Mini gloat and Cyclone wall mounting question

[Tim Quigley]

Well, I finally pulled the trigger and scored the 2HP Grizzly G0440 I've been thinking about for 2 years. Being an hour from the Muncy showroom doesn't help the habit! I decided to get it just before the holiday sale prices ended. Matter of fact, I was there on New Year's eve and they locked the door behind me as I left. As luck would have it, it was out of stock for a mid-January delivery but they called 2-days later saying it was in stock. Go figure. Just gave me a chance to make another trip and score more stuff! And, $675 for the the thing...I just couldn't resist!

Anyhow, haven't had a chance to install it yet, but I'm going through the mental gymnastics trying to figure out exactly where it will go and how the piping will run. But, one question I am wondering about is the install of the unit on the wall. If installing on a normal wood-framed wall with drywall, the manual calls for attaching 2x6 and 2x12 boards to the wall and then attaching the cyclone to the boards. Certainly makes sense over drywall. But, in my shop I covered much of the drywall with 3/4 inch plywood. My questions is...can I attach directly to the plywood? Or, do I need to attach the cyclone to a thicker board? Given all the other stuff I have hanging from the walls, it would seem the plywood would be plenty strong but, an engineer I'm not and last thing I want is this thing crashing to the floor some day. Any thoughts?

One other question to anyone who has installed the Grizzly cyclones. All of the pictures show the inlet port and the output/filter at 180 degrees from each other. But, given that this thing is round, it would seem you could install the unit with the inlet and outlet at other configurations. I haven't looked a the parts closely to see if this is the case, but was just curious if anyone has done it or knows if it can be done.

Thanks in advance and I promise pics when I get it installed.

Tim

[Julian Wong]

Tim,
Congrats on your new toy. I'm sure your lungs will breathe easy now.... ;)

If your wall is covered with 3/4" ply, I would go ahead and mount it directly onto the ply. I would just drive in a few more screws into the bracket to make sure everthting is secure.

There should be no reason why the inlet and outlet cannot be at different angles. After all, it's a unidirectional (outward) impeller.

Have fun and post some pics.

[David Duke]

Tim, I've got 3/4 ply on my walls also and the 2hp Oneida cyclone. What I done on mine was on the back side (the opposite side was exposed on my walls at the time) I glued/screwed another layer of 3/4 ply between the studs where the brackets were to be mounted and installed 3/8" T-nuts so that I could simply bolt the brackets up instead of using lag screws. If your not able to do this or if the brackets don't fall on studs, I would mount on the 2x's as instructed, I don't think lag screws would hold up the weight of the cyclone and filter just in one thickness of plywood these units are HEAVY!!!!!!!!.........just my humble opinion.

[Jerry Booher]

I am in the process of assembling and installing my 2.5hp Oneida cyclone. I have a block wall on one side and a stud wall with sheetrock on the other. I, too, am trying to decide whether or not to use the bracket lag-screwed to the stud wall or build a 2x2 angle iron stand. If Oneida supplied a bracket and recommends lag screws, I believe they know it will hold.

I think that 3/4 plywood would hold, but I would not use lag screws unless I screwed a 2x4 under the bracket to give more wood for the lag screws to bite.

I decided that a vibrating bracket on sheetrock may not be as solid as I would like. I am going to place a 3/4 plywood spacer under the entire 24x18 bracket and lag screw through the plywood, sheetrock and into the studs.

Update: I feel like a politician. I am flip-flopping. After spending all afternoon hanging the wall bracket and then struggling to lift the cone and blower housing onto the bracket, I am changing my mind. The unit tilts slightly under the weight. I am afraid to hang the 100# motor on top of it. and I do not like the idea of a tilting cyclone. I also am paranoid about hanging that much weight off of 4 lag screws. Consequently, tomorrow I am going to build an angle iron stand and remove the wall bracket.

[Josh LaFrance]

When I put mine up on a sheet rock wall I used a triple layer of ply and counter sunk the lag bolts. This was so I could orient the filter on the side I wanted it. Without that much stand off from the wall I couldn't put the filter on the left side of the cyclone. It would have been rubbing the wall. I know this isn't optimum as the wall will be a flow restriction but I doubt it's a big deal. If I were you I'd use at least 1 more layer but I'd probably just use 2. Ply is cheap. You've probably got scrap lying around big enough. I also used 5.5" 3/8" lag bolts. Thank goodness for my impact driver. I'll try to remember to post some pics tonight. If not PM me. You can rotate the barrel in about 20 degree increments. Obviously you get to a point where you'd be pointing at the wall or the filter but it gives a good amount of options.

[Larry Fox]

I used unistrut (the stuff you buy at electrical supply houses) to install mine. I lagged into the studs at multiple points and hung the unit over it with a thick 8" rubber plumbing coupler between the cyclone and blower (see pics). The blower unit bracketing is lagged into the ceiling beams which are also reinforced from above. Please disregard the mess - I just finished up painting the entire shop yesterday and it looks MUCH better.

78832

[Darl Bundren]

I built a stand for my Clearvue out of 2x6s and it is working well.

[Josh LaFrance]

Here's the pics. You can see how the filter is on the left side. When on the left the outlet is on the wall side. This requires the housing be mounted at least 2.25" from the wall and my filter is just about touching the wall. As you might notice in my picture I bought the barrel extension and clamp to make it 55 gallons like the 3hp version. Only cost about $45. You can see however that the hose that connects the barrel and the cyclone is to short however. I used the mounting heights for the 3hp version. Turns out for some reason the hose that comes with the 3hp is 4-5" longer. God only know why there is a difference. You could either mount it lower or buy some longer hose from grizzly which is about $35. I wasn't about to take it back off the wall so I'm going to get the longer hose which should make changing the barrel easier anyway.

