Joinery for rails and stiles

[Derek Larson]

I am going to make a few cabinets with a raised panel and an applied molding (I saw some at a show room I want to copy) I plan on routing a rabbet to let the panel sit in and then apply the molding over the panel. My question is, am i approaching this the wrong way and if not what type of joinery would you use for the stiles and rails.

[Jim Becker]

There are a number of ways to construct rail and stile panels and doors. Most of the time these days, I am using pocket screws, but for carcass panels, one method I've used is applied faux rails and stiles of 1/4" material over a full sized panel. Careful use of glue and 23 gage pins deal nicely with any wood movement issues. I did this for some of the doors in my kitchen project a few years ago with great success, too.

Another easy to do door assembly (also for carcass panels) is to do a tongue and groove (stub tenon) coped assembly where your panel is machined to fit into the the generally 1/4" groove. This captures the panel, but allows you the flexibility to adjust the thickness of the panel if you want it flush in the back or if you need it thicker to accommodate fasteners for something to be hung inside a cabinet.

As to the applied moldings...very common method over the ages. If your panel is solid stock, only glue to the rails and stiles and if you feel the need to fasten in any way to the panel, use 23 gage pins as they will flex slightly as the wood moves seasonally.

[Marc Prudhomme]

Derek,
Check out this sight.Episode 29(raising arizona).
Good stuff. www.thewoodwhisperer.com (http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com)


Marc

[Ellen Benkin]

Whatever you do, don't trap the panel. It must be able to float to accomodate wood movement.

[William OConnell]

I am going to make a few cabinets with a raised panel and an applied molding (I saw some at a show room I want to copy) I plan on routing a rabbet to let the panel sit in and then apply the molding over the panel. My question is, am i approaching this the wrong way and if not what type of joinery would you use for the stiles and rails.
I wouldnt go that route ( now theres a pun). Just buy a matched rail and style bit from one of the many router bit manufacturers out there. They basically create a stu tenon like Jim alluded to

[Jim Becker]

I wouldnt go that route ( now theres a pun). Just buy a matched rail and style bit from one of the many router bit manufacturers out there. They basically create a stu tenon like Jim alluded to

For a straight profile which is typical of something that will utilize applied moldings, the table saw with a dado blade is easy to set up and doesn't require the purchase of an expensive cope and stick cutter set for the router table. Always do the groove first and run some extra scrap to use as a setup block for fine-tuning the tenon thickness exactly to the width of the groove.