Pen Question #6--Finishing Wenge Pens

[Dean Thomas]

Like most of my questions, they come with a story. This one is no different. I'm also in touch off-forum with Jon Lanier about this issue. Looking everywhere for solutions.

Did the last of my Christmas turning yesterday afternoon (well, ALmost the last; sigh), finishing 3 pens for close personal friends from church. Two in Spanish olive and one in wenge. Got one olive done and assembled and the second one done with finish applied but not final sanded. And I got the third one in wenge turned and all but the last two coats of thick CA applied (CA finishes on all 3). Went to the last Christmas party of the year, left early, came home expecting to get in the shop and finish up in 30-45 minutes and be done for the night. That was 10:15pm. At 2:15, I could not get the wenge finish to work to save my neck. I sanded it off, cleaned it off, recoated, same issues arose. That blank has had 4 different runs at the CA finish and all failed.

The failures look like bubbles of varying sizes under the CA coating. If you've done epoxy finishes on floors and had an area "release" or if you've seen bubbles under the ice that forms on puddles, you have seen what I saw. Some were little tiny things that looked like bubbles trapped in a wood pore or even just a little bit of wood fluff under the surface. Others were almost 1/2" in length, wrapping about 1/2 the pen. Very, very disheartening when the rest of it looked sooooooo good.

Do any of you successfully use CA finishes on wenge? If so, what's your method, please?

And if you don't use CA on wenge because of this, what finish do you use? Details on any special application would be appreciated.

Always and ever looking for ways to make 'em better! :)

[Bill Bolen]

Not sure if I'm correct, but isn't Wenge a pretty oily wood? Somewhat like Teak? If so you might have to clean the wood with Acetone and then finish, hope this helps...Bill

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dean on pens that have oily wood I clean with mineral spirits and wipe it down good. I either use spray can lacquer or Enduro sanding sealer followed by Enduro poly. I will tell you Enduro does take longer to apply and you can't get in a hurry but it gives good durable finish.

[Dean Thomas]

Durable is certainly one of the features that I'm looking for, Bernie. That's why I've learned the CA finish that I'm using. It works pretty easily (on most woods, anyhow), and it's usually not difficult or overly time consuming to apply. Certainly not as fast as finishing acrylics or Corian, but if I get in a rhythm, I can get lots done between pens and other stuff.

Debubbling the wenge though, really put a dent in my timelines. :eek:

[Bernie Weishapl]

I don't have a time line Dean so thats why the enduro system works for me. If I have to get into a production mode I will walk away from turning. I don't need or want deadlines as I have enough of them at work. When I get there I get there. I figure it takes me 2 days to do pens. One day for the sanding sealer to dry good and one day for the poly to dry and then assemble. The reason I went to Enduro was because the CA fumes just kill my nose and sinus. I can use it on cracks but can't stand there and put 3 or more coats on. Happy New Year.

[Paul Heely]

Dean, I also use Enduro poly as one of my finishes for pens. Enduro does take longer than the CA but I'm very happy with the finish I get and there are no fumes to deal with, the CA fumes also bother me.

When planning I figure 4 days to complete a pen start to finish. If I have show coming up I plan accordingly. If I'm making a special order my standard lead time is 2 weeks. That lets me order anything I don't have on hand and gives me time to make it (twice if need be ;)).

If you want to try some Enduro PM me with your shipping address. I have plenty on hand and would be happy to send you a small bottle of the sealer and finish if you want to try it out.

[Mike Vickery]

Dean,
I have used Wenge a couple times with sucess. I would recomend wipeing the blank down with Acetone or DNA first and sealing the wood with a couple coats of thin CA first before moving to thick for the finish. Dewaxed shellac would be another option to seal the wood before putting the finish on but usually I use the thin CA.
Good luck.

[michael gallagher]

I agree with Mike....use the Acetone. On oily pen blanks, I use a quick acetone bath before gluing the tubes, then wait until the next day to glue the tubes. After I have skinnied the pen blank down, I rub more acetone on it, wait a few more hours before applying the CA finish.

Probably allowing too much time for what I think is the right amount of time for the acetone to "work," but it relieved some of my problems like you experienced. Now if I can just prevent cracking a good pen blank when it's about 98% whittled down.....

[Dean Thomas]

Mike & Michael, ya done good. I did the acetone wipe and the CA stuck like, well, like glue. ;) Felt a huge "doh" come over me as I realized that the wenge is consideres to be an oily wood. As dirty a turn as it was, I would never have guessed it to be an oily or a waxy. But hey, appearances can be deceptive, eh?

I also took some notes from Jon and a local guy who helped educate me about the use of BLO in conjunction with CA and got a super deep and wonderful finish. A new step added to my own version of the CA finish. More ways to skin that cat.

Now I'm going back to the shop and make a new one for the man. I used the original block as my experiment piece and the shape changed way too much to actually use it and gift it, but the finish is gorgeous.

I would offer a picture, but the picture does not do this one justice. Sorry, it's so subtle that it just looks like a black plastic pen in the pic, but not in person. I can't get the grain to show or the finish to glow, so, pictures? No. :D

Thanks for the good help.

[robert hainstock]

Dean, and everybody. I I've never turned Wenge, but yesterday turned a Lignum Vitae pen blank, It is the most waxy wood I've ever worked with. Right now both blanks are taking a long dip in the acetone bath. I,ll let you know how that works out. I use minwax poly for a finish. It doesn't like oily wood either. As to the time thing, I am retired! :)
Bob