[John Bush]

Hi Tim,
Congrats, you will be happy with your new cyclone. I mounted mine to the wall of an attached shed and used the 2 bys as prescribed. I designed the shed to have the outlet pointing left, so I had to drill new mounting holes on the flange opposite the factory holes. I predrilled the holes in the 2x6 to make mounting easier and was able to use a chain hoist to lift the motor and fan housing into place. I added pieces of old conveyor belt for vibration dampening but would recommend getting official dampening pads for better effect. The unit is quiet but the wall does act like a monster subwoofer with a low frequency hum. I think that I would use the stand knowing now how the unit transfers the hum to the wall. I use a 55 gal drum and welded a set of wheels on it so I can roll it out of the shed to the compost heap. Much easier than lifting it into a wheelbarrow and spilling half of the dust across the drive. I built a ramp the same height as the threshold then slanted it upward so the barrel slides under the cylcone lid without wrestling with it. Josh had mentioned buying a longer hose but it would save a few bucks and it makes more sense to either make a dolley that adds the height needed or make a ramp that would elevate the barrel when in position. Good luck with your install and enjoy you new DC.



PS: if you really want to spoil yourself, look into the Ecogate system. It is spendy but is a big time saver and well worth it. JCB.

[Tim Quigley]

Thanks to everyone for all the great replies and especially the pics! I like the idea of putting some support behind the wall, but I don;t have access to that. So, I think I'll just be safe and add some extra ply if I have any scrap that big or I'll just put the 2x material in place. Now that I think about it, I think I have some 2x12 in the shed that will fit bill.

I'll post some pics as soon as I have time to work on the thing.

Thanks again.

Tim

[Greg Narozniak]

When I mounted my 2hp Oneida Commercial unit the Angle Iron brackets are mounted to a piece of 3/4" plywood and that plywood is lag bolted into two studs. I has been very stable.

In my old house I had the same setup but the unit did tilt a little so using 1/4" steel cable from the Borg I mounted it to one hole in the impeller housing and then into a rafter. I added an adapter (Cannot think of the proper name but it has 2 eyes with a treaded insert in the middle to take of the slack) As I tightened it up it took up any slack and leveled the unit.

The one thing I have to work on is with the unit mounted to the back of an interior wall the vibration (Humming noise inside the house) is annoying so I need to figure out some type of vibration mount. Maybe some sort of Rubber Grommet around the lag bolts.

Congrats on the new Sucker :)

[John Bush]

Hi Greg, I had the same issue with the hum. I used peices of rubber that were too dense and they don't seem to dampen well. I got a new compressor and a local industrial compressor shop sold me "official" dampening pads to place under the three feet of the tank before securing to the slab. They recommended them to protect the welds connecting the feet to the tank. They were ~three inches square, had corrugated rubber on each side, then layers of cork, and a central core of a fairly dense composite. Seems to work for the compressor. I may ultimately make a stand and unbolt the DC from the wall-- in my spare time.

[Barry Lloyd]

Tim,

I have the same unit you do and was a last minute 2007 shopper as well. New Year's eve I was on Grizzly.com placing my order. Any way, unit arrived and I proceeded with my wall mounting plans. Used a hoist as another member mentioned to hang it on the wall (Contrary to what the manual says, one person can assemble and install this beast if he has a lot of patience and a little skill or vice-versa...) I used the 2x12 and 2x6 as the manual called for to mount it to. My shop walls are 1/4" plywood over 2x6 studs. All went well until I fired it up for the first time. Although the machine ran smooth, the other side of my shop wall is finished basement space - a "rec" room of sorts. When I walked around into this room, every single picture, poster, and other items hanging on the walls, including adjacent walls to the one the cyclone was mounted to, were all vibrating, rattling, and just about to fall off the walls. There was so much vibration being transmitted through the walls that I quickly realized that my wife would be quickly pulling the plug on my new toy - literally.

So I took the plunge I was hoping to avoid from a cost standpoint and ordered the stand. Got it assembled and the cyclone moved to it last night. Much better. I was afraid I was going to start cracking drywall joints if I left it mounted to the wall.

So...long story for a short point...if the opposite side of the wall you intend to mount it to is finished space, you might want to consider Grizzly's stand. Money well spend in my experience.

Barry

[Greg Narozniak]

Hi Greg, I had the same issue with the hum. I used peices of rubber that were too dense and they don't seem to dampen well. I got a new compressor and a local industrial compressor shop sold me "official" dampening pads to place under the three feet of the tank before securing to the slab. They recommended them to protect the welds connecting the feet to the tank. They were ~three inches square, had corrugated rubber on each side, then layers of cork, and a central core of a fairly dense composite. Seems to work for the compressor. I may ultimately make a stand and unbolt the DC from the wall-- in my spare time.
Thanks John I will look into that. Sounds like it would make sense to use something like that.

My issue is in no way as bad as Barry's as the Family room wall that is opposite the Oneida just has the hum but the pictures have stayed put.

[Jim Becker]

The cyclone has substantial weight. I'd go with the 2x material lagged into the studs even though you have the 3/4" plywood on the wall. That's how I mounted my 2hp Oneida commercial system and it's rock solid.

[Rob Will]

I think you need to transfer most of the weight to the floor. For my cyclone I built a steel frame. 2x wood could work as well.

Rob