Compound Mitre Saw Recommendations

[Jeff Wright]

What brand, features and capabilities do you suggest for compound mitre chopsaws? I make cabinets and furniture and some home improvement projects (crown molding, wainscoting, chair rails, etc.). Do you suggest a 10-inch or 12-inch? A stationary saw or sliding model? I prefer to spend more to get quality.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Jeff. There are 4 popular brands in the CMS area: DeWalt, Mikita, Bosch, and Hitachi. Any one of them will be a good saw. I have had, for about 5 years,the Mikita LS1013, a 10" sliding CMS. I don't use it as hard as some of the creekers do theirs, but it does everything I want it to do. The DeWalt CMS has a good reputation, as does the Bosch and HItachi. It just boils down what you think is the best. I am sure you will get lots of help here selecting the "best one."

[Stan Welborn]

I had a Dewalt 10" and replaced it with a Makita 12".Abso-dang-lutly would recommend the 12" for the added capacity. Depends on your needs though I suppose. I liked the Dewalt handle more, but the Makita feels like the better built machine. It may be just because of the more robustness of a heavier 12 inch machine, but the Makita operates like a good piece of machinery where the Dewalt felt more fragile. I've never used a 12" Dewalt.

[John W. Willis]

I've had really good luck with my Hitachi 10" cms BUT it's the first one I've owned.

[Jim O'Dell]

I had a thread recently about 10" SCMS units. The one thing I came away with is, of the 4 major ones listed here are all very good machines. Go out and handle each one if you can. I found out early on I did not like the DeWalt. Never cut a toothpick with one. I grabbed the handle on one at HD and went throught the motion of cutting, and where I instinctively put my thumb on that handle, I sliced enough layers of skin off my right thumb to bleed pretty good. I know I put my hand in the wrong place, but I have tried several other times, and each time, that is where my thumb goes. It doesn't feel right with my hand in the "correct" place. Maybe horizontal handles are just not for me.:confused: I have yet to get my hands on the Bosch, but the Hitachi and the Makita both felt right in my hand. I was disappointed that the Hitachi's table was so small. The Makita has a very large table. It looks like from the pictures on the web, that the Bosch table is similar to the Hitachi in size. Pluses for the Hitachi? 5 year warranty, 50.00 off on Amazon right now (code from toolseeker) and a 2 1/4 hp router, fixed base, from Hitachi as a mail in rebate. Also, it requires very little room behind the unit for the slider, and a larger diameter dust collection port than the Makita. Pluses for the Bosch is the handle will set in 4 positions. I've decided to wait for a good deal to show up on the Makita because of the table size. It just seems to me to be safer. If the router on the Hitachi rebate had been a plunge unit, I might be swayed to it and build my own support to augment the smaller table. The Hitachi is definately the best deal in a 10" slider right now. 399.00, free shipping, and a free router. Hope the info I've found helps.
Oh, the only negative thing I've read on the 12" units is the blade has a bigger tendancy to wobble, causing the cut to not be as precise. I suppose the 8 1/2" sliders would be even better than the 10" units on this account. Jim.

[Jeff Wright]

Ken, John, Stan, Jim: Thanks for the ideas and comments.

I am leaning towards the 10-inch rather than the 12. So far, the Bosch is at the top of my tentative list. But as has been suggested, I want to see if I can touch each of the top contenders before making a decision.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have owned a Dewalt CMS, a Hitachi SCMS and a Bosch SCMS. All three do a good job, stay square through many hours of use and abuse, and run trouble-free. The newest one is a Bosch. It has some nice features, including an adjustable handle, tilts both ways and a laser cut line.

I use the 10" Bosch SCMS in the shop. The Hitachi was an 8-1/2" SCMS and cut evereything a 10" saw will cut, except for thicker materials. The Dewalt CMS is a 12" and I use it for deck building, where I frequently cut 4X4 and 2X8 material. The size you need depends on what you will cut. For shop work, I find a 10" SCMS perfectly fine.

Plan to buy a good blade for your miter saw. The stock blades are pretty sad. I use a Forrest Chopmaster and get excellent cuts.

