New lister needs help spending HD gift card...

[Chase Gregory]

I'm a recent registrant though I've lurked for a while off and on. I've got a long way to go in putting together a shop and am trying to decide among a few items to spend $150 in HD gift cards (plus some cash as necessary) and would like some brief input on a few options I'm considering. Maybe some of you could chime in and let me know the latitude of uses you've found for the items I mention.

If I weren't limited to HD there are other things I'd be pursuing, but I just need to get this money spent and move on.

Background: I've got a TS3650 table saw, 12" CMS, PC air stapler/18ga/15ga nailers, PC plate jointer, floor and bench drill presses, various dewalt & milwaukee drills/drivers/jigsaws/sawsalls, Ryobi 5" RO, Craftsman (old) 3x21 BS.

Of note: I do not have a planer, jointer, BS, stationary sander, table mounted router (well I do have a 20 yr old Craftsman 1.5 hp in an old craftsman AL table that is just a 1/4" collet machine).

My shop is a barn w/ a dirt floor except for a small slab I poured under my TS.

Of the things I can get at HD using the gift cards I'm considering one or two of the following:

1. Ridgid oscillating spindle/belt sander. Seems that all who own them use them often.

2. Ridgid laminate trimmer. Would be very useful for roundovers and hinge mortises.

3. Upgrade my Ryobi 5" RO to a VS Ridgid or a PC 343k? Is variable speed worth it? If the Ryobi is working should I even bother?

4. Milwaukee 5616. - 2.5HP router to put in a table. I haven't pursued a table w/ the 690 since it seems small for such. If HD carried the 5625 I never would have started this thread, I'd have just bought it.

5. Ridgid planer. New 3 knife is what they are carrying here.

I'm leaning most towards 1, then 4, then 2&3, and lastly 5.

Thanks for any thoughts to the utility of the above items!

Chase Gregory
Hahira, Georgia

[scott spencer]

If you use a lot of solid wood, I think a planer would add the most capability depending on what you build.

[Chase Gregory]

If you use a lot of solid wood, I think a planer would add the most capability depending on what you build.

Yep. I don't because I don't - so to speak. The lack of a planer as limiting my pursuit of certain projects that involve more solid wood. One of the many catch 22's when selecting tools.

If my TS blade is absolutely perpendicular, can it serve to square parts that are then dressed smooth on the planer? Since I have no joiner?

Does the new Ridgid planer fit the bill as a good value for a LB planer?

Thanks for the reply.

Chaser

[Jim Thiel]

I would be more interested in what you do or would like to do before making suggestions.

As for option three and four, I would lurk around on Amazon for the buy a router get a sander free deal.

The spindle sander has been recommended by a lot of folks here, so over time that might be a good value.

The bigger stuff (jointer, band saw, etc.) I really try to push people towards the used equipment. Excellent value there.

The best thing with gift cards is they don't spoil like oranges. Use it for hardware, paint, whatever. If you buy paint, and the funds for the paint comes from the general budget, put the cash in your hobby fund and use the card. That way in time you can use the cash to pick up a first rate jointer or planer somewhere else.

Jim

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Chase...........Welcome to the Creek! Glad to see you posting and not just lurking!


I've got the older version of that planer. For the buck it's a pretty good bang. I'm just finishing my shop. I have the TS3650....again good saw for the buck. I just bought a PM3650 lathe, an Onieda 2.5 h/p Super Dust Gorilla and MM-16 b/s. The planer will stay and yesterday the LOML gave me the go ahead to order a Grizzley 8" jointer I"ve had my eye on......Nothing wrong with that planer. Someday if I'm building a lot of furniture I might consider replacing it but for now it does a decent job. Good luck with your decisons.

[Don Bullock]

Like Jim, I'd like to know what you want to do with your shop. The types of projects you want to do make a big difference in tool choice.

I am putting a shop together and am buying tools as I "need" them for a project or when I can get a super "deal" on them. For me that's been the best way to go and I'd recommed this approach to anyone who doesn't yet have a "full" shop. So, decide what you want to make and decide which tool will be the best for that project.

Another approach would be based on the type of lumber you buy. Before I bought a jointer and planer I was limited to wood that was surfaced on all four sides. All projects had to be limited to the thickness of the wood that I could buy. With the jointer and planer I can now surface my own wood. This has allowed me to buy better wood at a lower price and size my wood to fit my design.

[keith ouellette]

I would be glad to help. Tell me which home depot your going to and I'll meet you there. Nice of you to offer me the use of your gift card but I think if you try hard enough you can spend it all your self.

