Bookcase Design Help

[Skyp Nelson]

I realized when I made the little cabinet for my MIL that my finishing skills were quite lacking. I figured if I came up with a simple project that needed finishing it would give me practice. I have quite a few “cardboard” bookcases in my home, and I figured I’d replaced them with something I made. This would not only give me the practice I need, it would also not be a waste of wood. They would get used, even if I “tanked” the finish. I am confident that I have both the skills, and the tools, (ok, I’ll still find an excuse to buy SOMETHING, or I’ll get banded from this forum :D) to be able to build them. I planned on using face frames because they add strength, and in my opinion, a sense of elegance. I also was going to use dados (I have a stacked set with shims, so using ply wouldn’t cause problems with size) to hold the shelves, seeing how the face frames would hide them. Looking through my pile of WW magazines, I came across plans using plywood. I had planned on using wood (Maple, because both my Mrs., and MIL like the look), but now I am intrigued. Because this is a “learning” project, I of course want to bring it in for the least cost, but want to balance that fact with ease of building, and the worth of keeping the project (no one wants to intentionally build a POS). The two MAIN goals of this (these) project(s) are:
1. Practice applying a natural finish (no stain), and
2. Ending up with usable bookcases.
It seems to me now it’s a case of six of one, a half dozen of the other.

The one pro for plywood is I can readily get it locally, but the rough sawn maple I would probably have to wait for a lumber run in mid-spring. With my available shop time, that might be pushing it to get a few made in time for "finishing season"(garage shop in Mich).

What do you guys think?
TIA

[Todd Bin]

I am not exactly clear on the question. But, easy finishes to appy are:

1. OIL namely WATCO. You just wipe it on, wait a few minutes and wipe it off. scuff sand with 220 betwwen coats and put on 6 coats for maximum depth of finish. Then wax. This will give a matt to satin finish -no shine. (You need to wait about 24 hours betwwen coats.)

2. WIPING VARNISH. I use General Finishes. One coat of Seal-a-Cell and three or 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal. Same as before. Wipe on, wait a minute and wipe off. scuff sand with 220 or use 0000 steel wool and put on the next coat. don't forget to wipe the dust off. In this case you can go from gloss down to matt.

3. SHELLAC. Again you can wipe it on (Most people spray) and try to avoid overlap in the wipes. THis stuff dries really fast and you can get several coats in a day. finish with wax.

The Wiping Varnish is the most durable finish. If you do decide to stain the maple make sure you use a gel stain to avoid blotches.

[Mike Cutler]

Quote:
Skyp Nelson

"I realized when I made the little cabinet for my MIL that my finishing skills were quite lacking.
I figured if I came up with a simple project that needed finishing it would give me practice. I have quite a few “cardboard” bookcases in my home, and I figured I’d replaced them with something I made.

This would not only give me the practice I need, it would also not be a waste of wood. They would get used, even if I “tanked” the finish. I am confident that I have both the skills, and the tools, (Ok, I’ll still find an excuse to buy SOMETHING, or I’ll get banded from this forum ) to be able to build them.

I planned on using face frames because they add strength, and in my opinion, a sense of elegance. I also was going to use dados (I have a stacked set with shims, so using ply wouldn’t cause problems with size) to hold the shelves, seeing how the face frames would hide them.

Looking through my pile of WW magazines, I came across plans using plywood. I had planned on using wood (Maple, because both my Mrs., and MIL like the look), but now I am intrigued. Because this is a “learning” project, I of course want to bring it in for the least cost, but want to balance that fact with ease of building, and the worth of keeping the project (no one wants to intentionally build a POS). The two MAIN goals of this (these) project(s) are:
1. Practice applying a natural finish (no stain), and
2. Ending up with usable bookcases.
It seems to me now it’s a case of six of one, a half dozen of the other.

The one pro for plywood is I can readily get it locally, but the rough sawn maple I would probably have to wait for a lumber run in mid-spring. With my available shop time, that might be pushing it to get a few made in time for "finishing season"(garage shop in Mich).

