Hand held planes... which ones are best

[John Viercinski]

I'll be starting a kitchen cabinet project shortly.. in two months or so. I was wondering if I should pick up a few hand held planes to make the job a little easier. I'll probably need to take the edge of some doors and clean up a couple joints.. any suggestions??

[Jim Becker]

At a minimum, I believe that every woodworker should at least have a good quality block plane...not a cheap one...and learn how to properly sharpen the iron. Sharp means it will easily shave hair on your arm which is something you can't do off a grinder. (And a grinder is a good way to ruin the iron) My choice is the low-angle adjustable mouth type...mine is a Lie-Neilson, but the Veritas from Lee Valley is also excellent.

Normally I would move this thread to the Neander Forum (which I can do as a moderator), but I think this is a good topic to keep in front of tailed-tool users. Some hand tools are essential to doing quality work and this is one example of that. I couldn't live with out my little block plane at this point and frankly, it's led me to discover a number of other hand tools that have expand my skills and capabilities many times the cost of the tools.

[John Viercinski]

Thanks for the advice Jim.. but you mentioned I should learn how to properly sharpen them... How does one properly sharpen the iron? Do I need a wet stone?

[Brent Ring]

Without being too much of an expert, some recent issues of FWW, and PWW have had great articles on sharpening chisels and IMHO the same principles apply. I called a couple of counter top shops that specialize in granite tops and they gave me a couple of cutoffs for free, one which was about 18" x 30". I use that as a base surface, and wet/dry sandpaper, along with a honing guide to keep my chisels sharp. I will be testing it out on a hand plane blade when mine goes dull. Be prepared to spend 2-3 hours. I put on a movie that I dont have to watch, but enjoy listening to, and hone away!

[Alan Tolchinsky]

John, That question would take a book to answer but there are several methods of sharpening available. Until you learn this your planes will be very frustrating to use. You can use sandpaper, water stones, or machines to sharpen. I suggest you buy a good book and research this more, like Lee's book on sharpening. I think You Tube has some good videos on it too. There is a learning curve to sharpening but well worth the journey.

[Brent Ring]

BTW, I agree with Jim, my card scrapers and block plane are essential in my projects, along with my chisels. I am in no way a hand plane expert, but I love my card scrapers, (Mostly becasue I hate sanding and the dust it generates)!

[Todd Bin]

THe best hand plane is the one you build yourself. The latest issue of FWW has and article on how to do this. Get the Hock blade. They are great. I use the one I build earlier this year a lot. It is infinitely better than the grog or stanely planes I have. Build it out of a really hard wood like bubinga.

To sharpen use water stones. I sharpen mine up to 8000. Start with 800 then 2500 then 4000 then 8000. get one of the jigs that hold the blade while you push it over the waterstone.

[Jim Becker]

The only issue I have with the "build your own idea" is that I think someone will have better results if they know what to expect by owning and using a good quality plane first. Outside of that, it's a very nice idea...and a great woodworking project in itself.

[John Thompson]

I won't go into sharpening systems as I have cut my teeth on Arkansas Black Stones.. progressed to water stones and ended up with sand-paper which was there available the entire time before it was revealed as a quick, relatively clean and produced an excellent edge. Much has been written and spoken so a google search will get you there as far as explanation.

So.. what my post intention was to congratulate Jim Becker for leaving this question in this section. I have been here a short time, but noticed that a number of questions as this are moved to the Neander Section and right-fully a good way to categorize them. But... many entry level WW will not even glance at that section as Neander implies to most that the techniques are primitive compared to all the high tech currently on the market.

After 36 years I have evolved from hand tools and a few hand held power tools to modern machines with quite a few very large. They are most definitely time savers but... but... there is not one project nor hardly a day I don't use a low-angle block plane.. medium shoulder plane..card scraper and a hand-held chisel as I am in the shop every day.

Even with the advance of modern tools and their capabilities, there a few tools (you could call them Neander, but that is a mistake IMO) that have a definite function I feel is essential to producing good work and you would have a hard time finding a replacement for connected to a power cord.

So Mr. Becker... you get a feather in your hat for your reasoning and I am glad you spoke out as to why and didn't move it to properly categorize! The sooner most come to understand there is no current corded replacement for what some of these so-called Neander tools can do.. the sooner most will discover how work will improve when you can reach in a "full bag of tricks" to chose the best suited tool to perform a specific task..

Sarge..

[David G Baker]

John and Jim,
Thank you both. You have inspired me to give hand tools a try. I have a bunch of old planes that I have picked up over the years but haven't put them to use because of my lack of understanding how to use them correctly. When I do a project I usually rush through it and am to lazy to spend the time going through the learning curve necessary for the hand tools.
I might have to start hanging out on the Neander Forum.