In case thats not what you meant Rigid has a pretty nice ocillating drum sander

[glenn bradley]

I would say you have a good list to choose from. Something to consider; HD has as good a price on Jorgie f-clamps as almost anybody. Four each of 4", 6" 12" and 18" would be a good start on a clamp stable and would burn up your gift card.

I am jonesing for a real jointer which I am saving for like a rabid dog. If I had to have just a jointer or just a planer I would get the planer as I have gotten by with a sled for face jointing for over a year now. Tedious but workable. Come on jointer ... come on jointer ...

[Danny Thompson]

I love my #1 (Osc spindle/belt sander), but would probably go for #5 (planer). In short, sanding can be done cheaply by hand, but not thicknessing (I am assuming you need to thickness).

[Brodie Brickey]

Get a Ryobi or Rigid planar. Stock properly dimensioned will go a long way to getting you where you want to be.

[William Nimmo]

I also vote for the jorgensen cabinet master clamps.they are like the k body besseys, but they are a little heavier and therfore stronger.

[glenn bradley]

The lack of a planer as limiting my pursuit of certain projects that involve more solid wood. One of the many catch 22's when selecting tools.

You may want to check this out: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=58735

[Thomas Knighton]

First, welcome to the Creek. I'm not that far from you (been to Hahira a time or two ;)).

My suggestion would be the planer. Most of the rest of the stuff you seem to be looking at will deal with a function that can be done by something else, though not nearly as well. The planer is typically one of the most important tools in a powered workshop, or so I've heard.

I'm a newb. I'd be buying something basic and vital, but that's just me :D

Tom

[Michael Gibbons]

I just spent a $20 card and bought 2 boxes of the norton 3X sandpaper discs for my ROS. I tend to use those discs for more than just the sander. I'd buy stuff that gets used up like sandpaper,paintbrushes, finishes or replace broken or missing drill bits. With a bot of extra cash,you could get the PC 890 router.

[JayStPeter]

I'd go for the planer ... or a bunch of cement.

[Chase Gregory]

Thanks for the replys.

FWIW I'll be building shop cabinets (base cabinets) and such initially, then some bath vanities for our home, and various other pieces of furniture for our house - occasional tables, hall tree/chest, closet 'system', etc...

I don't plan to do any bowls, jewelry boxes, picture frames, mirrors, or any work to sell in the near future - nor any chairs, tables or work that involves a lot of curves, bookmatching or other figured wood. All that type of work is for when I have some more time and experience to draw from.

Most of the furniture will likely either be painted or have a dark (espresso) stained finish.

Some questions I have from the input thus far:

How effective is a shop vac at collecting chips off a planer? I don't have a DC.

Are the Jorgie clamps referred to the all metal bar clamps? Like $15 each, or the $32 parallel jaw type? I looked at 'em today at the Depot.

Thanks for the insight - it certianly helps to have the insights.

I do want more concrete, BTW... 30" x 30" is kinda limiting...

Chaser

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
I have ~ $200.00 in Home Depot cards coming to me via their Master Card "Rewards".
Home Depot tools leave a lot to be desired, IMNSHO.
Better offerings can be had from Amazon @ usually much better prices, even when shipping if factored in.

Since you're primary need is cabinets you might want to look at the Kreg pocket screw jigs. They seldom go for less $$ anywhere else.
$150 would swing a K2 and a couple of boxes of screws.

[William Nimmo]

I have never seen kreg at home depot. Lowes yes, not hd near me.

[josh bjork]

I don't do a ton but when i make a little face frame project, all of the wood goes through the planer. I think I picked up this tip from the more production oriented people online. It helps a lot. Every piece is consistent in width and thickness. If I can screw them together and still have them flat? That is another matter. Small planers are kind of disposable. I think that is a good reason to buy new.

[Scott Velie]

YEP unless you want to build stuff out of 4/4 stock all the time you need a planer. It opens up wood sources and its nice to buld things the thickness they should be VS what the lumberyard has.

I could not get along without my 20" grizzley.

Scott

[Chase Gregory]

Hello,
Home Depot tools leave a lot to be desired, IMNSHO.
Better offerings can be had from Amazon @ usually much better prices, even when shipping if factored in.

Since you're primary need is cabinets you might want to look at the Kreg pocket screw jigs. They seldom go for less $$ anywhere else.
$150 would swing a K2 and a couple of boxes of screws.

I agree that I could spend it much quicker at Woodcraft/Rockler/Lee Valley,etc... even so I am getting some really good advice that is helping me take a look at my 'lot' from a new paradigm.

I did find that the Milwaukee 5625 can be sourced through HD online with free shipping, so it's still an option.

I know this may be a heavily loaded question...but can't I do my cabinets w/ my PC biscuit joiner as well as a Kreg?

