PM 66 Set Up Questions

[Daryl Upole]

HI All,

PM 66 5HP/1 phase finally came. I'm working on the set up now. So far, here are my questions:

1. What is an acceptable diagonal table flatness tolerance? Mine is .006" as measured by me and at the factory.

2. On extension wing had a dip in the center from front to back along the table saw edge of .005". Anything to sqawk about?

3. When setting up the wings, Bob had great info on using aluminum foil for shims and, it's hard to believe that one layer of foil could actually have that much effect. However, I've tinkered with it for probably too long. If it's off .002-.004, should the outside edge of the wing be proud or should it drop off?

4. To set up the Accufence the manual stipulates the rail edge to be 2 27/32 from the table top and says "this measurement is critical". That's a pretty exact measurement. The best adjustment I can get is about 1/16" lower than that. Should I ream out the holes in the table saw to get this up that much more or is this good enough?

5. The manual stipulates a 40 amp circuit with 10 gage wire going from the machine. There's several NEC regs that would affect this. But, I've run #8 to a junction box as my best interpretation of my situation. I need about a 14' run from that box to the saw. I'm thinking of using heavy rubber 600volt cord with #10 wire. This may be a technical electrician's question, but there is not a 40 AMP rated receptacle? There seems to be available a 30 amp or a 50 amp. Which should I use?

6. In the past, I've tried to set my saw up level and work from that. My floor is very slightly sloped for drainage. Is it acceptable to shim the machine to level? Is it advisable? Should I not mess with it? It just seems to make it easier in setting up out feed tables, etc.

7. For the blade to miter groove set up, what tolerance to parallel should be used?

Thanks

[Mike Marcade]

HI All,

PM 66 5HP/1 phase finally came. I'm working on the set up now. So far, here are my questions:

1. What is an acceptable diagonal table flatness tolerance? Mine is .006" as measured by me and at the factory.

In my opinion .006" is very good. You won't find much better than that.

2. On extension wing had a dip in the center from front to back along the table saw edge of .005". Anything to sqawk about?

I wouldn't worry about this either, thats pretty darn good.

3. When setting up the wings, Bob had great info on using aluminum foil for shims and, it's hard to believe that one layer of foil could actually have that much effect. However, I've tinkered with it for probably too long. If it's off .002-.004, should the outside edge of the wing be proud or should it drop off?

.002-.004" is very good. I would prefer that it drops off instead of being proud to prevent any chance of scratching sheet goods like plywood.

4. To set up the Accufence the manual stipulates the rail edge to be 2 27/32 from the table top and says "this measurement is critical". That's a pretty exact measurement. The best adjustment I can get is about 1/16" lower than that. Should I ream out the holes in the table saw to get this up that much more or is this good enough?

In my opinion your measurement is probably good enough. I would assemble the fence and see how it works. Just make sure the rails are parallel to the table top.

5. The manual stipulates a 40 amp circuit with 10 gage wire going from the machine. There's several NEC regs that would affect this. But, I've run #8 to a junction box as my best interpretation of my situation. I need about a 14' run from that box to the saw. I'm thinking of using heavy rubber 600volt cord with #10 wire. This may be a technical electrician's question, but there is not a 40 AMP rated receptacle? There seems to be available a 30 amp or a 50 amp. Which should I use?

I would use the 50 amp receptacle, you really can't use the 30 amp if your circuit is rated for 40 amps right?

6. In the past, I've tried to set my saw up level and work from that. My floor is very slightly sloped for drainage. Is it acceptable to shim the machine to level? Is it advisable? Should I not mess with it? It just seems to make it easier in setting up out feed tables, etc.

I would leave this to your personal preference. If you use a mobile base, you can level it with that.

7. For the blade to miter groove set up, what tolerance to parallel should be used?

I usually shoot for parallel within .002" - .003"

Thanks

Just my opinions here, but that has worked for me. Good luck with setting it up.

[Michael Lutz]

I have a 5HP single phase PM 66. It run fine on a 30 Amp circuit. I have #10 gauge wire connecting to a 30 amp receptacle. My 5HP motor is rated for 24 FLA. What does your motor nameplate say?

Mike

[Daryl Upole]

I have a 5HP single phase PM 66. It run fine on a 30 Amp circuit. I have #10 gauge wire connecting to a 30 amp receptacle. My 5HP motor is rated for 24 FLA. What does your motor nameplate say?

Mike

Hi Mike,

My motor plate says 24 amp also. The manual calls for 40 amp breaker & 10 gage wiring. I read other posts here about the startup, in some cases, tripping a 30 amp breaker - so some Sawmillers thought the move to the 40 amp was to circumvent those occasional issues. So, I did end up using a "welders" receptacle and plug. They are rated at 50 amps. I ran a heavy rubber #10 cord (rated for 600volt) from the saw to the receptacle. So, I think I'll be good on this end. My compressor also has a 5 HP motor with 24 amp rating and I've had no problems with that on a 30 amp circuit breaker.

