Removing Japaning and post electrolysis clean-up

[Mark Vayman]

Hi everyone,
I've been lurking around here for quite a while now soaking every last bit of information on hand-planes. A few weeks ago I've made the plunge and bought a couple of planes on eBay (a #4 and a #5). I am slowly trying to restore them, and I tried removing the rust using the electrolysis process described in one of the recent threads.
I would like to ask what is a good way to remove japaning left over after electrolysis. Also, while the electrolysis left virtually no rust, the metal now how a brown shade to it – any suggestions on how to get it back to original color would be also very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark.

[Jim Koepke]

I would like to ask what is a good way to remove japaning left over after electrolysis. Also, while the electrolysis left virtually no rust, the metal now how a brown shade to it – any suggestions on how to get it back to original color would be also very much appreciated.

Not sure about the remaining Japanning, I think the brown might be what others have referred to as "flash rusting." After the casting is taken out of the electrolysis bath and cleaned, you have very reactive, ion hungry, iron on your hands. This is why there is usually a suggestion of giving an immediate coat of wax or oil.
I have not done any electrolysis of yet. You may be able to clean this up with some steel wool. If this looks like it is doing the job, you could likely put some oil on the steel wool after getting most of it off, then continue rubbing with the oily steel wool. Wipe it down with a cloth after that.

Good luck,

Jim

"It's kind of fun to do the impossible."
- Walt Disney (1901-1966)

[Alex Carrera]

Flash rusting sounds like the issue. I know that mine have a dull gray appearance after taking them out and oiling them immediately. I think it's some phosphate reaction, or something like that. Anyway, the only plane I repainted I blasted with walnut shell grit. I would think that a wire brush would work well.

[Steve Clardy]

I use a water based paint stripper after the electrolysis if the japanning is still clinging.


I use a 3M green buffing wheel on a grinder motor to polish them up

[M Toupin]

Electrolysis will remove japanning, leave it in the bath longer. Electrolysis will eventually remove almost anything, from crud to paint to rust and there's no danger of over cleaning. The Brown shade is flash rusting. As soon as you remove the plane from the Electrolysis bath scrub it down with a wire brush or scotch bright pad under hot water (as hot as you can stand) and dry it off immediately. The hot water helps evaporate the moisture quicker and prevent the rusting. A shot or two of compressed air helps out too.

Mike

[Anchor Sarslow]

I have been using a small brass wire brush to remove the gunk. I dont leave my parts in the bath long enough to remove japaning. If it is over 80% I leave the old stuff on and use it as is that way.

I then rinse it in hot water as previously suggested. After I get it good and dry I squirt it down with WD-40 till I can get the rest of the parts done. I have had no problems with flash rusting. THough I should note that once all my parts are de-rusted I go at it with some 240 Wet-O-Dry and then re-spray the parts till I can get to tuning all the parts.

I try not to give anything an opportunity to rust further.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Mark, as others have mentioned this is "flash rust" but it is only on the surface. A good rub down with steel wool or a scotch brite pad and mineral spirits will get rid of it. I would not get rid of any Japanning. Dry your plane with a hair dryer after it has been cleaned (using hot water and wire brush). You can use WD-40 as an immediate protective coating, in the long run just use regular machine oil on all parts except the bottom, where you can use paste wax.

[Mark Vayman]

Thanks for all the replies. Following your suggestions, I just scrubbed the rust off with a scotch brite pad, and sprayed some Bostic topcop protective spray I had been using for my table saw. Everything looks nice and clean now.
Regards,
Mark