Chaser

[JayStPeter]

How effective is a shop vac at collecting chips off a planer? I don't have a DC.
Chaser

When I first got my Ridgid planer all I had was a big 'ole Craftsman shop vac. It is pretty effective at collecting the chips, but probably still let fine dust into the air. The biggest problem is it fills up quick. It needs emptying about every 10 minutes of use with a planer.

[Al Willits]

I'd go with the oscillating sander, I have one and use it all the time, good value for the price.

You can buy s2s boards from the lumber yard and by pass the planer till a deal comes along, also a router can be used to plane wood with a couple of guide rails in the case you need to plane.

Didn't say where your from, but maybe another woodworker lives near you and could help with any major planing or joining till you get more tools.

Al

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

I know this may be a heavily loaded question...but can't I do my cabinets w/ my PC biscuit joiner as well as a Kreg?
Yep.
Both work. I do find myself reaching for the Kreg ( I have an R2) though a lot more often (like 99% of the time) than I do my PC bisquit joiner.

I believe William may be correct though about HD and the Kreg. I've seen them on-line, but I don't recall seeing them in the store - but - I've not looked al that hard for them either.

[Fred Voorhees]

Chase, I see that you have a few PC air nailers and a stapler. I got a few HD gift cards as well and there was one thing in the air nailer that I didn't have as of yet and that was a pin nailer. That is what I ended up with. You won't use it often, but when the need is there, it will serve your purposes well. You might consider one of those.

[Fred Voorhees]

Hello,

Yep.
Both work. I do find myself reaching for the Kreg ( I have an R2) though a lot more often (like 99% of the time) than I do my PC bisquit joiner.

I believe William may be correct though about HD and the Kreg. I've seen them on-line, but I don't recall seeing them in the store - but - I've not looked al that hard for them either.

I'm pretty darned sure that the Depot doesn't carry Kreg products. If so, it would make life easier when I wanted a drill bit or some screws.

[Daniel Berlin]

I'm pretty darned sure that the Depot doesn't carry Kreg products. If so, it would make life easier when I wanted a drill bit or some screws.

They do, but only online for most of them (a very small number of regions carry them locally)

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?id=100375608&jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&marketID=401&productId=100375608&locStoreNum=8125&langId=-1&linktype=product&storeId=10051&ddkey=THDSiteMap

[Chase Gregory]

I'd go with the oscillating sander, I have one and use it all the time, good value for the price.

You can buy s2s boards from the lumber yard and by pass the planer till a deal comes along, also a router can be used to plane wood with a couple of guide rails in the case you need to plane.

Didn't say where your from, but maybe another woodworker lives near you and could help with any major planing or joining till you get more tools.

Al

Hahira, Ga.

30 miles north of Florida on I-75.

I have a good friend w/ a planer, 3hp shaper, 3hp TS, etc (no jointer)... but it's 20 miles south of me. His planer is a Delta 580 and I'm sure he'd let me borrow it. It's the only portable item he has...

Thanks for the *reminder* as that's a good option. Though I MUCH prefer to own than borrow.

I'm in contact w/ a guy selling a DW735. Just have to find out how much and if it has outfeed tables. Dunno what a used one is worth, though...

I figure $300 tops for a used 735 with new blades and tables. It'll cost me $70 in gas and time to go get it and I can get the Ridgid for $370 new... thoughts?

Chaser

[Chase Gregory]

I'm getting a DW735 w/ tables and the Ridgid osc belt/spindle - both used for less than 10 hrs - from one seller.

Delivered to my door from 100+ miles away...for less than $400...:D:D.

HD cards go to house fund - so my wife get's to spend them.

Talk about a happy household!

Chaser

[Thomas Knighton]

Very nice Chase! I'm a bit jealous :D

Tom

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Chase, sounds like you have a lot of good suggestions for spending your money, we at SMC are experts at spending other peoples money!

A planer is one of the must have machines in a shop, unfortunately it has a partner called a jointer.

A planer makes things parallel, a jointer makes them flat or straight.

I'm now about to be lambasted by half the members, however a planer isn't much use without a reference face jointed on the wood (by the jointer of course).

Yes you can make a sled, and fiddle around with it for every piece of wood you want to process, however I don't have the time or the patience for that.

Starting with a piece of wood I;

1) joint one face

2) joint one edge using the above face as the reference

3) rip to a little bit oversized

4) plane second surface using first surface as the reference

5) plane second edge using first edge as reference.

Now you have a piece of straight, parallel wood, dimensioned to your requirements. All other operations are dependant upon these first few steps.

