Router Bit Spacing....

[Jim O'Dell]

Well, I'm still working on my router table. I need to decide how I should space the bits in the 2 drawers. I know it depends on the size of the bits, and door cutters, when I get some, require a larger spacing than regular bits. But how much space do you allow around bits? 1" between? Or do you drill the holes in a regular pattern, and leave empty ones around the bigger bits? I'm building a raised platform made out of 1/4" BB ply that I wll drill for the shanks to sit in. Below that I have some pink insulation panels cut for the shanks to sit on so they don't rattle around and make noise. Thanks for any ideas you have! Oh, and pictures are ALWAYS helpful!:D Jim.

[Jim Becker]

How "thick" are your fingers when you're trying to grab a cutter without slicing yourself into ribbons?? ;) :D

[Jim O'Dell]

You asking how fat my fingers are? Or how thin the skin is on them?? :D:D Jim.

[Jim Becker]

Yes................. ;)

[Jim O'Dell]

Fingers aren't particularly fat, but are somewhat clumsy. :rolleyes: I've been cutting them lately on the rails and stiles on the router table cabinet when I reach through the opening to do something. So I guess thin skin would apply. :p Jim.

[Joe Chritz]

Somewhere I saw a system that used MDF squares with holes in the center for holding bits. Different size squares for different sized bits.

It allows a lot of flexibility to the drawer and fully able to be changed when needed.

I think I had it in a shop notes type thing somewhere, I will see if I can find it in the morning.

Joe

[Tom Veatch]

Somewhere I saw a system that used MDF squares with holes in the center for holding bits. Different size squares for different sized bits....


http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jsp?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/366.xml

[Ralph Okonieski]

Jim,

Here are a few pics of my router bit setup. The foam (1-1/2 inch thick) is the type used to insulate house walls; it was leftover from another project. The drawers are 5-1/2 inches wide. The rows are spaced 1-1/2 inch apart; the bits are spaced 1 inch apart within the rows.

If I were to "redo", I'd space the rows and bits closer together. The same spacing is used for both 1/4 and 1/2 inch shaft bits.

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks for the ideas! Hopefully others will chime in too.
The link to the modular system is interesting, but I'm hoping for a more finished look. thus the 1/4" BB ply that I've cut. This part will come out of the drawer with a little effort, so if I decide to change later, nothing is set in stone, so to speak.
Ralph, I like that you have labled each slot. I had thought I would do something similar. Trying to think of something that would be changeable if I decided to move a bit to a different spot, but no ideas there yet. Avery labels on the computer and just cover up the old one may be all I need to do in that case. I suspect straight pins could be used in a set up like yours to hold the label to the foam, then moved very easily if one needed to.
Have a good weekend all! Jim.

[Joe Chritz]

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jsp?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/366.xml



Thats the one. Either your memory is good, you have great organization or you googlefu is strong.

I plan on using this system since I want to be able to add shaper cutters to them as well and it would be easy to make them oversize and add a 3/4 dowel.

On an unrelated note I just picked up a Katana Shaper cutter, matched set for bead and cove rail/stile. Anyone know a good heart doctor?

Joe

[Jim O'Dell]

There are some good ideas presented here. I appreciate all the comments and pictures. I decided I wanted to keep a wood look to the drawers, so ruled out using foam inserts, either home made, or the ones that Rockler sells. ( http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6064) I had about decided to order the Lee Valley holders from a comment on another forum,
(http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,46168,50736&p=50697 ) and they really look like they would work great, but I'm not sure how well I could mount them to the 1/4" thick drawer bottoms already in my drawers. If I had planned ahead far enough, I could have substituted 1/2 or 3/4" for the bottoms of these 2 drawers, but alas, that is not the case.:rolleyes:

One other suggestion was to use grommets or bushings. I found both on McMaster-Carr. I really liked the bushings, but at 3 bucks each, I don't think so. If they had been packages of 10 or 15, I might have gone that route. So I went out this am and looked at rubber grommets to make sure how the bits would fit in them, if they would slide or not, and they seem to be fine. Came back to the house and ordered 1 package each of the 1/4" ID and 1/2" ID rubber grommets from McMaster-Carr. 50 per package. 16.02 plus shipping. That's a price I'm happy with!
Thanks again for the ideas. Jim.

[Jim O'Dell]

Well, I got the grommets in from McMaster-Carr today. After work I drilled some holes and installed some. Missed the Jasada template bit until I saw the 3rd picture below. Oh well, easy to add another row of holes.
The first picture is laying out the rows. I marked the tape the drilled them out of the drill press. 79410
Second one is of the bits in their holders.79411
And the last is of the drawer in the cabinet.79412
I think this will work well. I may not need the third drawer for router bits. Unless I go nuts one of these days :rolleyes:, or double up on some of these, maybe in another brand to try.
Thanks again for all the suggestions. The thought process, even the ones made with tongues firmly planted in cheeks, really do help me think things through. And for that I am thankful! Jim.

[Steve Clardy]

Hey. Table and accessories are looking great Jim

[Jon Bonham]

Jim,

Here are a few pics of my router bit setup. The foam (1-1/2 inch thick) is the type used to insulate house walls; it was leftover from another project. The drawers are 5-1/2 inches wide. The rows are spaced 1-1/2 inch apart; the bits are spaced 1 inch apart within the rows.

If I were to "redo", I'd space the rows and bits closer together. The same spacing is used for both 1/4 and 1/2 inch shaft bits.

You are so organized you're making my stomach hurt. :D