new project planning - knockdown bookshelf; questions

[Matt Day]

My girlfriend has requested a knockdown bookshelf and I'm thinking of doing one similar to the one listed on FWW's gallery, made by Steve Latta (picture attached). I'm going to take measurements today of the room and we'll decide on the size, but it will probably be very similar to the size Steve made.

Here's the snippit from FWW:
Style: Custom Design
Type: Bookcases
Materials: Walnut, Pine, Finish Unknown
Dimensions: 10 in. deep by 60 in. wide by 84 in. tall.

Latta says that this knockdown bookshelf can be made in a day. He made this unit using leftover walnut, and white pine. Latta used housed lap joints to give the unit stability and strength. Another feature that adds stability is the shelf spacing, which decreases in 1-in. increments from the bottom to the top.

My plan for the housed lap joints is as shown on the sketchup image attached. Does that make sense? I had also thought of popping a pocket hole in the back of the shelf to attach to the vertical supports; adding a bit of rigidity and strength hopefully.

For making the joints, my plan was to use a router and making the slots for the lap joints all the same size. Then I can plane down the shelves/supports to the right size for a snug/almost tight fit. The stability of the system depends on this interface being good, so I'll be paying close attention to this fit.

Also, if you'll notice on the bottom, the vertical supports are angled. I suppose this is to keep the bookshelf leaning against the wall. Would there be any chance of it sliding out on a wood/hard floor? I thought of attaching small pieces of non-skid material there for security.

Please let me know your comments and suggestions. Thanks!

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Looks pretty slick. I haven’t built a unit using this method so this is just speculation.

I’m not sure the lap joints have to be ultra precise, a little slop may not be that detrimental. Before using pocket screws try a dry fit and see how stable the unit actually is.

As far as slipping on the floor a couple of wall plugs and right angle brackets may resolve this problem.

Don’t forget to post your pictures when it is done.

Have fun.
Greg

[Prashun Patel]

How will you secure it to the wall?
I'd secure the dividers at mid and top span to the wall. This'll prevent side leaning too.

[Matt Day]

I'll try dry fitting and checking the stability before installing pocket screws, thanks for the heads up.

I wasn't planning on securing it to the wall. I think the weight of the unit itself should keep it pretty stable, but I suppose there could be a tipping hazard? I plan to have the shelves taper from 10" down to about 6" at the upper shelves which should help keep the weight back.

Maybe I should use some angle brackets attached to the top of the top shelf and bottom of the bottom shelf so they're not visible, and anchor them to a stud.

[Prashun Patel]

Good idea.

If the top of the shelf is above eye level, you could even screw mending plates to the backs of the uprights such that a small 'tab' is sticking above the top and then screw into the wall through there.

Pocket screws through the bottom sides into the walls might work too, if you can locate the studs accurately.

[Charlie Schultz]

I built a couple of these last year- used oak for the verticals (finished with shellac) and pine for the shelves (painted). IIRC, mine were about 8" shorter than the original plans. I have them sitting on hardwood floors and they don't slip at all (no wall fasteners either). I cut everything pretty much on spec and the individual shelves fit fine, but everything all together was still tight and I think "knocking it down" will probably require some help from a mallet. Overall, I like them and they stay in place quite well (I was a bit leery at first).