My New Shop Plans

[George Bregar]

I will be setting up a new shop in my unused three car garage. Attached are the:

1) Layout: The garage is 24x36. 2x4 framing with 8' ceilings. I will be eliminating the 16x7 door to gain wall space, and to improve insulation. Also, moved the door to the front of building and relocating the three existing 2'x4' windows to capture the south and southwest light. I will add larger windows in the finishing area. What you see is the final with changes. Think I will be using OSB versus drywall for the walls because I can then place a screw anywhere, and easy to remove panes if I need to. Probably drywall ceiling, although insulated panels with silver finish have appeal. Walls and ceiling will be insulated. Will heat with propane...probably a Rexnor unit.

The plan shows the machine, bench, and DC layout. I will be running ductwork under the slab for the jointer, TS, and to the workbench. I will cover the router table with the Workbench or Table Saw port. Same with a sweeper for general floor cleaning.

The planer/CMS station will allow swapping out my DeWalt DW735 planer and DeWalt CMS.

The machines on the west wall will have mobile bases to allow repositioning to handle situations where longer stock demands it. The south bench will have an air compressor and hose reel built in.

The open area on the SE is required for now to keep my lawn tractor and snowblower. In the future I will build a shed to store these so I have room for expansion for a shaper and who knows ;). There will be no water as I can't justify $8,000 for another well. I will just use a 5 gallon water bottle for any water needs.

2) Lighting: I bought 27 four bulb eight foot fixtures off craigslist for $100...with bulbs :D...and I plan to make use of them. These 50 y/o eyes need light. All have reflectors except those that are mounted under the cabinets at the planer station and south wall bench. The color codes show the zones I plan...each will be switched separately and on their own circuit. Task lighting will be fixed at the drill press, band saw, and mortiser.
I also have a mobile halogen light for other needs

3) Electrical: Pretty self explanatory except the workbench will have a quad 110v outlet above it in the ceiling. The jointer and table saw will be run under the slab. The garage will have separate metered service...too far from the house which is why its unused. Planning 150A service panel.

Anyway, any critiques and suggestions are appreciated. Work starts in the spring...it's way too cold now!

[Jim Becker]

Sure you want your dust collection system right next to your finishing area??? ;) Also consider if you might put your CMS bench, wood rack and where you bring material into the shop in closer proximity.

[Michael Gibbons]

I don't know if these machine placement are written in stone, but I would move the TS about three feet closer to the wood rack. I counted 7 feet between the TS and your planer. For sheet goods you'll need 8 ft min. Maybe more if you tend to stand to the rear of the sheet when cutting. Also, you might want to place the table saw duct work under the slab if possible just to have it out of the way.

....................Mike

[George Bregar]

Sure you want your dust collection system right next to your finishing area??? ;) Also consider if you might put your CMS bench, wood rack and where you bring material into the shop in closer proximity. Thanks for the input Jim. I thought about that also...I likely will wall the finishing room off. However, when I'm finishing I won't be working.

I have no problem with the rest. The wood will be stored near the garage door, where it enters the shop. The is significant room to maneuver long boards and sheet goods there. I will have a mobile cart. The CMS bench is also for my planer...both will be dropped into the center of that bench to utilize it as an infeed/outfeet for the planer, and support for the CMS. I would rather have it closer to the jointer and table saw.

[richard poitras]

Not sure what your long term plans are but if you are closing your walls in I would put in a couple of extra 220 plugs . I have found that I have expanded and change my shop around a lot, as in once you start to work in them, you sometimes change your mind as to the work flow and what you need and if you ever need to upgrade some of the equipment you will have the 220 in place…good luck

[George Bregar]

I don't know if these machine placement are written in stone, but I would move the TS about three feet closer to the wood rack. I counted 7 feet between the TS and your planer. For sheet goods you'll need 8 ft min. Maybe more if you tend to stand to the rear of the sheet when cutting. Also, you might want to place the table saw duct work under the slab if possible just to have it out of the way.

....................Mike You wouldn't need that much space...as the fence would be 3' or so to the edge of the table saw...no? And I have 10' behind the TS. I don't work on sheet goods all that much anyway, and tend to cut them to rough size with a circular saw and a cool straightedge jig I have.

