frames, finish frames, install frames.

I use 1/2 backs (much more handy and well work the $50 bucks) and set them into a dado 1/4" from the back. Tops of uppers are cut 3/4 short so the back slides in. After the boxes are all together I shoot the finish on the bottoms of the uppers. Sides get applied skins of 1/4" plywood or a finished panel. Face frames are attached with pocket screws and glue.

All this requires some pre planning but it isn't to difficult once you get the drawings done. The cabs with a 1/4" skin have to be 1/4" narrower, etc.

Just about everything has been used for sheet goods. I like plywood but melamine is great for boxes. If you set the bottoms in dados you can use 1/2 material with no trouble.

Just ask any specific questions you think of and someone will answer. Usually several someones.

Joe <---- On the way to town for more cabinet building supplies.

[Lee Schierer]

Do yourself anf the future cook a favor and seal teh inside of the cabinets. Most kitche cabinets will have something spilled in them or something that leaks during the course of their life. It wil be much easier to clean up is the cabinet is finished inside. As others have recommended used prefinished plywood or apply a finish.

[Chuck Burns]

Remove tape, assemble boxes (this time is glue and zip-r's).

Joe,
Pardon my ignorance, but what are the "zip-r's" you are referring too? Are they something as obvious as drywall or square drive screws or something different. I guess I just haven't heard the term before.
Thanks

[frank shic]

chuck, zip-r screws are very similar to drywall screws although the tips supposedly don't twist off as easily. they're also marketed as "the ultimates" on woodworker's hardware and assembly screws on CSH hardware. i've experimented with them in the past but prefer using confirmat screws because of their larger thickness.

[Jim Becker]

I do finish the interiors of my cabinets most of the time, either with shellac or with the same water borne finishes I use for the "show" side. (Never use an oil-based product on cabinet interiors...they will off-gas and smell "forever") But I also generally do that interior finishing prior to assembly. The time to mask off glue areas, etc., is what it is, but I'm ready to go after assembly and don't have to deal with the spray bouncing back in my face as it is so prone to do when you shoot into a cabinet. If you are wiping or brushing, this obviously isn't as much of an issue... ;)