Homebuilt Splitter?

[Robert foster]

Has anyone built a good splitter for their TS? I'm thinking about making one for my SC. I have some 1/8th" aluminum. Would this be a good material? Does anyone have plans or design for one that works well?
Thanks:
Bob

[Thomas Williams]

I plan on replacing the OEM splitter with a home made aluminum one on my TS. However, I think a splitter should be slightly thinner than your blade. From the Leeway site (Shark Guard) his thin kerf splitter is .90 and .105 for the full kerf.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Take a look at this site it may give you some pointers.

Greg

http://www.wordsnwood.com/2002/j.splitter/

[CW McClellan]

check this site out on riving knife

http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/HammerB3/B3RivingKnife/hammerb3_rivingknife.html

:D

[Jim Becker]

CW, that's a great little article, but what it illustrates will only work with a machine that is setup such that the riving knife can move up and down with the blade. Euro saws are setup that way as are a few of the newest "American style" machines. (And all new models starting this year will be required to have a riving knife setup)
------

Robert, the easiest way to make your own splitter is to have it integral with your table insert. For through cuts you use that insert; for non-through cuts and bevels, you use a table insert without the splitter.

But you can also make a replacement for the factory splitter that fastens into the existing connection if you work at it. A little harder to install and remove, but workable. The advantage to this location is that the splitter will still be usable for through bevel cuts. (The commercial solutions, such as the Biesemeyer Snap-In splitter mount a receiver in that area)

The others are correct, however...you'll need to "thickness" that 1/8" aluminum down a little...it should be just a little thinner than your blade kerf. You'll also want to chamfer the leading edge of your splitter a little to avoid catching material on it.

[Art Davis]

Robert,

You might want to do a search on this forum because some time ago someone posted a thread mentioning that he had made a splitter using a Simpson Strong Tie bracket. I did likewise, and it seems to work well. You just cut the bracket to size, make a hole for the mounting bolt. Then use a washer or washers of the appropriate thickness as spacers to line it up with the fence side of the blade. Seems to work well. It is somewhat supple, and I don't know whether that's good or bad. I think good, 'cause it keeps the tension on the workpiece without jamming it against the fence.

Art

[Keith Beck]

Robert,

Here's my most recent splitter. It's made from a hinge that I had laying around that I cut to fit:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03199.jpg

Here's what it looks like under the insert (note the formica shim):

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03200.jpg

My prior splitter consisted of a couple of Formica samples glued together, then glued into a kerf on my insert:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03201.jpg

As Jim mentioned, having a splitter mounted in your insert makes it much easier to remove if you need to do a bevel cut. I just like the looks of the hinge better. :D

As you can tell, I use the Formica samples you can get at the Borgs for all kinds of stuff. They make good glue spreaders too.


Keith

[Jim Solomon]

Robert,

Here's my most recent splitter. It's made from a hinge that I had laying around that I cut to fit:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03199.jpg

Here's what it looks like under the insert (note the formica shim):

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03200.jpg

My prior splitter consisted of a couple of Formica samples glued together, then glued into a kerf on my insert:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03201.jpg

As Jim mentioned, having a splitter mounted in your insert makes it much easier to remove if you need to do a bevel cut. I just like the looks of the hinge better. :D

As you can tell, I use the Formica samples you can get at the Borgs for all kinds of stuff. They make good glue spreaders too.


Keith
Thats a good idea Keith. I have some solid brass hinges laying around without mates. Now I know what I can use them for;)
Jim
By the way what or where is "Borg"???

[Keith Beck]

Jim,

Borg is just a nickmade for the home improvement stores like Lowes and Home Depot.

Keith

[Michael Tessier]

I've been meaning to post pictures of the splitter I made for my General 650 TS. It is made out of annealed A2 flatstock and is ground .100" thick. In the picture you can also see the clamp I made to hold stock down.

This is a very strong setup and I have a lot of faith in it.

Best Regards,
Mike

[Robert foster]

Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate your ideas. So far the one i'm building looks a lot like Michaels. I'm still in the sculpting process and will have to get it aligned and tested for thickness. I will try to post pix when I get it done.

Thanks again

Bob

[John Beck]

There is apicture of a simple splitter that can be used for bevel cuts @www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=1281&d=1056660012. This site only gives the picture. Does anyone know how to get the original post? I've had no luck searching the forums.