Cutting Board Sealing/Maintanance

[alex grams]

I have made some cutting boards, but notice several things happening once they are made and sealed.

After first sealing them (with mineral oil), the joints swell a little and need to be sanded down again and resealed (no biggie, i can do this, it just kills some sandpaper).

Also, when made, my larger boards are bowing a little when they are washed and scrubbed. Is this due to the wood not absorbing enough oil when first being sealed?

My method of sealing with mineral oil is to wipe them down and let them soak wet a while, then wipe off any excess, and repeat. It usually takes only 10 minutes for the wood to soak up most of the oil.

I use maple and some walnut for patterns, though 90% of the wood is hard maple.

Advice, suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

[Gary Keedwell]

I built an end-grain board a couple of weeks ago and used mineral oil on both sides. After a few days of laying on granite counter top it bowed on me. A little dismayed, I was going to bring it back down to me basement but instead turned it over to the other side. Sure enough the bow dissapeared and it was flat again.
Now I just flip it over once in awhile. I think when you lay it down the moisture transfer bows it because the bottom doesn't get air. Maybe if you put feet under it, like stickering , it will breath equally.

Gary

[Bill Huber]

I have read that you need to apply the oil many times over time, not just once. It was something like this, Once and hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year and then once a year there after. Now I really don't know if that is true or not.

On my boards I use 50% salad bowl finish and 50% mineral sprites. I apply it on the top until it comes though the bottom and then turn it over and apply it until it come though the top. Wipe off the excess and let it set for a day.
Then I do it all over again and let it set for a day. I then sand the top with 220 and put a finial coat of the 50/50 on it. I only have a few boards that have been out there really long enough to say how they are doing. I have 3 of them that are about 7 months old and they are used every day and are still looking good, there are knife marks on them but they still are flat and look good.
I also on some boards put a coat of heated bees wax and mineral oil on as a last coat and then buff it out, it make then look really nice, but I just do it for looks.

[Bill Huber]

I built an end-grain board a couple of weeks ago and used mineral oil on both sides. After a few days of laying on granite counter top it bowed on me. A little dismayed, I was going to bring it back down to me basement but instead turned it over to the other side. Sure enough the bow dissapeared and it was flat again.
Now I just flip it over once in awhile. I think when you lay it down the moisture transfer bows it because the bottom doesn't get air. Maybe if you put feet under it, like stickering , it will breath equally.

Gary

I put feet on all my boards so the air can get under it and dry them good. The problem I have is the way I make my board you can turn them over so I really hope they don't warp.

[Gary Keedwell]

I put feet on all my boards so the air can get under it and dry them good. The problem I have is the way I make my board you can turn them over so I really hope they don't warp.
I made my board without feet and only radius the edges on one side (top). I had heard that end grain doesn't cup. That is wrong. Without proper ventilation IT WILL CUP. DAMHIK
Gary

[alex grams]

Mine have feet, so there is ample air that is able to move around the board.

I think i just need to soak it longer in oil and more often before i put them to use.

[Russ Filtz]

Maybe you can mix in some hot beeswax into the MO? I think i have heard that being used for cutting boards. Seems like that would help seal better.