A Little Advice, Please...

[Jeff Beecher]

I am new to forums, but have gained a wealth of information from this one, so thanks in advance. I am about to build a conference table for my boss using A-1 Cherry veneer plywood, with solid cherry around the edges. After some research, I belive that I would like to use Target Coatings Water Based Products. I will use an oil based stain to match the color of the cabinetry in our new office. Over that I want to spray a coat of TC Garnet Shellac. For top coats I want to use TC Ultima Spray Laquer in a Gloss Finish (Four Coats). Now for the questions.

1Does this seem like a good combination?
2:How long should I let the stain dry before applying the Shellac?
3:What Grit should I use to sand the shellac? Between laquer? Final?

Also, I believe I saw a post that mentioned using meguiar's polishes to achieve a high gloss after final sanding. Does anyone know the steps to use them in?

Thanks again. Jeff

[Jim Becker]

The oil-based stain must be fully cured before you start spraying the water borne products over it...unless you do a seal coat of de-waxed shellac (regular shellac...not the water borne "shellac" product from Target) I've tried the Target shellac product, but didn't prefer it over normal de-waxed shellac for both application and "the look".

Other than that, your product choices will work fine. For knocking down fuzzies and nubbies, I use 320 or 400 wet & dry paper or a white synthetic pad. Once you get the USL on, let it cure for awhile before you hit it with the polishing compound. Like any finishing product, a full cure takes a few weeks. One of the biggest mistakes one can make (aside from not trying a finishing regiment on scrap first...) is being impatient to get the project done. The finest of finishes take time and you want a full chemical cure before polishing.

[Larry Fox]

Agree with Jim here except for a conference table I might also give their conversion varnish a look from the standpoint of durability. Also, for more specifics on rubbing out / polishing there are some great resources on both the Target site and the Homestead finishing forums. Below is a link to a great article on the Target site by Jerry Work. He talks a lot about the HVLP guns themselves but there are also a lot of nuggets in there about the specific products and their characteristics as well as the polishing process.

http://www.targetcoatings.com/manual.html

Moderators - apologies if this violates the TOS. If it does and the link gets deleted, the article is called "Getting the most from Target Coatings Inc., Water Based Finishes Using HVLP Spray Equipment" and is in the product support section.

[Jeff Beecher]

Thank you, gentlemen, for your replies. Jim said to let the oil based stain completely dry. How long should that take? I heat my shop, and keep it about 50 degrees f when not in it. Also, Larry, is the Varnish as easy to work with? ( I am a novice at spraying). I also like the fact that the laquer 'burns in", whereas I don't belive the varnish does. Or does it?

[Jeff Beecher]

Thank you, gentlemen, for your replies. Jim said to let the oil based stain completely dry. How long should that take? I heat my shop, and keep it about 50 degrees f when not in it. Also, Larry, is the Varnish as easy to work with? ( I am a novice at spraying). I also like the fact that the laquer 'burns in", whereas I don't belive the varnish does. Or does it?

[Jim Becker]

The warmer it is, the sooner the stain will cure...give it a week or three...when the smell goes away, the oil is cured.

The TC conversion varnish, like all the other water borne products that they sell, is very easy to spray. And yes, only the USL will "burn in"...the conversion varnish product (as well as the Hybrivar) goes on in layers like traditional varnish products.