[Allen Bookout]

I have the Mikita LS1013, a 10" sliding CMS and am impressed with it. Extremely accurate out of the box and it came with a very good blade so I was not out that cost right away. Worth a look when you get to your hands on evaluation.

[Chuck Burns]

I've got the Bosch 5412 12" CSMS and it's great; except for DC and it seems all miter saws are weak there. I've got a Forrest Chopmaster on it and it cuts amazingly well.

[Rob Will]

Jeff, instead of a 10", I would get a 12" belt driven saw. You will be amazed how much added capacity the belt drive adds by getting the motor back out of the way. You can see the work better too.

I think you will use the capacity all the time if you have it.

As for brand, go with what "feels" natural in your hand (and you can get good service for).

Good luck with your decision, maybe Santa will bring you one.

Rob

[Todd Jensen]

I went through 3 10" Makitas before I got the Hitachi C10FSH(I know it by heart). I've now had 3 of them and still believe it to be the best value in a trim saw. The Makita cups a little on its wide miters, i.e. tall base cut on the flat or skirt boards. The Hitachi has a very solid slide producing very straight cuts. I can use an above average blade on the Hitachi and create excellent results - the Hitachi with a Forrest Chopmaster is a mean machine indeed. Good luck with your choice; I use my Hitachi DAILY for stairs, mantles, and custom casework, and am not willing to trade for anything else that is currently offered. That said, the Dewalt, Bosch, and Makita are all decent saws. IMO, though, the Bosch is much too heavy and cumbersome, the Dewalt is also too heavy for my liking(I don't have firm numbers, it might be lighter than the Hitachi but just feels heavier I don't know), and the Makita is great for light duty work but just not accurate enough. I guess another thing that I like the Hitachi for is it feels safe to me, it feels very controllable and the times I've made mistakes with it, while very scary of course, it hasn't completely exploded. Also, you asked about 10 vs 12 inch - while capacity is nice, I think you'll find the greater accuracy of the 10" invaluable. Less runout and less blade to ease into delicate pieces. There's my soliloquy, have fun with decision and let us know what your findings are.:)
and p.s. forgive the inelibigle:) ramblings; my wife makes a wicked friday cocktail.:D

[Paul Girouard]

I agree with Todd . Hatachi 10" Hands down the best .

I've had mine for sine 1995 , back when they cost almost $700.00 bucks :mad: due to some NAFTA deal about where it was built. Maybe pre NAFTA , but it was spendy due to a tariff of some sort at the time.

I've used other saws , Makita , DeWalts a good Site saw for a siding crew , exterior trim out , large trellis work . But none will be "AS GOOD" for what you say you'll be doing as the Hatachi 10".



The biggest advantage is in the saw head locking mechanism , all the others do not hold the head true for the odd rabbet/ dado cut.

I will say my saw is older , the "new improved" :rolleyes: Hatachi that is out now I've only seen on the shelf at the lumber yard . They did some tweaking of the Sliding bars to shorten the saw up but retain the same length ( or close to ) cut. I don't know what else they may have changed, some times changes is NOT good .

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/July27th3.jpg


This one was "free hand" rabbet cut for a toe space / base piece on a CD / stereo shelf unit.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Sept2620076.jpg

[Jason White]

The new Festool KAPEX miter saw is due out early next year. I'd hang on and take one for a test drive before you commit to something else.

JW


What brand, features and capabilities do you suggest for compound mitre chopsaws? I make cabinets and furniture and some home improvement projects (crown molding, wainscoting, chair rails, etc.). Do you suggest a 10-inch or 12-inch? A stationary saw or sliding model? I prefer to spend more to get quality.

[Randy Cohen]

i just got a Hitachi SCMS, the one with the laser. I would recommend it without any ifs ands or buts.
if you do a little search you can find a recent thread about these saws...the thread was started by Jim Odell i think.

[Matt Lentzner]

The new Festool KAPEX miter saw is due out early next year. I'd hang on and take one for a test drive before you commit to something else.

JW

Only if you're willing to pay the $800 to $1200 price tag. Given Festool's track record, if you really want the best and money is no object, then I would agree that waiting would be the right move.

