Jointer Help

[matthew Roberts]

I recently purchased a Jet JJ-6CSX Jointer and after taking a few measurements I now realize that the infeed table is not parallel to the outfeed table. It slopes down as you measure from the front to the back (the back being the fence side.) Is there any way to actually adjust this or am I stuck with a paper weight?


Thanks in advance.

[Mike Marcade]

It tells you how to adjust in the manual here:

http://content.jettools.com/manuals/m_708457DXK.pdf

[glenn bradley]

The manual will tell you how to remove play if that is the only problem. Let's hope it is, otherwise; break out the shim material and gain an appreciation for p-bed jointers ;-(

[Eddie Darby]

In a pinch, if you need to shim something, and need some shim stock, then pop cans can be a good convenient source.

Here's a nice web-page on jointer fixing.

http://www.americanwoodworker.com/aspx/ContentDetail.aspx?ContentId=1041&PageNo=1

Enjoy!

[matthew Roberts]

Thanks for the quick replies. I have already read the manual and tried tightening the gibbs and that did not fix the problem. Look like I will be experimenting with the shims. Luckily I have plenty of shim stock at work so that won't be a problem. Seems like it is just going to be a pain.

[keith micinski]

I s this common with joiners? I am am going to be buying one soon and if I brought a new one home and had to start using pop cans to shim it it would be going back and I would need a serious attitude adjustment.

[matthew Roberts]

I'm not sure if this is common or not with new jointers. Mine is used so do not take this issue as a standard. I agree though, if mine were new I would be pretty PO'd.


matt

[glenn bradley]

I s this common with joiners? I am am going to be buying one soon and if I brought a new one home and had to start using pop cans to shim it it would be going back and I would need a serious attitude adjustment.

Not sure if Matt's machine is new or not, if so this would be a warranty issue. A new machine should at least be within the manufacturer's tolerances. Although some manufacturer's tolerances are a bit more sloppy than we would like, they are generally usable and some of us (read me) just like to get things a bit better. There are tools I pass on, knowing the specs and not caring for them. So Matt, if you're reading this and your machine was not bought used, call Jet before you break out the shims.

P.s. Ooops, just read Matt's post that the machine was used. No problem, it'll just take some TLC, shim away.

[Mike Marcade]

Like Glen above, I like my tools to be as accurate as I can get them, not just within the manufacturer's tolerances. So I keep a supply of shim stock handy.

Personally I have never bought a major power tool that didn't need a little bit of adjusting and tweaking.

[Mike Cutler]

I s this common with joiners? I am am going to be buying one soon and if I brought a new one home and had to start using pop cans to shim it it would be going back and I would need a serious attitude adjustment.

Keith.

I have the same jointer that Matthew just purchased and it didn't need the gibs and ways worked to make it parallel.
But...... and very big "but". Machines in this price range (new),may need some "tweaking" right out of the box.

Matthew.
There is an 1/8" locking detent on the infeed table of your jointer. A spring loaded pin inserts itself, and has to be manualyl retracted to position the table once it engages.
Be very aware of this pin, or you will get a prime opportunity to observe the gibs and ways of your machine when you have to replace the ballcrank that just got broken.:eek: Yep I did it.:o You also get to learn to adjust the gibs.
I took that pin out after I had to repair my jointer.

[Greg Cole]

Matt,
Just tighening the gibs will not necessarily do anything for the sag unless you have a way to see-feel-measure the movement of the table. I spent a fair amount of time last month going over my 8" Grizzly.... the relationship of what gib does what in regards to the tightness of the others is something you can play with some. Get a real straight edge (not a level or a framing square) & I used a very bright back light to see underneath the straight edge & a feeler gauge for eliminating guessing at hairline gaps... loosen all the gibs and tighten them one at a time (no need to crank down on em, just snug). By doing this you can see what gib has what influence on the table (ie which one pulls the front down, which one raises the back) I initially thought I needed to shim mine but some very minute & very careful gib tightening I got mine dead nuts. This process can dirve you nuts til ya get the feel. DAMKHIT ;).
Not sure of the age of your jointer, but with the small amount of movement the gibs see on most machines would (should) take a very long time to substancially wear the gibs n ways IMO.

$0.02 donation....

Greg

[matthew Roberts]

Quick update.

After gathering some shim stock and an indicator from work I went to work on the jointer. A quick initial check showed the tables a little over 0.020" out :eek:

Quick investigation showed the previous had that pin jammed into the jointer in a bind. I removed it and tightened the gibbs and the tables were within 10 thousands.

A single .005 shim later and the tables are near perfect. Thanks for the help and the links!!