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James Jaragosky
01-05-2008, 2:17 PM
Please introduce yourself.
If you could also put what model machine you have, and how long you have had it That would really help.
My purpose in creating this thread is so we can help support each other, Because as you all know by now, factory support for everyday problems is limited. And there are challenges unique to our machines.
My name is Jim Jaragosky
I have a HX3040
I have had it for about 8 weeks.
I sell stuff I produce through a local craft mall.
As of yesterday I was able to secure a table at the mall for the small fee of $45.00 a month.
currently most of my work is photos in birch
I have tried Borg granite with limited success
I just received my order of lasersketch granite yesterday ( I will post my results after I compare it to the Borg stuff).

I will keep a list of rabbit owners from those that post here.
that way we can pass on tips unique to our machines.
Thanks Jim J.
OK your turn.:)

Arturo Villegas
01-05-2008, 3:30 PM
Great thinking Jim!
I have a HX1290SE 80 Watt.
I have had it for about 8 Months.(4 months non working)
I am still wandering in the dark but leaning on more and more doing High End Architectural Models.
Haven't had too much success with images. Hope more come out of the closet and join us!

David Hirschfield
01-05-2008, 10:05 PM
Hi, I've had mine for close on a year. Do mostly acrylic prefab and photo murals and anything else I can really. Battled a bit with photos at first but seemed to have got the hang of it. Believe it or not, best results have been on black ceramic tile. Have to find the correct type, was just lucky.

I've been lucky because I've been able to to be up and running when I need to be except the last few months when I had the machine stored. Reconnected the water supply backwards and the laser wouldn't fire. Reversed the supply and back in business.

Rabbit has been as helpful as they can be under the circumstances and generally reply quite quickly.

David

James Jaragosky
01-05-2008, 11:30 PM
Hi, I've had mine for close on a year. Do mostly acrylic prefab and photo murals and anything else I can really. Battled a bit with photos at first but seemed to have got the hang of it. Believe it or not, best results have been on black ceramic tile. Have to find the correct type, was just lucky.

I've been lucky because I've been able to to be up and running when I need to be except the last few months when I had the machine stored. Reconnected the water supply backwards and the laser wouldn't fire. Reversed the supply and back in business.

Rabbit has been as helpful as they can be under the circumstances and generally reply quite quickly.

Davidwe really are a small group(so far anyway).
David what type of tile do you use and where do you get them. also settings would be helpful.
I buy birch 6x6 cutouts off e-bay for about 64 cents each.
I want to get some laser bits marble here soon. because so far granite hasn't impressed to many people.

pete hagan
01-06-2008, 12:01 AM
I've got a HX6090SE since May 2007.
Small minor issues but had the machine operational within a day of uncrating the beast. Machine has paid for itself already and I'm still finding different things to do with it.

Used my rotary attachement for the first time last month and made Christmas gifts for clients and friends. The guys LOVED the custom engraved bourbon glasses and pilsner glasses. Kids loved the acrylic ornaments and insect puzzles. (THANKS LASER BUZZ!) And now I'm working on an entire room of engraved millwork for a friend / client's new office library at his house. A combination of cnc milling and laser detailed work.

I use CorelX3, Crappy LaserCut 50, MasterCam, Solidworks and Illustrator SC2 (?) for my software. Looking at the LaserBuzz Collection as Tom was very nice to help out with some samples for my elementary class.

How about setting up a forum just for the Rabbit people? There are actually quite a few out there.

Pete

David Hirschfield
01-06-2008, 3:19 AM
we really are a small group(so far anyway).
David what type of tile do you use and where do you get them. also settings would be helpful.
I buy birch 6x6 cutouts off e-bay for about 64 cents each.
I want to get some laser bits marble here soon. because so far granite hasn't impressed to many people.

I found a spanish tile. It has a matte finish without a gloss glaze applied. If you look at the back or edge of the tile you will see a white glazing applied under the black surface glaze. This results in a white mark when lasered. I don't have my settings with me but it is quite slow..about 90 power, 120 speed. I sometimes fill with white acrylic too to enhance.

Bob Keyes
01-06-2008, 10:14 AM
James,

I don't own a "Rabbit", but I have one of, if not the original Chinese laser on the group. It is marketed by Ink Express. I have had it for over 2 years. Run it every day about 6 hours each day. I really like it.

I have about $5k in it sitting in my floor and operating. It is a 60 watt.

I run everything you can imagine. From pens to ivory to crystal, wood, plastic, and everything in between.

My software is even more elementary than yours, but it is quite sufficient. I do everything in Corel X3. I size it and color it in Corel. Save as .plt. Pull that file into the laser and engrave or cut. It is really quite efficient.

Personally, I like having the floating head and start point. Just seems more flexible than being tied to a home position. Just me I guess.

Anyway, I have over 2 years with the Chinese machine. If I can be of help let me know.

James Jaragosky
01-06-2008, 10:40 AM
James,

I don't own a "Rabbit", but I have one of, if not the original Chinese laser on the group. It is marketed by Ink Express. I have had it for over 2 years. Run it every day about 6 hours each day. I really like it.

I have about $5k in it sitting in my floor and operating. It is a 60 watt.

I run everything you can imagine. From pens to ivory to crystal, wood, plastic, and everything in between.

My software is even more elementary than yours, but it is quite sufficient. I do everything in Corel X3. I size it and color it in Corel. Save as .plt. Pull that file into the laser and engrave or cut. It is really quite efficient.

Personally, I like having the floating head and start point. Just seems more flexible than being tied to a home position. Just me I guess.

Anyway, I have over 2 years with the Chinese machine. If I can be of help let me know.
Your help is certainly welcome here. Thanks for chiming in. and I now know to call it a floating head. Sweet, see this thread has benefits already. lol.
Yes, I will most definitely be in touch thank you for the offer.
jim j.

Eric Fuller
01-06-2008, 12:52 PM
*redacted*

I don't own one yet, but expect to in a few months unless David talks me out of it when I check out his Epilog machines. Course, he's have to not only talk me out of it, but also write me a large supplemental check ;)

Scott Shepherd
01-06-2008, 1:07 PM
Why do you need a dedicated forum for rabbit owners? There's not a dedicated forum for GCC, Epilog, Universal, Trotec, or anyone else.

Eric Fuller
01-06-2008, 1:32 PM
Why do you need a dedicated forum for rabbit owners? There's not a dedicated forum for GCC, Epilog, Universal, Trotec, or anyone else.

Heh, because from what I have read, Rabbit owners face some unique "challanges" shall we say getting and keeping their machines running. I could be way off tho. Just idle speculation on my part...

James Jaragosky
01-06-2008, 3:14 PM
Heh, because from what I have read, Rabbit owners face some unique "challanges" shall we say getting and keeping their machines running. I could be way off tho. Just idle speculation on my part...

Well my original idea was just to compile a list of rabbit owners, but all the off brands are welcome to chime in and join my list. Like I have stated above the purpose is to share information and support on our machines. To answers Scott's question, why we are in need of special help. The short answer is, we donít have the local support that the domestic brands offer their owners. As far as having a separate forum I donít know if that is necessary. Because some of the stuff we may share might be of use to others as well. Also with the contributors getting their own perks here shortly I think this might be perceived as something else pulling us apart. And I truly do not want that. This community is unique and works well as it is. Although I think I remember a join a group option in the profile interface page. I will check it out maybe something like that might help us out. Any way right now I would just like to get as many people with off brand lasers on a master list, please state if you are ok with me sharing your info with other saw mill creek members with off brand equipment. I will only use it on smc and only by pm.
Thanks jim j

Eric Fuller
01-06-2008, 4:26 PM
Very good points all of them James. Seems like if we got enough people together, a fairly good support network could evolve.
Just realized my previous comments were likely inappropriate to be posting on someone elses forum, so I will edit.

Jim Dornon
01-07-2008, 7:34 AM
Well I started out with a HX6090, but it kept blowing power supply's when I would cut. Nice machine, wish I still had.
Sent it back and now I have an HX3040. Having a hard time with the software (newlydraw). Thr software X,Y of 0,0 is 92 mm different than the actual cutting table on the machine ! Took a while to figure that out. The quality of the 3040 is not as good as the 6090, rather cheap. The waster cooling consist of placing a fish tank pump in a bucket of Distilled water. It works. But at this point I have to work with what I have. Tech support is almost non exsistant. I usually go thriugh Frank here in the US. He does the best he can I guess. Any one know a way around the dongle (usb key) ? I agree all Rabbit owners can help eachother. I know I have found many people on this fantastic forum who are eager to help. Thank you to all of you. Jim;)

James Jaragosky
01-07-2008, 11:20 AM
Well I started out with a HX6090, but it kept blowing power supply's when I would cut. Nice machine, wish I still had.
Sent it back and now I have an HX3040. Having a hard time with the software (newlydraw). The software X,Y of 0,0 is 92 mm different than the actual cutting table on the machine ! Took a while to figure that out. The quality of the 3040 is not as good as the 6090, rather cheap. The waster cooling consist of placing a fish tank pump in a bucket of Distilled water. It works. But at this point I have to work with what I have. Tech support is almost non exisistant. I usually go through Frank here in the US. He does the best he can I guess. Any one know a way around the dongle (usb key) ? I agree all Rabbit owners can help each other. I know I have found many people on this fantastic forum who are eager to help. Thank you to all of you. Jim;) Jim it would not be legal for us to post how to circumvent the dongle. like i have read about on the web after Googleing about it.
JIM J.

David Hirschfield
01-08-2008, 2:36 AM
Heh, because from what I have read, Rabbit owners face some unique "challanges" shall we say getting and keeping their machines running. I could be way off tho. Just idle speculation on my part...

Do you believe everything you read Eric? My "unique challenge" is deciding what to do with the extra $20 000 I didn't spend on my laser. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have as much "idle" time as you do.

This is a thread genuinely meant for owners of Rabbit machines to help each other. Owners of other machines are welcome to chime in constructively or even start their own thread. I believe there is a little button at the top of the page for that.

James Jaragosky
01-08-2008, 3:05 AM
Please gentleman letís keep it on the civil side. And remember sometimes things in a post may not sound as intended, or as they might have in a face to face conversation.
Please letís not get the thread closed and ruin a well intended endeavor.
It would seem that not many have joined us here yet, but this could take a few weeks before this thread gets noticed by others. In the mean time thanks for signing in. I will be in touch.
Jim j.

Eric Fuller
01-08-2008, 8:48 AM
HI David,

Wow, didn't mean to hit a nerve there! To clarify, I'm not a tool snob, and I'm not bashing chinese lasers or their machinery in general. I don't even own a laser yet, but will be purchasing one in the next month or so. I've been researching the options and will likely buy an 80W Rabbit.
I've read a ton of posts about users who had problems, and fully expect to have to tweak mine when I get it. Fact is the Chinese machines aren't plug and play like an Epilog, but then again I can simply write a check for the Rabbit instead of having to finance the US made one.

Don't shoot! I'm on your side! :D

James Jaragosky
01-08-2008, 10:36 AM
HI David,

I've read a ton of posts about users who had problems, and fully expect to have to tweak mine when I get it. Fact is the Chinese machines aren't plug and play like an Epilog, but then again I can simply write a check for the Rabbit instead of having to finance the US made one.

Don't shoot! I'm on your side! :D
Eric, i have had my rabbit a little over two months now and it was easy to set up and ran from the first flip of the switch. i really have had no laser hardware problems Except the stock exhaust fan that came with mine is inadequate when Cutting products that produce a lot of smoke, so i got a blower from harbor freight and all is well now. my main issues were never havening operated a laser previously i was sorely lacking in training and support. thats when i found this site, and what a blessing that day was.
my rabbit has run at least 6 days a week 5 hours a day since i got it, and i have no issues with performance. i do dread the day something major goes wrong. that is why i am trying to compile a list of others with similar machines, so we can act as support for each other. whatever machine you decide to choose i wish you luck and if that machine is a rabbit or some other non domestic brand please join this list and we will be glad to have you.
Jim J.

Eric Fuller
01-08-2008, 7:17 PM
Thanks James, nice to hear a success story. I wonder what the relative number of people who have problems is...seems like the Chinese likely do a pretty decent volume, but the only threads you read here are cries for help. Seems there could be a silent majority who are trouble free.

Bob Keyes
01-09-2008, 4:55 PM
I'm trouble free now for over 2 years. I like it.

