Wood Recommendation For Kit Cabs

[tom cooper]

I have a tight budget kitchen upgrade coming up. The plan is to replace all cabinet doors but paint the existing face frames and case work. The new doors will be painted to match and will be in the flat panel rail & stile type construction. Instead of a flat panel I may use an MDF raised panel. However, I don't know what type of wood to use for the rails/stiles. I have built many paint grade doors of pine and poplar but these woods do not seem heavy enough or durable enough for kitchen use. I refuse to paint oak and so I was wondering what else is commonly used for stable paint grade cabinet doors ?

Thanks for any suggestions,
Merry Christmas or Happy Holiday & happy New Year.

[Jim Becker]

I used poplar, but soft maple is popular for painted door rails and stiles, too. Both are smooth species that will be strong as well as look nice under paint due to minimal grain. One could also use cherry that has too much sapwood in it for other purposes to same effect.

[tom cooper]

Thanks for a quick reply Jim. I was not aware of such a thing as "soft" maple! I'll look around for sources of soft maple on Wed. What would your opinion of birch for this application be?

[Paul Greathouse]

Tom

Poplar would be just fine for the rails and stiles along with either of the panel applications that you mentioned. I have built doors with MDF raised panels and poplar rails/stiles. They are plenty strong.

There is also a cabinet door maker in my area that cranks out tons of the poplar/MDF doors. These are the only material he uses for paint grade doors. He's been building these for years and has had no problems with them that I know of. I used to buy from him back in the early 90's before I was set up to make my own doors.

Birch solid stock is not available down here but I would assume it would be right there with poplar & maple as far a strength and quality is concerned.

[Jim Becker]

What would your opinion of birch for this application be?

Birch will work, but some may require some grain filling if you want a smooth painted surface. Poplar, soft Maple (it's not really "soft"...just a general name for certain types of Maple trees), cherry, etc., exhibit minimal grain/pore structures and take paint better.

[Jeff Wright]

What thicknesses can you get MDF in? Anything between 1/4 and 1/2 inch? I'm concerned half-inch would be a tad too thick for my rail and stile kitchen doors.

Also, what should one specify to get a superior grade of MDF?

[jason lambert]

Most doors are standard 3/4" give or take a little. You need this depth for the hinges etc. A 1/4" door would flex to much and warp easer. As for MDF not sure on the grade I think it is all about the same but I am probably wrong there.

If you are doing a one piece door with a groove mdf will be fine. If you are trying to do anything else I would use popular. If you are going to use MDF though be aware you really need to paint it with a good kitchen paint, if water gets into it from wiping it down it will swell and bubble.

I would also consider going to your local chain store and looking at the pre fab cabinets and maybe buy just the doors the coating is more of a plastic and durable.

[BOB OLINGER]

Tom,

If you're on a tight budget and plan to paint them, why consider birch? I'd recomend popular for its workability, paintability, and budget concerns.

[David Eisan]

Here is me making poplar and MDF doors,

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=46810

Here are some installed pics,

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62067

If you have any questions, feel free to ask,

David.

[tom cooper]

Thanks all for your ideas and advice. I called around for pricing on poplar, birch and soft maple and was surprised to find the best prices for rough sawn Poplar and Birch is $2.25 per BF and the price for rough sawn Soft Maple is $3.75 per BF. That is quite a difference in price. Based on Jim Beckers comment on pore filling of Birch, that is no longer a consideration. So it will be poplar or soft maple - I just have to get comfortable with the idea of poplar in a kitchen and some of your replies are encouraging. And for David Eisen!!!! - that is beautiful and inspirational work, just the look I am going for. Thankyou for sharing that, i will be studying your posts intensively later on. What type of paint did you you use? Spray or brush? Again, thanks.

DOES ANYONE HAVE A FACTOR FOR DETERMINING HOW MUCH YIELD TO ESTIMATE WHEN PURCHASING ROUGH SAWN LUMBER? In other words, if I estimate I can cut everything I need if I had 100 perfect board feet of 4/4 stock, how much extra should be estimated when purchasing "typical" rough sawn lumber?

[Joe Mioux]

Poplar is a joy to work with. It mills beautfully.

joe

[glenn bradley]

If they are to be painted anyway a slid 3/4" MDF door could work with the raised panel look routed in: http://www.rockler.com/rockler/images/Door_11.jpg

If you prefer rail and stile, your wood should be as paint friendly as possible (read close grain). As mentioned, poplar, (some) alder and soft maple (not actually a soft wood physically) would work.

Use a high quality primer, a mediocre primer will effect your whole project when painting.

[Jim Becker]

I'm concerned half-inch would be a tad too thick for my rail and stile kitchen doors.

You rebate the 1/2" thick panel so that it's flush with the back of the door. That leaves a 1/4" shadow line between the rails/stiles and the panel. My whole kitchen was done that way.

Oh, and Tom...my whole kitchen is poplar face frames, drawer fronts, rails and stiles with MDF panels in the doors. (The poplar was cut and milled here on our property after the trees came down due to a septic project back in 2000)

[tom cooper]

"...my whole kitchen is poplar face frames, drawer fronts, rails and stiles with MDF panels....."

Really?~!!! Decision is now made and poplar it will be for me. Did you post any pictures of your work? This is all starting to come together now. Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

Middle of the page... http://sawsndust.com/index.shtm