As stated, I do plan to run the DC and electric to both the jointer and TS under the slab. Smart minds think alike! :D

[George Bregar]

Not sure what your long term plans are but if you are closing your walls in I would put in a couple of extra 220 plugs . I have found that I have expanded and change my shop around a lot, as in once you start to work in them, you sometimes change your mind as to the work flow and what you need and if you ever need to upgrade some of the equipment you will have the 220 in place…good luck Also thought of that, but where to put them? Maybe just pull the wire to likely locations on each of the walls and not termiinate. Should be pretty simple to unscrew the OSB and finish later if I need to. Thanks!

[Brett Baldwin]

I would consider putting the extra 220V outlets on the west and south walls. There is always the possibility of an upgrade in the future, say for instance a good sized lathe. Speaking of which, I take it from its orientation in the picture that you are a lefty.:)

[George Bregar]

I would consider putting the extra 220V outlets on the west and south walls. There is always the possibility of an upgrade in the future, say for instance a good sized lathe. Speaking of which, I take it from its orientation in the picture that you are a lefty.:) West yes...not so sur of south with the bench work. As far as the lathe orientation...DOH! :D

[Don Bullock]

First, congratulations on your shop space. That's exactly what I hope to be able to do within the next two-three years.

I guess I'm uncertain why you have so much open space between the wood rack and the table saw. It seems to be "wasted space" to me.:confused:

Your DC placement seems a little strange to me as well. I'd put it with in a closet in the corner where your router table is if not in a different room off the back of the building.

[George Bregar]

First, congratulations on your shop space. That's exactly what I hope to be able to do within the next two-three years.

I guess I'm uncertain why you have so much open space between the wood rack and the table saw. It seems to be "wasted space" to me.:confused: Thanks. I currently have a lawn tractor/trailer and snow blower that I have to accomodate in that area. In the winter i also store my deck furniture. Someday I will build a shed for them, and can branch off the DC to that area for future machines.

[Tim Marks]

I would put the jointer on the other side of the tablesaw, flush against it, and push the TS/Jointer more to the North to give you space between the jointer and workbench.

My reasoning is that I find myself walking around the (north) left side of the TS frequently or putting roller supports there when ripping sheet goods, and your jointer would probably be in an awkward spot. I have never walked around the (south) right side of the TS, so it seems like a better spot for the jointer. Of course, then your planer is further away from your jointer, so maybe just flip your TS around 180 degrees so you feed it from the east side instead of the west side.

CMS/planer swapping out? You thinking about one of those tables that rotates, or are you going to pick them up every time? The DW735 is about 100#, which is about 40# more then what I call portable... (actually 85# more then my doctor tells me is portable now that I ruined my back :eek:). With the space that you have, I would think about a more permanent setup for the planer... maybe it is just me, but I shove wood through there even when maybe I don't have to because it is fun:p.

I would build a closet in the corner for the cyclone DC to keep it quiet and make it big enough to stick my stationary air compressor in.

Think about future expansion and put a few 220V outlets in your west wall and maybe one behind the workbench on your south wall. Maybe someday you will replace (or supplement) your 12" BS with a 16-19" BS... you might want to put a 220V outlet there. And you might add an edge sander or something else, so maybe it would be smart to put a 220V outlet behind where you have your mortiser.

[George Bregar]

I would put the jointer on the other side of the tablesaw, flush against it, and push the TS/Jointer more to the North to give you space between the jointer and workbench.

My reasoning is that I find myself walking around the (north) left side of the TS frequently or putting roller supports there when ripping sheet goods, and your jointer would probably be in an awkward spot. I have never walked around the (south) right side of the TS, so it seems like a better spot for the jointer. Of course, then your planer is further away from your jointer, so maybe just flip your TS around 180 degrees so you feed it from the east side instead of the west side.

CMS/planer swapping out? You thinking about one of those tables that rotates, or are you going to pick them up every time? The DW735 is about 100#, which is about 40# more then what I call portable... (actually 85# more then my doctor tells me is portable now that I ruined my back :eek:). With the space that you have, I would think about a more permanent setup for the planer... maybe it is just me, but I shove wood through there even when maybe I don't have to because it is fun:p.

I would build a closet in the corner for the cyclone DC to keep it quiet and make it big enough to stick my stationary air compressor in.

