Straight Edge

[Steven Bolton]

A good straight edge is not cheap. I was looking at this one at Woodpeckers for 89.00. I think I can get a 10% discount.

I wonder:

1. How useful is this tool. I always like to see how flat my table surface is and if I built a router table it would be nice to know how flat it is.

2. Are these things as accurate as they say?

3. Outside of not dropping it, does it remain accurate?

Anyone with experience with one?

Thanks

Steve Bolton

[Mike Marcade]

They are pretty decent. The straightness specs aren't quite as good as Starrett or Surburban Tool but it should do the job.

The woodpeckers straightedge is +/- .001" per foot the other ones I mentioned are +/- .0005" per foot.

The prices are about the same. I got my Suburban tool straightedges from Mcmaster-Carr.

[Steven Bolton]

The Veritas straightedges seem reasonably priced. Anyone had experience with these?

Thanks

Steve Bolton

[Ken Shoemaker]

I recognize this is a stealth goate, but a freind of mine knows a machinest that owed him a favor. Ed went to him, asking him to make me a 4' straight edge. The result was a 4' X 2" X 1/2" solid alauminum bar that has some rediculous kind of flatness spec that I don't understand.

I was apreciative when I got it but was not sure how much I would use it after I got my tables flat. I wqas goiing to build a real nice box to put it in so it didn't get bent, even though it is so thick it might be impossible to damage it. I have never made said box because I use it ALL THE TIME and don't want to take the time to unpack it.

If you get one, I bet you'll use it far more than you ever thought you would.

Find a great deal and have fun... Money well spent....... Ken

[Mike Marcade]

heh heh, I dropped one of the Woodpeckers/Pinnacle straightedges from Woodcraft. It is .250" thick tool steel and it sure as hell bent in the flat direction. The edges are still pretty straight but in the other direction it is like a potato chip. :mad:

[glenn bradley]

The Veritas straightedges seem reasonably priced. Anyone had experience with these?

Thanks

Steve Bolton

I have the 36" Veritas steel that runs about $66. I also have LV's extra long feeler gauges. I am very happy with both and you can have both for less than the Woodpecker. Not that the Woodpecker isn't nice but the Veritas is thicker and stands up on edge well and is just as accurate (a little better according to their site). Fortunately, there are many to choose from. I understand McMaster's has a good selection.

[Brandon Shew]

I've got a LV Veritas 24" on order. I can't comment on the Woodpeckers one, but all of the LV tools that I have or have seen in person are pretty nice.

Pros & Cons:
1) Veritas one is accurate to .001" over the entire length which is more accurate than Woodpeckers' .001"/foot.
2) Lee Valley's price is better too so you could get a 36" straightedge and a set of feelers for the same price.
3) The Veritas doesn't have the handholds like Woodpecker.
4) Woodpecker comes with a wall mount case.
5) Veritas indicates that their steel has been "stress-relieved" to remain true under temperature variation. Woodpeckers doesn't say anything about stress relief.
6) The Veritas 36"er is 5/8 thick and 1/4 thick at 24" (same as Woodpecker at 24").

[John-Paul Murphy]

IMHO a good straight edge is indispensible. I have several from different sources none absurdly expensive. I am always checking things with them since my shop is mobile in that I must constantly move tools around for use. But for me only, all those 0’s of accuracy really do not come into play after all its wood and I do not try to meet machine tolerances just those for wood. (my opinion only)
Beware the used market on these things…….why get rid of a good straight edge:confused: unless it’s not straight…

[Gary Keedwell]

I bought a Starrett 4' a few years ago and only recently made a nice hinged box with flocking interior. I always handled it cautiously but wanted further protection. I use it as a standard to check my other straightedges and levels and occasionally use it to check my work. Personally, I like to have my "best" measuring tools safely tucked away in drawers and boxes.
Gary

[Mike Marcade]

and occasionally use it to check my work

I don't use my fancy ground straightedges to check my work ... I would just get depressed doing that. :o

[Gary Keedwell]

I don't use my fancy ground straightedges to check my work ... I would just get depressed doing that. :o
You notice how I said OCCASIONALLY?;) I'm too chicken to drag it out very often:D

Gary

[Mike Marcade]

You notice how I said OCCASIONALLY?;) I'm too chicken to drag it out very often:D

Gary

I would probably try slitting my wrists with the damn thing. :D

[JayStPeter]

I have one of the steel and one of the Al straight edges from LV. They are nice and I don't really have a desire to buy anything "nicer". The steel one is quite durable, but I'm very careful with the aluminum one as I had an older (thinner) aluminum LV straight edge that has so many dings in it it's useless anymore.

[Steven Bolton]

So Jay, if you didn't have anything, what would you buy now, steel or aluminum. The 38 inch aluminum from Lee Valley is 39.90.

sb

[Richard Wagner]

Please don't pounce on me for this but I just need to ask.

Just how straight does a straight edge have to be useful in a garage woodshop?

