Chop saw station sizing

[Bill Karow]

I'm trying to decide how big to build a station for my Hitachi C10FS 10" slider. I've seen the combo lumber rack/miter station, but I can't find a spot for it right now. For those who have built chop saw stations, how long are your extensions per side? Any lessons learned you'd care to share?

I think I've got about an 8 foot opening, but I'd love to also slide my vintage Craftsman RAS in there on one side.

If I had 15 feet, I'd look at Nahm's miter saw storage behemoth, but I don't have that kind of space.

Thanks-
Bill

[John Miliunas]

I'm trying to decide how big to build a station for my Hitachi C10FS 10" slider. I've seen the combo lumber rack/miter station, but I can't find a spot for it right now. For those who have built chop saw stations, how long are your extensions per side? Any lessons learned you'd care to share?

I think I've got about an 8 foot opening, but I'd love to also slide my vintage Craftsman RAS in there on one side.

If I had 15 feet, I'd look at Nahm's miter saw storage behemoth, but I don't have that kind of space.

Thanks-
Bill

Bill, if you check out this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?threadid=7202
(about the 4th or 5th post), it may give you an idea of what I did, though mine isn't a slider and I'm taking a bit more than 8'. If you're right-handed, I'd stick with the longer portion to the left of the blade. Construction is pretty straightforward and I've been happy with the unit in use. :cool:

[Steve Beadle]

In my 2-car garage shop I face the challenge of making everything fit in a limited space. I have mounted my miter saw (12" Makita, non-slider) on a platform between my router table and a shop-built planer stand, thereby using the top surfaces of the router table and the planer stand as outboard support surfaces for the miter saw. I can slide the miter saw platform forward and backward as well, allowing me to get it either out of the way almost entirely, or bring it forward enough to line up with the fence on the router table. The height of the router table is fixed, but the miter saw platform is height-adjustable, and so is the top surface of the planer stand. The only thing I don't like about this set-up is that my planer is rather low-mounted on a shelf underneath the adjustable top--but that's the sacrifice I make in order to have this compact arrangement. Oh, and another thing: Having all three tools next to one another makes it easier for my dust collection hook-ups, too!

Steve

[Terry Hatfield]

Bill,

I have 4' on the left and 2' on the right. Has worked just fine for me. I have open areas on both ends if I need to let a board hang over a bit.

I sounds to me like with 8' that you could put the RAS pretty close the the SCMS and use the same tables for both.

I have a article on the tables I built for mine on my site if you would like to check it out.

Terry

<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/ms_table2.jpg">

[Jim Becker]

Well...I went the miter station/lumber storage route, but do agree that you need the space for it. Mine takes up 8' of length and is 30" or so deep. But it's also flexible since the fences and saw can be removed quickly, letting the surface double for other activities if necessary. There is an article and construction pictorial on my site for this particular project.

[Chris Padilla]

Jim,

I just went through your construction of your miter box station. Very nice work!

I wonder if you can enlighten me as to why one might choose a double-tenon over a single-tenon. The area of glue-up might've increased but does it substantially so? What else am I missing here?

Thanks

[Dean Baumgartner]

I went with about 5' left and 3' right. I have a slider so I need more room behind the saw for the slide mechanism. The lower storage works well for other tools. You'll also probably want some type of dust collection/trap behind the blade as they throw a lot of dust to the back.
Also very handy to have some type of stop at least on the left for repetetive cuts.

[Dean Baumgartner]

I went with about 5' left and 3' right. I have a slider so I need more room behind the saw for the slide mechanism. The lower storage works well for other tools. You'll also probably want some type of dust collection/trap behind the blade as they throw a lot of dust to the back.
Also very handy to have some type of stop at least on the left for repetetive cuts.


One other thing to think about is to put in some type of positive stop for positioning the saw if you are going to want to take it out to other locations.

Dean

[Jim Becker]

I wonder if you can enlighten me as to why one might choose a double-tenon over a single-tenon. The area of glue-up might've increased but does it substantially so? What else am I missing here?

I believe that a double tenon is preferable to one very large tenon for wood movement reasons. The supports are pretty wide where they meet the posts! And even if that's absolutely true for some reason...I did it because Chris Gochnour designed it that way...and he has a lot more experience than I. :rolleyes:

[Jerry Todd]

Bill,
I went with four feet on both sides and have been happy with it.
Jerry

[Barry White]

Hi. I'm new to this forum and from downunder in Aussie.

Thought I would post a picture of the SCMS station that I have just built with a few minor things to finish.