The big weakness that the current crop shares is poor dust collection - which supposedly the Kapex is up to Festool's high standards in that regard. For in shop use it may very well be worth it (I have the Bosch 12" SCMS, but I'm watching for when the Kapex hits N. America).

Matt

[mike wacker]

Amongst my "Professional" friends the Dewalt 12" is the tool of choice when capacity demands it and the Hitachi 10" is the tool of choice when the best accuracy is desired and the material allows it's use. The Dewalt blade seems to be appriciated the most in the 12" machine and the Forrest ChopMaster is favored in the 10".

[Jeff Wright]

While there are many positive comments on the Hitachi, these reports from users are a cause for concern:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideProduct.aspx?id=26933&tab=_user

Is there another Hitachi model without the limitations mentioned in this link? Or, is the newest model not up to the standards of your older ones?

[Jim O'Dell]

Paul, in your set up, do you ever have the need to cut wider material, say 1 X 12? The support where the blade cuts would be fine, but the table is much smaller in that it doesn't support that wide of material away from the cutting area. Have you had any issues with this? This area is my ONLY question on the Hitachi. If it had Makita's table size, I'd have already ordered it and begged forgiveness from the wife.:D It's on sale through the end of the month at Amazon.
Paul, additionally, is doing the odd dado/rabbit the only thing you like the Hitachi for over the Makita? Is it equal in other aspects of a SCMS? I guess I could sell the router and buy a Forrest Chopmaster for the shop with the proceeds since I really don't need a fixed base router at the moment. Thanks for any insights you can offer.
From the Toolseeker site:
"Coupons
Specials for December: Amazon has the following offers:
Free shipping on ground orders over $25
$50 off Hitachi bench top tools - code: 6MQ7TCA3
Visit Amazon for more info" (edited to take out links for Amazon)
So now I'm in a quandary again.:D Thanks for your information! Jim.

[Paul Girouard]

While there are many positive comments on the Hitachi, these reports from users are a cause for concern:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideProduct.aspx?id=26933&tab=_user

Is there another Hitachi model without the limitations mentioned in this link?

Or, is the newest model not up to the standards of your older ones?





I had none of those "bad" issues with my saw, the guy with 15 years experience , IMO , doesn't know $hit from shin -O-la.

We had the 8" saw and stepped up to the 10" when it came out. So my experience with these saws goes back to the early 90's.

Yes the old saw degree scale can be hard to read IF your not used to it. That has been redesigned on the new saw. The 10" Hatachi still looks to be a good / best saw, ALTHOUGH I have not used the redesigned saw as I stated earlier.

The guard on the Hatachi IMO works very well , I rarely have to hold it up and out of the way , but IF a guy has to it's easy , at least for me , to just hold it where I need it with the heel of my hand , NO prop / wedge , tape etc is needed.

The 12" Hatachi with the laser and all the other BS they've added could only be used as a stationary ( stays in the shop ) saw as it would be busted IF it had to go on a job site. It's heavy and over loaded IMO.

I'll also add my saw and the shop I worked at saw got very good care. All the this sticks , saw dust build ups , complaints MUST come from lazy people . ALL TOOLS NEED LUBED , blown off, cleaned , beds waxed , etc . THAT IS NORMAL OPERATION , IMO . When I read stuff like that in reviews , I know exactly what that persons tools look like , they are piled one on another in a leaky truck bed , they are dull , thay are dirty and like thier owner they don't work well:mad:

End of Mini Rant:D

Jim when I have wide stock to cut , that needs spot on accuracy I use my table saw and cut off box. For closet shelfing , and other "just to wide to quite cut " where "spot on" isn't needed I rotate the stock upward to cut that last little bit .

I know the blade guard police / safety OHSA wanta bees will cringe , but what's safe for me , and whats safe for you my vary.