Thanks

[Daryl Upole]

Just my opinions here, but that has worked for me. Good luck with setting it up.

Mike,

Thanks for the input. This is very helpful. I will do as you suggest with the rails.

Daryl

[Daryl Upole]

Mike,

Thanks for the input. This is very helpful. I will do as you suggest with the rails.

Daryl

Mike, I also had a chance to get through to the Tech support at PM. He had to ask around, but came back with the same basic thing you suggested. He said as long as it was a little lower than the spec - that was ok - but not higher.

[john tomljenovic]

6. In the past, I've tried to set my saw up level and work from that. My floor is very slightly sloped for drainage. Is it acceptable to shim the machine to level? Is it advisable? Should I not mess with it? It just seems to make it easier in setting up out feed tables, etc.



My garage/shop is sloped and I like things level as well. my outfeed doubles as an assembly table, so it's nice to have a level top so things don't roll off.

I have a 66 too and you can use shims but the ultimate setup is a machine pad made from concrete floor leveler. make a small form from anything; seal with tape ; pour at least 3/8" to max 1" of leveler. and you will have a perfect. I mean absolute level surface. the leveler is great because it will take care of dips and slopes in all directions. and it is not permanant either, it will break apart with a good chisel and leave minimal evidence of it's existence. I will try to get some pictures of my machines set up this way tomorrow.

The measurements your getting on your saw are good. the only thing else I would check is to see that your saw stays in alignment w/ the miterslots throughout the blades travel. whether that be up/down or 90/tilted. alot of people align the blade with the it raised and thats it. but how often do we cut 90 degrees at full height? most of the time the blade is under 2 inches high.

anyway, good luck with the new machine.

[Sam Layton]

Hi Daryl

I also have the PM 66 with a 5 hp single phase. I use a 30 amp circuit with #10 wire. #10 wire is rated for 30 amps. I have three machines in my shop with 5 hp single phase motors. They all run on 30 amp circuits with #10 wire. #10 wire is used to wire the circuit, and also from the circuit breaker to the machine.

Sam

[Daryl Upole]

Hi Daryl

I also have the PM 66 with a 5 hp single phase. I use a 30 amp circuit with #10 wire. #10 wire is rated for 30 amps. I have three machines in my shop with 5 hp single phase motors. They all run on 30 amp circuits with #10 wire. #10 wire is used to wire the circuit, and also from the circuit breaker to the machine.

Sam

Thanks,

Sounds like I'll be in good shape with me set up.

[Mike Marcade]

Mike, I also had a chance to get through to the Tech support at PM. He had to ask around, but came back with the same basic thing you suggested. He said as long as it was a little lower than the spec - that was ok - but not higher.

As long as the fence isn't rubbing the table and there isn't too much room underneath you should be good. Glad I could be of some help.

[Daryl Upole]

Me Again,

I've got it together & operating. Gives me a couple more questions.

I adjusted the tilt stop to 90 & 45. The initial setting was set to 0 on the dial, but blade was off a couple degrees. When I set the stop for the blade at 90, the dial was -2 or so. I set the dial indicator to 0. But, at 45 the dial shows 47 or so. Are these indicators off by this amount?

I was surprised that the blade guard set up is not all that much greater than my Craftsman contractor's saw. It is the same basic thing with a little more metal instead of plastic. Do most of you keep this or do you change it?

Do you attach your outfeed tables to your saws? I did on my Craftsman and was happy with that - but a lot of that was to add stability to the package.

[Michael Lutz]

I don't bother with the stops. I just use the wixey angle gauge to set the angle to use.

I took one look at the gauge and placed it under the steps in my shop. it has been there ever since.

I don't currently have and outfeed table. No space for one. I use a fliptop stand when necessary.

Mike

[john tomljenovic]

Me Again,

I've got it together & operating. Gives me a couple more questions.

I adjusted the tilt stop to 90 & 45. The initial setting was set to 0 on the dial, but blade was off a couple degrees. When I set the stop for the blade at 90, the dial was -2 or so. I set the dial indicator to 0. But, at 45 the dial shows 47 or so. Are these indicators off by this amount?




stops are never really reliable or more trouble than they are worth , back them off and rely on squares and angle gauges. IMHO

[Daryl Upole]

I don't bother with the stops. I just use the wixey angle gauge to set the angle to use.

I took one look at the gauge and placed it under the steps in my shop. it has been there ever since.

I don't currently have and outfeed table. No space for one. I use a fliptop stand when necessary.

Mike

Thanks, Mike. I googled that Wixley gage & ended up ordering one tonight. Looks like a great little accessory.