Pm66 & mobile base??'s

[Jim Solomon]

After hoisting my DJ 20 up and onto it's mobile base I am ready to tackle my PM66. But I just noticed something and wondered how others handled it. My saw base is open underneath. Although this is a brand new saw, it is 20 years old, so maybe it is not common with newer saws. Should I install a plate under the saw; on the mobile base's pads? I do not see how dust collection would be anything close to decent with the base being open.
I have some 18ga. galvanized sheet left over from the cyclone I built. Would this be sufficent? Or should I use plywood?
How did you all handle this? Oh, one more question for now. I'll ahve to make the extension table(saw has 54" fence) is it connected to the saw? Or just the fence rails? If it is to be connected to the saw I have to drill through the cast iron extension table. Did you all do it this way? Or are the rail screws sufficent?
Jim
Inreference to my two 20 year NOS tools, here is my original thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71986 page two is a few pics before I cleaned them up. I am waiting for powermatic to send me the hardware kit for the Biesemyer fence, which they are doing free of charge:D

[Jim Solomon]

Just a friendly bump, so my questions don't get buried on page xxx:D

[Dave MacArthur]

i have an 89 pm66, same issue--also, the dc port blocks it sitting on a current pm66 mobile base! Its too low. looking for my thread on this...I used plywood under.

[Dave MacArthur]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=58363&highlight=pm66+mobile+base
"PM66 and mobile base..."

[Jim Solomon]

i have an 89 pm66, same issue--also, the dc port blocks it sitting on a current pm66 mobile base! Its too low. looking for my thread on this...I used plywood under.
Dave did the plywood raise it enough for the dust port to clear the base? If so what thickness did you use? 3/4" ? I really do not want to cut a hole in this saw. It is 20 years old, but it was never used. It still had the cosmolene on the top when I got it, so for me it is essentialy brand new. If the plywood does not raise it enough I suppose I'll return the base back to Amazon. Someone at PM or whoever manufactures this base for them should have had a heads up on this issue by now. I suppose you and me where the only ones with this problem, I haven't found any posts on it other then ours. Let me know what plywood size you used(thickness) and if it solved the problem. Thank's for the reply!
Jim

[Michael Lutz]

My newer PM 66 (2003) has a sheet metal bottom and the dust port is high enough to miss the mobile base bar.

On mine saw I only attached the extension table to the fence faces since the extension table did not have predrilled holes. The question is how substantial is your extension table going to be? If it can solidly span between the rails you will be fine. Do you have legs for the end of the extension table?

Mike

[Jim Solomon]

My newer PM 66 (2003) has a sheet metal bottom and the dust port is high enough to miss the mobile base bar.

On mine saw I only attached the extension table to the fence faces since the extension table did not have predrilled holes. The question is how substantial is your extension table going to be? If it can solidly span between the rails you will be fine. Do you have legs for the end of the extension table?

Mike
Yes mike I have two Biesemyer legs in Delta grey I picked up for $21.00. I planned on making a torsion box extension table. I would be bolting the fence rails as oppossed to screwing them. I think I'll check with Powermatic and see if I can find the manual for a PM extension table and see how the recommend to fasten in the manual.I wish I would have researched this base and saw combo before I bought. It said it fits all PM66 and PM2000 saws so I assumed it would have fit mine also. I just hate the thought of cutting the original off and installing a new one higher up. Although the saw is 20 yrs. young it has never been used and looks like it came off the showroom floor.
Jim
I Think I will go with a plywood base and bolt all 3 together,base, plywood and saw. I'll have to drill the MB, saw already has holes in the corners.

[Fred Woodward]

You might give HTC a call about the mobile base. They list a PM66 mobile base in several different configurations. They also specifically list one with dust collection configuration.
I will have the same issues when I finish rebuilding my '83 PM66 w 50" CI extension. I was planning to use a HTC base but haven't decided how to handle the DC issue yet. I was thinking of a similar solution as yours with the plywood base bolted to the mobile base and saw.
I used the same solution on a HTC mobile base for my MM16 so I could fully open the lower door without restriction. It was a good fix for the door issue and you can move the MM16 with one finger after releasing the base locks. It is rock solid with the locks engaged.

