Worm drive vs. "regular" circular saw

[Mike Hancock]

What are the pros/cons of a worm drive saw vs a regular circular saw? I have always used my B&D circa 1971 and never used a worm drive. I am getting ready to replace my circular saw with something less than 40 years old.

Thoughts?

I am not a pro, just a dedicated weekend warrior that has no fear tackling just about anything from framing to landscaping to deck building.

Thanks,

Mike

[Bill Wyko]

A worm drive typically has the blade on the left side where it belongs:D I also prefer the balance of a worm drive. In addition to a skillsaw I now have a Festool TS75 and the hardest thing for me with it, is that I can't see the blade cutting the line. Fortunately the saw is accurate enough that I don't need to. I'd go with the worm drive for its versatility IMHO.

[Rob Will]

I have a Milwaukee worm drive and various "regular" saws. It seems that the left blade worm drive comes in handy on occasion but we do 99% of our work with the more compact regular saws.

One point to remember is that worm drive saws generally tilt forward to adjust depth. When you are set shallow for cutting sheet goods, the forward tilt makes your reach more difficult.

Before you buy any saw look at a rear tilt conventional saw and think of yourself reaching across a sheet of plywood.

Here's one example:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=3027


Good luck with your decision
Rob

[Prashun Patel]

Worm drives are heavier and more powerful than regular circular saws.

[Greg Stanford]

I sometimes use a homemade guide for cutting sheet goods, I like a wormdrive saw for this as the motor does not hang over the guide affecting the depth of cut.

g

[Daryl Upole]

Hi -

I have one of each. As stated, the worm drive is larger & more powerful. That, in itself, kind of gives you the pros & cons.

When I can use either, I prefer the smaller, lighter "regular" saw. But, when cutting panels along a strait edge in the shop, the heavy, powerful stability of the worm drive is welcome.

If choosing one, I'd get the smallest & lightest I could that would do 90% of what I use it for. Easier to transport, etc. I've seen & used $30 & $40 saws that are great. By comparison, my worm drive was almost $200.

[Anthony Fields]

I like the worm drive for longer board cuts. It tends to cut straighter, and like the above poster said, the blade is on the left side where it belongs! Easier to see when cutting for me. HD 77 comes to mind. Skill saw.

[Fred Haydon]

I went throught this process myself a few years back and I ended up with a WD saw. I was doing a lot of home renovating at the time and wanted the extra power. But the way it lets me split panels quickly and accurately is an unexpected bonus.

As the gentlemen before me said, it is heavier and produces more torque than a sidewinder. As with everything, there are trade offs to be had.

Good luck with your decision!

Fred

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have a Skill Worm ( the heavier one they mis-named with that silly euphemism "professional" that everyone it seems like to mis-use).

I find that it is a very heavy tool. Take weight into consideration. It is however, absolutely unstoppable.

I had a millers falls 10" hand held circular saw before that and I really liked the thing.

I have considered getting another circular saw that is lighter than the Skillsaw for those jobs where I don't need all that torque, power, and weight of the Sklillsaw.

[Rob Will]

Has anyone here tried a "rear-tilt" saw - something like the one in my previous post?
Just wondering because I really like mine..... It has a good feel.

Rob

[Chris Padilla]

Many years back when I was shopping for a circular saw, my father said to spend the dough on worm-drive so I picked up a Skil Magnesium one (slightly lighter than the arm-busting one they sell) because he said they will LAST LONGER than a conventional circular saw. I've had mine for 10 years now and it gets good use but check back with me in another 10-20 years to see if what my father claims is true.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

30 years ago a neighbor hired me to work part-time for him. He was a building contractor. He took me to a local lumberyard and outfitted me with everything a carpenter (wanna-be in my case) would need...including a worm-drive Skill saw. Be cause of the added weight and the way it's distributed and the shape of the worm drive saws, they take a little ...not a lot....of practice to get comfortable using. But once you have used one, you will love them.

I replaced my worn out regular Skill saw a few years ago. I'm not the same strong man now that I used to be. I bought a regular left-bladed PC circular saw.....just because of it's lighter weight. Left-bladed as I'm right handed and enjoy being able to see the blade and the cut-line.

