Bandsaw

[Dave Stoler]

Well...I never understood when I read that a bandsaw was "under powered"...Now I do..While trying to cut a 2 in thick bowl blank My cm 12 in. was truely struggleing.A new blade i,m sure would help..But I believe this is really under powered..I,ll make do with relief cuts and all but I see a upgrade in my future..

[Art Mann]

A 1/2 hp bandsaw should cut 2 inch hardwood with relative ease. There is something wrong with your blade or setup.

[Lance Norris]

I started out with a Black and Decker 3 wheeler. Here was my upgrade:
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2007/Main/87
I highly recommend a Grizzly bandsaw of the steel frame type for your upgrade.

[Earl Reid]

I put a 3/4hp motor on my 40 yr old 12" CM band saw , it cuts 5-6 " resaws etc with ease.
Earl

[scott spencer]

I've got a 3/4hp CMan 12", and it cuts 2" pretty easily with a Timberwolf 3/8" 6 TPI blade.

[Rolf Safferthal]

Seems to me I´m quite happy to have an 1,5 hp 3-phase motor on my 12.5'' Kity. Cuts 8 inches of beech easily. More than 8.5 inches doesn't fit through the saw.

Rolf

[Roy Hatch]

... My cm 12 in. was truely struggleing.A new blade i,m sure would help...

Sounds like a new blade would be worth a try - unless you did what I recently did. I removed a 1/2" blade and installed a 3/16" in order to cut some tight radii and found that it smoked when cutting 1 1/2" wood. First, I was puzzled that the blade would not do better, then realized I had the blade turned inside out.:o

Roy

[Lee Schierer]

About a year ago while resawing some maple. I thought my 14" Delta band saw was underpowered. What I found was that the drive belt was not tight. Simply tightening the belt was like buying a new saw. If your drive pulley and belt are hot after running for a short time your belt is probably too loose. Also notice when the saw bogs down in a cut, does the motor actually stop or is the belt slipping?

[Pete Bradley]

Your band saw has plenty of power for what you're trying to do. A bigger motor might compensate the wrong band or technique, but it would be cheaper to find the real cause. Likely candidates (in rapidly decreasing order of likelihood):
1. Band has too many teeth or is dull. A 3/8 X 4TPI "Timberwolf" or similar would be a good choice
2. The workpiece is an odd shape or not flat on the bottom and it's twisting (rolling with respect to the blade)
3. The wood has internal stresses and is closing in behind the band. You can stick a wedge in the kerf after you've started the cut if this happens.
4. You have a belt slipping or other drive issue similar to what Lee recommended.
5. Your guides are not aligned causing the band to twist.

Pete

[Dave Stoler]

I went and purchased a 4 tpi 1/4 in. blade and will install it this evening..As far as guide alignment and adjustment they are as good as I know how to make them.Otherwise I will update with results of the blade change...btw..it,s a OLSEN blade..No timber wolfs where I went..The old blade was a old cm brand.

[Dave Stoler]

The new blade is a huge improvement.It cut through 2in pecan very well.Straight and square.I,m learning as I go. Best $12 I ever spent..

[Jim Becker]

Dave, you can order Timberwolf direct from Suffolk Machinery (http://www%20suffolkmachinery.com). Prices are lower than the retail packaged version and they give good advise about what size blades you should keep around. Do remember that band saw blades are pretty much disposables and have a lifespan that is not "long" in most cases...do keep an extra of the size you find yourself using the most so you don't get stuck in the middle of a project.

[Dave Stoler]

I was going to ask what the lifespan might be...Now I have an idea...I,ll have to order a couple in my most used confiquiration..Thanks for the source!

[Jack Briggs]

I've resawn an old African Blackwood 3' long log that was 9" diameter on my 18 yr. old import 14" clone saw with a 1/2" Woodsaver blade and only 10amp (3/4 HP) motor! It can be done, or else the blade is dull.

[David Weaver]

I can't say really do much to add to this other than to say that I also have an underpowered saw, but it's just a larger version - the newer Jet 18" saw with the 1.75hp 110v motor - at least it was underpowered until I set it up and put a timberwolf blade on it. It now will resaw up to the guide height with ease. It may not be production speed feed rate at that, but it is plenty of power for a hobbyist, and the feed rate is plenty to avoid burning.

At any rate, if I can resaw somewhere around 12", then you shouldn't have trouble cutting 2" wood, even if you'd like a faster feed rate than it allows.

I can't imagine what the 5 hp 18" saws are for, unless the blade speed is stepped up to 5000+ feet per minute so you can really feed fast and hard.

[Dave Stoler]

I,m a hobbiest and feed rate isn,t a issue at this time...Safety and final product are.Slow and steady is fine by me...I can see a more capable bandsaw in my future but for now I,m learning basics..Maintenance ,set-up and all...It,s been 30+ yrs. since any serious projects..
High school was my only true experience and now that I am able to retire I set-up shop..:D The cm bandsaw was a steal when I got it new 25 yrs. ago..Planing thick stock down is a waste I hate to do when resawing would create more usable material with so much less waste.As knowledge,time and budget allow I,ll upgrade ..
In a earlier post titled "this forum stinks" I never did really explain myself.When I found this forum I was looking to just make some nice simple dovetail boxes..After browseing through all the different catagories I now want to do turnings,bowls,bandsaw boxes,remodel my home,make a bedroom set,make lamps,yadda,yadda,yadda..
So actually it was a tongue in cheek "Thank You!" to all here for expanding my horizons and answering my beginner questions that are stumpers for me but so basic the those experienced folks here.
Again THANK YOU ALL that take the time to tap out even the simplest answer...