[Jim Solomon]

I'll try that Fred, thanks for the idea. I exhausted my search for -older PM66+mobile base issues- I have goggled to I am blurry eyed. Apparently the people with this saw either don't have a mobile base or they configured it some other way and did not mention it in a forum.

What really angers me about this whole situation is that this base was advertised as fitting ALL PM 66 and PM 2000 saws to present. I'm sure Powermatic has had calls about this issue.

I'm still debating what to do. I don't like how the base/plywood combo raises the saw higher. If I could figure out a way to use a blade guard collection system like on the new PM 2000 I would make it, or at least attempt to make one. Wonder if the new one would retro fit the old saws. Probaly not. I want to exhaust all my choices before I commit to one. Trouble is there seems to be few people to have this problem or they just don't mention it.

If you run across any ideas for a blade shroud system let me know. That way I could just put a plate inside the saw on the lip above the DC port and open the door and vac out any sawdust that falls there.
Jim

[Jim Solomon]

The base is 2" from the angled plate to the top. I put in 1/2" pw cut to match the angle plate supports and toped it off with 3/4" pw still it wasn't high enough for the dc port to clear. I had a sheet of 1/4" tempered HBO, I cut that and pit it on. I'll live with it, although I am not a happy camper:( For one thing it raised the saw to high for my taste. It may pose a problem with long rips. I didn't expect the dust collection to be great if it had fit the stand. I suppose I'll make a pusher of some sort and as the dust accumulates push it back to the dc port.

I called Amazon and asked about returning it. Since I had already opened the box and put it together I would have had to pay a restocking fee:mad: Not willing to do that I'll learn to live with what I got. I did research this base and all of them where positive so I assume everyone that used it had a newer model saw. Now to clean the mess up in the shop and go about making an extension table. I seem to remember from one of my mag's. a plan for an overhead blade guard/dust collection system. I'll have to search through the index. I have 1/4" Plexiglas and some 1/4' Lucite left over from making fish tanks.
Jim

[John Browne]

Well, my PM66 is a '99 model so it has DC port and a enclosed cab. It's on a PM mobile base.

Could you fasten a thin plate of aluminum to seal in the base and then make a DC port? I realize you don't want to cut your saw (I totally get it) but still, half the point of a cab saw is that you can keep the dust under control.

[James Hart]

I have an 82 PM. I used 1/2" BB fit into the rolling base, then put the saw in on top of it. I used a 4" to 2 1/2" reducer in the dust port. Combined with the 1/2" from the plywood, this sits above the top of the base. Works great.

It will be easier to keep your extension table dead flush with the saw table top if you bolt them where they meet.

JIm

[Dave MacArthur]

I used a 3/4" bottom, sitting on top of 3/4" triangles against the base. The dust port JUST clears, it's tricky to fit the flex hose over it. If I raise it another 1/8th inch, the edges of the mobile base won't be "trapping" it in place.

I also ordered this "PM66 mobile base" from Powermatic, after hours of searching and calling their customer service, (WMH) who assured me that model/part number mobile base would work with my 89 PM66. Any YES, they do know it doesn't work, because I called and emailed them back in Jun to inform them how worthless the base is.

Truthfully I should have shipped it back, but I thought I could make something better with the base as a start...no. I think a fresh start with the Delta mobile base kit or the one from Rockler, some angle iron, and a torsion box, would be much better. Total waste of $200.

[Steve Leverich]

I have a mid-80's PM66 bought from a cabinet shop, not nearly as "virgin" as the OP's :( but I got it for $1000 including new belts, a new in box trunnion (costs just under $400) and a year-old motor - I'll not be getting to it for a few months, but am considering either blocking the old dust port and using a hole saw/new higher port/false bottom, or using a Rockler base and "detouring" around the port as per the attached sketch... Steve

Forgot to mention - all joints in square tube welded, painted.

[Fred Woodward]

I just called HTC this morning and talked to them about this dust port issue. They said their mobile base should work as they haven't really changed the design.
I ordered the HPS-10-EX which is the rectangular base extendable for either 30" or 50" configuration. I plan to mount the saw on a piece of plywood to seal the bottom of the saw and will adjust the thickness of that to fit the dust collection port as needed.