[Frank Caponi]

So many people always think that a worm drive saw is simply a left side blade saw - Yes it is and it isn't - "Worm Drive" refers to the gear that runs the saw - It is a worm drive gear - If you ever open one up you will see how it works - All other circular saws are direct drive - The blade shaft is running right out of the motor - A Worm drive saw has the motor mounted to the side and rear - The motor shaft turns a gear which transmits power to the blade - This setup make it almost impossible to stop the blade due to minor binding - It creates a transfer of power to the blade that can handle much harder use then a conventional direct drive saw - I worked as a carpenter for 20 years before I became a Contractor then a Custom Door and Sash Builder - I have seen a lot of direct drive saws end up in the dumpster while that heavy worm drive just kept humming along - The other reason the blade is on the left side is it is how we layout in the field - We pull our tapes from the left to the right and can cut to the line in a more effective manner - If you are going to own just one circular saw for the purpose of framing and decking I would strongly recommend the Worm Drive - Skil make the most popular - Bosch makes a good one too - Just don't buy the one with the cord that can be disconnected at the saw - If you are working overhead cutting rafter tails while doing the "Batman" thing off a ladder and your cord falls off the back of your saw you will know what being really ticked off is when you make that trip down and up the ladder for the 4th or 5th time - lol - Hoped this helped

[Greg Cole]

Another owner of the venerable Skil #77. Love it & honestly I don't complain about the weight (although cutting the cement board siding when residing my house... it was heavy by the end of a LONG day, like 12 hours). I find the wieght a good thing as these are pretty good for a little torque twist when ya fire it up. I use mine for the usual jobs of decking, framing, demo (they cut through nails effortlessly :eek:) etc etc.... another reason I opted for the non-magnesium version is durability. I know you should tether tools on ladders etc, but when the tools does find mother earth from an elevation, the magnesium housed ones are much more brittle. Some tools just are destined for a hard knocked life I guess...
For easier butting of sheet goods I use my V28 cordless Milwaukee, it's much more of a real circ caw than many of the little panel cutters with 4 1/2" blades as the MKE has a 6 1/4" blade and as much power as a corded direct drive. It's a feather compared to the #77 and has the blade in the "right" spot on the left side (err correct side for a righty anyway). Another thing I really like about the cordless Milwaukee is the brake on the motor. I can't get over the "umph" the 28V has (I've ripped sopping wet 2X10 pressure treated with it and it didn't flinch ;)).

Greg

[Mike Hancock]

Sounds like it is time for a "wormy". ;)
I think I will get the Skil MAG77 and a little later pick up a Milwaukee cordless 28V for the quick jobs.

I may be 40+ now but I still remember my dad saying spend your money on the right saw, it does all the work.

Thanks folks

Mike

[Greg Cole]

Mike,
The other thing you'll find if you haven't used any L-Ion tools is the longevity of a charge (also no memory to the battery). I still am amazed at how many cuts I can make in a charge. The LED for battery life is a novel idea that more manufacturers outta pick up on..... and the saw works 100% until the battery is dead, no falling off.
The individual pieces are expensive if bought solo, so I opted for the 4 piece kit... the saw-z-all is on par with the tailed version & the drill is as good as a 1/2" corded Milwaukee hole-shooter which is a fairly powerful drill. Kit was @ $700 IIRC. FWIW first use of the sawall was cutting off gutters on the house & within 30 seconds of the saw going up on the roof my helper (aka my Dad) set the saw-z-all free from @ 25 feet. It stuck in the ground blade first like lawn dart & never missed a beat but only missed the concrete driveway by @ 4".....:D

Greg

[Tim Marks]

I have a bosch 1677 worm drive circular saw, built like a tank and just as heavy. If you need to do framing or build a porch, and never want to slow down when you hit wet 2x4 and 4x4s, it is the way to go.

If you want a saw to break down sheet goods, it is WAY overkill. You don't need a heavy saw like this in 1/4 or 1/2 plywood; a conventional circular saw will take it in stride without bogging down. And you can even get left sided blade direct-drive circular saw.

To give my arm a rest, I bought a Porter Cable 325MAG saw. It has an electric brake which stops the blade in seconds after you let go of the trigger, and feels like half the weight of my bosch. You can get the left blade version as the 423MAG saw (without the brake?). I bought it based upon strong recommendations here (and even Dino likes it over on the EZ forum).

If you HAVE to have a worm drive saw for breaking down sheet goods, then look at the Porter Cable 314. It is a 4.5" worm drive, left blade saw that weighs 8# (same as my 325MAG). Light weight, extremely compact, and the torque of a worm drive.