This is a stand alone station as I dont have any wall space left and I have to push it into a corner with the wings closed down so I can get the cars into the garage.

The design came from Woodsmith Series put out by Timelife Books here in Australia.

The wing are 3 ft each side

[Tyler Howell]

Welcome Barry,
Nice portable station. Great space saver too.
Good to have you in the Creek. Great bunch of folks here.;)

[Don Abele]

Bill, here is the thread to my post for the miter saw station I built: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?threadid=5025 Mine is 8 feet long overall with an equal amount of table on either side of the saw (a little over 3 feet). With the aid of my drill press and/or router table I can cut stock well over 12 feet with repeatability pretty easily.

The underside of table doubles for some serious storage. I have wood racks above and now have 2 storage cabinets sitting behind each wing of the table.

BTW, the dust collection works amazingly well.

[Tyler Howell]

Don,
Sure is pretty.

As long as this has started. And those mean old Web. Admin. :D won't cough up a shop tour space. We should do shop equipment one piece at a time. Next week router stations.... We'll show them:mad::D:mad::rolleyes:
Thanks Web Masters for the best Wood Forum on the net.
T.

[John Miliunas]

Don,
Sure is pretty.

As long as this has started. And those mean old Web. Admin. :D won't cough up a shop tour space. We should do shop equipment one piece at a time. Next week router stations.... We'll show them:mad::D:mad::rolleyes:
Thanks Web Masters for the best Wood Forum on the net.
T.

Hey Tyler, I'm with you on the Shop Tours section. That is the single-most thing I miss from the Pond. On the other hand, I do believe our SMC Admins have their plates pretty full right now! I know your statement is purely tongue in cheek, but especially the newer folks might not understand how busy our top dudes and gals are. I'm sure they'll get to it, given some time and resources. In the meantime, onesy/twosey stuff is nice to see, as well! Keep those pics coming! BTW, having seen shots of your own shop, does that mean you've let LOYL have the living room back? :D :cool:

[Mark Singer]

Tyler,
Next week is snack bar stations in the shop...It is not open for discussion! Now I have to clear off the half eaten sandwiches...re stock the wine bar and get some Gunniess ... I will do a platter with snacks ....I have a DC line hooked to the cyclone for crumbs and small left overs... I have the photogaphers coming soon... and the gallery lighting...Oh this preparation makes me a bit nervous...and hungry...I think the Ben and Jerry's will photograph better opened...wait I'll be right back...:p

[Steve Clardy]

Heres mine, though this pic was taken before completition of the saw tables and dust guard. It's still not completely done!! lol Oh yea, 16' to the left, 6' to the right. Steve

[John Miliunas]

Heres mine, though this pic was taken before completition of the saw tables and dust guard. It's still not completely done!! lol Oh yea, 16' to the left, 6' to the right. Steve

Only 16', Steve? Holy moly, man! You building trusses in there or what? :D Ah, but it is nice to have the space to go that far, isn't it? I guess I coulda' done that on a different wall in my shop, but it would take away from the processing flow, so I elected not to do so. Plus, it's been a while since I've processed anything 22' long! :D Nice miter station, BTW! :cool:

[Tyler Howell]

Tyler,
Next week is snack bar stations in the shop...It is not open for discussion! Now I have to clear off the half eaten sandwiches...re stock the wine bar and get some Gunniess ... I will do a platter with snacks ....I have a DC line hooked to the cyclone for crumbs and small left overs... I have the photogaphers coming soon... and the gallery lighting...Oh this preparation makes me a bit nervous...and hungry...I think the Ben and Jerry's will photograph better opened...wait I'll be right back...:p


LMAO! Your good Mark!:D:D:D

[Tyler Howell]

Only 16', Steve? Holy moly, man! You building trusses in there or what? :D Ah, but it is nice to have the space to go that far, isn't it? I guess I coulda' done that on a different wall in my shop, but it would take away from the processing flow, so I elected not to do so. Plus, it's been a while since I've processed anything 22' long! :D Nice miter station, BTW! :cool:
Bridges the guy is building bridges!;)

[Steve Clardy]

Only 16', Steve? Holy moly, man! You building trusses in there or what? :D Ah, but it is nice to have the space to go that far, isn't it? I guess I coulda' done that on a different wall in my shop, but it would take away from the processing flow, so I elected not to do so. Plus, it's been a while since I've processed anything 22' long! :D Nice miter station, BTW! :cool:

