Plane restoration questions

[Thom Sturgill]

After asking about what planes to buy, I bought a LN 102 LA brass block plane :D and several old Stanleys from eBay:

#3 Type 16 or 17 (tote painted black, but otherwise seems to match type 16) This is in rough shape, very rusty

#3 Type 11 very clean. Only needs the blade sharpened (and maybe the sole touched up) to be usable. Definite keeper.

#4 Type 10 Rusty, I have already done some cleaning in citric acid and scrubbed with a soft wire brush to knock off any scale.

#5C Type 11 Broken tote, which has been ground down damaging the brass keeper. Blade is worn to where is can't be reground. The jappaning on the base casting has been 'replaced' (spray paint?) and removed from the frog.

I plan on keeping the one #3 as-is with only minor work on the sole and sharpening of the blade. The other #3 and the #4 I intend to try to restore to usable condition, the #3 more for practice and the #4 to use. I do have another #4 coming and I will keep the better of the two. The others will be sold or kept for parts. My questions are:

1) To what extent should I consider restoring the japanning ? I not at all, what should I do about protecting the raw casting?

2) Should I replace the broken tote & keeper on the #5C ? or simply glue it back together?

3) To what extent would you clean/refinish the wooden parts?

I know these issues are probably controversial, and I do not mean to start any arguments. :eek:
From my point of view these are first and foremost tools, and should be treated as such. None are so valuable or rare that they MUST be preserved as antiques. On the other hand, I have no objection to having them show their age as long as it does not detract from their functionality.

[Marcus Ward]

Keep in mind I'm a user not a collector - screw the japanning! Soak em in citric until they're clean and then wax em like mad. Try gluing it back together, if that won't work, get a new one although with some west system epoxy you can glue almost anything back together. I don't refinish varnished parts usually. Only if I have to just because it doesn't affect the function.

[Thom Sturgill]

I was really thinking about the painted tote. Problem is that that seems to be the only feature that would date it as a type 17.

[Marcus Ward]

IF that's the original tote. Does the knob match? If it does, repair it and then paint it if you want. I don't think it's a big deal if it's not a #1 or #2. Collectors go all crazy but you can't swing a dead cat around without hitting a #5. I have 6 of em. :\

[jonathan snyder]

I agree with Marcus. User planes don't need japanning, and collectors wont want a re-japanned plane. Citric acid and paste wax is a good way to go. I don't like varnish, so I often strip and refinish with shellac. Here (https://home.comcast.net/%7Estanleyplanes/planes101/handle_repair/handle.htm) is a tutorial on tote repair.

Type 11's are my favorite. Have fun with them.

Jonathan

[jonathan snyder]

Collectors go all crazy but you can't swing a dead cat around without hitting a #5. I have 6 of em. :\

Dead cats or #5's?;)

[Thom Sturgill]

The #3 knob and tote are painted and in poor shape, and probably not rosewood. The #5 has a broken tote, but is a nice looking piece of rosewood. I was thinking of repairing/ refinishing the wood and replacing the brass keeper. If I don't like the feel when I'm finished I may replace the tote as it was ground down to make it slightly shorter. It may not be original.

[Clint Jones]

Make your own totes and if you have a lathe make the knobs too. I wrote up a how to make your own totes and used mainly hand tools (DP was the only power tool). PM me if you want a link. Here is another one I made out of walnut this weekend.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff224/leonard_bailey/tottes.jpg

Took around 2 hours. If you make your own you can custom size them to your tastes. I like wider grips and longer,thinner, sweeping horns.

[jonathan snyder]

Very nice tote Clint! You nailed the curves. I'd be interested in your tutorial.

Jonathan

[Clint Jones]

Very nice tote Clint! You nailed the curves. I'd be interested in your tutorial.

Jonathan
Its not the curves, its the hole drilling that is tricky but I found a way to make it easier. I'll pm you the link. -Clint

[Zahid Naqvi]

Hey Clint why don't you post the link here on the forum, some of us can also benefit from it.

[Clint Jones]

Hey Clint why don't you post the link here on the forum, some of us can also benefit from it.
Sure, I'll do it let me move it over here real quick. I meant to do it over here also. Did you see the little scraper plane I made, I think you might appreciate it;)

[Thom Sturgill]

Sure, I'll do it let me move it over here real quick. I meant to do it over here also. Did you see the little scraper plane I made, I think you might appreciate it;)

Nice tote, I see you posted the tutorial, thanks

[William C. Hall]

Where can I get citric acid? I have also acquired some ebay planes and need to restore them.

[Thom Sturgill]

Where can I get citric acid? I have also acquired some ebay planes and need to restore them.

Several places on eBay express carried it and several people have said to go to places that carry brewing supplies. I soaked one last night but was not particularly impressed. Perhaps if I had taken it directly to a wire wheel instead of just using a hand brush in the soak...
I may not have had the concentration high enough since I only measured by eye...

[Marcus Ward]

You have to try a higher concentration or leave it in for hours. I left a nasty #8 in for a whole day once to get it clean. It will clean it, however. My recommendation for 4-5oz per gallon of water results in hours of soaking time, not minutes. Don't wire brush it, just ignore it. Be patient. This ain't naval jelly.

[Ken Werner]

I'm with Z. Please post your tutorial Clint.

Ken

[Phillip Pattee]

You can get citric acid cheaply at any home brew or winemaking supply store. There are dozens of them on the internet. You can also get citric acid at one of the nutrition/vitamin stores--but you'll pay too much for it. Be careful, people prone to slippery slopes need not spend too much time in a home brew supply store. Home brewed beer sure tastes good though.

[jonathan snyder]

I have successfully used citric acid a number of times. I use a 16:1 ratio; water:citric acid. Even on a very rusty item 2-3 hours usually does it. I wire brush the item vigorously every 1/2 or so. I think this really helps. I once left a heavily rusted 125 yr old weather vane in solution for 3 days, it took a bit of elbow grease, but all the rust came off. I'm not sure if it is really an issue or not, but some folks talk of the possibility of hydrogen embrittlement if the metal is left in solution too long.

Jonathan