James Jaragosky
01-10-2008, 11:19 PM
In the past I have had hit and miss success rastering the back of mirrors
Today I took a hint from the thread about engraving glass.
I was only doing a simple rose on a mirror (Ill attach the file)
And decided to use the walnut setting suggested for photograV.
Lol, well I screwed up and forgot to use the walnut setting
And wound up using the default leather setting
I processed it in photograv at 400dpi,
I then rastered it at 87% power and 300 speed
And it turned out perfect I had no real cleanup of the back.
Usually I have to scrub the back with Windex and a soft brass brush to clean the etched lines.
This time, nothing to clean noda. and the cloth with the Windex was virtually clean as well.
I would show a photo but it was a rush job and it is out the door already. But I will try to replicate my successes.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/jrj5x5/zrosebunchENG.jpg

Dan Hintz
01-11-2008, 8:39 AM
It is supposed to arrive next week, but my eBay blue light special appears to be a Rabbit HX40A (despite the vendor calling it an ArtCut M40)... at a shipped price of just over $1,300, how could I say no? :D

I expect to have some minor issues with beating NewlyDraw into submission, but I have several items I intend to work on. Once I get the system working to my satisfaction, I intend to break the machine down and rebuild it on a larger table (already have the new slides picked out). Next will be some air assist tools and a vacuum table. I'm thinking a laser pointer would be nice, so probably some new optics holders.

And I fully intend to dump the dongle, just need to spend some time with the software logic analyzer. If it proves too troublesome, I'll completely replace the drivers and go with Mach3 ;)

Scott Shepherd
01-11-2008, 10:09 AM
I intend to break the machine down and rebuild it on a larger table (already have the new slides picked out). Next will be some air assist tools and a vacuum table. I'm thinking a laser pointer would be nice, so probably some new optics holders.

And I fully intend to dump the dongle, just need to spend some time with the software logic analyzer. If it proves too troublesome, I'll completely replace the drivers and go with Mach3 ;)

Of course then it won't be a Rabbit, it'll be a Jackalope :D (if you don't know what a Jackalope is, google it and look at the "Images" tab at the top of google).

Levi Chanowitz
01-11-2008, 11:38 AM
I have a Rabbit HX6090SE 60W and other than replacing the pump, which never worked and the power supply which blew when I was cutting 3/" acrylic, and small piece that goes into the computer peverything is fine. It took a few months to set up, mostly because I dont speak Chinese, and we needed to figure out what was wrong.

Once in a while we have a software glitch.

I wish I would figure out a way to use it to full capacity.

Did anyone replace their tube yet?

James Jaragosky
01-11-2008, 1:01 PM
It is supposed to arrive next week, but my eBay blue light special appears to be a Rabbit HX40A (despite the vendor calling it an ArtCut M40)... at a shipped price of just over $1,300, how could I say no? :D

I expect to have some minor issues with beating NewlyDraw into submission,
we wish you luck with your setup. $1300 is very cheap I now feel like a fool. Mine was $1850 before the shipping and extra tube and lenses.
About newelydraw. not much to beat into submission there, it is little more than a print driver. You will need to do all your file manipulation with some other program like Corel. and then send it to newelydraw. beating Corel into submission has been my challenge, i have used adobe cs in the past and i am havening a hard time figuring out corel's layering and matting system, just seems to have a few more steps that necessary.
but adobe was a animal to learn in the beginning for me as well.
Welcome to the dark side:rolleyes: lol.
jim j.

Dan Hintz
01-11-2008, 1:15 PM
Fast as fast can be, you'll never catch meeeee!

Dan Hintz
01-11-2008, 1:34 PM
James,

I got pretty lucky on the price, I'll gladly admit. The guy who was selling them has been placing auctions at quite regular intervals of 2 days apart, always ending somewhere between 6-8 p.m. EST when many are home from work. Final price was usually in the $1,300 range (+$150 for shipping). This particular auction happened to be shortly after New Year's and ended in the middle of the workday. I placed a bid during the last few moments of the auction and pulled it out for $1,160 (give or take). Right place at the right time. I intend to use it as shipped for a little while, but my intent form the beginning was to get a base to work with... determine how the pieces fit together on a real machine and then make improvements.

Are you limited to what version of Corel you use, as I've seen in other posts?

Were it possible, I thought many would have dumped NewlyDraw and gone with Mach3 as the driver... since I have yet to see a person do that, I'm assuming there is some NewlyDraw-specific protocol on the Chinese motor control boards that has not yet been copied. I'll verify once the machine comes in and I have time to play (next century?), but I would like to make my upgrades in small increments due to time concerns. As it stands, it appears I'll have to go with complete replacement driver hardware if I want to swap over to using Mach3.

In my younger days I would have grabbed some beef jerky, a huge jar of Jelly Bellys, and spent the next 3 months sleeping only 20 hrs/week writing a complete GUI from scratch to control the thing. In my more advanced years, however, I can't swing that while working 50-60 hour work weeks, home improvement projects (such as a new workshop!), running the home business, and still finding time for the family. I love the challenge, but I still need my sleep.

I've even considered a low-cost replacement to PhotoGrav (most of my job background and education is in image processing), as the algorithms used are dead simple to recreate. With some suggestions from fellow cutters as to what speed, power, etc. are required for certain materials, I could easily recreate the app (and put a 10x better interface to it ;)). But that's a discussion for another thread and another day.

Jim Galbraith
01-20-2008, 11:05 AM
Hi Guys,

I'm new to Sawmill. :) I've got a Rabbit HX1290SE 80 watt. At this time I've just got the laser up and running, and the LaserCut 50 software up and running individually but am trying to figure how to make the computer talk to the machine. (can't run files)

I've been looking at your posts and believe there's a lot of knowledge here to be shared! Hopefully when I'm up and running I can share as well in order to help out.

Jim Galbraith

James Jaragosky
01-20-2008, 1:00 PM
Hi Guys,

I'm new to Sawmill. :) I've got a Rabbit HX1290SE 80 watt. At this time I've just got the laser up and running, and the LaserCut 50 software up and running individually but am trying to figure how to make the computer talk to the machine. (can't run files)

I've been looking at your posts and believe there's a lot of knowledge here to be shared! Hopefully when I'm up and running I can share as well in order to help out.

Jim Galbraith
Welcome and congratulations on your new laser.
I am sorry i do not have any experience with your software, so my help will be limited.
did you add your laser as a option as a printer under the control panel? some software requires this to be done.
anyway someone here should have a answer for you, that is the great thing about the creek.
jim j

Dean Novakowski
01-20-2008, 2:03 PM
Jim.. On the laser output.. to send the file to the machine go the the 3rd tab & click download current & this wll send your file to the machine.

Levi Chanowitz
01-20-2008, 5:07 PM
Is there new software for the Rabbit? I have Laser Cut and Engrave Dsp4

Dean Novakowski
01-22-2008, 2:30 PM
Levi, we are working with a company to develop a new print driver for our company. (we have exclusive contract) Should have something soon to start some testing.

Levi Chanowitz
01-22-2008, 3:01 PM
First of all I was at your website http://www.the-lasersedge.com/Video.html. I think that all non believers should go on your website they will get a glimpse of our Chinese machine.

when you say "we" who do you mean?
How will the new program be an improvement over the old one?
When will this be ready/
How much will it cost?

Dean Novakowski
01-22-2008, 7:43 PM
Levi
When I said we.. That means Our company. The-Laser's Edge
How will this be better than lasercut?
It will be a completly new laser output option. Couple things would be:
Where you will be able to select Power /Speed for Vector & Raster as well as dpi & ppi.
Speed and Power will be in percentages. unlike speed is now
Also there is support for alot more programs. Including CorelDraw x3
When will it be ready? By the end of March
How much? TBA Depends on final development costs.. guess would be around $500
after final production- we will ship with new machines.

Shell Glen
10-15-2008, 7:05 PM
hi guys
My name is Michelle and i live in England
I have a Hx40 a
I have had it for 4-5 weeks
I make miniatures for dollhouses and thought a laser would take away lots of manual cutting etc boy i was so wrong. but thanks to the very nice gentleman who started this thread i am finally able to cut. the software newlydraw that came with it is very basic but so frustrating to use as it has chinese symbols instead of english the UK supplier are not much help either, so this forum is a godsend to me, i am not very good with the laser at the moment but learning slowly and becoming more confident. looks like my laser cut miniatures are going to be a while in the making.
Hugs
Michelle
UK:o

Levi Chanowitz
10-16-2008, 11:47 AM
I use LaserCut and it is in english and easy to use

Levi Chanowitz
10-16-2008, 11:59 AM
I have 3 problems with my big (around 2' x 3') 60 watt Rabbit HX6090SE

1. when it engraves on the top part of the table (especially on the middle to right side it engraves much lighter and is unacceptable

2. when I draw a rectangle it it out of square

3. when I raster engrave it doesnt do so well with the tiny details

Can someone help me?

Also, Dan & Dean, when will your new software be ready?

James Jaragosky
10-16-2008, 2:22 PM
I have 3 problems with my big (around 2' x 3') 60 watt Rabbit HX6090SE

1. when it engraves on the top part of the table (especially on the middle to right side it engraves much lighter and is unacceptable

2. when I draw a rectangle it it out of square

3. when I raster engrave it doesnt do so well with the tiny details

Can someone help me?



Problems 1 & 2 may be related. Have you ever checked the alignment of your mirrors?

You need the beam to be as close to dead center on all mirrors and the lens, this will get you the best focus and thus the best engraving.

Or it could be your table is not level and your focus changes as your table dips or rises
.
Also check the focal length with problem #3; are you sure you are in your optimum focus range?

Or I might ask what dpi you are using on your photos as that will make a big difference on your details as well.

As for #2; is the burn out of square with the project material, or is the actual burn out of square?
Can you post a picture of this?

James Jaragosky
10-16-2008, 2:40 PM
hi guys
My name is Michelle and i live in England
I have a Hx40 a
I have had it for 4-5 weeks
I make miniatures for dollhouses and thought a laser would take away lots of manual cutting etc boy i was so wrong. but thanks to the very nice gentleman who started this thread I am finally able to cut. the software newlydraw that came with it is very basic but so frustrating to use as it has chinese symbols instead of english the UK supplier are not much help either, so this forum is a godsend to me, i am not very good with the laser at the moment but learning slowly and becoming more confident. looks like my laser cut miniatures are going to be a while in the making.
Hugs
Michelle
UK:o
Michelle I donít know if anyone else has officially welcomed you to the creek? So let me say; Welcome to the SMC. I see you found this old post, so that shows you have found the search function, there is tons of useful archived posts on almost anything you might think of asking regarding your hobby or your new laser.
I am very new to the whole laser thing myself, but I will be glad to try help in any way I can.
If your machine did not come with air assist you will have problems cutting parts for your hobby, as the lens gets dirty fast. Also if youíre not carful the flame-up could burn and damage the lens.
This rabbit / off brand group list idea never took off, it just did not get much interest from many people. Anyway I wish you luck with your new machine.

pete hagan
10-16-2008, 5:49 PM
Levi I have the same machine and have had some similar issues.

Let's start with your first issue.

1. when it engraves on the top part of the table (especially on the middle to right side it engraves much lighter and is unacceptable

This sounds like the beam is out of alignment. It really takes some time to manually align the beam but once you do it will engrave consistently across the entire run of the gantry. USE large tongue depressors or something besides cardboard and paper to align. As you burn cardboard (like it shows on the video) it will off gas through the cardboard onto the mirrors which you then have to clean. Instead just get some large popsicle / tongue depressor sticks and chop down to size. Using masking tape to attach to the mirror and you'll get three or four quick shots with the laser before turning over or replacing the stick. Get the burn as close to centered as possible!

In addition my table (elevated by four screw rods driven by chain and a motor) was not level side to side / front to back. The lower left screw rod was out by three revolutions so I had to remove the chain (dropping the drive motor) level the table and CLAMPING each drive screw so it did not change, then painstakingly replace the chain / motor. You need a helper and it is much easier if you can build up the floor inside the machine so you can lay on your back with your upper body INSIDE the base of the machine. Takes time but will help as well. To tell if your machine is not level simply run the gantry / head to each corner, measure table height to bottom of laser head and compare. You should be within less that .5mm from every point otherwise the engraving , cutting will not be consistent even with a well aligned beam.