[Eric DeSilva]

I thought about a WD saw recently, but ended up buying a TS55 instead. Strikes me that the WD target is the construction trades, esp. roofers, deckers and timber framers. That much torque comes at a serious price in weight, and my intended purpose was breaking down sheet goods.

That said, if you are using a lot of solid hardwoods, a WD may come in handy there. I seem to recall noting to myself, in one David Mark's Woodworks episodes, that he used a WD to rough cut thick hardwoods before surfacing.

If you are interested in WD saws, I recall Fine Homebuilding did a review of a bunch of WD saws within the last couple months.

[Jason White]

I've had a couple of "sidewinders" and hated them both (a cheapo Skil and a newer Porter Cable).

I now have a Bosch 1677M worm-drive. It's heavy, but you use the weight to your advantage when doing framing work. If you're cutting sheet goods, the weight is a non-issue. I use the Bosch for framing and general carpentry work and my Festool TS55 for the "fine" woodworking.

And, no, I'm not a pro. Same boat as you. Spend the money and get a great circ saw. You won't regret it.

JW


What are the pros/cons of a worm drive saw vs a regular circular saw? I have always used my B&D circa 1971 and never used a worm drive. I am getting ready to replace my circular saw with something less than 40 years old.

Thoughts?

I am not a pro, just a dedicated weekend warrior that has no fear tackling just about anything from framing to landscaping to deck building.

Thanks,

Mike

[Rob Will]

So many people always think that a worm drive saw is simply a left side blade saw - Yes it is and it isn't - "Worm Drive" refers to the gear that runs the saw - It is a worm drive gear - If you ever open one up you will see how it works - All other circular saws are direct drive - The blade shaft is running right out of the motor - A Worm drive saw has the motor mounted to the side and rear - The motor shaft turns a gear which transmits power to the blade

Actually, ALL portable saws use a gear reduction. On a conventional saw the motor axis is parallel to the blade shaft. Power is transmitted through a set of helical cut spur gears. On a worm drive saw the motor shaft is rotated 90 degrees in relation to the blade shaft. Power is transmitted through a worm and gear set. The motors are pretty much the same thing but the worm drive version probably has more tooth contact area in the gear set and a lower gear ratio resulting in slightly lower speed / higher torque at the blade arbor.

Rob

[Chuck Lenz]

Has anyone here tried a "rear-tilt" saw - something like the one in my previous post?
Just wondering because I really like mine..... It has a good feel.

Rob
I purchased a Milwaukee 6391 Tilt-Lok last summer, haven't used it yet. It's not a rear pivot, but the handle pivots. http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_684457_192208_192137#

[Rob Will]

I purchased a Milwaukee 6391 Tilt-Lok last summer, haven't used it yet. It's not a rear pivot, but the handle pivots. http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_684457_192208_192137#

That's pretty slick. I had not seen one of those.
Rob

[Chuck Burns]

Many years back when I was shopping for a circular saw, my father said to spend the dough on worm-drive so I picked up a Skil Magnesium one (slightly lighter than the arm-busting one they sell) because he said they will LAST LONGER than a conventional circular saw. I've had mine for 10 years now and it gets good use but check back with me in another 10-20 years to see if what my father claims is true.

Your Dad was right. My Skill 77 is 35 years old. I can't even undterstand how anybody uses a sidewinder with the blade on the right side. For light use I have a Milwaukee V28 cordless sidewinder with the blade on the left - where it is supposed to be! And the main reason I like that is that it is so quiet and light.

[Chuck Burns]

For easier butting of sheet goods I use my V28 cordless Milwaukee, it's much more of a real circ caw than many of the little panel cutters with 4 1/2" blades as the MKE has a 6 1/4" blade and as much power as a corded direct drive. It's a feather compared to the #77 and has the blade in the "right" spot on the left side (err correct side for a righty anyway). Another thing I really like about the cordless Milwaukee is the brake on the motor. I can't get over the "umph" the 28V has (I've ripped sopping wet 2X10 pressure treated with it and it didn't flinch ;)).

Greg

Greg, I,ve got a V28 in addition to my 77 and love them both. For a cordless tool the V28 is amazing. It won't replace a 77 but it has it's own uses.

