Bench Dog holes

[Marc Prudhomme]

Now that my workbench is finally done I need to make 3/4 dog holes.What is the best tool for this job?Do I need to go through the entire 2 1/2 inches and straight through or just half way?My bench is laminated mdf with a hardboard top.
I was thinking of using a plunge router for the start and then a spade bit to finish.Does this sound right?
Marc

[Jim Becker]

I used a brand new Irwin spade bit (with the little wings that make a clean edge) and it did an outstanding job. The only thing I would do differently is to clamp a sacrificial piece to the bottom of the bench top for a cleaner exit hole. Note, you want to use a corded drill for this work...it's hard on the tool. I don't see any reason to use the router and it's much easier to align the spade bit than it is to center the router bit when you need to keep things in an exact position...something I ran into a little, umm...measurement problem with...when I drilled mine...the first time. ;)

[Tom Veatch]

Now that my workbench is finally done I need to make 3/4 dog holes.What is the best tool for this job?Do I need to go through the entire 2 1/2 inches and straight through or just half way? My bench is laminated mdf with a hardboard top.
All the way through or have some way of cleaning out the debris that collects in the bottom of the holes.



I was thinking of using a plunge router for the start and then a spade bit to finish.Does this sound right?
Marc

That should work fine although my personal choice would be to finish up with a ship auger.

There was another thread that touched on this subject recently. You might want to check out this:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70668

[Gary Keedwell]

This subject comes up often and the last time someone had a link that showed how to use a plunge router and a simple plywood jig to line the holes up. I personally think you would get a cleaner, more true hole using a plunge router and a proper plunge specified bit.
Gary

http://fw_woodworking.permissiontv.com/index.html?showid=474515

[Marc Prudhomme]

Tom, Why would a ship auger be better?
All the way through or have some way of cleaning out the debris that collects in the bottom of the holes.



That should work fine although my personal choice would be to finish up with a ship auger.

There was another thread that touched on this subject recently. You might want to check out this:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70668

[Steven J Corpstein]

I used a 3/4" Forstner bit on my drill press and they came out true and clean. Took a little doing to get the maple slab level, but once I got it there it was just a matter of using a simple jig that indexed off of the previous hole to drill the next one.

The jig indexed off of the edge and had a hole to pin to the previous hole. I will say that if you use this method, take your time so the bit doesn't get hot, and I spritzed a little spray bit lubricant once in a while.

[George Bregar]

I used a 3/4" Forstner bit on my drill press and they came out true and clean. Took a little doing to get the maple slab level, but once I got it there it was just a matter of using a simple jig that indexed off of the previous hole to drill the next one.

The jig indexed off of the edge and had a hole to pin to the previous hole. I will say that if you use this method, take your time so the bit doesn't get hot, and I spritzed a little spray bit lubricant once in a while. I would use the saw tooth forstner, they cut faster, and don't get hot.

http://woodcraft.com/images/family/web1917.jpg

[Marc Prudhomme]

Not sure if I fully understand the method used for using a drill press.I have a bench model press,not a floor model.

I used a 3/4" Forstner bit on my drill press and they came out true and clean. Took a little doing to get the maple slab level, but once I got it there it was just a matter of using a simple jig that indexed off of the previous hole to drill the next one.

The jig indexed off of the edge and had a hole to pin to the previous hole. I will say that if you use this method, take your time so the bit doesn't get hot, and I spritzed a little spray bit lubricant once in a while.

[Gary Keedwell]

This is what I used about 8 years ago when I did my bench holes. I still have that carbide bit and it is still sharp.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2406

By the way..that relatively inexpensive jig kept my holes a perfect 90º to the table.

Gary

[Marc Prudhomme]

I like the drill guide and the forstner bit idea.Are there any better drill guides that anyone can recomend.
This is what I used about 8 years ago when I did my bench holes. I still have that carbide bit and it is still sharp.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2406

By the way..that relatively inexpensive jig kept my holes a perfect 90º to the table.

