Photograv / engraving

[Doug Fennell]

Well, have had the laser up and running in the new shop for about a week now. The wife and kids have tied down or removed everything from my grasp for fear of having it lasered...

Been using photograv on clear acrylic and black painted acrylic with outstanding results - glass is another story. I have tried just about every combination I've found in the threads on the forum and haven't had much luck. Am I barking up the wrong tree?

Here's the basics - el cheapo frames from discount store
Photograv (negative image) for clear glass 300DPI
45W Helix - 87 speed and 100 power (per photograv)

[Ron Hamilton]

Hi Doug,

I would turn down the power and speed, I run glass at 19 power and 25 speed
on a 30 W Accuris laser results are good. I found that the higher power tends to shell the glass. The lower speed and power gives a whiter mark. I an primarily a sand etcher who has added a laser to the mix.

Try it and see...........

Ron..

[Sandra Force]

I agree, turn down the power and speed. About 25% of what you are using now will work better. You cannot get a sandblast look, what you will get nicely is a light etched look.

[Ryan Sprole]

Also try a lower resolution say 200 or 150. Glass like granite is better at a lower resolution.

[James Stokes]

One thing that helps with glass is to use the walnut parameter, It takes out a lot of the detail.

[Larry Bratton]

Doug:
In addition to what has already been said, I engrave glass on the back. Photograv will invert it for you as default, I think. When you create the graphic file for glass, make your background is black. Photograv will invert it and the laser won't fire so their is not white background (unless you want that). Check out my African Leopard on my website http://www.catawbariversigns.com/crs2_002.htm

[Stephen Beckham]

Doug,

I have the Mini 24 with 45W - I use one of two base settings.

150 DPI image - lasered at 300 DPI, 35 Speed and 100 Power
200 DPI image - lasered at 400 DPI, 45 Speed and 100 Power

I do cover the glass with wet paper towel. I recommend a bland/plain old brown towel you see in restrooms (you know the ones that don't do well drying your hands).

The other thing to do is use the interactive processing in PG. Turn off the Simulation - Go to the grey settings screen and move the white to 255 and the black to 15~25. The objective is to see no white in the sample on the right. But the reverse is also bad to have it too dark. Too dark will give you a ghostly image on the glass.

Give those settings a shot - if you still have problems, PM me and I'll send you a file from the office tomorrow to see if you can get it to work and see if we can work the settings out from there...

[Larry Bratton]

Well, have had the laser up and running in the new shop for about a week now. The wife and kids have tied down or removed everything from my grasp for fear of having it lasered...

Been using photograv on clear acrylic and black painted acrylic with outstanding results - glass is another story. I have tried just about every combination I've found in the threads on the forum and haven't had much luck. Am I barking up the wrong tree?

Here's the basics - el cheapo frames from discount store
Photograv (negative image) for clear glass 300DPI
45W Helix - 87 speed and 100 power (per photograv)
Speeds too fast. 25s/100pwr at 300dpi is what I use with 40watt Epilog EXT.