Boring Deep Holes

[Mac Cambra]

Guys,

Going to embark on my first real turning project, did a bit of practicing on scrap turn little spindles and such. My first project is going to be a 12" peppermill out of hard maple. I think the only real challende here is boring co-axial 1/4" and 1 1/16" holes down the center of the work piece.

Any suggestions how to best do this? A drill chuck mounted on the lathe? The drill press and by the way what type of bit would be best for the large diameter hole? The only thing I am finding is auger bits that are long enough?

Thanks,

Mac

[Brodie Brickey]

My understanding is that the auger bits are the best for long and straight. Spade bits are out, those things wander like a dawg hunting pheasant. I'd use forstner bits for the start on each end. The other thing to consider is starting with stock that is wider than you will actually use. That way if the bit wanders a little you don't have a problem. You just turn based on the hole as center.

When i turned a peppermill everything turned out ok except the knob on top. I had some shaping problems and it ended more cone than door knob.

[Robert McGowen]

Mac,

Bore the holes while the stock is still square. Then turn the piece round using the hole you drill as your center point. Guaranteed to be centered and straight. Good luck!

[Dan Forman]

You can get extensions for forstner bits, not sure how long though. I think that's what most folks use for the larger holes.

Dan

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have a 6" extension for forstner bits from CSUSA. I drill my blanks before I start turning and then use a tap I bought from woodcraft to tap 1 1/4" thread in a jam chuck of wood that will screw onto the head stock and turn it to fit in the end of the drilled hole. I use the oneway livecenter with the cone on it in the other end.

[Jerry Allen]

Mac,
You should use a drill chuck, a Forstener bit and a bit extension.
The drill chuck needs a taper for your tailstock, usually #2.
I got my extension at Penn State Ind., but as Bernie stated, CS, would be fine too.
I know the plan calls for a 1 1/16" bored hole, but you can usually get away with using a 1" Forstener bit which is more readily available and cheaper, in sets usually, and just locally scrape or cut the neds of the bore to fit the grinder mechanism or design intent. The remainder of the bore holds the pepper and 1/16" won't make a difference. You should be able to determine this from your mechanism installation instructions.

[Mac Cambra]

Guys ,

Thanks for the replies, I was going to spend $30 on an auger bit, I am going to skip that and simply get the extension. I have a set of forstner bits and I think I will make due with the 1" bit. I bought the drill chuck for the lathe as well.

Right now my skew chisel is causing me fits, it is grabbing and messing things up pretty good. I just sharpened it on the Tormek, it is razor sharp, but I was doing better with it straight out of the box.

Maybe I will start another thread dedicated to the skew.

Thanks

Mac