Ash Ebony Dye - Wrong

[Chris Jenkins]

I bought some powdered black dye from Lee Valley in hopes of Ebonizing some Ash. I have seen some samples of this and samples of Oak. The ones I saw the open grain actually dyed darker and solid in color. With my ash it did quite the opposite. The open grain didn't stain well at all.

I used only a small small portion tapped into warm water (granted it wasn't distilled water, we have slightly hard water). The water was jet black. The wood was freshly planed with my #4 Lie so it was nice and smooth and ready for even coloring.

When I put the dye on it kind of sat on the surface more than anything. I loaded up the surface so much the water was standing jet black like a sheet of black slate on the top. Wiped it off minimally after soaking for several minutes. I did it again in the morning and this is what I got.

What am I doing wrong so the open grain doesn't dye.

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[Jim Tobias]

When I have tried to dye a light wood black, it takes a very strong mix (a lot of powder) to get the dye strong enough to do the job. Also, I know that the ash has open pores, but you might actually have it too smmoth for the dye to penetrate enough. If you can, you might try sanding the surface a little (maybe 180 grit) and then dye again to see if that makes a difference.

Jim

[Steve Schoene]

In species like ash, the linings of the pores often do seem to be coated with a almost waxy substance that keeps the dye from penetrating. Sanding to a coarser grit is going to have zero effect with dye, as opposed to pigment, which needs somewhere to lodge.

Two solutions are available. One is to use a different dye. The Arti company makes a dye called ArtiPorin which is specifically designed for this situation. It is carried by Highland Hardward.

The other is to use a black pigment stain which will then accumulate in the pores.

I assume you also know that the color will look quite a bit different under the first coat of an oil based top coat. Bare dye often looks quite a bit different than when finished, though I don't think that is what is happening here.

[Todd Burch]

I know abosultely nothing about water based dyes, but if you can run a quick test (to humor me if nothing else), do this. Wipe down a test piece of ash with rubbing alcohol first. Rubbing alcohol will break down the cohesion of water, and in (my) theory, allow the water/dye solution to get down into the pores. Be sure to put the dye on while the board is still wet from the rubbing alcohol.

Todd

[Chris Jenkins]

I've heard of people using India Ink. I have never used it, how well does that penetrate the surface?

[Jared Cuneo]

I posted some pics of a bookshelf I did awhile back here that was dyed with India Ink.

It worked exceptionally well. I tried some of the liquid dye too and that had a weird blue tinge.

The ink was true black and dried very quickly. The only thing I regret was brushing the sealcoat and waterlox on too thick....Other than that, it looks great.

Beware however, its expensive......about $25 in ink for a 60x28x14 bookshelf....2 coats....3 would have been even better....the ash really soaks it up....

JC