[Chuck Burns]

So many people always think that a worm drive saw is simply a left side blade saw - Yes it is and it isn't - "Worm Drive" refers to the gear that runs the saw - It is a worm drive gear - If you ever open one up you will see how it works - All other circular saws are direct drive - The blade shaft is running right out of the motor - A Worm drive saw has the motor mounted to the side and rear - The motor shaft turns a gear which transmits power to the blade - This setup make it almost impossible to stop the blade due to minor binding - It creates a transfer of power to the blade that can handle much harder use then a conventional direct drive saw - I worked as a carpenter for 20 years before I became a Contractor then a Custom Door and Sash Builder - I have seen a lot of direct drive saws end up in the dumpster while that heavy worm drive just kept humming along - The other reason the blade is on the left side is it is how we layout in the field - We pull our tapes from the left to the right and can cut to the line in a more effective manner - If you are going to own just one circular saw for the purpose of framing and decking I would strongly recommend the Worm Drive - Skil make the most popular - Bosch makes a good one too - Just don't buy the one with the cord that can be disconnected at the saw - If you are working overhead cutting rafter tails while doing the "Batman" thing off a ladder and your cord falls off the back of your saw you will know what being really ticked off is when you make that trip down and up the ladder for the 4th or 5th time - lol - Hoped this helped

Frank,
I find a lot of people don't know how to use a worm drive saw; they want to push it like a sidewinder rather than letting the weight of the saw do the work as often as possible.

[Steven DeMars]

I have a worm drive Skill 77 . . . Have had it for 20 years, it still works like a champ . . . Now days they are probably made in China out of old beer cans with recycled treadmill motors . . .

Aside from that, the weight and power is really nice.... If you don't need the weight and power go for a small blade panel saw . . .

Steve:)

[Bob Feeser]

I have the Bosch 1677M-100 7 1/4" Worm Drive. Sorry about keep mentioning reviews at Amazon, but I was a tool buying fanatic, yeah had a bad case of tool buying fever for a few years, but I used to research the heck out of every tool before buying it. So I became, due to no fault of my own, one of the top 500 reviewers at Amazon. Actually I hit number 150 out of over 60 million Amazonians, but have not been contributing very much for a while. So here goes, if you want to read my review on the Bosch 1677 Worm drive, Amazon chose it as there most helpful review, and featured it on this page (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1677M-100-Limited-Drive-Construction/dp/B00005RHPB/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1199940192&sr=8-1). I really love the saw. It's artwork.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/319WNJSH8pL._SS500_.jpg

The real beauty of it is how unbelievably quiet it is for a circular saw, and it cuts a straight line by itself, at least it seems to, instead of the typical circular saw experience, of trying to follow the line, it veers off a little bit, so you force steer it back on track, or back it up a little then proceed, leaving an uneven also, then the blade wants to bind in the cut, and jump out of the track and kick back at you. I do not experience that with the Bosch worm drive. Like I said, aim it right to start, and it almost cuts along the line for you.

The realizable difference between a standard circular saw and a worm drive are several. A worm drive has a transmission, which gears it down. It is like trying to climb that hill in your car in first gear instead of fourth. So it is slower but has a lot more torque. You can get through some wicked stock without any complaints from the saw. The problem is that the transmission weighs more. So it is heavier to lug around.

Interestingly, SkilSaw was bought by Bosch, so they make both. The SkilSaw has a 13 amp motor, the Bosch a 15. The
Bosch which has more magnesium in it, weighs a couple of pounds lighter than the Skil as well. The SkilSaw has been a construction standard for a long time. The Bosch costs only 20 or 30 dollars more than the Skil, at least the last time I looked it did, and you get a more powerful motor, and lighter weight. They are both great saws.
The other thing about the Bosch worm drive is its incredible accuracy. The shoe plate is perfectly paralell to the blade, so you can straight edge off of one side of the shoe plate, and know you are getting a blade that is cutting perfectly paralell to your straight edge. Makes it possible to use a higher tooth blade, and get crazy smooth cuts.
The blade angle was set up nicely from Bosch and is fully adjustable, so yes it cuts a perfect 90 as well. I would not hesitate to use this to do finish grade woodwork, and sometimes do.

