Trying to match Pottery Barn "stain"

[George Bowen]

Hello All,

I am building some framed mirrors for my sister in law's dinning room. Her current furniture in there is from pottery barn and is that standard dark dark brown finish (Espresso kind of, cant see a lot of grain).

They are listed as "Hardwood" with an "EspressoStain" finish, although it has got to be more than just stain.

How do I get a finish that dark? I am planning to use Alder or possibly cherry, although I would hate to cover up cherry like that.

I have tried all kinds of dark stains and cant seem to get cherry dark enough, and Alder will probably be blotchier.

Do I need to tint a shellac or lacquer. Or Dye the wood first then stain and topcoat, or skip the stain just topcoat??

All the furniture these days is this dark dark color that is not a "stained" wood look. Not my favorite but how do I achieve this look. It apears as though when it scratches the sood shows through, indicating a translucent dark colors coating.

Anyway, any help would be great. I will be spraying Target USL, also my firt time for that, so I could tint that possibly. Dont want to waste any more money though on testing stuff that isnt getting the job done.

Many thanks in advance

[Rob Amadon]

George,

As you have seen you can't get that color in one step. They get it using a toner (finish with dye added), you can do that or you can dye the wood, seal in the dye and then use a glaze over that. Repeat the sealer then glaze until the wood is dark enough.

You will obscure the grain. It would be a waste to do this to cherry. I suggest something cheaper. Actually I suggest that you convince your SIL that wood has natural beauty that should be allowed to show through, and that espresso finish will be passe' in 5-10 years anyway. and that not all wood in the same room has to look the same. Remember, there was a time when people payed good money to have their bathrooms remodeled with harvest gold and pastel green tile and fixtures. That looks silly now yet quality furniture made in the 18th and 19th century still doesn't look dated. Fashions change, true beauty doesn't. There is going to be a huge business refinishing this espresso stuff in 10 years when all the women who have to have it know decide it doesn't look good anymore.

Rant over, Rob

[George Bowen]

I totally agree. I do not want to use a nice wood, even alder...

I made the test frame out of poplar, 2 1x4 laminated together at a 3/8" offset, riped a large cove with the table saw and it turned out nicely.

Anyway I have been trying a dark walnut gel stain on the poplar. I just put on a second coat and it looks like it is darkening up.

Can I "build up" a gel stain (Varathane Gel Stain), is it more of a topical "stain" than a traditional oil stain, then I am planing to seal with some dewaxed shellac, and possibly finish with shellac so it is a smooth satin finish or spray with USL to practice and then buff it down to satin.

[Jim Becker]

Pottery Barn uses multi-step finishes...they even speak about this from time to time in their catalogs. You'll probably need to do the same with dye and toners to get the color to "match" and work it all out on scrap, keeping detailed notes so that when you find the right combination, you'll be able to repeat it on the same species.

[Peter Froh]

1 or 2 coats of black analyde dye
1 or 2 coats of american walnut stain (Varathane brand)
top with wipe-on poly and a rub of wax if you like.

Got this recipe from Wood Mag and it's got a nice colour. I used it on a sideboard that I'm working on (in poplar) and it shows nice.

There might be products that will do the same in less coats but I don't know which ones.

Here is picture of Wood Mag's example: http://woodstore.net/mabaca.html