2. when I draw a rectangle it out of square

mmmm.. Something is causing the machine to skip "steps". Either the speed is way too fast or there is a loose / broken wire between the controller and the motor. I would first look at the speed issue. The fastest I have successfully run the engraving at is 1050 and not 1200 where I do get poor results. Second I would check the actual screw down connections in the opening on the right side of the machine where all the circuits are located. The wires are crimped onto a small lug and then inserted into a European style connector on each motor controller. I found two broken wires on my motor controllers when the machine was delivered causing intermittent connections that drove me crazy for a couple of hours. I found them by gently wiggling the wires where they are connected in the screw down terminal (green) while I ran a sample on the machine. It was quick from there to fix.

3. when I raster engrave it doesnít do so well with the tiny details

My raster is very good with details. Slow down and really verify you have taken care of the alignment first.

Good Luck.

Pete

Rob Bosworth
10-17-2008, 11:13 AM
IF your rectangle or square is more like a trapezoid, I would guess your X and Y axis is out of square. IF your machine has hard stops, pull the X axis arm towards the hard stops. If both the right and left sides of the X axis arm do not hit the hard stops at the same time, it is out of square. Once you square that arm, you should get squares and rectangles from the mechanical side of your machine.

Levi Chanowitz
10-17-2008, 1:29 PM
Thanks for all your help

When I draw a square on black brass and cut it on my shear, it appears to be out of square, otherwise it is unnoticable. I therefore conclude that it is not a loose wire

Right now I engrave on the front left quarter and it is okay for 99% of what I do. When I get a chance, I will follow up with the suggestions that you made.

I was suprised that you "successfully run the engraving at 1050". The highest that I ever run my machine is 600. I engrave text on black brass at 500 speed and 85 power. This is my most common speed.I use it for engraving text on gold plastic and on lucite. When I originally got my machine and I tried to go faster, it did not work well (lost steps?) It also would engrave a few specks out of the lines of the letters (it still does this some times)

Can someone tell me what they use on these 3 substrates?

Also, Rob Bosworth says "IF your machine has hard stops, pull the X axis arm towards the hard stops." (how) does this apply to our rabbit?

Levi Chanowitz
10-23-2008, 7:41 PM
I just adjusted the beam and it runs 100% better. I also upped the speed to 1000 @ 100% power and it did a super job on gold plastic.

Thanks again

Levi Chanowitz
10-23-2008, 7:48 PM
I just adjusted the beam and it runs 100% better. I also upped the speed to 1000 @ 100% power and it did a super job on gold plastic.

Thanks again

James Jaragosky
10-23-2008, 8:51 PM
I just adjusted the beam and it runs 100% better. I also upped the speed to 1000 @ 100% power and it did a super job on gold plastic.

Thanks again
Glad to hear things are better.
Jim J.

colin booth
02-05-2009, 9:44 AM
hi everyone
just found out about smc!
so im new here, i own 2 chinese machines, 1 is a LS6090 pro which is a 60 watt machine, the other is a LS3040 hobby which is a 40 watt machine, both machines i brought from www.hpclaser.co.uk.
I have since found that they look identical to the rabbit machines so i down loaded a parameters setting sheet from rabbit Hx6090SE machine and have been running my machine at these settings which works fine.
love the 6090 but find the software newlydraw for the 3040 hard to use (help).
i use corel draw 12, photograv 3.0 and lasercut 0.5 on the LS6090 which im very used to.
ive had both machines since april 08 and the small one just sits collecting dust but would love to get it running and earning its keep.:D
so pleased ive found this site and any help would be great.
thanks col
Laserhut.co.uk

colin booth
02-05-2009, 9:50 AM
hi everyone
just found out about smc!
so im new here, i own 2 chinese machines, 1 is a LS6090 pro which is a 60 watt machine, the other is a LS3040 hobby which is a 40 watt machine, both machines i brought from www.hpclaser.co.uk (http://www.hpclaser.co.uk/).
I have since found that they look identical to the rabbit machines so i down loaded a parameters setting sheet from rabbit Hx6090SE machine and have been running my machine at these settings which works fine.
love the 6090 but find the software newlydraw for the 3040 hard to use (help).
i use corel draw 12, photograv 3.0 and lasercut 0.5 on the LS6090 which im very used to.
ive had both machines since april 08 and the small one just sits collecting dust but would love to get it running and earning its keep.:D
so pleased ive found this site and any help would be great.
thanks col
Laserhut.co.uk

Steve Clarkson
02-05-2009, 9:52 AM
Welcome to the Creek Colin!

Levi Chanowitz
02-05-2009, 10:19 AM
I heard that there is a new software coming out for our lasers. Frank probably can tell you where to get it. It is supposed to come out at the end of February and it will cost $400 US. You will be able to engrave directly from CorelDraw

Kris Jones
03-17-2009, 10:40 PM
Hello,

I have the 3040 machine, purchased from HPC laser in the UK. Had it about 6 weeks. Would recommend HPCLASER to anyone thinking of purchasing in the UK - their aftersales support is outstanding!

Having problems getting the laser to cut accurately. A square drawn at 100mm x 100mm in cad cuts at 101mm x 101mm. The same object drawn at 250mm x 250mm cuts at 252.5mm. The discrepency seems to be the same whether imported via DXF or drawn directly in newlydraw. The variation is the same in both X & Y axes.

Have tensioned belts and aligned mirrors, but suspect this is a software issue. Any ideas guys?

Kris

Dan Hintz
03-18-2009, 7:55 AM
There should be a setting for adjustments like that, usually given as a mulitiplier.... look for something in the setup pages that shows a "1.000" and try tweaking it to 1.010.

Levi Chanowitz
03-18-2009, 10:33 AM
I own a rabbit and I was sure that there is a setting in LaserCut, but I cant find it now, however you can adjust it when you export a .plt from cdr just click on the page tab. It will come up when you export

Kris Jones
03-18-2009, 5:18 PM
Not trying to be a smarta$$, but if the after-sale support is so great, shouldn't they be able to resolve any problems with a new machine?

There should be a setting for adjustments like that, usually given as a mulitiplier.... look for something in the setup pages that shows a "1.000" and try tweaking it to 1.010.

Dan,

I was thinking something along those lines, but couldn't see anything obvious - bloody newlydraw! I shall look a bit deeper.

I meant outstanding in terms of coming out to my location to fix broken tubes etc. Was pleased with the way they looked after me. I doubt I would've got any support long-distance from the manufacturer!

Cheers mate.

Alexa Ristow
03-20-2009, 5:07 AM
Hi fellow Rabbit Owners,
I have a Rabbit 6090 SE 60W. Air Assist , Lasercut 5.1 but use Corel X3. I mostly cut 3mm to 10 MM acrylic, 3 mm MDf and various thicknesses of paper for gift shops and wedding planners. Most of what I know has come from trial and error and reading back the last 250 pages of SMC threads over the last 6 months.

I have a question regarding the frequency settings on my glass tubed machine. Presently, it is set at " 20 000" . Many threads talk about changing frequncy and / or PPI to reduce charring. Could someone please confirm for me that changing the frequency from its factory setting will not have a negative effect on the machine? will this have the same effect as changing the PPI settings on the american machines?

Many thanks in advance,

Alexa

Alexa Ristow
03-20-2009, 5:20 AM
Hi fellow Rabbit Owners,
I have a Rabbit 6090 SE 60W. Air Assist , Lasercut 5.1 but use Corel X3. I mostly cut 3mm to 10 MM acrylic, 3 mm MDf and various thicknesses of paper for gift shops and wedding planners. Most of what I know has come from trial and error and reading back the last 250 pages of SMC threads over the last 6 months.

I have a question regarding the frequency settings on my glass tubed machine. Presently, it is set at " 20 000" . Many threads talk about changing frequncy and / or PPI to reduce charring. Could someone please confirm for me that changing the frequency from its factory setting will not have a negative effect on the machine? will this have the same effect as changing the PPI settings on the american machines?

Many thanks in advance,

Alexa

Dan Hintz
03-20-2009, 9:30 AM
Confirmed...

Levi Chanowitz
04-30-2009, 2:08 PM
I have a solution to adjust The output to 100 Percent.
When you export from CorelDraw as a .plt file, a hpgl menu opens.
Click on Page and adjust to whatever percentage you need to reach the correct size. Don't forget to save your preferences.


Did that help?

Levi Chanowitz
04-30-2009, 2:12 PM
Can someone help me?

I have A rabbit with laser engrave and cut system (DSP4.1)
I have 5 problems with mylaser
1. the rectangles are not perfecly square
2. the circle ends do not meet perfectly
3. when I engrave curved lines they are not perfectly curved they are slightly jagged
4. my .bmp files do not engrave anywhere as sharp as my .plt files
5. when I engrave especially thin and small lines, I find that they come out thinner than the actual artwork

Karen Thompson
04-30-2009, 6:49 PM
Hi All,

I have a question (or 2..... OK maybe 3) for any Rabbits out there :D

1: I've been asked to have a go at some stainless steel (I have the thermark) and I wondered what speed and power settings I need to put into LaserCut? I was given some (very) general guidelines for the likes of wood and acrylic from the supplier and I know and appreciate that lasers all act differently but if anyone can point me in the right direction for stainless I would appreciate it.

2: With respect to entering the speed/power settings in LaserCut what is the highest speed setting you can enter (come to think of it..... is the setting you put in for the power entered as a percentage figure same as an epilog etc? If so why is the speed setting not put in as a pecentage?) Sorry, going off on one there:rolleyes:.

Anyway, thanks guys.

Karen

Dan Hintz
04-30-2009, 8:01 PM
Figure on 100P and about 1/3rd of your wattage for speed as a starting point (e.g., a 60W laser would be run at 20S/100P).

Karen Thompson
05-01-2009, 5:26 AM
Thanks Dan - I'll give that a go.

Leon Shreves
05-22-2009, 10:14 AM
Hello group,

I live in the Washington DC area and have just purchased an older "new in the box" M40 from another member of this forum. The machine was delivered a year and a half ago but was never assembled and tested.

I fully expected to do several weeks of messing around with it to get it working. I also expected something expensive might need replacement.

The first issue I had was no power; dead machine. I did all the recommended things on the web to no avail. Finally opened up the power converter. Ooops! One of the 220 volt output wires was not connected. After checking pinouts and resistances I figured out which post to attach it to. Actually it was my second guess. It appears as though the wire was never connected. The binding post was totally open; not screwed in. After that when I plugged it in, the XY axes homed and it was purring. Yipee!

Then i hooked up the laser tube and the water pump. The pump has been totally unreliable so I will replace it. The laser is firing and seems pretty powerful with just 1/10 power set. So maybe the tube has aged well. Another Yippee!

I aligned the mirrors and now have continuity from the tube to lens from the whole range of XY coordinates. The stage adjustments for the mirrors are way crude but I got it to align.

When I hooked up the servomotors and sensors again the X axis wouldn't home. It would just go to the left a little bit regardless of its position. I figured the home switch was stuck and sure enough I felt around under neath the X axis bar and found a flakey little switch. I wiggled it and the XY mechanism worked again. Whew!

I now need to get the software working and check the data communications path. Once that is done I think it will be up and running well. :D

I am going to convert a little office refridgerator I have into a water chiller which should be quiet and efficient at nearly no cost.

I plan on sending the exhaust into a little utility room in my basement which I will then evacuate into my garage with a bathroom fan. My garage will smell but the house will be fine.

I am excited about my new toy and very thankful for how well the thing is coming together. I am also grateful to the seller for how well he kept it in storage and what a nice deal he made me. I probably wouldn't have bought a new one so the deal was a real enabler.

Regards to all,
Leon

James Jaragosky
05-22-2009, 12:04 PM
Hello group,

I live in the Washington DC area and have just purchased an older "new in the box" M40 from another member of this forum. The machine was delivered a year and a half ago but was never assembled and tested.

I fully expected to do several weeks of messing around with it to get it working. I also expected something expensive might need replacement.

The first issue I had was no power; dead machine. I did all the recommended things on the web to no avail. Finally opened up the power converter. Ooops! One of the 220 volt output wires was not connected. After checking pinouts and resistances I figured out which post to attach it to. Actually it was my second guess. It appears as though the wire was never connected. The binding post was totally open; not screwed in. After that when I plugged it in, the XY axes homed and it was purring. Yipee!