A planer will get you started, however warped lumber in, thinner warped lumber out.

I haven't seen a shop vacuum that can keep up with a planer, they may exist, I just haven't seen one.

I'd buy some Bessey K body clamps with my certificate, good clamps, and you can never have too many.

Regards, Rod.

[Chase Gregory]

Starting with a piece of wood I;

1) joint one face

2) joint one edge using the above face as the reference

3) rip to a little bit oversized

4) plane second surface using first surface as the reference

5) plane second edge using first edge as reference.

A planer will get you started, however warped lumber in, thinner warped lumber out.

I haven't seen a shop vacuum that can keep up with a planer, they may exist, I just haven't seen one.

I'd buy some Bessey K body clamps with my certificate, good clamps, and you can never have too many.

Regards, Rod.

Thanks Rod!

I am getting a 735 that'll blow chips so my shop vac should live another day. See above post of mine.

Is item 5 above really a planer function? I was expecting jointed like 2? I suppose I'll find out when I have a jointer to use.

The seller I got the planer from had just sold a jointer or I'd have gotten it as well...:mad:

But I'm making progress. Can a perfectly square TS effectively 'joint' a board? Isn't that what the Freud GLUE-LINE is implying?

Are the K body clamps the parallel type?

Chaser

[Eric Haycraft]

I have never seen kreg at home depot. Lowes yes, not hd near me.

I see them in my HD. In mine they are right around the corner from the router tables. They are easy to miss and I was shocked to see them there.



Anyway, I would avoid getting a router from HD. You really want a 3HP model if you plan to mount it and the best deals are usually found online for most power tools like routers and drills. A good 3 HP will run 200-300 dollars online.

I would second the Kreg kit from HD. It is priced right and a good kit if you think that you would use it.

I am a bit iffy on recommending, the jorgenson clamps. They are great clamps and priced right at HD, but the jets are probably the better (and cheaper) route and there are some great deals online for them.

I picked up their holiday deal on 3 senco finish nailers for 199 and am quite happy with that purchase, so that would be another suggestion if you have an air compressor and no nailers.

Other suggestions like paint, screws, nails, etc would be a recommendation. That stuff adds up quickly. It lacks the 'look at the cool thing I got with your giftcard' vibe that you probably want to portray to your gifter, but you definitely won't feel buyer's remorse buying nails or paint..but you could easily feel bad later buying an underpowered or undersided power tool when saving up and buying a more appropriate tool later would have been the better option.

Other ideas.. Do you have enough outlets? 150 bucks can add a few circuits if you need more.

[Steve Kolbe]

Chase

I am pretty new to all this, but based on your listed needs, I would agree that a planer is what you would go for at this time!

[Danny Thompson]

Hi Chase, sounds like you have a lot of good suggestions for spending your money, we at SMC are experts at spending other peoples money!

A planer is one of the must have machines in a shop, unfortunately it has a partner called a jointer.

A planer makes things parallel, a jointer makes them flat or straight.

I'm now about to be lambasted by half the members, however a planer isn't much use without a reference face jointed on the wood (by the jointer of course).

Yes you can make a sled, and fiddle around with it for every piece of wood you want to process, however I don't have the time or the patience for that.

Starting with a piece of wood I;

1) joint one face

2) joint one edge using the above face as the reference

3) rip to a little bit oversized

4) plane second surface using first surface as the reference

5) plane second edge using first edge as reference.

Now you have a piece of straight, parallel wood, dimensioned to your requirements. All other operations are dependant upon these first few steps.

A planer will get you started, however warped lumber in, thinner warped lumber out.

I haven't seen a shop vacuum that can keep up with a planer, they may exist, I just haven't seen one.

I'd buy some Bessey K body clamps with my certificate, good clamps, and you can never have too many.

Regards, Rod.

I had always heard the sequence was this:

1) joint one face using the jointer
2) joint one edge square using the jointer with the jointed face flush pressed against the fence
3) plane the second face using the planer, jointed face down
4) rip the second edge on the table saw, with either face down and the jointed edge pressed against the fence (assuming your saw blade is square to the table and parallel to your fence and you keep the jointed edge tight to the fence, this should be a very accurate cut)
5) As needed, smooth any surfaces by hand using a smoother (Stanley #3 or 4 hand plane), or a random orbit sander.

The reason to not do step 4 on a jointer is that, although the jointer will make the 2nd edge flat and square to the faces, this method provides no way keep the 2nd edge parallel with the 1st. The end result would be faces that are wider on one end of the board than on the other.

The reason I wouldn't do step 4 on a planer is that you would have to send the board through on its edge, and I would be concerned that it would not remain perfectly square as it fed through the planer.