As far as handling goes, the rear handle worm drive is great to get behind, and plow through your cut. If you are up on a ladder, or in a position that you have to make a left to right cut across the front of you, the rear handle position is workable but not ideal. So Milwaukee came out with a circular saw with an adjustable handle. So it becomes a top handle, as well as a rear handle, and a few positions in between I think. (I don't own one)

Finallyl, I ran into a framer in Home Depot one day, and was asking him for some input on what he liked to use on the job site, and he mentioned that the Porter Cable 314 4.5amp 4 1/2" trim saw is what he uses for everything. That is also a worm drive. Some of the reviews at Amazon reveal that the sole plate is not properly aligned with the blade, and that it did not hold up cutting 2" oak, but the carpentar in Home Depot claimed it went through everything. (He is most likely cutting 2/12's max 1 1/2" material of soft pine. He loved it because it was so lightweight. (It only weighs 7 pounds, as compared to 15 for the Bosch) yet had the added torque of a worm drive, although it only started out at 4.5 amps. I see Norm Abrams using one on the New Yankee Workshop all of the time. He does it for his precision cuts in the shop as a light duty saw. If you can work out the bugs of sole plate misalignment, depending on your needs, that may be a saw to have.
Maybe I am giving you way more information that you are looking for, but when I am buying something, the more I know, the better off I am.

[Matt Schell]

another vote for the worm drive. definitely heavier, torgier and unfortunately more expensive. even the mag77 is no lightweight, but for day to day framing abuse the worm is the way to go.

while were on the subject if i remember correctly i read an article years ago (fine hb i think) that said west coast framers bought more worm drives and east coast framers buy more sidewinders. according to the article they claimed east coasters used sawhorses more often while west coasters cut on the ground (one end propped on a foot)

now i am on the east coast and the really hardcore framers that i know use a wormdrive but anyway.

one last note, having a little (4.5") saw can be really convenient but not as your only saw.

[Chuck Burns]

while were on the subject if i remember correctly i read an article years ago (fine hb i think) that said west coast framers bought more worm drives and east coast framers buy more sidewinders. according to the article they claimed east coasters used sawhorses more often while west coasters cut on the ground (one end propped on a foot)

now i am on the east coast and the really hardcore framers that i know use a wormdrive but anyway.

Matt,
You mentioned "propped up on one foot" and are correct. I framed houses for a few years (West Coast) and that was how most lumber was cut. If guys reading these posts have never hung around a stick-bilt construction site and watched a good framing crew in action they should. It would be an education. The weight of the saw does the cutting, you only hold the saw with one hand on the rear handle (the left hand is supporting the lumber) and from there you guide the cut as the saw "falls" thu the lumber. It's fast, easy and accurate. I haven't framed for thirty years but that is still how I cut lumber.

There are very few tools out there that will take abuse like a Skill 77 and keep on working. About the only other thing I can think of is the various Milwaukee 1/2 drills. I've got a couple of them that have been pushed awfully hard and are still going strong after 35 years.

[Chris Friesen]

I can't even undterstand how anybody uses a sidewinder with the blade on the right side.


99% of my cuts are along a straightedge so I don't need to see the blade. With the blade on the right side of the saw, and the saw on my right side, the sawdust is ejected away from me.

Also, the bulk of the saw foot (and thus the weight of the saw) is on the same piece of material as the straightedge, so I don't need to worry as much about the waste piece at the end of the cut.

[Ed Falis]

I sorely hate to resuscitate such an old thread, but ...

My wife has a 30 yo Skil 77 worm drive that is her favorite circular saw. We're pulling our hair out trying to figure out what kind of lubricating oil goes into it. She says it's much heavier viscosity than a typical machine oil. The internuts has turned out to be useless on this one. Anyone know?

Thanks,

- Ed

[Paul McGaha]

I prefer worm drive saws. As mentioned earlier I like to see the blade and the cut line. Also the power and long life of the tool.

Skil was a well known maker of these saws for decades but I think Bosch owns them now. I dont know that Skil tools are available anymore?

Good luck with your choice.

PHM

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Your local Skil dealer does not carry it? It is a "special" type of lube. When I bought mine he said to grab the Makita oil, it's the same thing. That may not help you, since I know they are NOT available from your local BORG or *mart stores. Sears may be a reach if they carry it. If you buy it as a part from them it's probably a bit more than your dealer. But they are an option.

Why didn't you just start a new thread? Now you're going to get 25 more different responses. :)

[Derek Noel]

I sorely hate to resuscitate such an old thread, but ...

My wife has a 30 yo Skil 77 worm drive that is her favorite circular saw. We're pulling our hair out trying to figure out what kind of lubricating oil goes into it. She says it's much heavier viscosity than a typical machine oil. The internuts has turned out to be useless on this one. Anyone know?