I fully understand the need for a professional craftsman who is turning out heirlooms. I don't do that. I'm proud when I get good joints and corners that read square with my sliding t-square.

Is there a chance that a precision straight edge would improve my work? Be nice now.

[Mike Marcade]

I just mostly use the precision straightedges for setting up and checking the machines for accuracy.

[Steven Bolton]

I noticed that the Lee Valley straight edges are more accurate and less expensive if you buy their aluminum ones rather then the steel ones.

I wonder why.

sb

[Gary Keedwell]

Please don't pounce on me for this but I just need to ask.

Just how straight does a straight edge have to be useful in a garage woodshop?

I fully understand the need for a professional craftsman who is turning out heirlooms. I don't do that. I'm proud when I get good joints and corners that read square with my sliding t-square.

Is there a chance that a precision straight edge would improve my work? Be nice now.
Richard...To be honest, my original motive to buy my straightedge was to finally adjust my jointer tables the correct way. I was pulling my hair out every nite for a couple of weeks and I couldn't get a straight edge on my wood. After I acquired my SE it was fixed right away. I could clearly see where my outfeed table was sagging. It did not show on my two levels that I thought were straight.:mad:
Needless to say, I'm glad I have it because it really eases my mind. I know it might just be psychological, but it gives me peace of mind and I'm always finding ways to use it. It is my go to edge. My standard, so to speak.
Gary

[John-Paul Murphy]

aluminum is lighter = lower freight
easier to machine = lower tooling cost
It's also easier to bend;)

[Victor Stearns]

IN response to Gary's question as to the need for a good straight edge. I use my Starret for tool set up and it comes in especally handy when checking my jointer such that the infeed-outfeed tables are parellel. Also used when I check my table saw extension tables.
Victor

[Gil Liu]

Hi,

I used John White's approach of making 'masterbars.' You can google "John White Shim Jointer" and find a link to his book "Care and Maintenance of Shop Machines" (I'm not sure if this is the exact title, but it's close). Google books actually has scanned images of the book that describe how to make the masterbars. Alternatively, his book is half-off from the Taunton site -- around $10 before shipping.

The basic idea is to align three screws along a length of a piece of plywood or mdf. There is a process used by machinists to accomplish this. It's cheap and relatively simple -- can be a LOT cheaper depending on how long of a straight edge you need.

These would be useful mostly for aligning machinery. If you need a straight-edge that gives a reference along the entire edge, then these won't do.

Good luck!
Gil

[glenn bradley]

6) The Veritas 36"er is 5/8 thick and 1/4 thick at 24" (same as Woodpecker at 24").

Small correction, no biggie. LV 36" is 3/8" thick ;-) Its already heavy enough, at 5/8" it would be a weapon.

[Alan Lilly]

Obviously a longer straightedge is better, but how long is long enough to setup say... the grizzly 8" jointer with 75" bed?

Is a 36" edge sufficient or would you guys recommend a 48"?

[Steven Bolton]

To add to Alan's questions, would you get steel or aluminum?

SB

[John Michael]

Personally I would say 48" steel for setting up machines. I personally own a few but my Starrett 48" graduated gets used the most. Aluminum is too easy to knick, scrape, or dent, especially around import catings.

[Doug Hobkirk]

To properly setup WW equipment excluding jointers, does the SE need to be accurate to .001" per foot? More accurate? Less accurate? I am sure jointers are the most demanding tools for SE's, both for accuracy and length. But I don't see what other tools or table-tops require that sort of accuracy.

I am NOT making a claim about this - I am asking a question because I don't know. Thanks!

[Mike Marcade]

Obviously a longer straightedge is better, but how long is long enough to setup say... the grizzly 8" jointer with 75" bed?

Is a 36" edge sufficient or would you guys recommend a 48"?

I would recommend a 48" for a large jointer like that. A good rule is probably 2/3 of the length of the jointer.

[Keith Outten]

The issue of precision comes up regularly around here and it is my opinion that most carry the subject way to far for woodworking. Very few woodworkers have the experience and knowledge to understand a tolerance of 0.001" per foot and I submit that you won't find a piece of wood that would maintain that kind of tolerance. Even if you could machine it that accurately two hours later the dimensions will change. The dimensions of metal will change when the temperature varies by a few degrees, tools used to inspect very high precision parts are calibrated at 60 degrees in a lab and they will be off by some factor when you use them in a shop at 80 degrees.

The average human hair is 0.005" in diameter. Let this be your gauge when thinking about close tolerance work but don't waste your time trying to machine a piece of lumber to these kinds of specifications, it just isn't necessary IMO.

You can try to setup your joiner tables to incredible levels of accuracy if you want to spend the time but your knives won't be sharpened to anywhere near that kind of tolerance. Generally speaking even very high quality woodworking equipment isn't built to these kinds of tolerances. The collet on your router probably has at least 0.012" run-out from the factory.

Save your money, purchase a good straight edge to setup your equipment...something like the EZ Smart guide track that you can use as a tool and it will double as a nice straight edge.

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