Finished my basement Check out the pics

[Bob DiGiacomo]

It took just about 10 months of weekends and nights. I am happy to be done and very satisfied with the end result. 78296

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[David G Baker]

Bob,
Beautiful work.
If I finished my basement like that the LOML would kick me out of it and take it over. :)
I am in the very slow process of fixing up my basement, still in the planning stage. Your work has inspired me.

[Joe Mioux]

Very nice basement project, Bob!

Looks like you will have lots of fun down there.

joe

[Bob DiGiacomo]

Bob,
Beautiful work.
If I finished my basement like that the LOML would kick me out of it and take it over. :)
I am in the very slow process of fixing up my basement, still in the planning stage. Your work has inspired me.


Thanks David,
Good luck with your project. If you have any questions I learned a lot throughout the experience, and would be happy to share my thoughts with you. P.S. what is a LOML? I am only 30yrs. old and feel old because I can't understand the acronyms. I guess I need to start text messaging.

[David G Baker]

Bob,
Thanks for the offer, I may just take you up on it.
LOML = LOVE OF MY LIFE much easier than typing significant other because I have to do a spell check every time I use big words. :D
I didn't even know what an acronym was prior to reading threads. I rarely use them and never do the text messaging.

[Phil Thien]

I don't get it, where does the table saw go? :p

Nice job.

[Tim Wagner]

Nice job! where is the home theater, and the big screen?

[Jim Becker]

Nice job, Bob! Looks great.

[Dave Fernelius]

Bob
First off, very nice job with the basement rehab; it's beautiful.
I, too, am in the planning stages of a basement remodel and have some construction detail questions:
I assume some or all of the walls are full height masonry block; tell me how you vapor barriered these walls? I assume you firred them out with 2x's and then insulated and installed poly before sheetrocking. Where did you install the vapor barrier - directly over the block before firring; on top of the firing and insulation? I've even seen one installation where the builder put VB on both sides of the 2x firring.
As for the floor - what material did you use and how was it installed? Directly over the concrete slab; did you first install a leveling and insulating top coat?
As most basements go in the frozen tundra of MN, basements get pretty cold in the winter. I'm OK with it in my shop (which occupy's about 30% of my basement) but to make the family spaces more comfortable, I need input on the best insulation techniques.
Thanks for your comments.
Regards,
Dave Fernelius

[Thomas Knighton]

That's a basement :eek:

Darn nice! I'd be happy with a mold infested hole under my house, much less something as nice as that!

Tom

[Bob DiGiacomo]

Bob
First off, very nice job with the basement rehab; it's beautiful.
I, too, am in the planning stages of a basement remodel and have some construction detail questions:
I assume some or all of the walls are full height masonry block; tell me how you vapor barriered these walls? I assume you firred them out with 2x's and then insulated and installed poly before sheetrocking. Where did you install the vapor barrier - directly over the block before firring; on top of the firing and insulation? I've even seen one installation where the builder put VB on both sides of the 2x firring.
As for the floor - what material did you use and how was it installed? Directly over the concrete slab; did you first install a leveling and insulating top coat?
As most basements go in the frozen tundra of MN, basements get pretty cold in the winter. I'm OK with it in my shop (which occupy's about 30% of my basement) but to make the family spaces more comfortable, I need input on the best insulation techniques.
Thanks for your comments.
Regards,
Dave Fernelius

Dave,

I left about 8" between the back of my 2X4 studs and my poured concrete wall. What that does is it allows the R-13 insulation to expand and not touch the concrete wall and pick up moisture. The R-13 already has a vapor barrier, so I did not have to add one.

With block walls first paint 2 coats of drylock water proofer before you put up any walls. Insulate with R-13 then apply plastic on the front side of the wall under the drywall. Use bathroom (greenboard) for entire basement, and keep drywall off the floor by 1/2" to prevent water ( broken water heater) from seeping up.

As far as the floor. I used Mohawk laminate flooring. No leveling concrete needed, Put down 1/8" vapor barrier, tape seems, then lay floor.

If you want real hardwood, you need to lay 20 roofing felt, then 2x4 pressure treated sleepers every 2' then what I would do is lay 1" foam insulation board between the sleepers then put the floor on top.

For interior walls like between the shop and living area of the basement Insulate and use plastic on the shop side to prevent any dust from coming into the living space.

Keep in mind that my basement never has gotten any water in it at all not even a drop in the sump pit, also I am not a contractor I am a shop teacher.

Hope this helps. Bob:D

[Michael Gibbons]

What? No tennis court and Jaccuzi? Just Joshin ya very nice.

[Dave Fernelius]

Dave,

I left about 8" between the back of my 2X4 studs and my poured concrete wall. What that does is it allows the R-13 insulation to expand and not touch the concrete wall and pick up moisture. The R-13 already has a vapor barrier, so I did not have to add one.

With block walls first paint 2 coats of drylock water proofer before you put up any walls. Insulate with R-13 then apply plastic on the front side of the wall under the drywall. Use bathroom (greenboard) for entire basement, and keep drywall off the floor by 1/2" to prevent water ( broken water heater) from seeping up.

As far as the floor. I used Mohawk laminate flooring. No leveling concrete needed, Put down 1/8" vapor barrier, tape seems, then lay floor.

If you want real hardwood, you need to lay 20 roofing felt, then 2x4 pressure treated sleepers every 2' then what I would do is lay 1" foam insulation board between the sleepers then put the floor on top.

For interior walls like between the shop and living area of the basement Insulate and use plastic on the shop side to prevent any dust from coming into the living space.

Keep in mind that my basement never has gotten any water in it at all not even a drop in the sump pit, also I am not a contractor I am a shop teacher.

Hope this helps. Bob:D
Bob
Thanks very much for getting back. Appreciate the details.
I like the idea of providing an air space between the wall framing and the block, however, 8" plus the 4" for the 2x's and sheetrock seems like a lot of space to give up. I don't think you gain that much additional R value by going with 8", but an inch or two is a good idea. Also, I had the same idea to hold the sheetrock off the floor some distance to prevent wicking. Greenboard is a good idea too as well as installing poly on the shop side of the separation wall to keep dust migration down. The flooing details sound right on too.
Thanks again.
Dave

[Bob DiGiacomo]

8" does seem like a lot, but I had a lot of plumbing run behind the studs as well. By the way you would really be surprised how much the insulation sags back from the studs towards the block wall. Check it out, by looking behind the wall after the insulation is in. Good luck with your project. Bob