I've been a full time all the time carpenter most of my working life , 8 years of USN EA-6B fleet time sandwished in , but in general I've had a power tool / scary sharp hand tool( is there any other kind? Not in my tool tote;) ) in my hand for about 38 years and I have had 4 stitch's , total in my life. Not bad eh:D

Knocking on head / wood :D

[Jeff Wright]

Paul, in your set up, do you ever have the need to cut wider material, say 1 X 12? The support where the blade cuts would be fine, but the table is much smaller in that it doesn't support that wide of material away from the cutting area. Have you had any issues with this? This area is my ONLY question on the Hitachi. If it had Makita's table size, I'd have already ordered it and begged forgiveness from the wife.:D It's on sale through the end of the month at Amazon.
Paul, additionally, is doing the odd dado/rabbit the only thing you like the Hitachi for over the Makita? Is it equal in other aspects of a SCMS? I guess I could sell the router and buy a Forrest Chopmaster for the shop with the proceeds since I really don't need a fixed base router at the moment. Thanks for any insights you can offer.
From the Toolseeker site:
"Coupons
Specials for December: Amazon has the following offers:
Free shipping on ground orders over $25
$50 off Hitachi bench top tools - code: 6MQ7TCA3
Visit Amazon for more info" (edited to take out links for Amazon)
So now I'm in a quandary again.:D Thanks for your information! Jim.

Jim, I tried your promo code and it was not accepted. Are you sure it applies to the SCMS?

BTW, nearly ALL reviews on amazon are raving comments on the Hitachi.

[Don Bullock]

I've had really good luck with my Hitachi 10" cms BUT it's the first one I've owned.

I was going to say exactly the same thing. I got my 10" Hatachi SCMS on one of those super "deals" that Amazon had last spring. It's been great right out of the box. Since I've never owned another one, and haven't even used many, I can't compare them for you.

The only thing that I can suggest is to visit one of the BORGS (my blue one has more MS on display than the orange one). That's one item that they all seem to have on display. At least you can get your hands on them and see what they look like. With many tools today you can't even do that.:(

[Jeff Wright]

I visited the local borgs today and took a look at the SCMSs. I did like the 10" Hitachi the best. I see there are two models, one with one side bevel action and a laser, and another with TWO or DUAL bevel cutting feature and apparently without a laser. What's your opinion which would be preferred, single or dual bevel cut capability? Is there anything about the dual bevel model that would be less accurate over time due to more mechanical action?

[Paul Girouard]

I visited the local borgs today and took a look at the SCMSs. I did like the 10" Hitachi the best. I see there are two models, one with one side bevel action and a laser, and another with TWO or DUAL bevel cutting feature and apparently without a laser. What's your opinion which would be preferred, single or dual bevel cut capability? Is there anything about the dual bevel model that would be less accurate over time due to more mechanical action?


You'll want the dual tilt one , for sure . I thought they all where. Mine and all the ones I've used , the 10" Hatachi's , have been dual tilt.

My laser is my eye , laser , on saws are for kids. ;)

[Todd Jensen]

I agree on the Hitachi - I didn't even spend the time to go read the thread on Taunton; whatever they say won't convince me that any saw is better than the C10FSH for accuracy. As far as its table size, I don't count on the table to support large work pieces, I use my auxiliary saw legs and other supports as needed. One more thing, I really think the laser helps speed my cut setup, particularly on wider boards. It gets me close to my line and I can make my adjustments without moving the board to see the miter index scale.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z66/grizzified/Jensen%20Carpentry/HitachisetuponDewaltstand.jpg

[Jim O'Dell]

Paul, I didn't make myself clear on my question. I'm not talking about material wider than the saw will cut, although I thought it would do a 1X12 board, maybe not. I am more interested on boards that are wider than the rotating part of the table is. The Makita table appears to be about 3 or 4" bigger in diameter. Have you had any trouble with that? For long boards, I'm not concerned, because where I will use this most often is in my shop between 2 10' long, 13" deep tables specially built to be infeed/outfeed tables for the SCMS, lunchbox planer, etc. But for short pieces, say 10" long for making a normal cross cut. Is it stable by itself, stable/safe with the hold down in use? Clearer? :confused::p I appreciate the info you have given.

Jeff, I haven't actually tried it to the point of seeing if it goes through, but Toolseeker's site specifically says it is for bench top tools, and that's what I would consider this to be. Maybe Amazon doesn't consider it to be in that category. Might have to look into that. IIRC from Frozen Warrior, the low price on Amazon for this item is 344. and change over the last 90 days. And that was around the first week of November. That tells me it will go on sale again. It's usually just for an hour or two at the super low prices. I rarely get lucky enough to get in those, and never on the ones at Amazon. The Makita's low price was in October for around 475, but the overall low price was about 370, but no way to know how long ago that was, but I think last May or April.
I guess I need to find out on the Hitachi price code. That may settle things for me....for a day or 2 anyway!.:D Jim.

