which router????

[angelo feliciello]

HI everyone ,which type of router would be best to use in a router table? I'm going to build my own table. LOts of different opinions on type of router, fixed or plunge. thanks angelo

[Brian Penning]

If you don't have a router now then I'd suggest a combo kit.
I have the Bosch 1617 and the fixed base has been in my Lee Valley table since day 1.

[Glenn Clabo]

Angelo,
You will get all kinds of ideas from this question. The one I would suggest is the Milwaukee 5625-20. It is 3.5 horsepower model with the added advantage of a built in above the table adjustment. It's costly...$250 or so...but it will save you from buying an after market adjuster. I believe you can also get a model that has fixed and plinge base...for a little more money.

[Tom Clark FL]

Angelo,

I am going to go against the grain of the modern tables and show you this old one. No plate, router lift, or above the table adjustments. I built this table nearly 20 years ago and still love it. By making the table tilt, it becomes very easy to see to adjust with bifocals or reading glasses, a concern for many of us. Bit changes are very fast and easy, without cranking the router up and down.

The router is a Porta Cable 690. Cost was $120 or so. The whole table cost under $250. The hole in the top of the table is 1.625" in diameter, and is good for all bits and dust collection from below. (Shop vac)

Tom

[Bill Huber]

Welcome to the Creek......

You have ask a question that has been ask many times. I have 2 routers, one in the table and a small one off the table.

These routers are the only routers I have ever owned so it is really hard for me to say my Bosch 1617 or Bosch Colt is better then any other router. Both routers have worked very well for me and do everything I ask them to and do it just fine.

Like so many things that are made today it is really hard to tell one from the other. Most have soft start and can be adjusted from the top of the table. There are kits that have both plunge and fixed bases in the kit.

So with all of that said what I feel you should be looking for.
Handles both 1/4 and 1/2 in. bits.
When you go out looking for parts or lefts and things like that there are ones out there to fit that router without adaptors.
Can you get base plates that will fit that router without having to drill holes to make them fit.

That is one thing I like about the Bosch 1617, anything that you go to buy there is one made for that router, holes are already there, you don't have to use an adaptor.

[Michael McCoy]

The above pretty much covered it and if you only buy one router, get a combo. I have no tool loyalty and have 3 Freuds, one old PC, a Milwaukee and more recently a Dewalt. The only difference I've seen between is the ability (or not) to swing the size bits I'm using.

[Eric Haycraft]

If you want above the table changes, make sure to find a lift that can handle the router that you choose. If you go the lift route, you will be basically looking for only the motor. You probably want to pick out a lift first and narrow your router choice based on the list of routers that fit it. These lifts can run more than the router itself:

Therefore, I didn't go this route. I picked up the Freud that has above table capabilities. The only complaint that I have with it is that it is a lot of cranking of the dial to get the bit up and down to make changes and their adjustment knob could have been made into a crank or something to make it easier. Not a big gripe. Also, it may be hard to rig up a digital readout (something that I wish I had) like some router lifts allow. I think that milwaukee also has an above table adjustable router. There are also kits to convert other brands (dewalt comes to mind)

Anyway, here is what I picked up:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FT3000VCE-Variable-Featuring-Adjustments/dp/B000OYIYNM/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1199375150&sr=8-2
(It wasn't on the freud website, so please excuse the amazon 'spam')

[James Hart]

Angelo,

You've gotten some good advice on brands and thoughts on above the table, lifts, etc.

I don't throw money around on tools, but I'm committed to buying the best tools I can with an eye on how I might be using them in the future.

For example, a 1 or 1 1/2 HP router may suit you fine now, but you may eventually want to make some raised panels or moldings that require more HP and variable speeds. These bits are also going to typically be 2+ inches, so the inability to vary the table opening would be a 'do-over', which I try to avoid like the plague.

You may also think that a lift or a self-raising plunge router is overkill, and it might be if you're only going to route simple things a few times a year. If you start using raised panel sets, mitre locks, glue joint bits,etc. where fine adjustments are critical, adjusting from under the table can take much of the fun of woodworking away real quick.

Part of your long term thinking might also include multiple routers, or at least a kit with multiple bases, as many have suggested. The right router for a table is unlikely to be the tool you'll want to use for all your other routing.

Whether it's accomplished with bases or a motor for each task or a mix of the two, you'll want to eventually have the ability to do table, plunge, light and general routing (handheld but more robust than a laminate trimmer, impractical with a heavy 3+ HP). You'll also quickly find that it's a PIA to remove your router from the table every time you need to do handheld routing of some kind.