[Lee Schierer]

THis post might be better responded to on the Neander side, but since you asked. A good block plane can be obtained in several ways. Lee Valley and others make good ones but they can be a bit pricey. You can also pick up some old stanley block planes at yard sales and flea markets for $10-20. Cleaning one up and sharpening it isn't all that hard and you get a good solid tool. A Stanley #9 is a good choice and they ar fairly common.
http://www.toolexchange.com.au/imagesUSERS/stanley925usa5530.jpg

If you run across one of these grab it as they are great for breaking the sharp corners on cabinet work.
http://www.toolexchange.com.au/imagesUSERS/5miniplanes8220.jpg

You may also want to pick up a low angle block plane like this one.
http://www.toolexchange.com.au/imagesUSERS/stanley60.56226.jpg


A bench plane like this would be useful.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/2.jpg

[Sam Yerardi]

Dave,

I'm new to this forum and I can relate to what you're talking about. This past year I made a commitment to myself that once and for all I would start using hand tools more and power tools less. Firts on my list was moving beyond the occasional use of a Stanley #4. The key to using any of the old hand tools (any tools for that matter) is to get them tuned up first. Spend as much time as you need getting the sharpest edge you can. Otherwise you'll get very discouraged very quickly. Once you experience taking that first onion skin-thin shaving from a piece of wood you will be hooked. Guarantee it.

[Greg Cole]

100% agree with all ww'ers needing at least a block plane..... also believe if you get a good one you will at least look into some other Neander tooling. I started with 2 borg planes a few years ago & that was the WORST thing I could have done as I had a bad taste & forbid neander tools in my methods.... until I started spending 4 hour blocks of time to sanding... sanding & sanding.
Perfect example for anyone afraid of neander tools is a mahogany hall table I'm currently working on. After all stock prep, cutting joinery etc... I spent about 30 mintues prepping all surface for finish application.
Powered jointer, planer & table saw used for the grunt work. All milling marks were very quickly removed with a finish plane ( #4) and final surface prep via card scraping. With a ROS and progressive grit sanding, I'd have been using 120 grit longer than it took to prep all parts n pieces.. then the progress through the grits to 180 or 220... YUCK. No thanks :D.
I've quickly become a hybrid tailed & neanderer....... it is definately worthwhile to at least try one hand plane of reputable brand.... they haven't been around for 100's & 100's of years just for tradition!

Greg

[Greg Peterson]

My 60 1/2 block plane is never more than an arms length away. That said, planes (block and bench) are invaluable when working solid stock. Plywood is a different matter.

I'm not sure where a plane would be the best tool when working with sheet goods.

Regardless, once you have a block plane (a good one) you'll have little problem finding myriad uses for it.

[Sam Yerardi]

One problem I think you might run into with using a plane on plywood (at least on a regular basis) is the effect cutting the glues in the plywood will have on the cutting edge. Cutting through solid glue dulls the edge quickly. I do use them with plywood but I tend to use sandpaper more.

[John Thompson]

John and Jim,
Thank you both. You have inspired me to give hand tools a try. I have a bunch of old planes that I have picked up over the years but haven't put them to use because of my lack of understanding how to use them correctly. When I do a project I usually rush through it and am to lazy to spend the time going through the learning curve necessary for the hand tools.
I might have to start hanging out on the Neander Forum.

You could get your feet wet with just a low-angle block plane and it doesn't have to be Lie-Neilson or LV. I purchased a cheap Stanly low-angle 30 years ago and it will educate you to the principles of how a hand plane works. Keep in mind it is bevel up as opposed to bevel down on a standard block plane.

I have an LV low-angle smoother, but I never replaced that Stanley L/A as it works fine. If you can master it with it's finicky to adjust parts.. you will understand why the LV or LN cost more if you ever get to use one. Keep in mind the steel of the iron Stanley uses now is probably low grade and thin compared to Stanley of old, but it would be a good place to start in lieu of rushing out and spending a wad on hand-planes.

And if you don't know how to use and sharpen a card scraper... you are totally missing the boat as I would have to consider it my most used tool next to my "old school style pencil sharpener". It is a hand plane with no moving parts and a finesse tool indeed.

If you produce dust when trying one... go back to square one as yiou should produce shaving that are ultra fine and the cost of sand-paper will decrease in your shop. Once you learn to put an edge on one, it can be done in under a minute as I de-burr and re-burnish quite often during a project. As soon as dust starts appearing instead of fine shaving.. stop.. square it with a file and re-burnish a new burr. And BTW... a card scraper is not the best choice on soft-wood.

Good luck with your journey...

Sarge..

[Sam Yerardi]

I agree a block plane like a Stanley 60-1/2 would be good. If you are going to be doing a lot of end grain planing a Stanley 102 might work better. And I personally would have a Stanley 5 and a Stanley 7 if you are trying to true up long edges. The Stanley 7 does a great job.

[Danny Thompson]

Two recommendations:

1) Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Adjustable Mouth Block Plane

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A260.htm

2) Lee Valley Low Angle Bevel Up Jack Plane

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=52515&cat=1,41182

or an old (< 1950) Stanley Bailey #4 or #5 from a reputable dealer.