Then i hooked up the laser tube and the water pump. The pump has been totally unreliable so I will replace it. The laser is firing and seems pretty powerful with just 1/10 power set. So maybe the tube has aged well. Another Yippee!

I aligned the mirrors and now have continuity from the tube to lens from the whole range of XY coordinates. The stage adjustments for the mirrors are way crude but I got it to align.

When I hooked up the servomotors and sensors again the X axis wouldn't home. It would just go to the left a little bit regardless of its position. I figured the home switch was stuck and sure enough I felt around under neath the X axis bar and found a flakey little switch. I wiggled it and the XY mechanism worked again. Whew!

I now need to get the software working and check the data communications path. Once that is done I think it will be up and running well. :D

I am going to convert a little office refridgerator I have into a water chiller which should be quiet and efficient at nearly no cost.

I plan on sending the exhaust into a little utility room in my basement which I will then evacuate into my garage with a bathroom fan. My garage will smell but the house will be fine.

I am excited about my new toy and very thankful for how well the thing is coming together. I am also grateful to the seller for how well he kept it in storage and what a nice deal he made me. I probably wouldn't have bought a new one so the deal was a real enabler.

Regards to all,
Leon
The Chinese made machines can be a little rough around the edges depending on the manufacturer; some a little more than others.
IT would appear that you have the skill to over come most difficulties you may encounter.
My machine worked right out of the box. and is still going as of this morning.
A few months after I got my Rabbit I also had a power issue but mine was a wire grounding out where it passed through the case from the supply to the tube; there was no grommet and the wire rubbed against the case.
I agree that the lens adjustment is very crude; I modified mine by adding some springs from some old ball point pens. I used the springs and some small flat washers to create back pressure against the mirror plate until I got it aligned then I locked it into place with the two nuts provided.

Welcome to the Creek.

Dan Hintz
05-22-2009, 3:17 PM
Leon,

Glad you made it here... a really good groups of guys/gals. James will be your major host through the trials and tribulations of Asian machine ownership, but most of us will be able to answer machine-generic questions. I'm happy to hear the tube weathered storage well.

James Jaragosky
05-22-2009, 7:47 PM
Leon,

Glad you made it here... a really good groups of guys/gals. James will be your major host through the trials and tribulations of Asian machine ownership, but most of us will be able to answer machine-generic questions. I'm happy to hear the tube weathered storage well.

I may be completely off base here, but do you have the pump plugged into the machine or a wall outlet; I ask because the pump is 220 and it will run on 110 only very poorly the same goes for the exhaust fan.

unless you are running vector cutting for several hours continuously a chiller will not be necessary. I can raster all day long without any problems. Also I am assuming that you do not have air assist, so you will be limited on vector cutting, unless you add air assist you will not need a chiller.
Jim J.

Leon Shreves
05-22-2009, 11:06 PM
James, Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the pump is plugged into the back of the cutter. It has difficulties starting. Once it starts pumping it works fine.

I'll definitely put the chiller lower on my priority list. Your advice makes sense to me. You do touch on a point that was going to be the subject of my next post; air assist. Do you have any suggestions on adding air assist to the M40? I was going to do more reading/research here before asking about air assist, but since you brought it up...;)

Thanks again,
Leon

James Jaragosky
05-22-2009, 11:43 PM
James, Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the pump is plugged into the back of the cutter. It has difficulties starting. Once it starts pumping it works fine.

I'll definitely put the chiller lower on my priority list. Your advice makes sense to me. You do touch on a point that was going to be the subject of my next post; air assist. Do you have any suggestions on adding air assist to the M40? I was going to do more reading/research here before asking about air assist, but since you brought it up...;)

Thanks again,
Leon
Unfortunately I have not had the opportunity to add air assist to my machine. I have a cnc router that allows me to cut everything I need; it also allows me to avoid the the inevitability of adding air to my machine.
I have kicked around some ideas but nothing concrete.
There was talk in one post, about one of the domestic manufactures listing information on how to add air assist to one of their machines; the poster seemed to think he could adapt that information to his machine. I believe it may have been USL laser but I am not certain.

If you do find a way to add air assist please photograph each step and part as well as keeping a list of suppliers and part numbers. There are many people that would be interested in this information.
In fact if you could make it a kit with instructions, you could clean up on fleabay.
Jim J.

Zachery Thomas
05-23-2009, 9:06 AM
Leon,

I have the M40 also and added air assist but it really doesn't seem to help much. I've tried regular shop air (CDA) as well as N2. The problem is the software doesn't allow a slow enough speed for single pass cutting of thicker materials so air assist isn't needed.

Zax.



James, Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the pump is plugged into the back of the cutter. It has difficulties starting. Once it starts pumping it works fine.

I'll definitely put the chiller lower on my priority list. Your advice makes sense to me. You do touch on a point that was going to be the subject of my next post; air assist. Do you have any suggestions on adding air assist to the M40? I was going to do more reading/research here before asking about air assist, but since you brought it up...;)

Thanks again,
Leon

Leon Shreves
05-24-2009, 7:10 PM
Leon,

I have the M40 also and added air assist but it really doesn't seem to help much. I've tried regular shop air (CDA) as well as N2. The problem is the software doesn't allow a slow enough speed for single pass cutting of thicker materials so air assist isn't needed.

Zax.

Hi Zax.

Thanks for the info. How do you do multiple cuts of the same pattern? DO you dupe the cut mark and overlay it?

I am aligning mirrors and trying to get it just right at all positions. Very clumsy set up on the M40 for aligning the optics. The computer talks to the laser just fine, so all functions seem to be operating.

Now I am down to the task of learning Newlydraw. The first problem I am having is trying to orient the XY cartesion plane the way I would like:
X= (-L) (+R); Y =(+ goes to the back) (- comes to the front). I'd like the front left corner to be (0,0). So far, the best I can do is achieve that rotated by 90 degrees clockwise. (0,0) is in the back left corner. I'll keep trying and may post some screenshots with directed questions.

Thanks again,
Leon

Zachery Thomas
05-24-2009, 7:31 PM
Leon,

Yes - you can dupe the cut lines or depending on the job it is sometimes easier to send the job a second time.

I would suggest keeping 0,0 at the back left and having right and front positive. It is possible to set it up the way you want, but I found you can get some strange results with raster engraving.

You can still cut/engrave jobs at any location on the table, just adjust the XY start position on the engrave screen.

Zax.

Leon Shreves
05-25-2009, 2:51 PM
Leon,

Yes - you can dupe the cut lines or depending on the job it is sometimes easier to send the job a second time.

I would suggest keeping 0,0 at the back left and having right and front positive. It is possible to set it up the way you want, but I found you can get some strange results with raster engraving.

You can still cut/engrave jobs at any location on the table, just adjust the XY start position on the engrave screen.

Zax.

Sounds like sage advice wrt the axis orientation. There are better things to learn now.

I found a forum thread that describes converting a similar laser so that it can be controlled with Mach 3. It shows the opto-isolator input for firing the laser. The servo control should be simple for any one who has tried to build a DIY CNC machine. Here is the link:
http://www.routoutcnc.co.uk/Forum/index.php?topic=17.0

I am toying with a hybrid system that would allow for external control as well as the using the Newlydraw raster capabilities. Should be possible with just a couple of multi-gang switches or similar electronic solution.

For now, I'll learn to live with Newlydraw and start learning all the other things I need to know.

Cheers,
Leon

Tom Ravenscroft
06-03-2009, 8:15 PM
Hi Guys

Can you tell me what size files your machines will download from your computer to the laser.

I have a Chinese Golden Laser and I get a memory error if I try to download a file larger than 200mm x 200mm @250DPI which is +-640KB

My bed size is 1540 x 950 mm so this restriction is really annoying. I have been trying to laser ceramic tiles, but would like to be able to do sizes up to 400mm x 400mm at 500DPI

The laser has a memory of 128MB.

I may consider purchasing another machine if I can't get this to work. I am looking at the Atr Sign or Strong machines.

Regards

Tom (From Oz)

James Jaragosky
06-03-2009, 8:53 PM
Hi Guys

Can you tell me what size files your machines will download from your computer to the laser.

I have a Chinese Golden Laser and I get a memory error if I try to download a file larger than 200mm x 200mm @250DPI which is +-640KB

My bed size is 1540 x 950 mm so this restriction is really annoying. I have been trying to laser ceramic tiles, but would like to be able to do sizes up to 400mm x 400mm at 500DPI

The laser has a memory of 128MB.

I may consider purchasing another machine if I can't get this to work. I am looking at the Atr Sign or Strong machines.

Regards

Tom (From Oz)
Tom; That is the problem I have with my rabbit laser. The bed is larger than the software will allow me to print.

Kim Vellore
06-03-2009, 8:59 PM
Hello group,


I plan on sending the exhaust into a little utility room in my basement which I will then evacuate into my garage with a bathroom fan. My garage will smell but the house will be fine.


Regards to all,
Leon

Leon,
The exhaust can be toxic and harmful depending on what you cut. I would spend some time and run a hose to get the exhaust outside the house...

Kim

Zachery Thomas
06-04-2009, 8:39 AM
Can you tell me what size files your machines will download from your computer to the laser.
Tom (From Oz)


Tom, my machine (Artcut M40) doesn't have any limitation on file size.

Obviously the buffer can't take the entire job when doing large bitmap photos or even complex vectors but it doesn't cause any problem. The PC quickly dumps the first portion of the job to the machine and then as the buffer is flushed it slowly transfers the remaining job until finished.

I can continue to use the PC while transferring the job and it doesn't cause any glitches.

Most jobs do fit in the buffer but I have no idea what size it is.

Zax.

Michael Simpson Virgina
06-04-2009, 8:50 AM
Hello group,


I plan on sending the exhaust into a little utility room in my basement which I will then evacuate into my garage with a bathroom fan. My garage will smell but the house will be fine.




Are you out of your mind? You are proablay going to kill every one in your house. The toxic fumes will leak through the floor boards. I can guarantee you basement is not air tight. And if you create even the slightest positive air flow its going to push it though your house.

Just about every single thing you cut or engrave will create a lot of toxic fumes.

Tim Bateson
06-04-2009, 11:17 AM
I plan on sending the exhaust into a little utility room in my basement which I will then evacuate into my garage with a bathroom fan. My garage will smell but the house will be fine.

Other then the obvious observations on this, your bathroom fan will not do the job. A good blower for a laser pulls 300-900CFMs, a bathroom vent pulls only 35-100CFMs. That 100CFMs is a high end you're not likely to find in standard construction, so 35CFM is more likely. Not even close to what is needed.

Leon Shreves
06-05-2009, 12:41 PM
Okey, dokey. Thanks for the feedback!

I am going to vent directly to the outdoors from the m40's fan. I may need to get a booster duct fan and I will be sure to get one with adequate capacity.

Thanks to all that were worried about my sanity. My invisible friend assures me that I am rock solid. :-)

Thanks for the cautionary warnings.

- Leon

Zachery Thomas
06-05-2009, 1:15 PM
Leon,

I have been using the M40's provided 90CFM fan. It vents directly outside, with probably a 3ft duct (length), and after sealing the leaks between the fan enclosure and the machine it works very well.

The exhaust is actually pretty strong, and exits at the 2nd story roof line. I have a duct cap to prevent any air blowing the fumes back. If that makes sense.

I don't have much of an issue with fumes though, as I rarely do acrylic or polymers.

Zax.

Leon Shreves
06-05-2009, 1:44 PM
Thanks Zax for the affirmation. I'll move things a round a bit in my shop to keep the duct length as short as possible.

Since I am in the basement I'll have a 5 or 6 foot rise before I can leave the house foundation. I am concerned that since it'll be at ground level that the fumes may still be dangerous if a window is open near the outlet. I'll give it a try with some benign but smelly stuff to see if it causes problems.

I need to get this hooked up properly so I can continue moving along the learning curve.

Thanks again,
Leon

Tim Bateson
06-05-2009, 1:51 PM
Cut some acrylic. It's a good smell/leakage test.

James Jaragosky
06-05-2009, 2:02 PM
Cut some acrylic. It's a good smell/leakage test.
ZACHERY & LEON
You have not filled out your profiles so I cannot tell where you live.
If you live in a area that get's freezing temperatures, you will need to make adjustments to your ducting to insure that ether the cold air will not back flow into the chamber; or warm up the enclosed chamber prior to fireing the laser. failure to to this can result in the hot beam hitting a cold mirror.
I have had first hand experience with this problem.
Jim J.