Jim

[Art Mann]

Angelo,
You will get all kinds of ideas from this question. The one I would suggest is the Milwaukee 5625-20. It is 3.5 horsepower model with the added advantage of a built in above the table adjustment. It's costly...$250 or so...but it will save you from buying an after market adjuster. I believe you can also get a model that has fixed and plinge base...for a little more money.

Right on! There are a few less expensive alternatives. I believe the 3.5 hp Freud router also has the above table height adjust and bit change features, although I haven't tried it. I used the 2.5 hp Freud FT1700 in my table for a while and it has the above table features, but went back to my trusty Hitachi M12V 3.5 hp because horsepower trumps convenience for heavy duty use. I plan to make a second router table for the Ft1700 for less demanding operations.

[Bill White]

I don't do any big doors, so my old and trusty PC 690 has served my very well. I bought the combo set with the fixed and plunge base. That thing has been an absolute mule.
Gotta remember the old saying. "It ain't the arrow, it's the indian".
Bill

[Wade Lippman]

Therefore, I didn't go this route. I picked up the Freud that has above table capabilities. The only complaint that I have with it is that it is a lot of cranking of the dial to get the bit up and down to make changes and their adjustment knob could have been made into a crank or something to make it easier.

I have one on order.
Seems like it ought to be easy enough to either chuck an allen wrench in a cordless drill, or fabricate a crank.

My old router table had a Woodpecker quicklift and I found I used the crank more than the quicklift feature; so I thought I would try the Freud this time around.

[Eric Haycraft]

I have one on order.
Seems like it ought to be easy enough to either chuck an allen wrench in a cordless drill, or fabricate a crank.

My old router table had a Woodpecker quicklift and I found I used the crank more than the quicklift feature; so I thought I would try the Freud this time around.

I am not a hard core woodworker, so take my review with a grain of salt...but I do like it. Good power, smooth, long shaft for easy above table changes. Since it is permanently mounted and I have other routers for handheld stuff, I may try to remove the springs one of these days to make raising it easier. I thought about using a drill, but worry that I may get trigger happy and accidentally strip out the threads or something. I think that it is like 8 revolutions (at work now, so I can't look at it) per inch of raise/lower, so it would be fairly simple for a 500+ rpm drill to hit the upper/lower limits quickly and cause some damage. I think that the best solution is probably to find one of the old fashioned hand drills and mount a hex key in that or get one of those really cheap granny style power screwdrivers. That would still allow for really accurate adjustments while allowing me to raise and lower it quickly without worrying about wrecking the router.

If you go with a pre-drilled plate, it actually has two sets of mounting holes so it takes a wide variety of pre drilled plates (both group 1 and 2 from Benchdog). I ordered the benchdog that was supposed to be compatible with it not realizing that the plate that came with my table saw router wing (group 1) was already compatible with the apparently undocumented holes in the Freud. In the case of the plate that was 'made' for the freud, it put the router at an angle to the edge of the plate and I ended up removing a handle on the router to get the thing in and out easier. I also had to file part of the lip on the table saw wing to get it in mainly because the benchdog plates are an inch smaller in the narrower width. Anyway, long rant short, I would buy an undrilled plate if I were to do it again. No matter what, you need to drill two holes in the plate since they don't predrill any plates that I have found for the above table routers.. what's 3 more.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Hi Angelo, and Welcome,

There are several quality routers on the market. The PC 690 is a workhorse and for a 1 1/2 hp router I milled several hundred feet of oak raised panel material with it and it never quit, it just popped a 20 amp breaker several times. Would not recommend one like mine for that, though - without a variable speed I tended to get a good bit of tearout.

If you are positive it will stay in a table a 3 hp with variable speed will handle all you care to throw at it. If it will be used in and out of a table get a smaller one with two bases. I hate to think about trying to hand route with my big PC and taking the base off the table every time you route by hand is a pain.

Get one that has collets for both 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits. And don't worry; if you hang around sawdust long enough you'll end up with three or four of them (like me) :D

[Christopher Kanda]

PM sent on router

[angelo feliciello]

Thanks everyone for all the advice. I think I know what I'm going to do. I loved the idea of a solid top that lifts(i do wear bifocals!!).
Also I would like to that glad I ran into sawmill. I must say that I like the responses I've seen to everyone elses questions.
Thanks again Angelo

[Dave MacArthur]

You need to read Pat Warner's site. I consider him the most knowledgable writer on routers I've found on the web. here is what he says about choosing a router, and he has several articles on router tables:
http://www.patwarner.com/selecting_router.html