[Paul Girouard]

But for short pieces, say 10" long for making a normal cross cut. Is it stable by itself, stable/safe with the hold down in use? Clearer? :confused::p I appreciate the info you have given.



I'd say yes , I don't think I have ever used that hold down that comes with the saw.

I have use a wider , and longer sacrificial piece under the piece I was going to use , sort of a sub table / holder jig for odd small pieces . If that make sense.

And all sorts of cut to length jigs / stops , marks on the MDO bed for "common" door casing lengths where carpet Will "cover up " small differences.

If you look at my photo you'll see a 1/2" thick additional fence . If anything was lacking in the saws design it is /was ( could have been redesigned) the back fence being to short.

Only on the 5"ish and above crown molding do I use the lay down flat style of cutting it, I do crown the old "upside down and backwards " way that I was taught way long ago, in the day of the 36" Millerfalls back saw miter box.

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks Paul. If I decide to go with the Hitachi, I might build a cheater into the mobile station I'll have the saw on, so that I'll have the support I'm thinking ought to be there.
Jeff, I've sent Amazon a question about the use of the promotion code. If I get an answer, I'll post back here. I basically asked them what they constitute as a bench top tool, since the miter saw is not a free standing tool by itself.
Have a good weekend all! Jim.

[Jeff Wright]

Thanks Paul. If I decide to go with the Hitachi, I might build a cheater into the mobile station I'll have the saw on, so that I'll have the support I'm thinking ought to be there.
Jeff, I've sent Amazon a question about the use of the promotion code. If I get an answer, I'll post back here. I basically asked them what they constitute as a bench top tool, since the miter saw is not a free standing tool by itself.
Have a good weekend all! Jim.

Thanks Jim. I decided to buy the Hitachi C10FSH 10” Sliding Dual Compound Miter Saw with Laser Marker. I visited the Hitachi website and discovered the H model DOES have the dual bivel feature like the B model, plus for $10 additional also has the laser pointer. I figure for $10 more it's worth getting the lasers. Now to decide what to get for a stand . . . any suggestions?

[Jim O'Dell]

I'll be anxious to hear how you like it.
Stands? Build one! :D Actually a lot of people like the Ridgid MSUV, and many have commented that the older style was liked better. They were closed out at 99.00. Might luck into one hiding at a store near you.
I found this link just a few minutes ago, maybe others will be interested.
Amazon.com: Bosch 4212L 12-Inch Dual Bevel Compound Miter saw with Laser Tracking: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007LQQ0U/ref=amb_link_6055172_7?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_r=13EKHKKDHCW3T6XXXHRJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=344268001&pf_rd_i=760330)

I personally don't want a 12", but can a great price on a 10" be far behind???? Is this an older model? Anyone know?

Jeff, you didn't say where you got it from, local store, or on line? Jim.

[Jeff Wright]

Jeff, you didn't say where you got it from, local store, or on line? Jim.

I expect to order it from Amazon. Their special offer appears to include a 2 1/4HP router at no extra charge. I might use that as a dedicated router with my leigh dovetail jig.

[Ben Martin]

Well, it sounds like you made your choice. I have yet to hear much of a difference between the Hitachi and the Makita. I would have gone with the Makita, solely for the fact that it is Assembled in the USA. Hope you enjoy your new saw.

[Bob Feeser]

Every time I tout my favorite compound sliding miter saw, I feel that I may have offended everyone else that does not have that particular saw. Woodworkers grow fond of their tools, so why knock it. Instead I would rather talk about features. So here goes.