Think about future expansion and put a few 220V outlets in your west wall and maybe one behind the workbench on your south wall. Maybe someday you will replace (or supplement) your 12" BS with a 16-19" BS... you might want to put a 220V outlet there. And you might add an edge sander or something else, so maybe it would be smart to put a 220V outlet behind where you have your mortiser. The reason I have the jointer there is to use the infeed/outfeed from the planer station when jointing...but think that flipping the TS around is a good idea. As far as the planer station, I will be just placing the planer or CMS as needed. Each will have plywood base that will make them flush with the counter. I know the DW735 is heavy. But the amount of swapping will be minimal, I'm a pretty big guy, and if/when it becomes a problem I will build a CMS station N to S to the right.

Are the cyclones so loud that a closet is necessary? And my compressor will be contained under the bench on the south wall so some noise will be suppressed. I really don't use it much anyway...occasionally drive brads is all. I need to keep the finishing area where it is to keep it out of the shop. I could wall it and the DC off (separtely) though.

[Daryl Upole]

I regret the drywall on my shop walls - I'd definitely go with osb or whatever the building dept would allow. In one small area, I actually used some pine boards that I picked up cheap (used rabbeted overlapped joints to allow for movement) and really like that. On the electric, I'd go with exposed conduit. It would be very easy to change in the future. More time & work now - and a little more $$ - but I found that my best plan was to allow for maximum future flexibility.

Wall space, I'm mixed on. I have two overhead doors and lots of windows. Sometimes, I don't like losing the wall space. But, I'm really happy with the access, openness in summer, and light. I feel more part of the world when I'm in the shop that way.

[Bob Antoniewicz]

The workflow seems ok except for the distance between the wood rack and the primary machines.

You do not leave a lot of space between machines to walk with wood in hand. It seems that there is a mere 2' between the CMS and Jointer and between the jointer and table saw. You might want to turn around the table saw so that when you bring a sheet of ply you don't have to squeeze it past the workbench to set it on the saw. And if I count correctly, you'll almost have to be between the sander and the mortiser to fit when you are setting that ply first down on the saw.

I have always liked the setup with the router table on the side of the saw, and that would allow room for the DC to be in the corner which would put it closer to the Sander which is probably your worst offender. Also you'd only have to put up 2 walls instead of 3 to enclose it.

Wish I could see how to put the workbench nearer the windows. Nice to work in natural light.

If you have a chance, I'd suggest a few more 220 sockets for future use.

I love the idea of putting up OSB for walls. There is a version of OSB with foil on one side for radiation barrier. If you can squeeze 1/2" to 3/4" airspace behind it, it would really help with the heat either entering or leaving (if that's a problem where you live - I live in the desert).

You show 17 4- bulb 4' flourescent lights not counting the workspace ones. Believe it or not, there is such a thing as too much light. I have 7 4-bulb 4' fixtures and 4 2-bulb 4' fixtures in a shop with white semigloss paint and average 10' ceilings. When I first turned it on at night it looked like Close Encounters from outside. But flourescent lights dim some over time. It is still plenty bright in there. My shop is 24'x30'. You can always not install bulbs to cut back.

You might see what it looks like if you situate the machines along the west wall at an angle to allow for material flow through them.

Don't know if you have a 110 in the ceiling by the garage for an opener.

The only other thing I can think of is room for a refrigerator for the beer you'll be serving for all your shop admirers.

Cool shop!

Bob A.

[Art Mulder]

Are the cyclones so loud that a closet is necessary? And my compressor will be contained under the bench on the south wall so some noise will be suppressed.

"necessary" is up to you. I don't have a cyclone, just a 2HP single-bag DC and it is pretty darn loud. I don't have a big compressor, just your basic PC pancake compressor, and it is possibly louder than my DC.

With a shop the size of yours, I would certainly give some thought to walling off the DC+Compressor in a closet. I've seen it done in many other shops posted here and on other forums, and it really seems like a good idea.

...art

[Larry Nall]

I have to agree with Bob. Seventeen four-bulb fixtures seems like a lot.
I'm building a 26x34 shop and just getting to the interior. I'm using twelve four-bulb t-8 fixtures. The ceiling is half in and I've got four of the fixtures up. Seems like its going to be plenty.

I'm also using OSB for the ceiling and siding. I used 1/4" on the ceiling. The pluses, it's real cheap. It's light and easy to work with. The minuses, you have to use a bunch of screws to keep it from sagging, and it soaks up paint like a sponge.

