Dial Indicators ?

[Joe Close]

New guy here again.....

What do most of you guys use for dial indicators in tuning your table saws? Any particular kits that work good for TS tuning?

[Dave Falkenstein]

Welcome to the Creek. I like my TS Aligner Jr. Kind of pricey, but good for many tools in the shop and measures angles accurately as well.

http://www.ts-aligner.com/

[Ken Herold]

I use the TS Aligner Jr. It works great and has many uses for setting up and checking other tools. They make several products at different price points, but I can only vouch for my satisfaction with this one.

http://www.ts-aligner.com/

[Jim Becker]

I have the TS Aligner Jr. And it's not just for table saws...

[Larry Fox]

I use this little gizmo and it works great for me. Cost about $0.40 for the bolt and washer and takes about 20 minutes to make.

78365

The slot holds the DI and the bolt goes through the hole and into the other side which is threaded. Snug the bolt up and it pinches the slot closed around the tab of the DI and you are off to the races.

Only thing you need to take a few seconds to ensure is that the piece is square to the runner.

Put in the right miter slot and check paralell to the blade. Flip it around in the left and check the fence.

[Lance Norris]

Masterplate and Superbar from Mastergage.com
Amazon.com is $10 cheaper than everybody else on the Superbar and free shipping. I bought both from Amazon.

[Mike Marcade]

Another vote for the versatility of the TS-Aligner Jr.

[Brian Kent]

I took a chance with the Grizzly Magnetic Base, Dial Indicator, Caliper Combo Pack for $32 and it works well.

[Joe Close]

Thanks for the input. That TS Aligner Jr looks pretty slick.

[Randy Davidson]

I have ordered but not received yet Hartville Tools own version of the Aligner. Considerable less cost but can't vouch for it's accuracy yet.

[Matt Meiser]

I mount my dial indicator on a surface gage which has pins that will locate it against the miter slot.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/ProductImages/0648899-11.jpg

[Don Bullock]

Peachtree had their A-Line-It Basic System on sale for a great price last year in one of their email deals. I bought it because I got a new saw that needed to be checked. It works well for me, but I have no idea how it compares to others.

78408
http://www.ptreeusa.com/shop_accessories.htm

[Jim Solomon]

I'm in the market for one of these also. I think I decided on the TS junior basic. Although I think it is pretty petty of him to charge $34 for the plastic case. I have medium density foam and a ton of hardwood scrap so I guess I'll make my own. My reasoning on this is the versitality of it. Can check my DJ 20, my bandsaw, and maybe more I haven't thought of.
Jim

[Shawn Green]

Quick tip for the TS aligner... Go to the offical site, but purchase it from his distributor, Chad's Toolbox. It'll save you about $25 after the free shipping. I got mine in less than a week.

[Jim Solomon]

Quick tip for the TS aligner... Go to the offical site, but purchase it from his distributor, Chad's Toolbox. It'll save you about $25 after the free shipping. I got mine in less than a week.
That's what I did:D I googled for TS aligner and Chad's was the cheapest. Thank's for the heads up Shawn.
Jim

[Bruce Page]

Matt Meiser & I think alike. This is how I check my TS; http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32315

[keith micinski]

Man I wish this thread would have been up a week ago. I ordered it from him direct and payed the full price. I got the jr light and kind of wish I would have gotten the base plate now. It works clamping it to my mitre gauge but I have to use a spacer block plus I like the way the bearing system works for his base eliminating any slop in the channel.

[Shawn Green]

I like the way the bearing system works for his base eliminating any slop in the channel.
I wouldn't say eliminates... a fourth bearing would have. Not sure about others, but the SC I have has grooves in the miter slot sides that make sliding the TS aligner a bumpy process.

[Ed Beers]

I use this little gizmo and it works great for me. Cost about $0.40 for the bolt and washer and takes about 20 minutes to make.

78365

The slot holds the DI and the bolt goes through the hole and into the other side which is threaded. Snug the bolt up and it pinches the slot closed around the tab of the DI and you are off to the races.

Only thing you need to take a few seconds to ensure is that the piece is square to the runner.

Put in the right miter slot and check paralell to the blade. Flip it around in the left and check the fence.

Yours looks a little more sophisticated than mine but it is pretty similar. I just screwed the DI tab to the side of the cross piece.

Why do you need to flip it to check the fence? After I check the blade, I lower it and move the fence over so it is in the range of the dial indicator. Within reason, I don't think it makes any difference if the cross piece is truely square with the runner.

I use an $8 HF indicator which works fine.

Ed

[Heather Thompson]

I have the one made by Hart Design (Red Line X-Point) and use it with the Master Plate. I got it a few years back from Eagle America, 105.00 with free shipping.

Heather

[Gene Gauss]

For a cheap and dirty substitute for a dial indicator, clamp a hardwood rod with a rounded tip to your miter gauge so it's quite close to, but not touching the blade, and use a feeler gauge between the end of the rod and the blade perimeter, just inside the gullets.