best blades for plywood (birch)

[simo sentissi]

Hello there

I am getting tear out when ripping or cross cutting plywood for a bookcase (birch).
any advice on what would be the best blade(s) for both types of cuts ?
also, would some type or zero clearance insert for the circular saw help as well ?

Thanks

[Howard Acheson]

Are you using a table saw or a hand held circular saw? The latter is not a good choice if you need clean cuts across the face veneer of plywood. The back of the blade tends to not quite follow in the kerf which causes the splintering of the veneer. Of course, for the best cut, be sure the "money" side of the plwood is down.

Yes, it is possible to make a type of zero clearance insert for a circular saw. Cut a piece of 1/8" masonite (hardboard) the size of the saw foot. Attach it to the bottom of the foot using double faced carpet tape. Carefully lower the running blade through the masonite.

Caution though, you will not be able to use the retracting blade guard so there is some danger from the blade.

[Dave Falkenstein]

In general, blades with lots of teeth work better on plywood. How many teeth depends on the diameter of your blade.

[Jim Becker]

I'm in agreement with Dave. In my pre-Festool days, I got acceptable results with my old B&D circular saw using a 40t 7 1/4" carbide tipped blade. And Howard also points out something important. When cutting sheet goods with a hand-guided circular saw, you want "good side down"; when cutting sheet goods on a table saw, you want "good side up". It has to do with the way the blade spins relative to entering and exiting the material.

[Bruce Page]

I use a Freud LU80R010 10-Inch 80 tooth.

opps, of course I use the Freud on my tablesaw...:o
As Dave said, the more teeth the better.

[Dan Barr]

Use a good straightedge and place it on the line you want to cut. use a razor or an exacto knife and cut through the veneer. this will take a few cuts unless youre really pressing down hard. score both sides if necessary.

once you finish that, clamp a straight piece of wood on the ply so that it will guide your skilsaw EXACTLY down your line. you'll need to measure the distance from the edge of the skilsaw's guide to the edge of the blade. then place your guide piece accordingly on the plywood.

and as always with a skilsaw Put the show-face side down.

i do this and it gives me perfect cuts with 0-1% tearout.

v/r

dan

[Burt Waddell]

Hello there

I am getting tear out when ripping or cross cutting plywood for a bookcase (birch).
any advice on what would be the best blade(s) for both types of cuts ?
also, would some type or zero clearance insert for the circular saw help as well ?

Thanks

The EZ Smart saw base with a flat insert will do the job and functions as a "zero" clearance insert. Cost is about $30.


Burt

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

NFM blades work well.
There's a few Ghudo blades that can almost eliminate the need for scoring.

[scott spencer]

A high tooth count, Hi-ATB grind will give the cleanest possible cut for moderate quantities....like the LU80R010 Bruce mentioned, an Infinity "Ultrasmooth", Forrest Duraline, etc. If you plan to do a lot of it, I'd go with a high tooth count triple chip grind (TCG).

A ZCI will definitely help reduce tearout, as will scoring the underside first.

[Mark Rios]

I use a Freud LU80R010 10-Inch 80 tooth.

opps, of course I use the Freud on my tablesaw...:o
As Dave said, the more teeth the better.



I second this blade. It was recommended to me here at the Creek and it leaves a perfect edge for both types of cuts. I bought my first one, tried it once, and came right in from my table saw and ordered another one. VERY, VERY nice, clean cut.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU80R010-10-Inch-Ultimate-Melamine/dp/B0007WKBEQ/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1199049231&sr=8-1



The blade shown is (obviously) the non-coated version but the model number sold is for the red coated version. Wrong picture. Follow the instructions on the page for an extra 10% off.




Oh yeah!!!....Like Scott said; Gotta have a good ZCI. Take a look at these from Leecraft and pick the appropriate one for your saw.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_6_0?ie=UTF8&rs=228013&keywords=leecraft&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Aleecraft%2Cp%5F6%3AATVPDKIKX0D ER

[Chris Barnett]

My experience confirms what Dan suggests. Cut throught veneer with sharp, thin knife, on both side if applicable, and using clamped straightedge, saw with outermost tooth edge on the cut line. I have had zero tearout with veneer on the topside and the cutline scored deeply with knife.

[Matt Meiser]

I've seen a shop-made ZCI for a circular saw made by double-stick taping a piece of masonite to the bottom of the saw, then plunging the blade through.

[Tyler Purcell]

A line of blue painter's tape works miracles for tear out. Great for cutting acrylic, too.

[Rob Will]

A line of blue painter's tape works miracles for tear out. Great for cutting acrylic, too.

I agree, a ZCI, an ATB blade and some blue painters tape sould do the trick.

Rob