Leon Shreves
06-05-2009, 2:34 PM
Cold mirror and hot beam sounds bad. I take it that the flapper valve on the fan was inadequate. Would running the fan for a few minutes before firing the laser draw enough warmer air through the laser to heat the optics?

I was planning to put a dryer vent fixture to exit the wall. This would also have a flapper valve in it.

Other options? Few minutes under an IR lamp?

Thanks for the warning,
Leon

Tim Bateson
06-05-2009, 2:38 PM
I was planning to put a dryer vent fixture to exit the wall. This would also have a flapper valve in it.


Some of those light weight aluminum dryer vents work good on dryers, but I got a lot of fumes from those leaky joints. I went through 2 of them & a lot of duct tape (an attempt to seal the adjustable joints every few inches) finally switch to solid PVC pipe - no more leaks.

James Jaragosky
06-05-2009, 5:56 PM
Cold mirror and hot beam sounds bad. I take it that the flapper valve on the fan was inadequate. Would running the fan for a few minutes before firing the laser draw enough warmer air through the laser to heat the optics?

I was planning to put a dryer vent fixture to exit the wall. This would also have a flapper valve in it.

Other options? Few minutes under an IR lamp?

Thanks for the warning,
Leon
Flappers will help, keeping the machine higher than the exhaust outlet will help; as cold tends to collect at the lowest point. I purchased a low profile heater for $15 at the wally world; I run it for about 5 minutes inside the cavity with the lid down. everything gets nice and evenly warm.

And thanks for updating your profile:).
Jim J.

Stuart Orrell
06-26-2009, 6:31 AM
Hi fellow Rabbit Owners,
I have a Rabbit 6090 SE 60W. Air Assist , Lasercut 5.1 ...........

I have a question regarding the frequency settings on my glass tubed machine. Presently, it is set at " 20 000" . Many threads talk about changing frequncy and / or PPI to reduce charring. Could someone please confirm for me that changing the frequency from its factory setting will not have a negative effect on the machine? will this have the same effect as changing the PPI settings on the american machines?

Many thanks in advance,

Alexa

Hi Alexa,
I have been wondering about the frequency too for these machines. Did you get any replies about this?

I have tried altering the frequency, within Lasercut software, on my machine with Birch ply (laser grade) and didn't see any effect. So, I am wondering if it is a fixed value. I did notice a setting in the CUT parameters for putting a gaps along a vector curve (like perforations), which may amount to the same thing ??? TBD???? Although, I am doubtful about this. I may play around more when I get time........
Look forward to hearing from you.

Levi Chanowitz
08-24-2009, 6:07 PM
(is this the correct place for my question)

I was just adjusting/cleaning my mirrors and I cut out some thin engraving material and I got a shadow around 1/4" away

Dan Hintz
08-25-2009, 7:28 AM
A few usual culprits... check your alignment first. If that's not the issue, your tube and/or supply may be on the way out... I don't believe the small rabbits have adjustable tickle charges, otherwise that would be my next check.

Dave Lock
08-25-2009, 7:56 AM
Sounds like your final alignment is out causing the beam to reflect off the inside of your cone.
Hold a piece of paper/card against the bottom of the cone, test fire laser and note where the burn mark is. Adjust the final mirror until the burn mark is centre of the cone opening.

Levi Chanowitz
08-25-2009, 9:54 AM
I brought my table up and adjusted the beam nozzle. It seems to engrave okay now. I think you were right, it was bouncing off the sides

Zachery Thomas
08-25-2009, 2:11 PM
It sounds like you are getting a secondary beam.

I would check the alignment to the lens (ensure the beam enters the final mirror/lens assembly in the center).

Zax.

Karen Thompson
09-11-2009, 1:12 PM
Hi all,

Can any LS6040 (LaserScript/Rabbit) owners out there answer me a quick question???

When removing the lense (for cleaning) from your machine, you unscrew the cone then pull out the tube holding the lens.

My question is when returning the tube (and cleaned lens) how far up is the tube "supposed" to go as it appears to be adjustable. (Hope this makes sense:rolleyes:). I've watched the DVD and searched t'internet and cannot find anything that gives me a clue....!!

I just posted in the main forum about a photo problem I'm having and I'm wondering if maybe since I did a recent clean of the lens I haven't put the tube containing the lens back properly (I'm probably grasping at straws here:o)

Thanks all once again.

Karen

Levi Chanowitz
09-11-2009, 1:58 PM
approximately .624 in my experience.
Take a popsicle stick and put it on an angle (like a seesaw).
Engrave a line. At the finest point of the line, measure the distance from that part of the stick to the bottom of the nozzle.
Make a piece of plexi this size so you can use it for quick measuring

Did I make myself clear enough?

Dave Lock
09-11-2009, 3:25 PM
Hi all,

Can any LS6040 (LaserScript/Rabbit) owners out there answer me a quick question???

When removing the lense (for cleaning) from your machine, you unscrew the cone then pull out the tube holding the lens.

My question is when returning the tube (and cleaned lens) how far up is the tube "supposed" to go as it appears to be adjustable. (Hope this makes sense:rolleyes:). I've watched the DVD and searched t'internet and cannot find anything that gives me a clue....!!

I just posted in the main forum about a photo problem I'm having and I'm wondering if maybe since I did a recent clean of the lens I haven't put the tube containing the lens back properly (I'm probably grasping at straws here:o)

Thanks all once again.

Karen


Karen,

I think you are referring to how far the tube which holds the lens should be in the outer tube with the locking nut on it. If this is the case it should be as far as possible while still being able to focus with your table at it's highest.
So if slip the tube in as far as will go, don't tighten in yet, raise your table to the highest position, then allow the tube holding the lens to drop down to the position it would be in if you were to focus to cut a piece of paper. Tighten the locking nut/ring at that point.
Doing it this way you will always be able to focus on to the thinnest material.

Levi's suggestion is a good way to find your optimum focus point as an alternative to, or confirming the correct dimension of, your height gauge.

Regards

Dave.

Karen Thompson
09-11-2009, 5:00 PM
As ever, you guys are the best - thank you Levi and Dave.

Dave your interpretation was correct - I wasn't sure I'd explained myself properly:rolleyes:. I had the camera at the ready to post pics with arrows etc etc.....

I will be making the necessary adjustments tomorrow - hopefully this might help cure the photo problem I'm having.

Thank you all once again.

Karen

Levi Chanowitz
09-14-2009, 10:49 AM
what is the story with your new program?

Robert J Duval
09-15-2009, 10:26 AM
I bought a new HX6090SE from Rabbit, Frank Fang. The unit will ship on 9/16/09 I'm not sure if it is US 16th or China's 16th. This machine has the new motion controller and I had the power supply moved from the bottom to one of the sides in the upper cabinet I need to be-able to remove the base, to get it into to my shop.

I really do not know what is different between the old motion controller and the new one. I know that you have to use the 5.3 ver of lase-cut software.

Tom Ravenscroft
09-17-2009, 10:12 AM
Hi

I have just received my Artsign JSM6540H 60W and at work I have used a Golden Laser dual laser 100W/40W. Both these units have glass Chinese tubes.

So far I am quite impreseed. The Artsign has a max engraving speed of 1600mm/sec and autofocus. Bought a water chiller, tool cabinet, blower,, air compressor for air assist and rotary attachement as well. The whole lot cost AU$6500 (US$5330) including customs, delivery with a tail lift, duty the works. Waiting for the electrician to come and wire it up.

Couldn't wait so I did a few trials with it jury rigged and besides a small glitch with 3 missing nuts holding the control panel together, it worked straight out of the box. (It needed a very minor adjustment on the last lens)


I bought it because the Golden Laser is useless for engraving. it cuts fine, but has terrible banding when engraving. I have replaced the caddy bearings and the X-axis motor, but it is stillvery bad.

http://www.artsign.com.cn/Productinfo.asp?mun=Laser (http://www.artsign.com.cn/Productinfo.asp?mun=Laser) Engraving cutting machine&id=252

I specifically want to engrave onto ceramic floor and wall tiles and am using Photgrav. Using the generic tile setting, I have to set my machine paprameter in Photograv as a 12W machine before Photgrav gives me the same power and speed setting that I actualy use and find to be effective.

I am lasering at 100% at a speed of 500mm/sec

Is it correct that a Chinese 60W laser will be the same as a 12W American air cooled laser.

My 60W laser cuts 2mm thick acrylic at 26-27mm/sec. How does that compare to an American air cooled laser.

Regards

Tom

Dan Hintz
09-17-2009, 10:29 AM
Is it correct that a Chinese 60W laser will be the same as a 12W American air cooled laser.

My 60W laser cuts 2mm thick acrylic at 26-27mm/sec. How does that compare to an American air cooled laser.
No, you cannot make that comparison... mostly due to the fact that US tubes are usually more powerful than their listed ratings (by 10-20%), and the Chinese tube variability is all over the place (lack of quality control). There are 60W-listed Chinese tubes that put out 60W (or thereabouts), but that can also vary widely. A 60W-listed US tube usually puts out closer to 65-70W (see mine in my sig). It is certainly possible to get a bum Chinese tube that is severely underpowered... your tube seems a bit slow at 1"/sec for that thickness, but it also depends upon the quality of edge you want.

John Barton
09-25-2009, 4:44 AM
I have a no name 60w Chinese laser in China.

We use Laser Cut 5.1 with the CorelPlugin

I am currently having huge problems with large format pieces.

Basically my power surges as the bed gets farther to the right and it seems that no matter what I do I can't get the bed to stay level so I have focus problem the farther right it goes.

Lastly the laser is just slower than it used to be. Everything takes twice as long and more power to do.

On top of all that I can't install the Laser Cut on my Laptop which means I am stuck with the Chinese version on the computer that runs the machine. I had it on my laptop before, laptop crashed, and after a reformat and new disk drive Laser cut and the Corel Plugin will not install.

You would think that being in China, with Chinese speaking people to call and talk to the laser people we would be able to resolve these issues but alas it's hasn't been that way.

Last month we replaced the tube and have gone through one lens already.

I would be highly grateful for any help from other Chinese laser owners in solving any of these problems. I dearly miss my ULS that we have in the States.

Dave Lock
09-25-2009, 1:00 PM
Hi John,

When you say you can't get the bed to stay level, how far out does it move.
If you can measure from the x-axis beam down the the top of your table at both ends, how much difference is there.

If you can, take a close up picture at the nut assembly at the top of one of the threaded lifting bars and post it here.

If it's similar to my Rabbit Laser there are some screws around the top flange which screw into, and secure the top nut. These are used to fine tune the bed height. If the screws are missing the nut could turn which could account for what is happening.

These screws pass through a curved slot which provide the adjustment range. You would normally slacken these and turn the nut to raise or lower the table and re-tighten.

The picture may help to identify the problem.

Regards

Dave.

John Barton
09-28-2009, 3:58 AM
Hi John,

When you say you can't get the bed to stay level, how far out does it move.
If you can measure from the x-axis beam down the the top of your table at both ends, how much difference is there.

If you can, take a close up picture at the nut assembly at the top of one of the threaded lifting bars and post it here.

If it's similar to my Rabbit Laser there are some screws around the top flange which screw into, and secure the top nut. These are used to fine tune the bed height. If the screws are missing the nut could turn which could account for what is happening.

These screws pass through a curved slot which provide the adjustment range. You would normally slacken these and turn the nut to raise or lower the table and re-tighten.

The picture may help to identify the problem.

Regards

Dave.

It's not that I can't get it to stay level. It's that they delivered it unlevel and it's been that way ever since. It's wavy across the surface, high and low throughout the bed.

I think that your Rabbit is several steps above my no-name local "hack-job Lasers" company provided us. I got underneath it the other day with the guy from the machine shop across the street. It looks like they took aluminum window frame material and bolted them together haphazradly with wood screws and L-brackets. It looks as if there were no attempt at all to square any part to any other part. The aluminum is screwed to the lifter nuts with no way to adjust anything.

Basically what they did is put a piece of something over the top of this poorly built frame and then put a metal honeycomb bed on top of that. But the honey comb is flexible and it picks up all the high and low spots of what it's sitting on.

