what is best in three wheel buffing system

[John Nowack]

I just recieved one of my x-mas gifts which was the three wheel Beal buffing system on a mandrel. Most of the people I see on TV have the single wheels that you have to change out. What is better. I am second guessng the mandrel set up becuse I wonder if it restricts the size of the piece you can buff. The seperate wheel woud take longer to switch out.

Just looking for some opinions---happy new year

[Ken Fitzgerald]

John.....I have the 3 wheel Beal buffing system. It does cause some little restrictions but at the time I bought it I didn't have time, money or space for an additional buffing station. I bought mine with the #2 morse taper and it worked on my Jet Mini VS and now works on my new PM3520B. Someday I might consider get the separate buffing systems.

[Ben Gastfriend]

I'd have to say ignore the 3-wheel and go with 3 separate buffing wheels with a quick change MT adapter. It's so much easier to not have to worry about running into a different wheel when you are buffing a bowl, and with 3 wheels, Its hard to get inside the bowl or other tight places.

Check out this one or one similar a CSUSA-
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Finishing___Buffing___Wood_Buffing_System___wood_b uff_sys?Args=

[Paul Heely]

John, I have the separate wheels. I wouldn't trade them for the 3 on 1 setup because I think the 3 on 1 would be hard for doing larger items. But, when I do pens, stoppers or other small items I wish I had the 3 on 1 setup. I think the single wheels are more versatile in the range of items they can work with and the 3 on 1 setup is more convenient when working with smaller items.

Which one is best depends on what you are buffing and how much wheel changing you can tolerate.

[Bernie Weishapl]

John I have the 3 wheel system. They are seperate buffing wheels and has a adaptor that fits on my 1750 motor. Each wheel screws into the adapter seperately. I like this system better because you don't have to worry about getting the larger peices caught up in the other wheels.

[Jim Becker]

I prefer the single wheels as it gives me more operating space. (Mine is the Beall) Switching each wheel out only takes a few moments and that also slows the pace to reduce the chance for mistakes and unfortunate events. I would probably like the three wheel version if I were turning a lot of small pieces and wanted to buff "production line" style, however.

[Steve Schlumpf]

John - I have the three separate wheels and they work great for me. I turn larger items and need the additional operating area that the single wheel provides.

[Cyril Griesbach]

I guess I'm a bit out of the ordinary here as I use the three bowl buffs seperately in the 2'' and 3'' with the #2 MT mandrel.

[David Fried]

... Switching each wheel ... slows the pace to reduce the chance for mistakes ...

I got my wheels at a discount because the bag was open and pieces were missing. I hold the shaft for a single wheel in my chuck and use a wrench to remove the nut to change wheels.

I find that extra time spent is invaluable. It slows me down so I look at the work, check the wheels, etc. Good thing I'm not trying to make a living! I think Jim is spot on - that forced break has been very valuable to me.

[jim tracy]

Well, I guess I will add my two cents here too.... I have the three wheel system and use it on my mini when doing small project's (pen's, bottle stoppers, ect...). But for bowls, I purchased Don Pencil's complete system with three 8 inch wheels and it also comes with three - 3" and 4" goblet buff's. The system comes with an 8 inch quick change MT adapter that fit's my lathe. Having the 8 inch quick change MT adapter allows me to reach everywhere I need to. This is one GREAT system!

[Bill Embrey]

I've got the Beal "Three on" wheels and love 'em. I don't have a lot of problems bumping into the adjacent wheels. I also have the Beal 3" bowl buffs for doing bowls. The wheels are useless for the insides of bowls unless they are really shallow - and by definition, that would be a plate/platter :)

When I am going to buff something that might be a problem with all three wheels on, I take two of 'em off... like was mentioned earlier, this makes you slow down and take a good look at what you're doing.

[Dick Strauss]

John,
The solution not mentioned yet is to make a longer 3-in-1 system that is 30-36" long assuming your lathe supports it. This eliminates the sequential buffing wheels from being too close to use on a larger piece without adjustment. This speeds up the whole buffing process and you can leave the 3-in-1 permanently assembled on the rod. It only takes as long as mounting a previously turned spindle between centers to re-mount a longer 3-in-1.

You can make your own longer 3-in-1 by using a 3/4-10 threaded rod (available at Borgs) and adapting it to fit your headstock (1"-8tpi or 1.25"-8tpi to 3/4-10). On the tailstock side, you can use a simple coupler (3/4-10 to 3/4-10) if you have the Oneway Livecenter system. You can also drill a hole in the center of the threaded rod end to make it work with any livecenter. The hole should be smaller than the largest diameter of the livecenter just above the rim (usually just outside the cone) so the rod will bottom on the cone without hitting the rim.

FYI-I have suggested this to JR at Beall but he hasn't decided to produce it yet.

Good luck,
Dick

[Stuart Johnson]

Here is how I made a 3 wheel buff. I only use it if I am buffing a number of small items. I have the separate Beal system and use it for most things. I think it would be easy enough to make by cutting the threaded rod to what ever length you want and holding it in a 4 jaw chuck.

http://lignumturner.com/howto/3Wheelbuff.html

[Dick Strauss]

Stuart,
That a nice solution on the livestock end with the nylon lock nut!:D

IMHO it is easy and better to couple the rod directly to the headstock spindle if it's an option.

Some folks suggest you get more firm wheels for the red/white stages for more aggressive buffing. The sewn wheels also last a lot longer.

If you have an older lathe around, you can keep the buffing system set up all the time.

That's a really nice setup!


Thanks for sharing,
Dick

[John Nowack]

I took back the three on one and I think it was a good decition. I realized I could use the motor from my old craftsman lathe and make a seperate buffing station. I also was gifted the bowl buffs so the seperate 3 wheel system gave me the adapter for those in the kit as well. The motor turns at 1750 which is a little higher than the min. recomended but it is only 1/3 horse. It says you need at least 1/2. I don't see and issue unless I press really hard. do you? happy new year