A vertical handle is grippable by either hand. Think about the problem you have with a horizontal handle. If you grip it with your right hand, you have a power on button under your index finger. If you grab it with your left hand, you squeeze the trigger with your pinky; an awkward feeling maneuver. You will find that although you favor positioning your workpiece off to the left, especially if you have a stop system, with a measure, but invariably, there are times when you want the workpiece off to the right, and want to grip the handle with your left hand. So the upright handles are ambidexterous, because with either hand you are squeezing the trigger with an index finger.
Accuracy. This is what 90 percent of the saw is all about. Not only accuracy in the miter cuts, but in the bevels as well.
The sliding mechanism. Is it built on dual rails, do they slide evenly and smoothly, or does it feel like it was made with square bearings, with a wierd vibration, as you slide it out, and push it in.
Motor positioning. Fan belt drives in heavy cast iron trunions, like in a table saw work well without vibration, BUT, consider what is going on in a sliding miter. You have an arm, that is only attached at one end in the back, at the end of a long arm, that is attached to a spinning blade, and a pulley. This long extended arm, with the blade spinning is now plunging through wood. A problem is that when trying to make a bevel by tilting the saw to the right, if the motor is positioned as a direct to blade drive, the motor gets in the way of the tilt. A belt drive allows you to get the motor out of the way, but I think at the expense of increased vibration. An alternative is do a direct drive attached right to the blade, and tilt the motor up at a 45 degree angle, so it is out of the way. When you compare this saw, and the bevel capacity in total degrees to the right, to the saws with the belt drives, at least on some of them, the saw with the 45 degree direct drive motor, beats them in capacity as well, with a steeper degree capacity, although not by more than a few degrees.
Quality blade included. Does it come with a cheapy blade, that requres an expensive replacement, or does it come with an expensive high quality blade that provides glass smooth, and I mean cuts as smooth as glass, right out of the box. No blade upgrade required.
12" saws have some blade wobble. That is true, but in the saws that I have both the 10 and 12" model, the blade wobble does not result in any imperfection in the net results of the cut. Glass smooth, not even tiny ridges in the cut, and accuarcy beyond measurement, even when checked with a Bosch digital protractor, which measures in tenths of a degree, which is equal to 3600 dots in a circle, no matter how small that circle is. And accurate at the detent stops throughout at that level of accuracy.
Quiet and smooth.
A cheap feeling with blades guards that seem to flap in the wind when you close the blade on a workpiece.
Ample power.
Does it throw waste scrap pieces flying at 100 miles per hour.
Is it built to be a brute work horse, while at the same time be a fine precision instrument.
Forget about the dust collection on any of them, although the dust bag fills up, it catches a small percentage of what flys out the back. Hard to get a saw cutting so many angles to catch everything. A trap built out the back is required if you want to catch everything.
Scales accuarate on the rules. Can you dial in a 25 degree bevel, by only using the rule and the pointer, and get an accurate cut that is so accurate, it is not off by a tenth of a degree.
Does it cost a little more than the cheapest saw. Is an up to $100 savings, in order to get a cheaper saw, really worth it if you get less than stellar results? Especially on a lifetime tool that you can use all of the time. Miter cuts on the table saw with a high quality miter gauge give you great results, but when you have a totally accurate miter saw, it is nice to drop the workpiece down, to a measured stop, and plunge away. No more making 4 45 degree cuts, and they do not fit perfectly when making a picture frame.That kinda covers the more important considerations. Maybe I will think of a few more and come back, but that about covers it at the moment.

[Matt Schell]

I have the 12" dewalt and have been very pleased with its durability and power but I do find it difficult to be extremely precise due to deflection with the 12" blade. I was given the saw by my father in law and I love it (and can't complain about the price) but I think I would feel more confident about accuracy with a 10" or maybe better yet a 8.5" slider. I do some hardwood floors on the side and it is aggravating carting that monster 12"er out on jobs when a "little" guy would suffice.

If money wasn't an object I think I would have a hard time deciding between a hitachi 8.5" slider and a hitachi 10" slider

[Bill Wyko]

I've got the Dewalt 12"CSMS. I've been able to be accurate using a quality, sharp blade. The one that came with it rang like the Liberty Bell. I don't trust the lazer. I do like that it's size is compact for the capacity it has. One little thing too is that you can't clamp a stop at 14-1/2 inches, the size of a block between studs. All in all, It's a very well built saw and easy to use for me. I'm ambidextrious and the flat handle doesn't bother me at all. I pull the trigger in the center of either hand. IMHO:) I give it a 7.5 out of 10.