Thanks John. If I ever get it finished, tables, door and drawer fronts---.
Hard to work in shop and find time to redo or make shop stuff.
I do custom staircases and kitchen and bath cabs, so need the length for handrails, etc.
Trusses? Hmmm. Maybe. Planning on adding on to the shop this fall when that ol' eagle lands.
:)

[John Miliunas]

Thanks John. If I ever get it finished, tables, door and drawer fronts---.
Hard to work in shop and find time to redo or make shop stuff.
I do custom staircases and kitchen and bath cabs, so need the length for handrails, etc.
Trusses? Hmmm. Maybe. Planning on adding on to the shop this fall when that ol' eagle lands.
:)


That's right...I forgot about all your splendid staircases! Makes sense. Yeah, and don't forget about the trusses....! That's a REAL worthy cause! :cool:

[Bill Karow]

Thanks to all who've responded. I've been torn between building something more portable like Barry has, or going with the larger cabinet like Don did. I was envisioning a scaled down version (8 instead of 15 foot) of Nahm's miter saw station, and Don has upped the ante on that idea!

Here's another goofy question. I'm also going to build a few upper cabinets for the shop while I'm working on this miter saw station, and I had the idea to make each set of doors different, kind of a menu of options using various raised panel sets and styles. Would that be too ugly? I'm almost hesitant to ask this crowd, given the beautiful furniture a lot of you try and pass of as shop cabinets!

Thanks-
Bill

[Chris Padilla]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, Bill! :) It would be good practise, no?

[John Miliunas]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, Bill! :) It would be good practise, no?

I'm 100% with Chris on this one, as well! Depending on how many you plan to make, maybe you can do them in pairs, one against the other, which would still give it some continuity, but allow for a sample selection, as well. I've got some butt ugly ones the former owner left here and that's exactly my plan, as well! I need the practice, big time, and no better way seeing what they look like than putting them into service. If, after a while, you get tired of the look, then just pick out the style you like best and convert the rest of them. :cool:

[Chris Padilla]

A good mantra might be "A shop full of mistakes but my home/clients not!" :)

[Don Abele]

Bill, my design is actually a combination of Norm's miter table and his storage shelf (plus a few design elements from ideas here and there). One surprise (and word of caution for you)...I didn't realize the final weight of my table - it's amazingly heavy, more than a ever could have imagined. So if you ever have to move it (which I will), keep that in mind.

As for the different door ideas, I like it. It's creative and lets visitors to the shop see what you are capable of making. A while back someone posted a pic of a shop cabinet they made where all the drawer fronts were a different species of wood. It was really cool looking and very creative. Again, a way of showing people what's available.

[Bill Karow]

I didn't realize the final weight of my table - it's amazingly heavy, more than a ever could have imagined.

I can imagine. I know how heavy my NYW rolling shop cart is, and it's maybe 1/3 the size of your station.

You mentioned your drawers are made of plywood. How did you attach the front drawer panel (not the actual veneer ply drawer front)? Nahm used dovetails, but I'm having trouble doing that cleanly even after sandwiching the baltic birch ply in sacrificial layers prior to using the jig.

Thanks-
Bill

[Don Abele]

Bill, I tried dovetails and found the same problem - lots of split out, regardless of backing. I got fed up with it and ended up just using a butt joint (with the front sitting inside the sides). I then used 1 1/2 inch brads spaced every couple of inches. So far, even on the big drawer loaded up with routers, circular saw, etc, I haven't had any problems.

Of course, after the fact I figured out what would be a better solution and would use it if I had to do it over again - box joints. While it probably wouldn't do much to add physical strength to the joint, it increases glue surface area (and looks nicer too). If doing a lot, I'd probably gang them all together and do them at once.

[Chris Padilla]

A little trick to keep the plywood from blowing out is to score it with a razor knife or marking knife or that neat little gizmo Mark Singer just posted about (Lee Valley Marking Gauge) works beautifully.

You still need to sandwich it. Try this out and see if it helps.

[Bill Karow]

Of course, after the fact I figured out what would be a better solution and would use it if I had to do it over again - box joints.

Don -

Is it the angle of the dovetails or the nature of the plywood that causes the blowout? I'm curious if box joints wouldn't exhibit some of the same issue. I guess if you stack them and put sacrificial layers front and back, it might be manageable.

I'm going to test Chris's suggestion of scoring the material first, then try ganged box joints next. Luckily I saved a pile of scraps for the test process! Final option is to rabbet the sides a bit and nail/glue the front in place, then add the veneer plywood fronts.

Thanks-
Bill

[Don Abele]

Bill, I'm not really sure if it's the angle or something else. I do know that the box joints ganged up and backed up with a sacrificial strip works well.