I'll have to use thicker OSB on the walls. The quarter inch likely won't hold a screw much better than sheet rock.

[Dwayne Watt]

With 8' ceilings you need to shield the light fixtures to minimize the potential for breakage (particularly fluorescents). Good luck with the new shop. It will be a fun project.

[George Bregar]

Thanks Bob, Art, Larry, et al. Here are the revisions based on comments and additional thoughts.

Eliminated the finishing room, moving the DC into the corner. I can then wall it off. I will simply do finishing in the east side of the shop. I don't work wood when finishing, and have used a garage in the past with good results...even when spraying with the HVLP turbine set-up.

Drum sander then can be moved closer to the DC.

Eliminated counter on south wall...I will have more than enough storage, and like the workbench by the windows, natural light, and low angle light that is necessary for finish work. Better (and cheaper) than counters are mobile carts that can be moved where I need them...they will be the height of the machines so they can be used for out/infeed if required. Eliminating counters also opens up space between machines for material or cart movement. I am a hobbyist, so access is more important than proximity. I don't mind walking to get something (and we are not talking very far) but not having room drives me NUTS!

West wall will be used to hang TS and RT jigs. Cabinets and drawers above below planer station. Tool storage chest on South wall will also hold my compressor and reel hose to access to assembly area and workbench. All machines will have cabinet for applicable storage (drill press- drill bits, router table-router bits, table saw-blades, etc.

Added some additional 220V, and overhead 110V is now in the assembly/finishing area.

Thinking about the lights.

[Don Bullock]

That looks great to me. I even printed out a copy to go in my "shop ideas" book that I'm making. Like you, work flow isn't as important as space utilization for me. I hope it all works out for you.:D

[Bob Antoniewicz]

Does the dashed green line indicate under-floor DC? If so, you might try to figure out a way to lay out your tools as you show in the plan. Give it a walk through with as large a stick as you think you'll use, and again with a sheet of ply. This would help you confirm your thoughts on the layout or maybe adjust it. Under-floor utilities are great unless they are in the wrong place.

Counting the squares from the tablesaw blade to the bandsaw shows 7 squares. If each of those are one foot, you won't be able to fit a 4'x8' sheet of plywood on the infeed side of the tablesaw.

Jointer is still quite close to the CMS.

Still no refrigerator??? :)

Bob A.

[George Bregar]

Does the dashed green line indicate under-floor DC? If so, you might try to figure out a way to lay out your tools as you show in the plan. Give it a walk through with as large a stick as you think you'll use, and again with a sheet of ply. This would help you confirm your thoughts on the layout or maybe adjust it. Under-floor utilities are great unless they are in the wrong place. Yes it does. Going to cut thru the slab and put ductwork and electric under the slab. I will fine tue the positioning, and flex hosefrom the floor to machine will compensate for anything more.


Counting the squares from the tablesaw blade to the bandsaw shows 7 squares. If each of those are one foot, you won't be able to fit a 4'x8' sheet of plywood on the infeed side of the tablesaw. I have 10' behind the blade to the wall. The BS is on a mobile base if I need to move it I can. I seldom cut full sheet goods. So it's okay.


Jointer is still quite close to the CMS. 3 feet should be good me thinks. I'd rather keep the distance between the TS and bench.


Still no refrigerator??? :) I have one in the cottage, and will have a big ole Morris Chair for my big ole butt. But I'll keep it in mind! ;)

[Nancy Laird]

Not sure what your long term plans are but if you are closing your walls in I would put in a couple of extra 220 plugs . I have found that I have expanded and change my shop around a lot, as in once you start to work in them, you sometimes change your mind as to the work flow and what you need and if you ever need to upgrade some of the equipment you will have the 220 in place…good luck

I would also make sure to have a 220 outlet near where you currently have your lathe. You might want to upgrade to a 220 unit one of these days!

Edit: Oops, sorry. didn't see the modified plan until after I posted this. And I see you followed my advice. :D

Nancy

[Steven Beam]

What software did you use for your floor plan. I've been looking for something similar. Thanks

[George Bregar]

What software did you use for your floor plan. I've been looking for something similar. Thanks I just used Grizzly's Work Shop Planner application http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx and then PrintScreened and pasted it into MS Paint. So unless you are on a Mac you're all set.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Please consider changing to a 10' ceiling. I went with 8' and I kick myself every time I walk in the door.:o You get much more versatility in project selection. It is also much easier to handle 4X8 sheet goods. Money well spent IMHO.

