Powermatic 3520B and DC Remote Activation

[Thomas Canfield]

The GHOST in my previous post is still with me turning on my dust collector at odd times. The Powermatic rep has recommended adding an EMI Filter ($85 to 120 cost) and furnished a model number, but I cannot get confirmation from Delta Electronic on the model number or even if that would be the answer. I have recently discovered that the remote (RF) control will not work at all with the lathe running. Previously, I must have always turned the lathe off to go to the remote to shut down the DC when it came on. This weekend I tried to leave the lathe turning and shut the DC down. No luck. Also no luck turning the DC on when the dlathe is running.

The Delta rep is checking on the EMI filter to go with the inverter or if they would recommend a change in settings that might take care of the problem. The problem seems to happen in the 850 to 950 rpm range, but can happen some time after a speed change. Tonight, it started when trying to make a final finish cut out on a thin rim - but was lucky and no big catch. Hopefully there will be an answer. I need the remote for the DC.

[Richard Madison]

Thomas,
Can't find original post. Did you determine that problem was feedback through the line or "radio" transmission?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Thomas.....The remote that came with my Onieda is supposed to be RF remote. I would try placing something metal....say a piece of aluminum foil ....ground it to the lathe....but hang it directly between the inverter on the PM3520B and the remote sensor. See if this eliminates the RF interference. The EMI filter should, in theory, reduce the problem, however.....I deal with electronics everyday....at the place where theory meets the road......and it often doesn't work as advertised.

I'm probably going to have the same problem in the very near future as my Oneida DC w/ electronic remote is sitting in boxes in my shop and it's going to be located about 5' from my PM3520B.

I suspect I may have to build a metal cover with applicable venting to cover the inverter......In reality some metal screen wire surrounding the inverter and grounded to the lathe should act as a physical RF filter.

Good luck and let me know how it's going. I'm going to be fighting the same battle shortly.

[Paul Heely]

Ken and Thomas for what its worth my 3520b and my Dust Gorilla and its mag switch with RF receiver are within 5' of each other and I have had no issues over the last few weeks.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thomas - I don't have your lathe or dust collector but it seems to me (my opinion only) that the issue is with the dust collector - not the lathe. The receiver is designed such that it is supposed to reject all signals except that of the transmitter. Your lathe must be transmitting a harmonic that triggers the receiver. I would think the people at Oneida would have taken that into consideration when designing the RF remote system and allowed for some means to change the operating frequency of the DC system. I wish you luck with this as it has to be frustrating! Keep us informed please!

[Thomas Canfield]

So far no response form Delta Electronic on a EMI filter or change to the inverter. I did pick up some 8x16 aluminum eave vents at Lowes this afternoon and tried making a "shield" to go over the inverter, but did not get it completed. With 2 sides and a top, it did allow control of the dust collector with the remote up to 350 rpm where before there was never any use of the remote even at the lower speed. A more complete shield and attaching it to the unit may help, and I hope to try that in the next couple of days while waiting on word from Delta.

I also left word with Fernbook, the manufacturer of the remote switch per direction from Oneida, but no reply there either.

The lathe does still operate and is super. I just have to be a little prepared for the extra noise if the DC decides to start. Will post when more progress occurs. HAPPY NEW YEAR.

[Randy Johnson]

"I also left word with Fernbook, the manufacturer of the remote switch per direction from Oneida, but no reply there either. "

I have the same remote, a 3520B, and the same problem. But in my case the problem was there before the lathe.
My shop is a "rescued" two car garage that was in very poor repair when I started fixing it up. The job took about three or four times as long as I thought it would, and as a result some things, like the cyclone, were on hand months before they were needed. When I did finally get the cyclone up, I couldn't get the remote to work at all. The guy at Fernbook said I probably had some interference from the lights.
The building originally had nine one bulb light fixtures in the ceiling. I removed these, installed duplex receptacles, and plugged in two elcheapo two tube fixtures for each of the original lights. When these lights are on there is no problem. I also installed four of the more expensive two tube fixtures over areas where there would be benches. If the "better quaility" fixtures are turned on the remote will not work. In addition, there have been occasions when the DC has come on by itself even if the lights that cause the trouble are on. Last month's electric bill was the highest I've ever had and I will bet that it is because the DC turned itself on when I wasn't around and the *&^% thing ran for a couple of hours.
Cheap fix, if your lathe is the problem, is to start the DC first and then turn on the lathe. If the situation is like mine the source of interference won't turn the DC off - it just keeps the remote from working. Last but not least, put a little sign at the door to remind you to kill the power to the DC before you leave for the day.

[Richard Madison]

Thomas,
Also could try a "shield" around the DC receiver unit. Just need to leave plenty of space for air circulation between the shield and whatever it is shielding.

[Bob Justin]

Randy,

I have a my DC and compressor in a shed outside my shop area and gave up on the little sign on the door. Seems I ignored my own sign. . . So I picked up a few of the McMaster-Carr # 8654T154 Incandescent Status-indicating single Light (Green) and connected then to the load side of the switch. I'm sure there are other less expensive options, but this light is easy to see from anywhere in the shop to check if the air compressor or heater is turned on or off. For now I can still hear the DC when it is running but the indicator light helps.

[Thomas Canfield]

The "housing" assembled from 8" x 16" aluminum eave vents did not seem to help when placed around the inverter. I flattened the louvers down almost shut to minimize the open area. It seems that over 300 rpm the "noise" prevents the RF remote control from workingeither to start or stop.

I do not normally run the DC when turning with large shavings or wet wood since it would fill the dust hopper in no time. A broom and scoop work well for that, but the DC coming on is a distraction. Today, it came on during while decreasing speed where normally it is during increasing speed, and then again it can happen at constant speed. It just does not seem to have a set pattern or area where it occurs.

I did notice the frequency indication on the back of the lathe flutter with the lathe powered up and switched off. I guess I need to talk to Delta Electronics about that and see if that is normal.

Still a great piece of mechanical equipment - just an electronic glitch that hopefully will get addressed.

[Thomas Canfield]

UPDATE: Today I ordered a magnetic contact switch to use for the Dust Collector that will be hardwired to the 110 outlet of the remote controlled Smartswitch for the Dust Collector instead of the current "box" that uses the electrical wiring to receive a signal for the switch.

Jim Keys of Fernbrook called today and had me try using my remote with the lathe running and check out the 110V outlet at bottom of the Smartswitch RF Tranceiver Module. The remote has 2 controls, #1 for the 110V outlet, and #2 for the 220V remote switch that uses the building wiring to receive a signal. I plugged a lamp into the socket and it worked like a charm with the lathe running at different speeds. The remote control for the DC switch would not work, and the DC came on during the test from the lathe "noise" that is carried in the shop wiring. The magnetic contact will be an improvement and should be considered if there is an outlet close to the DC to plug in the Smartswitch and then hardwire to the magnetic contact for the DC.

I should have the magnetic contact next week and will let you know the results, but it sure looks like this is the answer.

I talked to a Delta electronics service technician yesterday and he did not hold out hope that a EMI filter or "choke" on the wiring would do the trick since there is so much noise generated by the inverter and motor that is in the wiring.