Thanks,

- Ed

Google search of "skil gear oil" found several sources for Skil brand Wormdrive Gear Oil Model # 80111.
I would just use a gear oil from any local auto-parts store. Any warty on saw was expired about 29 years ago so why pay for brand name. :)

[Mark Woodmark]

Worm drive will typically be heavier than the sidewinder. Some sidewinders have the blade on the left. Porter Cables Saw Boss comes to mind. Unless you need the torque and continuous duty of a worm drive, I would get a "regular" circular saw with a left side blade

[John McClanahan]

I have a worm drive DeWalt that I picked up at an auction. It has the motor mounted in a more vertical position. This makes the saw a bit shorter than other brands, and feels less heavy when using one handed.

John

[Ramsey Ramco]

Porter cable makes a lightweight compact saw that has the blade on the left side, its not the new cheap porter cable the saw runs somewhere around the $200 range but its very powerful and cuts a 2x4 at a 45 degree angle no problem.

[Jason White]

I've used both and prefer a wormy. The weight works to your advantage, especially during long rip cuts.

Borrow or rent one to see if you like it before you buy.

Jason



What are the pros/cons of a worm drive saw vs a regular circular saw? I have always used my B&D circa 1971 and never used a worm drive. I am getting ready to replace my circular saw with something less than 40 years old.

Thoughts?

I am not a pro, just a dedicated weekend warrior that has no fear tackling just about anything from framing to landscaping to deck building.

Thanks,

Mike

[Gene Howe]

I bought a Skil 77, new, in the box, off the back of a pick up truck, in the early 80's. Paid $35.00. :o:o Needed asbestos gloves to handle it!
Anyhow, it has done plenty of framing in the past and I really like it's heft and accuracy. Gravity is it's friend.
Now, at my advanced age, breaking down sheet goods is it's only function. With a good Tenryu blade, it's a joy to use.
Skil still makes the gear oil. Bought some 5-6 months ago.

[Ed Falis]

Thanks for the tips on the gear oil.

- Ed

[David Helm]

I've used a worm drive for forty years. For a right handed person, having the blade on the left side is perfect. I also own a couple of Porter-Cable saw boss circular saws. They have the best of both worlds. Blade is on the left and light weight. Since I no longer build large things like houses, I'm more apt to pick up the lighter saw for casual use. Used it last summer to build a deck for a friend and it worked just beautifully. In terms of tracking, the most important aspect is the skill of the user.

[Larry Marley]

I have an old skill worm drive that my father in law gave me. It is heavy, so I would not want to use it overhead, but the power is impressive, if not intimidating. My neighbor was using a consumer grade skill saw to cut paver's for his driveway. When his on/off switch failed, I loaned him the worm drive. Even after I repaired his saw, it was a bear to get him to return it! He just keep saying, " it is so powerful! I can cut anything. You know it is here, so you can use it if you really need to."
It can make a clean cut, but at my house, it is more likely to be on the same project as my Tiger Saw. I used it to remove a deck. Even with an old blade, little things like nails, and binding the blade in the kerf only changed the sound, not the cutting. A good Tim Allen tool.

[David Winer]

I've had my Skil 77 for a long time. My impressions:

1. Yes, it's heavy.
2. Heavy is often good: a. when you can let the saw "fall" through the cut of a framing board. b. when cutting straight free-hand--because of all the mass it just seems to want to go straight. Much nicer than my old "regular" Skilsaw.
3. Viewing the blade while cutting is such a nice feature. Last week I had to use a "regular" circular saw and found it frustrating to see where I was going.
4. I appreciate heavy-duty macho tools and this one qualifies well.

[Steve Griffin]

Other than my portable power planer and super heavy 1/2" drill, there is no tool less important in my shop than a circular saw.

It could get stolen and I wouldn't notice it for months.

Now, if you are building a house, that's a different story. I'm a fan of my light weight makita "regular saw". It's light and durable. It's pushing 20 years old, built many a house and is as good as new.

-Steve

[Chip Lindley]

Worm-drives are great saws....IF....you are have great upper-body strength! I doubt you could wear one out in your lifetime! But, hefting it, one-handed is just out of the question for me, as in cutting 2x's for framing. For breaking down sheetgoods a WD would be great.

