Porter Cable 890 router

[Steven Bolton]

Anyone have a Porter Cable 890? I am looking for strictly table use. I read an article in Fine Woodworking that states Triton is the best for table use.

If anyone has an 890 I would be curious to hear how the bit changing and router life work.

Thanks

Steve Bolton

[Greg Heppeard]

I have the Triton 3 1/4 hp in my table, but have used the 890 in other tables. The 890 is a good table router if you only need 2 hp. I do a lot of raised panel work, so I prefer a larger router.

[Dennis Montgomery]

I have one in my router table mounted in a Rockler plate with the above the table crank lift. I like it. With the Rockler lift, I can change the bits from above the table which is a big improvement over the 7529 I used for years. It is a lot quieter than the PC 7529.

I have seen a lot of recommedations for the Triton also, but I have no experience with them.

[Jim Becker]

The 890 is a nice mid-range 12-13 amp router and will work just fine in a table as long as your expectations are not to be swinging large cutters all the time. (Same goes for any other machine in the same class such as the DW618) Honestly, were it me, I'd look to a 15 amp router for this use, especially if it's going to be dedicated. In the long run, it might be the better investment.

[Thom Sturgill]

I have the 890 mounted in a table using the fixed base. I have not done that much work with it yet as I have only had the router three months and it took about a month to get the table built.

While bit changing is OK if you get the offset wrench, I have noticed a tendency to bind if using the base's through-the-table adjustment. I have to apply pressure on one side of the bit to get the router to move up and down smoothly as if it is out of balance. My table checks as level. Someone else claimed that it moved as he closed the lock that prevents the router from moving up and down, making precise setting impossible.

If I find that too big an issue in the future, I see a lift as a 'cure'.

[Dennis Montgomery]

The lift makes all the difference. I was using the through the plate crank with my 7529 and it was always a problem making hairline changes. When I put the fixed base 890 in the rockler lift, it was like moving from a Volkswagon to a Cadillac. I now have complete control over bit adjustment.

As far as the 2 1/4 HP verses higher goes, 3 1/2 is better, but I woodwork for a living and build raised panel doors out of red oak all the time and I have never found a project that my 2 1/4HP router couldn't handle.

[Cody Colston]

I've got an 890 in my table and I also found it difficult sometimes to change the height using the built-in adjustment. Sawdust would get packed in there and make the movement very tight. Eventually, the little screws that hold the geared track onto the router body vibrated out and I guess my DC ate one of them because I never found it.

I made adjustments by hand for a while (fine adjustments were hit-or-miss) and finally got a Roussseau lift a while back for around $87 I believe. I even think it was here that I learned of the Amazon discount and how to get an extra 25% off by buying a $15 engraver. Anyway, it was a good deal.

That Rousseau lift is great. I already had a Rousseau insert and the lift plate fit right in the table top opening. The lift is fast with the supplied crank, has no slop and fine adjustments are a snap.

That 890 series router is soft start, variable speed and maintains it's speed under load. Even at only 2 1/4 hp, it's been more than sufficient for the raised panels I've done on it. For a hobbyist or a home shop, I think it's more than adequate.

[Steven Bolton]

Jim, what 15 Amp router would you look at. I really want a router that has a nice lift. I won't be using bits bigger than the typical cope and rail bits. I don't need huge panel raisers.

Thanks

Steve Bolton

[Cody Colston]

The PC 7518 15 amp 3 1/4 hp Speedmatic is sort of the de facto router for tables. Also, I also see a lot of more frugal folks that have the Hitachi M12V 3 1/4 hp router.

The PC is around $300 and the Hitachi is now ~$200. The old ones used to sell regularly for $159.

IMHO, if you are just spinning cope and stick bits, then the 3 1/2 hp routers are overkill. Heck, a PC 690 would suffice.

But, if you have the money to spend, bigger is always nicer, I guess. However, using that reasoning, you would forego the router altogether and get a shaper. ;)

[Cory Newman]

I don't personally have one, but a good friend does and he has had a lot of difficulty with it maintaining a consistent depth of cut. He's done the research and apparently its a common problem.

[Steven Bolton]

Cory, you are referring to the Porter Cable 890 aren't you?

Thanks

sb

[Tim Marks]

I have an 890. Mounted the fixed base in a table (like you are describing), since it allows above table adjustments (both height and lock), so theoretically you don't need to buy an expensive lift. The problem is that when I would lock it, it would drop like 1/16-1/32".

So now I have it mounted in a bench dog prolift.

[Chuck Lenz]

These are discourageing stories. I bought a PC 890 last summer with intentions of installing it in a table that I'm finally geting around to building. I thought it would be a sweet deal, aparently not. It would be nice to see PC make this right. The above table adjustment was one of PC's selling points and one of the main reasons I bought it. Never used the router yet, still in the box.

[Steven Bolton]

It seem ironic if Porter Cable is having a problem with the lift. It is one of the big selling features. So you buy an 890 and then have to buy an expensive lift. Not good.

sb

[Mike Henderson]

I have a PC 890 in my router table and have been satisfied with it. I started with the "above the table" adjustments but eventually just started reaching below to do the adjustments. Either way, it's easy.

A bad thing is what Cory mentioned - the sawdust falls down between the motor and the base and causes problems taking the motor out of the base.

I have not experienced any "drop" when clamping the base down. When I make a change in height with the router in the table, then clamp down the base, the height stays at what I set it at.

I think there are many good choices of a router for a table. You won't go wrong with a PC 890 but you won't go wrong with several other brands, either. But do get a variable speed router so you can adjust the speed to the size of the bit.

Mike

[Gene Michael]

I bought a PC 890 to use both free hand and in the table. The manual states to be sure to use the chip shield - there is none. PC says none was made for thios table and that the instructions were just an error. Tryimg to use it freehand would be a great way to lose an eye. In the table, it overheated badly. Contacted PC customer service multiple times - they did nothing except to say that I probably had low voltage. Having checked, this wasn't the case. Finally called a PC service center and was told there was a recall on this model for the overheating. I mailed the motor portion to them (at my cost) and a month later, I received a new motor. No more overheating. I use a Rockler mounting plate that lets me adjust the router's height through access holes in the plate. No problems with this sticking, but the button that locks the shaft for bit removal sticks all the time. My Bosch 1617 is lower power and not variable speed, but it has had no problems.
Hope sharing these experiences helps you with your decision.