Router Sled

[Byron Trantham]

Norm has used a router sled for coping that is made by Delta. I finally found it and was wondering if any of you have one and what you think of it. I found three reviews on Amazon and two them were not complementary. Here is a picture of it:

[Scott Coffelt]

I am not sure what it cost, but I would tend to lean towards a cross cut sled or you could even make it yourself. Just use toggle clamps to hold the work down.

[Donnie Raines]

I have not used this item, either. However, I have made a sled that works wonders on the router table. I use it for cop and stick as well as for cutting dado's on certain items. I installed on one of those "cam locking clamps" that holds the board to be cut down. Also, there is a backe that supports the board being cut from pushing back through the cut. Very simple, very inexpensive.

DonnieR

[Byron Trantham]

Thanks Dennis and Scott. I think you are both right. I am going to make one. FWIW, the Delta sled costs $98. ;)

[Jim Stastny]

Make your own. Here's what I did. Take two boards the length you want your sled to be. They ought to be at least 3/4 stock and 2" thick. Clamp each one on either side of the table, with their top edges level with the router table. These are your runners. Now take a sheet of plywood (I used 3/8) and lay it across the table so that it rests on the two boards. Fasten the ply to the boards. Cut the ply flush. The next step take two more sticks of lumber, again, minimum 3/4 stock, 2" tall, lay them across the platform you just built. Attach them to the ends of the runners and across the bottom of the ply, These are your fences. At this step be sure that these final pieces are perpendicular to the runners. Now wax the runners and edge of the router table. Chuck a bit in the router, slide this new sled over the bit. You can attach all kinds of clamps, etc. to customize the table. If you make several, one for each various sized bit you will then have an index mark where the bit will cut. The possiblities of such a table are endless.

Here's a picture

[Jim Becker]

In the current season, he's using a different sled...one that I've seen at various catalog retailers including Eagle American and Hartville Tool. It's the one with the red backer block.

[Byron Trantham]

In the current season, he's using a different sled...one that I've seen at various catalog retailers including Eagle American and Hartville Tool. It's the one with the red backer block.
Yea, Jim I went out and looked at them. What turned me off was the need to buy additional backer blocks. Seems like they have a hook into you. I've been working on a design that seems to be a cross between the Delta unit and American Eagle's. I'll post some pics when I finish.

[Steve Jenkins]

I agree you oughta just make one. I made one out of mdf and a couple toggle clamps in about 5 minutes for my shaper and it works great. If you do different profiles just make a different one for each rather than making the backup piece removable. Steve

[Howie French]

fyi..
this link from FWW shows a video of 2 router jigs w/ hold down clamps being used


http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt046.asp

[Chris Padilla]

Howie,

Thanks for the link...it is always nice to see something in action!

BTW, this very item is on eBay right now.

[Mark Singer]

I made a couple of my own for the router table. Pat Warner has a video clip on Fine Woodworking on the sleds...it is worth watching
Here is the link:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt046.asp

[David Rose]

One thing I don't see on the sled shown is an end stop for the piece being cut. I tried mine without it at first and had difficulty getting a cut at a right angle to the fence. I can't remember why I did this sled this way now. I think I had a reason. :) This one runs on a 1" pattern guide instead of side guides, which does limit the cuts available.

You can see the stop (not in use in the pic) at the top center. In use the dust collecting hood is slid against the wood and the main table hose attached.

David

[Bart Leetch]

Hi David

Could you either show pictures of how your stop is put together or explain it. It looks like you use T track in a slot & ran it under the board your clamps is on & put your bolt through the same board & slide the T track in the slot in the bottom board & under the top baord that has the bolt in it as well as the clamp on top & tighen the bolt. Is this correct?

[David Rose]

Bart, sorry to suggest the need for a stop and then show so little of how mine is done. I think I will post a couple of pics on it tomorrow if they will help.

I threw it together as an after thought in a rush after I found out it was needed, so everything was not too well thought out. It works though.

The T-track sits in a slot in the top of the sled. There is a knob under the overhang of the sled (off the right edge of the table) that is threaded into the track. I can't remember now why I made it removable. It may have been just for storage as the track has no support off the sled and could easily be damaged in handling.

The larger knob on the fence (with the clamp) was to allow the two halves of the fence to be properly spaced to the router guide. The fence at the other end of the sled has the same type adjustment. I wanted the fit loose enough to travel easily yet with no play. It works. The MDF edges are shellaced and there seems to be no wear so far. I really built it for panels that I was having fits getting good grooves and dados cut into, so I don't use it a lot. It is great for shelf dadoes if the sides of the case aren't too unwieldy.

The stop has guide pieces attached to fit into the track to keep it aligned at a right angle to the track. They are on both top and bottom of the stop so that it can be flipped. Since the stop will not go past the end of the fence, there is an extension piece at the top. Flipped, the extension comes into play.

Would pics still help? They could have saved a lot of words. ;) I'll be glad to take and post a couple tomorrow.

David


Hi David

Could you either show pictures of how your stop is put together or explain it. It looks like you use T track in a slot & ran it under the board your clamps is on & put your bolt through the same board & slide the T track in the slot in the bottom board & under the top baord that has the bolt in it as well as the clamp on top & tighen the bolt. Is this correct?

[Bart Leetch]

Thanks David

The response was great. Yes pictures are worth a thousand words. Could you post a few? I am thinking your idea may be useful in other areas of the shop, say on a table-saw sled.

[David Rose]

Thanks David

The response was great. Yes pictures are worth a thousand words. Could you post a few? I am thinking your idea may be useful in other areas of the shop, say on a table-saw sled.

Bart, I think these pics will show what you want. The pics are not too clear. Sorry. The T-track faces up on the sled. The red arrow on one pic shows the end of the threaded stud flush with the inside of the T-track. This is opposite the knob on the bottom and holds the track in the slot. As I mentioned earlier, this portion of the sled hangs off the table so the knob does not interfere. The only thing that doesn't show on the stop is the t-slot nut that runs in the track on the back side. The projections on the face either side of the stop knob allow the stop to be turned over. They keep the stop at a right angle to the track.

Did this get it?

David

[Bart Leetch]

Great shots David thanks.

[Stan Smith]

fyi..
this link from FWW shows a video of 2 router jigs w/ hold down clamps being used


http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt046.asp

I really appreciate seeing that link. I'm just in the process of making some rails and stiles for the firs time and was wondering how I could get a good control on the rail cuts. Fortunately I have only done some test cuts. Guess I'll have to make that 1st jig. The Grrrripper seems to be pretty helpful for the straight grain cuts. THANK YOU!

Stan

[Stan Smith]

I made a couple of my own for the router table. Pat Warner has a video clip on Fine Woodworking on the sleds...it is worth watching
Here is the link:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt046.asp

Un oh. Thanks. I watched the video and made a sled on saturday. My feeble mind didn't allow for: (1) My rail stock being only 1/2", and (2) My bit height was not long enough after adding the 1/4" ply for the sled.

I'm now modifying it by removing the 1/4" ply on the base, adding an arm to pull and hold the stock against the fence, and a hold down piece to keep the stock and backer agains the table surface. I'll post a pic when done--if it works okay.

Stan