What do you guys think?
TIA"


Skyp.

The face frames are a good idea. It will make everything look nicer.
There shouldn't be any problems using a dado joint for the shelf. The dado can be shallow because the required strength is underside edge of each shelf.
Todd gave you some really good advice on finishing. The first two metods are virtually foolproof,which is good for me:eek:, and leave a great finish. The Wiping varnishes can be a little more temperature sensetive that Watco's Danish Oil

If you follow the magazines plans, and use The Watco's. I believe that you'll end up with a very nice set of shelves.

I apologize for restructuring your post. I was having trouble keeping all of your thoughts seperate.

Mike

[Ken Shoemaker]

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=72199

I just finished a bookcase for my daughter. I had the same fear of finish you did. BLO and General Finishes ARM-R-SEAL came out great...

Trust me, this combination will make the untrained eye think your a master finisher. Of course something else in the shop will keep you humble...:rolleyes:

Good Luck....

[Skyp Nelson]

I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear. The OP was wheither to use plywood or rough sawn lumber to build the bookcases.
THX

[Paul Girouard]

I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear. The OP was wheither to use plywood or rough sawn lumber to build the bookcases.
THX



So rough sawn , as in , not planed wood? Or solid stock , as in, lumber over plywood?

I wrote a long post to this one , SOOOOOOOOOOO long the forum timed out by the time I posted it and my post was LOST:rolleyes: :D


I'd use plywood for the case C-2 Maple 3/4" with a 1/4" back.

For the styles and rails , & self edge on the shelfs and what not, I'd use Maple lumber planed smooth.

So what really is your question? :confused: :)

[Mike Cutler]

I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear. The OP was wheither to use plywood or rough sawn lumber to build the bookcases.
THX

I think a nice plywood case with solid maple face frames would look fine.

[Joe Chritz]

A frame and panel book case looks very nice.

I have attached a horrible picture (better snap and shoot digital got stepped on by a horse, long story) but this case is raised panel sides on exposed and plywood on non-exposed. I used metal shelf tracks set in dados for shelf supports and oak banded plywood shelves.

You will have to properly attached the tops, bottoms and any fixed shelves. Only glue or attach to the stiles and not the panel.

You could also build a false panel to go on the outside over plywood. Any questions ask someone here is always willing to answer.

ETA: If you plan on doing anything beside clear finish on maple do some searching on blotching. Basically use a thing coat of dewaxed shellac prior to any stain for much better results.

Joe

[Todd Bin]

Here is a bookcase I built for my dad for Christmas. I used mahogany ply for the sides and shelved the rest is solid mahogny. The finish is one coat of Seal-a-cell with three coats of gloss Arm-R-Seal. I then "sanded" with a brown paper bag to get rid of the dust nibs and waxed it. I think it turned out ok. I was in a rush for Christmas and actually had to put the last coat on at his house.

[Skyp Nelson]

I'm sorry I used the wrong term for lumber as opposed to plywood. Yes, I would join and plane the rough sawn lumber(very rudely rolling his eyes).

[Skyp Nelson]

Yes Mike, I'm lean toward the ply/maple myself. How would *you* handle the top? Lumber or edged ply?

[Paul Girouard]

Yes Mike, I'm lean toward the ply/maple myself. How would *you* handle the top? Lumber or edged ply?



You could / should cover the plywood edge with ;;



#1: Maple edge banding , either iron on or glued on ( egde banding machine required type of hot glue as tape is applied) .

#2: Solid Maple lumber , nailed , or splined & glued on, OR stapled on with a small cabinet staple with the staple ran with the grain. Or about 20 other ways to attach lumber to plywood , choose one.

#3: To leave the plywood core / plys open to the viewer would be either wrong ( my choice, in that I feel it would be the wrong way to do it ) or some sudo "creative" new age , lazy form of Woodworking. IMO . YMMV.

Good luck Eh!