[Rich Schneider]

For cabinet work I would get a side rabbet plane such as a Stanley or Lie Nielson 98 or 99 (or both a 98 and 99), a chisel plane and a block plane. Some of this recommendation depends on how you plan to build your cabinet carcass and doors of course. The side rabbet is nice if you ended up with a dado or a rabbet that is a scoochie narrow/tight and works fine on sheet goods assuming it is sharp and set correctly....typically what gives one problems is the grain direction of the larger inner plys of the sheet when trying to do any kind of planing...the outer veneers are fairly thin but cut nicely even across the grain...

[Mike Cutler]

I'll be starting a kitchen cabinet project shortly.. in two months or so. I was wondering if I should pick up a few hand held planes to make the job a little easier. I'll probably need to take the edge of some doors and clean up a couple joints.. any suggestions??

John
As the others have stated a block plne is a must. The Stanley 60 1/2 is probably the best all around block plane. The adjustable mouth makes it much more than a one trick pony. It is a very versatile plane.
The Stanley 102 and 103 block planes are nice. Smaller than the 60 1/2, but with no adjustable mouths. The 60 1/2 and the 102 have the same bedding angles. The 103 has a higher angle. (Angles and sharpening are entire subject unto themselves.:eek:,;) ). Some people don't like the non adjustability of the 102 and 103. I've never known it to be an issue personally. The reason for the difference in angle is for difficulty of grain and types( hardness) of wood.

One more plane to consider for cabinetry, depending on the joinery, is a shoulder plane to clean up any mortised, or shiplapped joints.

Another plane for consideration in cabinetry is the Rabbet Plane to clean up, and or resize rabbet joints.

Bench Planes will definitely work their way into your shop. The Stanley #5 (Jack Plane) is probably the best start out with. No matter which way you go, new or used, get bench planes with adjustable frogs. It's easier to adjust the mouth when the frog, iron(blade), chip breaker and cap move together. As Sam pointed out the #7 is a valuable plane to have around. I personally like the #6 also, but some people think it's a waste. Not a true Jointer Plane like a #7 or a #8, and not a Jack Plane (#5). Convention is to progress from the #5 to the #7, or the #8. I like the size though.

There are a few folks on the Neander Forum that sell refurbished Stanley Planes, ready to go. I think Clint Jones is one of them. Pose the question on the Neander Forum on where to buy them and you'll get some good responses. Buying used would definitely save you $$$ over buying new, but there is nothing wrong with buying new either.
Trying to complete the project, Refurbish a used tool(s), learn to sharpen, and learn to use the tool(s), might be a little bit much all at once.

[Rich Schneider]

Often the difference between good work quality, great work quality, and absolute perfection while still meeting a deadline is the right application/combination of machine and hand tools...so learn everything you can about the setup, care and sharpening of those hand tools...


John and Jim,
Thank you both. You have inspired me to give hand tools a try. I have a bunch of old planes that I have picked up over the years but haven't put them to use because of my lack of understanding how to use them correctly. When I do a project I usually rush through it and am to lazy to spend the time going through the learning curve necessary for the hand tools.
I might have to start hanging out on the Neander Forum.

[Danny Thompson]

John V. The cheapest way to get started sharpening is with the "Scary Sharp" method, which allows you to get a very sharp edge with sandpaper.

[Chuck Burns]

I think "tailed" and neander each have their place. I started out with an Stanley #4 and a Buck Bros block plane that I'd had for quite some time.

I first bought a LN 60 1/2 and #62 Low Angle Jack. What a revelation. So what I'd recomend may sound strange, but I'd spend the money on a quality new plane, either a Lie-Nielsen of Lee/Veritas (I confess that I like the looks of the LN better) so that you can start using a plane that is flat and square. After you've used that you can start buying and refurbing old planes if you want.

I have subsequently have bought a LN 4 1/2 Smoother and ordered a LN 60 1/2 Rabbit Block plane (normally 150.00 but on sale right now at Woodcraft for 119.00). I also bought a blade and chipbreaker from LN for my old Stanley #4.

The entre to a quality plane may not be as high as you think. You can buy a #102I (I for iron as opposed to brass) block plane direct from LN for 75.00. You won't regret it.

[Randy Klein]

Thanks for the advice Jim.. but you mentioned I should learn how to properly sharpen them... How does one properly sharpen the iron? Do I need a wet stone?

Just be careful, sharpening is the gateway drug towards the slope...:D

[David G Baker]

John T,
I haven't looked at my planes for several years, I will have to get them out of storage and see what I have. None are new and a couple are very old. When I was a kid I spent hours getting an edge on a Kbar pocket knife that would shave and hold an edge. I am assuming the principal is similar for a plane. I do put serious edges on my putty knives and keep them sharp with wet/dry sand paper of differing grits.
This thread has really taken off and is filled with some great information.