There is no way to adjust the underlying bed without taking the whole thing apart and squaring it up. :-(

So, the machine shop is building me a new adjustable bed. This should solve the focus problem.

Now if I can solve the power loss problem I will be really happy.

Thanks for the advice - I will keep you up to date on what's going on.

John

Levi Chanowitz
12-07-2009, 6:51 PM
Dave, or anyone else that can help me.

i have a 60 watt Rabbit that is close to 36" wide

Ever since I bought my laser, wheneve I engrave a rectangle, it come out like a parallelogram. It is off only by around 1/4 of a degree but it can be annoying. Can anyone tell me how to adjust it

Curt Heggemeyer
02-12-2010, 10:30 AM
I just bought a used 60 watt laser here a few months ago and so far I really like it, looked at Epilog but couldnt see spending that much right now for it. Mine is a 9060 model and love the size of it. Can engrave gun stock by putting the whole gun right in the machine.

Look forward in seeing more china laser users on here.

Thanks,
Curt

James Jaragosky
02-12-2010, 4:38 PM
I just bought a used 60 watt laser here a few months ago and so far I really like it, looked at Epilog but couldnt see spending that much right now for it. Mine is a 9060 model and love the size of it. Can engrave gun stock by putting the whole gun right in the machine.

Look forward in seeing more china laser users on here.

Thanks,
Curt
Welcome Curt, Glad you like your new machine.

Michael Oswald
02-20-2010, 7:35 PM
Hello everyone. I have a King Rabbit 9060 80W. I have owned this for only about a month and this is my first laser engraver. I am still making my way through this thread but I have found this site to be extremely helpful thus far. And I need this help since I am jumping into this on my own without much personal experience. I also bought a Rabbit plotter as a secondary piece of equipment for my start up business. I did about of year of research before I got into this but I plan to hit the local market here and already have a lot lined up. Just need to learn the ins and outs of the machine now. It will take time as this is only a very part time thing for me as I have a great job doing CAD for a steel rule die company. Looking forward to getting to know everyone and helping out where I can as I get more experience. Happy engraving everyone!
Thanks,
Ozzie

James Jaragosky
02-20-2010, 9:59 PM
Hello everyone. I have a King Rabbit 9060 80W. I have owned this for only about a month and this is my first laser engraver. I am still making my way through this thread but I have found this site to be extremely helpful thus far. And I need this help since I am jumping into this on my own without much personal experience. I also bought a Rabbit plotter as a secondary piece of equipment for my start up business. I did about of year of research before I got into this but I plan to hit the local market here and already have a lot lined up. Just need to learn the ins and outs of the machine now. It will take time as this is only a very part time thing for me as I have a great job doing CAD for a steel rule die company. Looking forward to getting to know everyone and helping out where I can as I get more experience. Happy engraving everyone!
Thanks,
Ozzie
Welcome Ozzie. Good luck with the new hobby

salim nirjhor
05-12-2010, 4:43 AM
hello james.
remember me? its Nirjhor from Bangladesh. here i'm to give u a link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1420737#poststop
check it
happy to say that its on the way.
soon i'll b listed at rabbit owner list. pls comment anything at that post.
wish u also with me.
--------------------nirjhor

James Jaragosky
05-12-2010, 5:07 PM
hello james.
remember me? its Nirjhor from Bangladesh. here i'm to give u a link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1420737#poststop
check it
happy to say that its on the way.
soon i'll b listed at rabbit owner list. pls comment anything at that post.
wish u also with me.
--------------------nirjhor
Nirjhor, yes I remember you well. I am happy to hear that you are finely getting your laser delivered.
I have purchased two Rabbit lasers. Both have been delivered without a problem.

Linda Smith Alabama
06-12-2010, 8:31 PM
I bought a 9060 60-watt used, it's a 2008 model. I've had it a month. I've had several issues that I think must be software related. Since reinstalling the driver and software the last time, cutting at 100% power is very weak. I discovered today that it is more powerful at 50% power than it is at 100%! :eek: Trying the same vector cut with the same settings except reducing power by 10 from 100 the power got stronger and stronger each time until it got to 50 and then it started to reduce again. So... apparently 50% is my highest power. Go figure! :rolleyes:

I have the white dongle and can run Lasercut 5.1 and 5.3. I have them both installed, as well as the CorelDraw driver. My controller is an MPC03-LV. The driver on the disc (and every driver i've found online) are for an MPC03-LS, driver version 1.0.0.0 dated 2004. Does anyone know of an updated driver or one that is specifically for the MPC03-LV?

Levi Chanowitz
08-12-2010, 6:23 PM
I have a rabbit 6090 for the past 3 years and I am pretty happy with it
However, when I have a problem, I am on my own.

I usually do the setup in Corel Draw, export it as a plt and then engrave it

I have an order for 10 plaques that needs the logo done in greyscale engraved on black aluminum
I spent many hours yesterday and did not get anywhere.
Either the grey comes out to light, or it comes out in large dots.

I need to show a good sample of the logo by tomorrow or Monday or I lose the job.

Can someone help me convert my logo to a proper greyscale?

I will pay you for your work

Neville Stewart
09-27-2010, 3:36 PM
Hello everyone, thought I'd chime in . I got a Weike Chinese laser 34"x24" bed with a 100 watt tube. It seems to run well but I have to learn Corel & Lasercut 5.3. I'm so used to positioning on the bed of a cnc table, I'm having a little bit of a time wrapping my mind around this. More difficult than I would have imagined, but I've only had it for a few hours, so I cant complain. I've cut & engraved some acrylic & mdf. If cutting 1/4 in Acryl. I just drew a rectangle and went with default settings, I know I can change the power & speed, but in my case I just hit the button once, then a second time to go through material. I presume I can tell it how many passes to make so when I find the ideal P&S it will make the requisite abmount of passes to cut through?? Can I use Aspire to draw vectors, export to Corel , into Lasercut and off we go? Reason is I have lots & lots of vector files in Aspire, and I dont know how to manipulate them directly in Corel yet ( BTW I have X3 ) SO please be prepared for some dumb questions from me but on the oher hand I'll be glad to share my CNC knowledge - All the best Dubliner - Neville

Levi Chanowitz
09-27-2010, 4:26 PM
I dont know aspire, but try to export it as a .plt and try!

Neville Stewart
09-27-2010, 6:28 PM
Levi, sent you a pm.

Michael Kowalczyk
09-27-2010, 7:55 PM
Hey James,
I had a rabbit several years ago. It cut pretty good the variety of materials I put in it. Then I got a second one that was a little different from the first one but did equally as well with the variety of materials I put in the unit. Then after a while I noticed that I was not getting the same efficiency I was before. Thought maybe it was a power problem so i separated them for a while. By isolating them I was able to find out the problem.

Then one morning I went to see if they were running more efficient after loading a variety of material in each of them and my eyes went like this :eek:. I finally figured out the problem. Rabbits are very efficient at one thing. Making more rabbits. Yes you guessed it. The 2nd rabbit was a female and my 1st rabbit was a male. I was young and naive. Just needed a forum like this so I could of asked the important ?'s before I dove into it. :rolleyes: I would have learned how to pick a 2nd rabbit so I could maintain efficiency.

So the moral to the story is never make an important decision with out consulting this forum for anything. Someone has most likely experienced it already and is willing to share.:D

Dan Hintz
09-27-2010, 8:54 PM
At least your laser makes a good stew...

Robert Walters
09-27-2010, 9:38 PM
At least your laser makes a good stew...

Waser engwaved wabbits?

Peter Odell
11-01-2010, 8:19 PM
I just ordered a 1290 / 80 watt will be here in 2 weeks can't wait until it gets here

Bea Prince
11-15-2010, 12:48 PM
Dear all,

I don't even know where to start:)
I have a JQ 4030 from Jinan Laser (http://www.jqlaser.com/products/productdetail_52.html) with 60W power.
I think you are fed up with beginners always asking for help but I need help too:) When I'm reading about your knowledge on this forum I'm wondering if it was a good idea to buy the machine without any knowledge. I bought the machine 4 months ago and I want to learn it as much as possible before I work with it in my business.
My current problem is with engraving photos. I'm a beginner in Photoshop too and maybe that's why I can't figure out where I'm doing wrong. I use Corel Photoshop, 1 Touch Laser Photo and LaserCut 5.3. So if the photo has a quite good quality I proceed it in 1 Touch Laser Photo for ex. for wood. On the attached photo you can see the sky behind the elephant. When I engrave it only the elephant is engraved the sky behind him it's not and the photo better looks like a graphic but a photo. I have the same problem on black granite too. The smaller details aren't engraved. I use the parameters advised by the manufacturer (for ex. for wood: speed: 600, power 40 %, scan gap: 0,06-0,15) You can see attached the original photo, the after 1 Touch Laser Photo and the engraved one.
Maybe this all will sound as a stupid question for you and I'm sure it's all about settings but I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I hope I gave you every needed detail. Thank you in advanced for you all.

PS: Please forgive me for my poor English, I'm from Hungary.

Cory Damon
12-05-2010, 11:46 PM
New Rabbit 1290 coming in two to three weeks. Thank you to everyone who has posted on this thread and others, your insight has helped me make this decision with confidence.

Excited! :D
Cory

samay kohli
01-18-2011, 5:23 PM
Hi, i am obviously new to this forum and new to laser cutting :)

Could anybody help me decide between a RABBIT HX-1290SE (80W) and a JCUT-1290 (80W) they both seem to have the same laser power & table size but the cost for the machines and replacement laser differ drastically ( by $1000 ) ( is one of them ripping me off )! also rabbit says that there lasers give 1500 hrs run time whereas Jcut is saying there's give 2500 Hrs. Could previous buyers quote how much they paid for these machines ( excluding taxes and shipping costs please) .

Also does a 80 W Laser require a chiller unit ? I am being told to buy one for $300 extra by the manufacturer. ( is it required and if required are the Chinese ones worth it ? I heard others on this forum say that they don't actually cool )

What is a Honeycomb bed ? Who needs it ? and how much does it usually cost ?

Do these machines already come with air assist ( they are providing the air compressors so is that for air assist ? )

Lastly , i have read some places that the JCUT has a very sturdy body ( thick metal etc ) can the same be said for the Rabbit/HX laser ?

Sorry loads of questions, i just got these doubts after reading some 8 posts X 8 pages (avg )

Samay
Soon to be the proud owner of a Chinese laser cutter

Levi Chanowitz
01-18-2011, 5:28 PM
Rabbit is probably just as good and sturdy as j-cut
I have a 60 watt rabbit and do not have a cooler
My rabbit comes with air assist, I am sure that yours also does.
who do you speak to at Rabbit?

samay kohli
01-18-2011, 5:34 PM
Thanks for the quick reply Levi,

Thats what they told me that you don't need a chiller for a 60W laser but need it for a 80W laser.




who do you speak to at Rabbit?

I spoke to a miss melva. ( do they give discounts ? )

Levi Chanowitz
01-18-2011, 5:49 PM
the first part is definately true!!;)

Peter Odell
01-19-2011, 7:57 AM
I have a Rabbit 80 watt and mine has a chiller it came with the machine and I love it it is very sturdy and well built

Keith Outten
01-19-2011, 8:15 PM
Since everyone who owns a Chinese laser has been invited to join this thread.....
I have an APLazer SN4024 that I recently acquired for my sign shop.

James Jaragosky
01-19-2011, 10:35 PM
Welcome Keith, I look forward to hearing about your experiences with your new laser.

James Jaragosky
01-19-2011, 10:37 PM
My 60 watt Rabbit came with a chiller. Also it is built like a tank.

Levi Chanowitz
01-26-2011, 11:43 PM
I have a HX6090SE 60Wworking table 23ĒX36Ē
Laser cut 5.?
I need help, the tenants that rent the office above me had a flood and my computer including my hard disk go fried!
I cant find my lasercut, can someone send it to me?

Viktor Voroncov
01-29-2011, 8:20 AM
Here is
LaserCutSB1000SetUp
LaserCut_1220 (5.3)
LaserCutSB2006.2.10
LaserCut_53_1290SE
LaserCut5.1
LaserCut5.0

Download from
http://file.karelia.ru/58k9zj/

Levi Chanowitz
01-31-2011, 10:33 AM
Thanks

I got the software

I have the blue soft dog, I dont remember which version of lasercut that I use
I think that the soft dog works with the correct version only
Does anyone know which version it works with?