[George Bregar]

Please consider changing to a 10' ceiling. I went with 8' and I kick myself every time I walk in the door.:o You get much more versatility in project selection. It is also much easier to handle 4X8 sheet goods. Money well spent IMHO. Well, not sure how I'm going to lift the roof up while I put in higher walls. ;) Seriously, it's and existing garage. So 8' it is.

[John Maus]

George,

Nice planning on upcoming shop. I'll be following you through the construction, hope you keep us posted. How did the Grizzly planner work for you? Did it have all the equipment you needed for your shop? Just a brief look at it seemed like some critical wood shop items were missing. Did you have to do any work-arounds with planner?

Good Luck

John

[George Bregar]

George,

Nice planning on upcoming shop. I'll be following you through the construction, hope you keep us posted. How did the Grizzly planner work for you? Did it have all the equipment you needed for your shop? Just a brief look at it seemed like some critical wood shop items were missing. Did you have to do any work-arounds with planner?

Good Luck

John Thanks John. It had most...I did some substitution...IIRC I used a shaer in place of a router table...look similar and the footprint was same or at least close. I then did a screen print and dropped it into MS paint to add dust collection porting, and electrical circuit info (which I didn't post).

What do think is missing?

[John Maus]

George,

I did what you did without a specific workbench icon (just used a counter top and sized it to match my bench). I was also looking for a radial arm saw and a miter saw but didn't find them. Might just be looking too quickly. I used a shaper ILO router table and sized it to match also. Thanks for the tip on dropping design into other programs to make final adjustments.

John

[George Bregar]

George,

I did what you did without a specific workbench icon (just used a counter top and sized it to match my bench). I was also looking for a radial arm saw and a miter saw but didn't find them. Might just be looking too quickly. I used a shaper ILO router table and sized it to match also. Thanks for the tip on dropping design into other programs to make final adjustments.

John Oh, I thought you meant stuff was missing from my plan. There is no CMS, I didn't need one for planning as I will be swapping it in and out at my planer station. I don't have a RAS. It's a nice application, easier and faster to use than SketchUp...which I have d/l'ed and am playing with.

The build out starts this spring, a little cold now. I will be a little busy replacing all the plumbing in my lake home...burst pipes from freeze up..and walls, ceilings, carpet, washing machine... :mad:. Thankfully, insurance will cover it...$10K! :D

[John Maus]

Oh, I thought you meant stuff was missing from my plan. There is no CMS, I didn't need one for planning as I will be swapping it in and out at my planer station. I don't have a RAS. It's a nice application, easier and faster to use than SketchUp...which I have d/l'ed and am playing with.

The build out starts this spring, a little cold now. I will be a little busy replacing all the plumbing in my lake home...burst pipes from freeze up..and walls, ceilings, carpet, washing machine... :mad:. Thankfully, insurance will cover it...$10K! :D

Sorry George,

Didn't mean to sound like I was making a critique of your tool choices. I like your layout it was my unfamiliarity with the Griz layout tool I was meaning to show.

Good luck on the lake home (insurance payments don't seem as bad when you need to make a claim...)

John

[Eric Haycraft]

Congrats on the new shop.
Regarding your underfloor DC, you may want to use concrete trenches and cover those with wood. That would allow you to modify where the ports come out of the floor and add/change electrical points in the floor. It would also give you access to the ducts if a bad clog happens.

Also, I fear that the plan may be a bit tough to work with longer boards without moving machines around. For instance the DP in the corner may be problematic and there doesn't seem to be a lot of room around the router table for longer boards. Have you considered clustering some machines. Say for instance putting the BS, DP, and router table back to back in a triangular shape away from the wall. You could also free up some space by butting the jointer or planer against the table saw. This would give you around 8 feet infeed/outfeed for the TS/Jointer/Planer/DP/Router/BS and never have to move one to do an operation. I made a sketch with the grizzly tool (awesome link btw. thanks) but don't know how to post it up here.

