Router table adjustment from top...

[Eric DeSilva]

I just installed a Bench Dog ProMAX table as an extension wing to my Unisaw. Been using it in conjunction with a Dewalt 618 (?). Oddly, the base that seems to fit is the plunge base, and I'm having a difficult time doing fine adjustment with that. I saw the Bench Dog Pro Lift, and that seems like the natural course, but its pretty pricey. There is an outside chance I might get one for real cheap, but it is a pretty low probability.

I recently noticed that Bosch has a base designed for router tables for its 1617 and 1618 routers that doesn't look to bad--frankly, paying retail prices, I could pick up a 1617 or 1618 and the base for far less than the Bench Dog. If I went the 1617 route, it would also give me variable speed. Then I read again, and it seems the 1617 also has some sort of height adjustment from the base, even without the router table base.

So, anyone using the 1618 w/their router table base? Is a 1618 underpowered for a router table? Anyone using a 1617 with or without the router table base? Any comparisons to the Bench Dog? Is that in a different class entirely? Any other options I've overlooked?

[Peter Froh]

You might want to try something that I did. It works great and is REALLY cheap to do. Of course you won't get the super fine adjustments you can get with a lift but it also only costs a few dollars to install.

I attached a door window crank to the knob of my plunge router so I can reach under the table and easily crank the height up/down with no problems.

You will need to figure out how to attach the crank to the height adjustment mechanism on your router. I put a nut/bold through the knob on the height adjuster.

Here are some pictures:

79047 79048

[Eric Haycraft]

Here is what I put in my benchdog:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FT3000VCE-Variable-Featuring-Adjustments/dp/B000OYIYNM/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1200077309&sr=8-1

I think that Milwaukee also makes an above table adjustable router. These seem to be just as cheap for the router as a lift alone would cost.


The other option for above table is this:
http://mclswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routraiz.htm
I don't know if you can convert your specific model, but it is worth a peek and cheaper than a new router. In this case, you may run into problems with the length of the shaft making it difficult to change bits above the table - so an extender may be in order...and by that point, you are half-way to the price of a new router with above table adjustments.

[Eric DeSilva]

Thanks guys. Not quite sure I'm twigging on how your lift works Peter... But, I think I do want something with fairly fine adjustment capability, so it may not be an option.

The Freud is an nice router, but is it worth $100 more than the Bosch? The router rizer thing looked like an option, until I realized that my router wasn't on their compatibility list.

Actually, been poking around a bit more, and the Triton 2.25 HP router looks interesting... Reasonable power, above the table adjustment, variable speed, 1/2" and 1/4" collets, DC port... and currently on sale for $189. Wonder if that guy will fit into the BD mounting plate... Suppose I can always give the Dewalt to my dad... He's been wanting a plunge...

[Eric Haycraft]

You can also put your old router up on CL and maybe get a hundred bucks.

I also saw some refurbs on ebay of the Freud for under 200, so if you don't mind a refurb, that may be an option.
http://www.google.com/products?q=FT3000VCE&btnG=Search+Products&show=dd

I like mine. Personally, I would steer you towards a 3HP router. If you do that, you should never run into a situation where it is under powered. 3HP is overkill and often to heavy for a handheld, but seems to be the best choice for a router table.

[Peter Froh]

Thanks guys. Not quite sure I'm twigging on how your lift works Peter... But, I think I do want something with fairly fine adjustment capability, so it may not be an option.



Your plunge router has a knob that allows you to make adjustments in the height of the bit. If you attach some form of rotating handle (like a car window handle) to the knob then you can easily reach under the table and crank the handle like you would a car window (instead of twisting the factory supplied knob) to get to your desired height. The accuracy of the handle is as accurate as the factory knob that came with your router. I have no problems adjusting the height of the router bit, even fine adjustments.

The router is attached to the router plate with the supplied screws. I just checked and your router fits the plate that came with the promax (I had to buy a different plate because the one that came with the Promax did not fit my freud router).


It's no prolift but it's also about $300 cheaper, :D. I would suggest trying it out first and if it does not work for you then invest in a lift and router.

[Eric DeSilva]

For some reason, the pictures now make sense to me--I think I was assuming the other long bar in the picture had something to do with it. D'oh!

I may look at mine and see if that is a possibility. I still like the idea of standing over it, with the gauge, and adjusting that way. The reconditioned Freuds are also a possibility... Or the bigger Triton.

I have now reached... decisional paralysis.

The best would be actually winning a new ProLift for $50 in a local industrial bankruptcy auction. Cross your fingers for me.