I installed 5.1, but when I click on th icon it says "Plug in softdog and restart the software"
The soft dog is installed, and the computer recognises it, but it does not start

Dennis Watson
05-11-2013, 8:09 AM
Wonder what happened to James? He is the reason I found this forum searching for Rabbit lazers thru google.

Calvin thompson
05-11-2013, 9:29 PM
Calvin Thompson I got my RL1290 80w in October 2011 it has been very fun and no problems

Dennis Watson
05-12-2013, 9:44 AM
Well the wife let me get my foot in the door for a Rabbit. Im thinking the RL-60-9060 60 watt. What would be the advantage to getting the 80 watt?

I emailed Ray yesterday and asked if I would save enough money by driving to him (800 miles round trip) or letting him deliver. Maybe he will get back to me tomorrow.

Ross Moshinsky
05-12-2013, 10:22 AM
Well the wife let me get my foot in the door for a Rabbit. Im thinking the RL-60-9060 60 watt. What would be the advantage to getting the 80 watt?

I emailed Ray yesterday and asked if I would save enough money by driving to him (800 miles round trip) or letting him deliver. Maybe he will get back to me tomorrow.

Well the RECI tubes (90W) are supposed to be superior build quality and according to Rodne, they still engrave well with an acceptable spot size.

If you're planning on doing a lot of vector cutting, it would be wise to go for 80w+. When it comes to engraving, it depends. If you're engraving acrylic and plastic, it won't make a difference but if you're engraving wood it will. The more power, the faster you can run your machine. With 80W you can probably run close to full speed which is fairly important considering Chinese machines are significantly slower than mainstream machines.

Dennis Watson
05-12-2013, 11:13 AM
Well the RECI tubes (90W) are supposed to be superior build quality and according to Rodne, they still engrave well with an acceptable spot size.


Noob question.
When you say RECI is this a brand of tube that can be bought and put in a Rabbit? I found this. http://www.recilaser.com/en/index.htm

EDIT: Oh you mean this 80W one? http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/laser_RL1290.html (http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/WebShop/LaserTubes.html)

Ross Moshinsky
05-12-2013, 12:06 PM
Yes, RECI is a tube manufacturer that is an upgraded option for Chinese machines. They don't make anything sub 90w but their build quality and beam quality is supposed to be better than the typical glass tube. As a result, it's also supposed to last longer and has a better warranty. There are people with real world experience that can answer if any of that is true but that's what the tube is marketed as.

RECI doesn't make an 80W tube anymore. It's a 90W tube. If Rabbit is selling you an 80W tube, it's probably been sitting in their warehouse for a year plus and you should not accept it. The reality is, their website is probably just a bit out of date and as a result, it's posted at 80W. Rabbit might also call it 80W because once you knock the power down so that you're not stressing the tube, it's closer to 80W than 90W. It's a question you should ask them but I doubt you have much to be concerned about.

Ernie Balch
05-12-2013, 3:42 PM
When I bought my laser Ray said the 80 W RECI tubes usually measured 93 W when delivered maybe they decided to rename the 80 W tube. Mine is 1.5 years old and is still going strong.
ernie

Dennis Watson
05-12-2013, 7:15 PM
Very good explanation. Well looks like I'm upgrading to this. http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/laser_RL1290.html

I haven't compared it with the 60 machine but I think there is a few other upgrades by going to the 80.

Dennis Watson
05-12-2013, 7:24 PM
Good explanation. Well looks like you guys have talked me into upgrading. The RL-80-9060 http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/laser_RL9060.html


Double posts. Well I cant see my post except in hybrid view. ??????

Dennis Watson
05-13-2013, 10:59 AM
I sent Ray a email Saturday, how long should I wait. I dont wanna seem pushy.

Ernie Balch
05-13-2013, 12:06 PM
I would call the office, that is the only way I got a quick response. When Ray installed my system I got the impression that he was super busy just trying to keep up. When I bought my system I was surprised to see that the 1290 laser was only slightly more expensive than the smaller frame. Of course it is huge and I had to take it off the base to get through the door but I am glad to have the big stage.

ernie

Dennis Watson
05-25-2013, 9:36 AM
I got a quote from rabbit. Looking over it I noticed my price is without a computer, but their website is really vague if one is included as standard. Maybe its the wording, but to me confusing.
Maybe a out dated web page?


Most-all features are now included as standard...everything you need to get started: Laser Cutter/Engraver, Water cooling pump and tank, Air Pump, Exhaust blower, Lasercut 5.3 software and Software User Manual, Machine operation Manual, Software User Manual, Trouble Shooting Manual, Communication cable, Power cable, Lenses and Laser tube (80 Watts), computer system with LCD monitor, Machine operation Manual, USB Communication cable. Includes a full computer system with all the software you need to have your company up and running in minutes.

Ernie Balch
05-25-2013, 11:32 AM
Mine came with a refirb Dell computer. All I had to do was supply a 220VAC outlet and a copy of Corel Draw. Using metric in LaserCut 5.3 drives me crazy so I draw every thing in X4 then use the LaserCut plugin to download to the laser. I can work in inches in Corel and the plugin converts to metric during the download.

Dennis Watson
05-25-2013, 2:47 PM
Really? Something else that I dont understand is how can a 9060 with a 80 watt tube just be 110 volts?

Dennis Watson
07-09-2013, 11:08 AM
Two different speeds for moving the head from the keypad? I dont know what changes it, but when I go to move the head either in x or y it will be either slow or fast. Or is it after you press "Datum"?

Dennis Watson
07-09-2013, 12:18 PM
Ok I found a bit about this in the lasercut manual. Datum speed and quick speed. I suppose after you tell it to go to datum it automatically goes to quick speed till the machine is turned off.
So I guess its a good thing to do datum each time its turned on.

Ernie Balch
07-10-2013, 8:23 AM
Setting the datum should be called homing the stage. this aligns the software limits to the stage. So you should always do this first after turning on the system. Homing the stage also allows the fast move mode with the arrow keys.

Dennis Watson
07-10-2013, 9:41 AM
Yes, I agree. I am slowly getting there.

I have found a problem with lasercut not showing dashed lines when importing a dxf. I hate the thoughts of creating little short lines.
Any suggestions?

Pete James
07-10-2013, 10:26 AM
Try saving and importing your files in plt format. I have had almost no problems since we began using plt files.

Dennis Watson
07-10-2013, 5:04 PM
What did you export the plt from? I tried it from coreldraw and the dashed lines were still solid.

Dave Sheldrake
07-10-2013, 5:30 PM
RECI recently downlisted their tubes to reflect nominal cutting power rather than peak cutting power.

The W6 for example used to be listed as a 150 now though it's a 130 with the W8 dropping from a 180 to a 150. Same tubes but just the naming convention changed.

Running inside the warranty limits the W2 is an 80 watt and only really exceeds that if you pump it above what RECI recomend.

Ray is doing the right thing listing them as 80's as that is the nominal power people will get from them (makes a change from companies listing peak powers to try and win sales)

best wishes

Dave

HX1290,HX9060,HX1525,HX1525 (80 through 150 watt)

Levi Chanowitz
07-17-2013, 11:36 AM
Try saving and importing your files in plt format. I have had almost no problems since we began using plt files.
I find that when I open the plt file in the LaserCut that the letters do not appear smooth.
Also I need to export the .cdr file at around 101% to get the correct size. If I export it as a .ai file, it looks smoother, but I get a whole slew of problems

Does anyone have any tips for me?

Kalle Pihlajasaari
09-07-2013, 4:46 AM
Hi All,

This is my first (third try, reply-to-thread hides the posts deep in the tread view) post on SMC. I have been reading quite a lot on the various threads and a lot of good stuff. I cut and save bits here and there when I see interesting settings for cutting or marking so I can compare with my own setup later.

A while back I got two used unbranded Chinese lasers and bits for services rendered. We valued the deal at about US$500. One is a very well worn 300mm x 200mm 40W unit that has been used for making rubber stamps I think and is filled with a gritty ash. It powers up and homes and after installing MoshiDraw (USB to parallel converter and orange dongle) and messing about I was able to get it to go through the motions of cutting a box or rastering a small picture. The movement on the X-axis was erratic and after swapping motor leads I isolated the fault to the actual motor. On closer inspection there was a break in the motor wire where it exited the motor housing. I removed the motor and opened the back cover (I did not remove the magnetic rotor just in case the induced magnetism was compromised which can occur in high performance steppers) and after some careful wire splicing I had replaced all the wires (where two were broken and a third almost). After this the motion was smooth and I was happy with the electrics. A house move prevented much more experimenting as it was not able to be set it up in the dining room. I did test fire the laser once (no water connections or mirror cleaning yet) and it charred cardboard at the tube exit as anticipated. The z-axis is a tragic example of a copy of a scissor jack that can never work. It has a little air pipe that will direct smoke away from the beam but pretty rudimentary.

The other is a larger 500mm x 400mm unit that might fit a 40 or 60W tube but had no tube. It also has a different brand of controller that is direct USB and had an empty SD card hidden underneath. It had the protective paper still over the window when I got it and has only a few signs of wear. I think it was a demo unit that was cannibalised for the tube. I do not have a dongle or software for that controller and it ignores MoshiDraw but it homes the bed so all seems well electrically and mechanically. It sadly has a fixed T-slot bed that I want to change as I want to do more than rubber stamps.

In the mean time I purchased a LAOSlaser.org open source laser controller kit (it is a small motherboard that uses an Mbed controller) that will allow me to use the (CUPS) printer driver over an ethernet connection to send raster or vector data from most programs and throw all the Chinese controllers and software away. I have assembled the kit and have been anguishing about the Z-axis problems I have and trying to decide which machine to fix up.

Last week in exchange for hooking up a new HV PSU for a friend with different terminal connections he gave me the old PSU and two old Reci tubes. After dusting off and inspecting the tubes and reassembling the PSU I decided to make up a temporary HV cable and test them. Strangely both work and charred cardboard at the touch of the test button on the PSU. One is a V2 80W tube from 2011 that shows pronounced plasma burning of the bore and the other is a W2 90W tube from 2013 that looks unused. Both tubes were apparently run with tap water and have noticeable crystals in the cooling jacket (a couple of very badly translated sites suggest 20% Hydrochloric acid to clean out lime scale from the water jacket if it is impeding flow I have visible small crystals but it would not obstruct flow at this time, I just don't want the crystals to get stuck in a constriction of a pipe later so will look at cleaning before putting into service). I do not know what power they may have left in them but I plan to make use of them at some point. They were both supposed to be not cutting AND the PSU was supposed to be dead but who am I to complain. I took measurements of the tube housing of my bigger laser and I think I can get about 8mm of side clearance from the outer 80mm diameter glass if I raise the tube about 30mm higher than the 40W tube which will make for very tricky mirror mounts to clear the case when the gantry is in front. I would also have to add a 300+mm turret to the side of the case.

This has spurred me onto getting a laser going. I decided to move the 40W tube from the worn out smaller machine into the clean bigger machine and install my LAOSlaser board and get going. I am thinking that if the LAOS board drives the mecahnics nicely at a good speed and I get an adjustable bed setup I may make a piggyback housing for the 80W tube on the back (I am thinking of a 110mm drain pipe with an angle iron or U channel on the outside to maintain allignement, add a manual lever or rotary solenoid (I have in my junk box) to move the 40W mirror out of the way and switch tubes from the dashboard. It would let me use a 40/60W tube for engraving and then use a 80/120W tube for cutting. Obviously I would have to get a bigger machine soon after that but it might be a good temporary way to get used to the technology.

So that is my laser hobby in a big nutshell and hope you are all having fun with your gear.

Kalle
--
Johannesburg, South Africa

1 x 5040 Rabbit - 40W
1 x LAOSlaser controller
2 x 80W Reci tubes
1 x 80W PSU
1 x spare 3020 Rabbit - no tube
2 x spare 40W PSUs untested

Mike Null
09-07-2013, 6:37 AM
Kalle

Welcome to Sawmll Creek. You are certainly ambitious and fearless as well. Good luck!

And, after reading your second post in another thread, quite competent.