But, a professional grade, sidewinder does everything I need to do with a circular saw. Construction lumber is just not that hard to cut! Besides, I am left-handed, and WD's blade is out of sight for me.

[kaiwen he]

Many years back when I was shopping for a circular saw, my father said to spend the dough on worm-drive so I picked up a Skil Magnesium one (slightly lighter than the arm-busting one they sell) because he said they will LAST LONGER than a conventional circular saw. I've had mine for 10 years now and it gets good use but check back with me in another 10-20 years to see if what my father claims is true.

Ok then , so it was 2008 when you posted it .

[Frederick Skelly]

Ok then , so it was 2008 when you posted it .

So, I guess you're asking how that tool has held up, since it's been 10 years since he posted?

[Ole Anderson]

I ran across a Wranglerstar YouTube video today where he compared a Skil Mag22 worm drive corded saw to a Dewalt Flexvolt saw. He ripped, two directions, a 2" doug fir board, probably 10 feet long. The Dewalt beat the Mag22 hands down. Yes, he is sponsored by Dewalt, but coming from a construction background, I give some credence to his opinion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5_x_h4EG-w and a sponsored Dewalt video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnFYvIwkf_A

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I ran across a Wranglerstar YouTube video today where he compared a Skil Mag22 worm drive corded saw to a Dewalt Flexvolt saw. He ripped, two directions, a 2" doug fir board, probably 10 feet long. The Dewalt beat the Mag22 hands down. Yes, he is sponsored by Dewalt, but coming from a construction background, I give some credence to his opinion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5_x_h4EG-w and a sponsored Dewalt video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnFYvIwkf_A

They are interesting saws, but I don't buy the youtube comparison. The guy is obviously inexperienced at driving a saw. Heck, the newest guy on my crew can cut straighter than that in a day or two of practice. Twisting a saw is what eats power, he's not consistently straight, and that throws the data out in my opinion. Also, is he even pushing them the same? Very similar blades??? Because he says so? Right... Oh, and never mind that in the real world, no one cares how fast you can push a rip with a worm saw, it's about whether you do good work, and this guy obviously can't. Lastly, notice the suspicious dewalt tape measure being prominently displayed, when there is no need for any tape measure in the video, I'm not sure I buy the unsponsored bit he says at the first.

[Ole Anderson]

They are interesting saws, but I don't buy the youtube comparison. The guy is obviously inexperienced at driving a saw. Heck, the newest guy on my crew can cut straighter than that in a day or two of practice. Twisting a saw is what eats power, he's not consistently straight, and that throws the data out in my opinion. Also, is he even pushing them the same? Very similar blades??? Because he says so? Right... Oh, and never mind that in the real world, no one cares how fast you can push a rip with a worm saw, it's about whether you do good work, and this guy obviously can't. Lastly, notice the suspicious dewalt tape measure being prominently displayed, when there is no need for any tape measure in the video, I'm not sure I buy the unsponsored bit he says at the first. When Dewalt came out with their first 14.4 volt drill, I bet the naysayers were throwing out the same negative comments. How often do you see a corded drill anymore? Cords are a PITA. Just a manner of time. Not selling Dewalt, I just thought the video was interesting. I'm not running out and buying any 60 volt equipment any time soon.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

When Dewalt came out with their first 14.4 volt drill, I bet the naysayers were throwing out the same negative comments. How often do you see a corded drill anymore? Cords are a PITA. Just a manner of time. Not selling Dewalt, I just thought the video was interesting. I'm not running out and buying any 60 volt equipment any time soon.

I'm not against a cordless saw, it'd be handy at times. Have you seen the stupid prices on the Flexvolt system stuff though? At my local store none of it appears to be selling. I can buy two super reliable worms for the cost of a bare Flexvolt saw. Heck, it's $1000 to get a few batteries and a saw here. Pretty useless tool if I have to park it between charges, so have to have batteries. That's my only beef with it, it's just priced unrealistically. Well, I guess I also remember that 18 volt trim saw that was just terrible. I'm just a little suspicious of hyped tools.

[Larry Edgerton]

The obvious answer is that you need both. Duh.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Lol, of course Larry is right!

[Tom M King]

For circular saws, my favorites are the Porter Cable 347 and 743. I forget which is which, but one is the mirror image left side blade version of the other right bladed one. I also have a right bladed version, with a brake, for cutting rafter tails in place, but I forget the model number of that one. They're lightweight, magnesium 15 amp sidewinders. Typically, they go now for more than they cost when they were new, but I just picked one up off CL, still like new in the case, for 50 bucks, to have just for a backup.