[Jim O'Dell]

Yes, it does. Rebate for the router good on purchases through 1/31/08. If it was a plunge router, it would make the deal for me to the Hitachi for sure. (My PC plunge speed control went out a while back. I have it wired for full speed so it is usuable, but not as versatile as it was.)
I'll still report back if I get an answer from Amazon on the promo code. Jim.

[Jeff Wright]

Every time I tout my favorite compound sliding miter saw, I feel that I may have offended everyone else that does not have that particular saw. Woodworkers grow fond of their tools, so why knock it. Instead I would rather talk about features. So here goes. . .

Bob, notwithstanding your desire to NOT mention brand, what brand do you believe best meets your criteria? :D

[Jim Kountz]

I expect to order it from Amazon. Their special offer appears to include a 2 1/4HP router at no extra charge. I might use that as a dedicated router with my leigh dovetail jig.

Jeff if you do a Google search for "reconditioned Hitachi" you will save a pile of money on this and other Hitachi tools and get the same warranty. This is Hitachis factory authorized recondition tool site. Some people have strange aversions to recon tools, if you are one of them just ignore this but if not go save yourself some money. I have purchased from them as well as some others here on the Creek. Good company to deal with and free shipping on everything. Id give you the link here but the link police will arrest me for doing such a horrible thing! LOL

[Jim O'Dell]

Well, in the light of day after a good night's sleep, I see the link I provided in post 29 is not a slider. No wonder it was so cheap!!:o Jim.

ps. Jeff, the free router is good from Hitachi no matter where you purchase the unit. This is not an Amazon freebie, but a free tool from Hitachi by mail in rebate.

[Mark Rios]

Jeff if you do a Google search for "reconditioned Hitachi" you will save a pile of money on this and other Hitachi tools and get the same warranty. This is Hitachis factory authorized recondition tool site. Some people have strange aversions to recon tools, if you are one of them just ignore this but if not go save yourself some money. I have purchased from them as well as some others here on the Creek. Good company to deal with and free shipping on everything. Id give you the link here but the link police will arrest me for doing such a horrible thing! LOL



JIm K., you can paste in the link and just substitute the (.) for (dot) i.e.,

blahblahblah(dot)com

This is okay.

(If it isn't apparent, I'm interested in your link. :D)

[scottj owen]

Jeff,
when it comes to buying tools I think the "different strokes for different folks applies" . I have a makita 10" slider and a Bosch 12" slider, I might as well sell the makita, I use the bosch for everything and the main reason is the lever for your bevels is at the front of the saw, most saws you have to reach around the back. Happy woodworking with whatever you buy!

[Jim O'Dell]

Just a note to folks following this thread. I just noticed that Amazon has dropped the price on the Makita LS1013FL to 475.00 sometime in the last few hours. Free shipping, and I think this unit gets a 35.00 Amazon certificate to be mailed to you after 90 days. It's getting there. I'll be anxious to see if it continues to fall in price. Jim.

[Jeff Wright]

I'm going to place an order for the Hitachi tonite. Am I correct in thinking it DOES NOT come with a blade? If not, I will add the Forrest Chopmaster blade as well.

[Allen Bookout]

Just a note to folks following this thread. I just noticed that Amazon has dropped the price on the Makita LS1013FL to 475.00 sometime in the last few hours. Free shipping, and I think this unit gets a 35.00 Amazon certificate to be mailed to you after 90 days. It's getting there. I'll be anxious to see if it continues to fall in price. Jim.

Heavydutytools has it for $448 with free shipping. http://www.heavydutytools.net/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=495

EDIT: Sorry----I see that they are out of stock now.

[Paul Girouard]

I'm going to place an order for the Hitachi tonite. Am I correct in thinking it DOES NOT come with a blade? If not, I will add the Forrest Chopmaster blade as well.


It'll come with a blade but not a great one . I like Freud blades but if Forrest is your normal blade order one. Make sure it's designed for SCMS hook angles vary , I'd think the Forrest guys would have a blade designed for SCMS.

Merry Christmas to me/ you !:D