Eric

[George Bregar]

Congrats on the new shop.
Regarding your underfloor DC, you may want to use concrete trenches and cover those with wood. That would allow you to modify where the ports come out of the floor and add/change electrical points in the floor. It would also give you access to the ducts if a bad clog happens. I was planning 6" PVC so I wouldn't think clogs are likely. My concern is burrowing animals if it's simply laid in and covered. This garage is in the north woods. But concrete trenches, that might be a good idea.


Also, I fear that the plan may be a bit tough to work with longer boards without moving machines around. For instance the DP in the corner may be problematic and there doesn't seem to be a lot of room around the router table for longer boards. Have you considered clustering some machines.

Say for instance putting the BS, DP, and router table back to back in a triangular shape away from the wall. You could also free up some space by butting the jointer or planer against the table saw. This would give you around 8 feet infeed/outfeed for the TS/Jointer/Planer/DP/Router/BS and never have to move one to do an operation. I made a sketch with the grizzly tool (awesome link btw. thanks) but don't know how to post it up here.

Eric The machines on the west wall will all have mobile bases so the can be repositioned if required, and let's face it, most work on them is for shorter stock. But by moving them off the wall a foot or two I know have significant space. I don't mind this for these tools, they are not used that often. This allows more than enough infeed/outfeed where it's often needed: TS, planer/CMS station, and jointer. It also keeps the east side open for assembly and finishing, and for the short term, snowblower and lawn tractor storage.

[Michael Morocco Jr.]

I recently was setting up my shop and my electrical guru friend suggested I use conduit for reasons of expansion. He told me to put a 4x4 box where ever I wanted and then we would pipe them all and run them all to a sub panel.

The beauty of this is

A: Not having to cut drywall around all those work boxes. (I hate finishing drywall.)
B: If you need another outlet, just add another box and pipe it in.
C: If you sell a machine... (I know, what would you be thinking to sell tools..) I mean upgrade to a much bigger tool and put the other in storage, you can simply remove the box and disconnect the wiring.

When you run electric work boxes in the studs and drywall, your stuck with what you have and it seems like things are never in the perfect place...

Just one mans thoughts....:cool:

[George Bregar]

I recently was setting up my shop and my electrical guru friend suggested I use conduit for reasons of expansion. He told me to put a 4x4 box where ever I wanted and then we would pipe them all and run them all to a sub panel.

The beauty of this is

A: Not having to cut drywall around all those work boxes. (I hate finishing drywall.)
B: If you need another outlet, just add another box and pipe it in.
C: If you sell a machine... (I know, what would you be thinking to sell tools..) I mean upgrade to a much bigger tool and put the other in storage, you can simply remove the box and disconnect the wiring.

When you run electric work boxes in the studs and drywall, your stuck with what you have and it seems like things are never in the perfect place...

Just one mans thoughts....:cool: Not sure if I mentioned it but I won't drywalling, the walls will be OSB. i will drywall the ceiling but have access. So pulling a panel and accessing the ceiling will be pretty simple tasks.

I am oulling spare dedicated runs to specific areas of the shop for future 240V runs or switchovers, and my planer is on a dedicated circuit so it too can be changed over to 240 by swapping the breaker and changing the receptical. I don't think that the extra cost of running a lot of conduit etc makes any sense at all.

[Bart Leetch]

I would like to have a shop the size of yours.

I tend to think of work flow where the material is on the opposite end of the shop from where the finished item will exit. I would arrainge the machines to accommodate this flow.

I also like to have the DC or cyclone next to a door so when it needs to be emptied you don't have to drag it all the way through the shop right in the middle of a project when the shop is at its most crowded condition.

The other idea is to put the DC & air-compressor in a closet on the outside of the shop wall this makes for a much quieter shop, this also makes for more room in the shop.

[Kevin Mishler]

I'm amazed at how much thought and time you've put into this, great job.

I'm blown away that anyone has an 'unused 3 car garage' :confused: but that worked out great.

I have to ask though; is there an existing concrete floor in place? How will you get the DC pipe in the floor?

I hope to see a finished tour. When will you start this project?

Take care,
Kevin

[Rob Will]

I think this looks good.
I would put the jointer on the other side of the table saw and share a DC drop for these two machines.
Put a power post from floor to ceiling between the jointer and table saw.
On this post put some outlets down low for your machines and some outlets above table height for misc. work in the center of the shop. A good place for an air outlet as well.

This would allow you to have one drop location in the center of the room....With DC in the floor you can't move anything......ever. There is no way I would saw an existing concrete floor just to put DC in it. You might be able to run a DC line in the attic to keep a clean look and maintain your headroom.