Worm drives are good for framing when you want to hold the board across your instep, so you don't have to bend over so far.

[Larry Edgerton]

For circular saws, my favorites are the Porter Cable 347 and 743. I forget which is which, but one is the mirror image left side blade version of the other right bladed one. I also have a right bladed version, with a brake, for cutting rafter tails in place, but I forget the model number of that one. They're lightweight, magnesium 15 amp sidewinders. Typically, they go now for more than they cost when they were new, but I just picked one up off CL, still like new in the case, for 50 bucks, to have just for a backup.

Worm drives are good for framing when you want to hold the board across your instep, so you don't have to bend over so far.

I have seven of the old vertical drop foot Porter Cables, so I agree. You have to have at least one with the optional wide table and the Porter Cable saw square. Like a hand held chop saw. And being into timber you have to have a 15 1/4" Makita around...........

[Tom M King]

I have one of every model of those vertical drop PC's starting with one all aluminum one before they started making double insulated ones. They all still run, but I was always in too big of a hurry to change bearings, when they start to rattle, and just bought the next model. The 347/743 is a pivot foot, but I still like them best.

After probably 35 years, I finally found a blade I can highly recommend to anyone who has one of those Makita 16-5/16" saws. My model of that is also before double insulation, but the Ohlson blade turns it into a pretty cutting thing. I cut the compound angle cuts on the bottoms of these 4x6 legs with it.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I have one of every model of those vertical drop PC's starting with one all aluminum one before they started making double insulated ones. They all still run, but I was always in too big of a hurry to change bearings, when they start to rattle, and just bought the next model. The 347/743 is a pivot foot, but I still like them best.

After probably 35 years, I finally found a blade I can highly recommend to anyone who has one of those Makita 16-5/16" saws. My model of that is also before double insulation, but the Ohlson blade turns it into a pretty cutting thing. I cut the compound angle cuts on the bottoms of these 4x6 legs with it.

That looks like a big job Tom.

[Chris Padilla]

Still going strong and I've never even changed the oil on it!!! Swear to god!! Honestly, though, I don't use it a ton but has served me well thus far. Check back in 2028 to see how it and I am doing! :)

[lowell holmes]

This string was eight years old. Why is it back up? Just curious. . . . ………….

[Chris Padilla]

Lowell,

I mentioned in the thread to check back in 5-10 years to see how my worm-drive saw is doing and by golly, someone called me on it! The thread is actually 10 years old!

[Ole Anderson]

I am keeping an eye on my son’s new house build. Stopped by today and I noticed the 4 man framing crew had two DeWalt 60 flex-volt sidewinders. No extension cords, but a generator running (to charge batteries?). Plenty of hoses for the nailers though. Being done with prefabbed wall panels. Two SkyTracks on site for his 2000 sf ranch. I will be helping him finish out the main level after drywall and then finish the walk out basement after he moves in.

[phil harold]

While worm drives have more torque and power,
They are more prone to cutting the operator
Just pick one up and pull the trigger while it is hanging
It just wants to turn the blade into your leg or groin

never jamb the guard back

[lowell holmes]

Any self respecting woodworker will have one of each. :)

[Warren Lake]

have three worm drives black and decker it weighs more than I do. My original; skill saw 35 years weighs about as much as I do and the lighweight Mag one maybe three years old its liight. As I got older I could not hold the medium one extended out in front of me with one hand doing roof repair work. Sometimes I was sitting to give my back a break, the lightweight one was easy to use.

They all twist when you pull the trigger the heaviest has the most torque, medium weight twists in the middle and the lightweight one the least. Years down the road the mag one will die first, the other two wont. this is the same with my Rockwell tools that became porter cable,. exact copy but lighter so its not the same.

[Ole Anderson]

So I talked to the framing company owner yesterday, he has 50 carpenters working for him. He spent over $10,000 on DeWalt 60 volt tools, including a ton of extra batteries. Batteries last half a day and he charges them at home in the evening. He has one old timer that insists on dragging a cord around. Everyone else likes the new tools. Personally, he doesn't like using worm drive saws, "too heavy". He said the 60 volt sidewinders will cut a stack of plywood faster than a corded saw.