Gary

[Gary Keedwell]

I like the drill guide and the forstner bit idea.Are there any better drill guides that anyone can recomend.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x286/jc623/cigar.gif http://www.woodworkslive.com/Smileys/default/evil.gif

[Tom Veatch]

Tom, Why would a ship auger be better?

It's been my experience that the ship auger extends the initial (guide) hole more reliably with less tendency to wander, is self feeding, and, IMO, gives a better finish to the interior of the hole. If you're planning on using holdfasts, I believe the auger will give you a better hole for the purpose. Since you questioned whether to drill through holes or not, you're probably not planning on using holdfasts so that wouldn't be a factor.

Plus, I already have the auger. If it's a case of having to buy one, and they aren't exactly cheap, or use a spade bit you already have, I'm sure the spade bit will do quite well, especially if it has cutting nibs on the outer edges. If your's is the straight, flat bottomed type with only a central spike, I'd toss it and get one that does have the side cutters.

[Marc Prudhomme]

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http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x286/jc623/cigar.gif http://www.woodworkslive.com/Smileys/default/evil.gif

[Jerome Hanby]

Assuming you already have the bit for the plunge router (thinking it wouldn't be worth the money to buy a new bit), couldn't you just clamp down a straight board to use as a guide, use a router base with a flat side to guide along the board, and make an alignment mark at the halfway mark on the flat side of the router base?

Depending on how carefully you set up your center mark and the guide board, the holes might not be dead on the desired point, but I would think they would all be consistent.

I can see wanting to start the holes with a router, it would make getting them 90 degrees to the surface of the bench a no-brainer.

Come to think of it, I bet you could make the indexing (I think that what it was called) baseplate for the router the Bill Hyman describes in his Router magic book for making the shelf pin jig. Seems like it would allow you to layout perfectly spaced dog holes based on the first one in each row. A second guide board laid out along one side of the bench should let you make the first hole in each row align with the first hole in previous rows.

[Ralph Barhorst]

The spade bit will work. The cleanest cut will be with the router. I just bought a 3/4" end mill with a 1/2" shaft from Ebay for $3.95 plus shipping. (Nobody bid against me.) I haven't used it yet, but I bought it to use with my router to make these holes.

[Gary Keedwell]

The spade bit will work. The cleanest cut will be with the router. I just bought a 3/4" end mill with a 1/2" shaft from Ebay for $3.95 plus shipping. (Nobody bid against me.) I haven't used it yet, but I bought it to use with my router to make these holes.
Ralph, your gonna use a router? That's a good choice. Is it a plunge type router bit? If it isn't you can drill the holes first then go back and route them out. I would use a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit.
Gary

Again...here is another link for same subject:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70668

[Marc Prudhomme]

Hello gentleman,
I would like to thank you all for all the advice.It was not my intent to ask a stupid question,I just wanted to create the cleanest hole without wobble effecting the hole.I was concerned because I was making hole in MDF ,and I know that ater a while the dog hole would probably wear out on there own, so I did not want to create an abround hole to start with.
Again thanks,
Marc

[Gary Keedwell]

Mark, it wasn't a stupid question but I think that fact that you were using MDF got lost in the thread somewhere.;) I didn't realize it until I went back and re-read the whole thread. That makes me think that a router might give a cleaner hole.
Gary

[Marc Prudhomme]

77784here you go ......

[Charlie Velasquez]

77817

I only went through two layers of mdf, so I'm not sure if the spade bit's shank is long enough to go all the way through your top, but this kept my holes straight and evenly spaced.

[Ralph Barhorst]

Ralph, your gonna use a router? That's a good choice. Is it a plunge type router bit? If it isn't you can drill the holes first then go back and route them out. I would use a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit.
Gary

Gary, It is actually an end mill, so it can drill without any problem.

Ralph

[Gary Keedwell]

Ralph, your gonna use a router? That's a good choice. Is it a plunge type router bit? If it isn't you can drill the holes first then go back and route them out. I would use a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit.
Gary

Gary, It is actually an end mill, so it can drill without any problem.

Ralph
Ralph...Not all end mills are created equal...only a "center-cut" end mill will plunge like a drill. They usually have a marking on the shaft like this C/C.
Gary