Brian Robison
09-10-2013, 11:05 PM
Hi gang, I got a 1290 in today, I'm going to be asking a ton of questions until I get up to speed.
I'll need to do a lot of reading. I'm used to my little Epilog and this is a whole different kind of machine.
I do a lot of engraving that uses greyscale and I'm not sure I can do that with this machine. Any one
have experience with it?

Ernie Balch
09-11-2013, 9:45 AM
The rabbit wil not use gray scale directly, it will only handle 1 bit B&W. You can use the Gold method with dithering to achieve reasonable grayscale results in most cases.

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 10:20 AM
I've been using a method Rodney put on here from years ago.
I never took mine over to the photo program but I may need to
now.

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 10:23 AM
How is everyone dealing with no positive stop, 0,0 point on the machine?????

Dave Sheldrake
09-11-2013, 10:57 AM
Use incremental mode Brian rather than absolute, the home position by default is top right, the 0,0 position is bottom left (never made much sense to me to do it that way but that's the way it is) top right has limit switches (mechanical or electronic) that it homes to and then steps in by a pre-defined amount (usually 10/10 x/y).

A small cross hair on the workpiece template can be used to align the head when using incremental mode to ensure location.

cheers

Dave

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 12:00 PM
Guys, I am totally lost today. Ray worked so hard to get the thing going at he didn't have a lot of time for training. I made some notes but I missed some crucial things. Like getting the job from the lasercut software to the machine...... DOH. I feel like an idiot!
The manual doesn't seem to be helping me a lot.
Dave, you mentioned incremental mode vs absolute for example, I have no idea where that would be.

Dave Sheldrake
09-11-2013, 12:07 PM
Gimme about 20 minutes Brian I'll get something written up and posted with pics :)

cheers

Dave

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 12:27 PM
Thank you Dave....Please LOL

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 2:21 PM
I got it going, I had to restart the software and I didn't remember that I had to save the drawing first.
Baby steps....

Ernie Balch
09-11-2013, 2:27 PM
I use the rabbit print driver in Corel X4. That way all the drawing info is saved in Corel and you don't have to deal with LaserCut's limited feature set.

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 2:33 PM
So your not having to go to the LaserCut software?

Dave Sheldrake
09-11-2013, 2:39 PM
I have pics :)

Ok...how far have you gotten Brian?

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 2:45 PM
I've gotten it running, next is seeing if I can make a good 0,0 area for the machine.
I need to do precision stuff and I need hard stops. I need to play with speeds, power
and scan gap.
I will also need to work on getting photo quality stuff to run.....

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 2:46 PM
I am now making a bunch of notes.

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 4:47 PM
How are you all handling the lack of positive stops in the corners?

Dave Sheldrake
09-11-2013, 5:06 PM
Everything is either relative to the bottom left corner Brian or if you select "Immediate" it is all relative to the laser heads current position.

On one of mine I have a L shaped piece of 10mm acrylic at the top left to use as a start point (you can reset where the laser considers its start point)

270725

On the above you will see a blue dot in the upper left part of the drawing, that's my start point in immediate mode.

cheers

Dave

Ernie Balch
09-11-2013, 7:15 PM
You can install the laserCut driver in Corel so you draw objects in Corel, assign a color and hairline width with no fill. Click the LaserCut icon and the printer driver pops up. You assign the process parameters to each color, engrave or cut and then set the scan gap, speed and power %. You also can set the origin position relative to your objects. I have modified my laser pointer to be vertical and located 28mm to the left of the CO2 beam. Aligning used to drive me crazy because the angled beam moved diagonally when you changed focus and I could never be sure where it was relative to the CO2 laser beam.

Brian Robison
09-11-2013, 9:29 PM
OK, this sounds interesting to me. This way I'm not going through another program, correct?
What version of Corel do I need and where do I get the driver plug-in?
I use V12 but I have X5 also if needed.

Ernie Balch
09-12-2013, 7:33 AM
Go to the rabbitlaserusa site and download the corel draw instructions under "manuals-N-Tutorials" All the info is on that site.

Vicki Rivrud
09-13-2013, 6:45 PM
Gimme about 20 minutes Brian I'll get something written up and posted with pics :)

cheers

Dave
Dave, you mentioned incremental mode vs absolute for example, I have no idea where that would be.

Hiya Dave,
You've got me scratchin' my head too. Which software are you referring to? Look forward to you explanation on this one.

Vicki

Brian Robison
09-13-2013, 10:21 PM
Go to the rabbitlaserusa site and download the corel draw instructions under "manuals-N-Tutorials" All the info is on that site.
Walks me through up to the icon being at the top of the Corel page. Then what?
I think I'm just missing some crucial info somewhere.

Dave Sheldrake
09-14-2013, 4:39 AM
Incremental mode = starts from where the laser head is (immediate)

Absolute mode = starts from a known reference point (moves are relative to the blue dot on the screen)

On a cnc the difference between G90 and G91

cheers

Dave

Doug Novic
09-14-2013, 10:11 AM
Vicki, incremental mode is measured from the current machine's position which with our software would be the "immediate" setting. Absolute always starts at the machines 0,0 setting and in our software the "immediate" box is unchecked. It seems that Dave has some good experience programming CNC equipment. Brian, 0,0 is always the front left on these machines which also corresponds with the exact corner of the metal angle supporting our honeycomb grids.

Ernie Balch
09-14-2013, 1:55 PM
I could be wrong but I didn't see any difference between having immediate checked or unchecked. I would like to have an absolute mode on the laser but I have only been able to use a relative mode where the "blue diamond" location in the artwork defines the start point and is relative to the current head position.

ernie

Allen Rawley
09-14-2013, 10:31 PM
Hello,

For the home setting at 0,0 you can either make a change to the software configuration file, or physically move the limit switches on each axis.

Water pumps in buckets are common in China, and they do not have an issue with the quality. The CW3000 is rather inexpensive and you can pick one up on eBay. Over the years, I have sold them and find they are reliable.

What is the benefit to bypass a newlydraw dongle? Is it that you want a better control software/hardware? I have the newlydraw and Moshe and Lasercut dongles and find that the Lasercut is by far the best of the three.

Brian Robison
09-15-2013, 8:25 PM
I don't mean to offend anyone here so sorry in advance if I do.
The 0,0 seems to be an approximate since there is no hard stops.
There is no way now to pick up a plaque for example and re place
it in the same spot.
The Epilog allows you to calibrate the machine to the 0,0 where the
rulers are. I need exact placement. I did figure out that I can draw a
box in LaserCut and put my artwork in and THEN I can move the artwork
to an exact spot. I then have to erase the box I've drawn.
I just now need hard positive stops for my 0,0 and I'll probably use the
laser to cut a "square" to have my artwork where I want.

Dennis Watson
09-16-2013, 8:17 AM
No, you do not have to erase your box. I found this out yesterday myself. Draw your box, then make it a color of its own, which will create a new layer in lasercut. Then go to that layer where you set you speed and power and uncheck the output.
That way the blue diamond on the screen stays on the back corner of your box.
If you press "test" it will follow around your box, but when you press "start" it will go do your work only.

Dennis Watson
09-16-2013, 8:40 AM
Brian, I was doing this 3D puzzle when I discovered that I could use the same box outline over and over and it not cut it. This also goes back to my warped ply thread and how to hold it down.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5348/9772392153_ea31cb3f72_o.jpg

Dennis Watson
09-16-2013, 8:44 AM
I couldn't figure out why the Rabbit does not have a floor in the bottom cabinet so I built one out of 3/4 plywood.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5346/9772391803_e538b2393a_o.jpg

Also I added a led strip light in the lid for more light. The nice thing about it is very light.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3677/9772392023_c760c3df0b_o.jpg

Mike Null
09-16-2013, 8:55 AM
Looks like two very good ideas.

What does the backside of your puzzle look like?

Dennis Watson
09-16-2013, 10:53 AM
You already know.:D What do you think about applying application tape first?

Mike Null
09-16-2013, 11:06 AM
Dennis

I am in favor of using an elevated cutting grid to minimize smoke and charring and screws and washers with wing nuts to hold the piece flat. Application tape will help but my experience is that a grid is essential.

Brian Robison
09-16-2013, 5:05 PM
I am making my positive stops and I will include pictures.

Dave Sheldrake
09-16-2013, 5:44 PM
but my experience is that a grid is essential.

Very much so, trapped smoke can cause unexpected flashovers unless you can eliminate ANY air gap between the sheets but that is close to impossible.

cheers

Dave

Peter Meacham
09-18-2013, 8:43 PM
Has anyone figured how to use the roller type rotary with the Rabbit control software (Lasercut 5.2). I am trying to engrave a 10.3" x 5.4" design on a wine bottle that is 13.5" in circumference. (Apparently, the design is too large to attach to this thread).

I don't know how to set up the software to do the engraving. I did change the Y-axis Pulse Unit to 0.018238 under Machine Options as directed by the instructions Ray Scott left with me last December.

The rotary does move the wine bottle, but does not engrave properly - all scrunched up and in one spot.

I know this is not much information to go on, but I can answer questions about my settings, etc and I can even follow directions if someone could provide some suggestions pls

Dave Sheldrake
09-18-2013, 8:56 PM
After changing the pulse unit did you hit "download CFG" ?

cheers

Dave

Peter Meacham
09-18-2013, 9:14 PM
Dave, I don't see that as a selection. There is a save button and I suspect that does the same function as download CFG.

Dave Sheldrake
09-18-2013, 9:34 PM
Hiya Peter,

On the right hand side you have "Download", click that then on the left of the box that pops up you have "Download CFG"

"Save" in machine options just saves the settings in LaserCut but won't actually change the way the machine runs.

271187

That sends the new settings to the machine, when you swap back simply do the reverse or your Y axis will be miles out :)

cheers

Dave

Peter Meacham
09-18-2013, 10:41 PM
Oh, quite clever those Chinese. Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

Hey Dave, When I download the CFG file to the engraver - that is what shows up on the engraver control panel, the CFG file.

Do I then download the file to be engraved to the engraver and the CFG file is still resident on the engraver or does it get overwritten by the file to be engraved? Because I tried that and the results were not any different - that is, the image is still not being engraved correctly.

Brian Robison
06-12-2014, 11:55 AM
Hi Gang, anyone around?
My Epilog gives me a darker mark in stainless than the rabbit.
Epilog is about 11 years old and 25 watt.
Rabbit is 6 months old and 80 watt.
Epilog is at 300 dpi, Rabbit at 600 dpi.

Dan Hintz
06-12-2014, 3:55 PM
Focal ability...

David Somers
06-12-2014, 4:03 PM
Dan,

So Brian's problem would be a function of the lens optic and the beam quality (size and shape) from the tube? I assume a better lens would help possibly, and far more expensively a different manufacturer of tube?

Hope you are doing great Dan!!

Dave

Dan Hintz
06-12-2014, 7:43 PM
In a nutshell, yes... though to be honest, I didn't expect such a marked difference in power density between a 25W RF and an 80W DC. It sounds like there's room for improvement with the DC setup.

Dave Sheldrake
06-12-2014, 8:06 PM
Lots of room Dan, rise times on Chinese DC is terrible, pulse rate isn't much better as standard. Get into the SLC and suchlike from GSI though and they easily outperform most of the western RF units but at £20,000 for a 200 watt unit they damwell should :)

On a profiler the difference between RF and Chinese DC is worlds apart, RF are much closer to single mode where are even the better RECI etc DC tubes are are multimode :(

It pretty much works out that a 40 watt good RF will outperform an average Chinese 80 watt easily.

cheers

Dave

David Somers
06-12-2014, 9:56 PM
Thanks Dave!

That was interesting, and adds more thoughts to ponder on while I wait to buy something.

Actually, I should be cussing you for adding more thoughts to ponder!!! <friendly grin>

Dave

Dan Hintz
06-13-2014, 7:21 AM
I included mode in my "focal ability" answer (well, in my mind I did ;) ), but I hadn't considered pulse rate for this. I simply figured without a TEM00 beam (DC tube), the ability to get a sharp focal point (i.e., high power density) was severely reduced. Still, at 80W I would have figured on the sheer raw power would be enough to heat the area enough, the "pixel" would merely be oversized/blurry.

Bert Kemp
09-01-2014, 7:43 PM
Now that I'm close to becoming a Rabbit Owner this thread seams to have died:confused: Just my luck.:(

Bert Kemp
12-23-2016, 12:32 PM
does anyone use this thread anymore?