I like the open floor space near the door. I also think you would gain even more space by backing that jointer up against something.....like the right side of your table saw:D.

Rob

[George Bregar]

I would like to have a shop the size of yours.

I tend to think of work flow where the material is on the opposite end of the shop from where the finished item will exit. I would arrainge the machines to accommodate this flow. I have to be honest, that makes no sense at all to me. This isn't an assembly line. My logic in the design is based on first the physical constraints of the existing shop. The doors are where they are at. So the wood storage is near the door. I don't want to have to go through the shop to store it. So in the garage door right to the stacking area. That area will remain "open" so that I have room to select boards when I start a project.

After that I had to have plenty of room for the main machines I use most often, an always seem to require it...TS, planer, jointer, and CMS. That I have done. Large infeed/outfeed areas for all. And all close together, especially the jointer/TS.

The secondary machines are against the wall...they can be used in place when working with short stuff, which is most common, or rolled out a few feet for long stuff. That wall will be pegged for hanging jigs etc.

Once all the cutting etc is done, back to the open area for assembly and finishing. Again, space is important.

Works for me.


I also like to have the DC or cyclone next to a door so when it needs to be emptied you don't have to drag it all the way through the shop right in the middle of a project when the shop is at its most crowded condition.

The other idea is to put the DC & air-compressor in a closet on the outside of the shop wall this makes for a much quieter shop, this also makes for more room in the shop. The DC is as close to the door as i can get it. It is opposite the garage door. And that area will be open when I'm making dust, only crowded when I'm in assembly mode. And while it would be great to have it outside the shop, extending the building is not financially viable. I may wall it off which will help with the noise. My AC compressor will be near the workbench, ultimately in a built in which will help with the noise but it rarely gets used. That location will allow me to use a hose reel.

[George Bregar]

I'm amazed at how much thought and time you've put into this, great job. Not much else to do on these long, cold WI winter nights! :D


I'm blown away that anyone has an 'unused 3 car garage' :confused: but that worked out great. The garage is at my lake home. Because of the topography, lot lines, and original driveway it is 200' away from the house, and approximately 50' higher in elevation. Still surprised? :) And it is actually just unused for cars...it has a lawn tractor and snowblower in it. In the past it had a ton of junk...three roll-offs worth to be exact. ;) Still a roll-off left, but that will be taken care off soon.


I have to ask though; is there an existing concrete floor in place? How will you get the DC pipe in the floor?

I hope to see a finished tour. When will you start this project?

Take care,
Kevin Yes there is a existing slab. Needs to be cleaned however. Good shape except one area has spalding, which I'll patch. I will just cut the concrete, take it up, and trench a channel. Lay in some PVC for dust and electric, and then concrete over it. Sure sounds easy when I describe it. Guess because I left out the busting up part. :D

Work starts in spring, Keep in mind "spring" is a relative term in northern WI. ;) I'll probably start the electrical rough in in March/April. I'll post along the way, because I'm sure that I will need the advice of Creeker's!

[George Bregar]

I think this looks good. but... ;)


I would put the jointer on the other side of the table saw and share a DC drop for these two machines.
Put a power post from floor to ceiling between the jointer and table saw.
On this post put some outlets down low for your machines and some outlets above table height for misc. work in the center of the shop. A good place for an air outlet as well. I really don't want the jointer away from the planer, or planer stations. One, planer to jointer is a frequent requirement. Second, I can use the planer infeed/out feed to hold stock when jointing multiples. Putting it on the other side also causes issues with ripping sheet stock as has been pointed out. And I may decide to forego a router able and hang it off my table saw...a jointer there would preclude that.

The shop is clear span now, I really don't want to have to put any posts in, especially in areas that long stock will be handled.


This would allow you to have one drop location in the center of the room....With DC in the floor you can't move anything......ever. There is no way I would saw an existing concrete floor just to put DC in it. You might be able to run a DC line in the attic to keep a clean look and maintain your headroom.

I like the open floor space near the door. I also think you would gain even more space by backing that jointer up against something.....like the right side of your table saw:D.

Rob I have no problem channeling the floor, it's better than a post or tripping on stuff. But I see where some of the responses are coming from, I've talked about changes but haven't posted the new plan. Here it is... the