Cleaning and other questions about old planes

[James Henne]

This is my first post, so please be gentle!
In an attempt to simplify and better enjoy my somewhat new woodworking hobby, I have recently decided to invest in some older Stanley planes. Although I had considered going with a brand new LN or LV, I just LOVE the old Stanley planes. Besides, I figured that I could acquire several old planes to play around with and learn on for the price of one new LN or LV. Maybe when I have developed some skills I'll invest in something new ...
Anyway, I bought an old Stanley #4C and #5 on Ebay, and plan to pick up a #7 sometime in the future. I also have inherited one or two from my father/grandfather (not yet in my possession). I am happy with my purchases thus far, but I have a few questions that I thought you folks could help me with:

1) How can I best clean these old planes up? I'm not trying to make them look new, but I do want to respect and care for them properly. I plan a thorough cleaning initially, with subsequent touch-ups as needed. Some are just 'grungy' and a few have some minor surface rust. I am especially concerned about the rust as I live in a coastal location and would like to keep it in check.
2) The irons on all of these planes have been used, but are dull. I plan to sharpen with the appropriate stones. My question is: do I NEED a bench grinder or can I do pretty much everything I need with stones/sandpaper? I can buy a bench grinder (or use a friend's) but this goes against my desire to simplify. Any opinions???
3) The #4C I bought on Ebay came with an unexpected bonus (I think). The iron was stamped with the SW sweetheart logo. This was not listed as a selling point in the auction, even though I have noticed that these cutters seem to command higher bids for these old planes. I am embarrassed to say that I don't know exactly what advantage these irons offer. Could someone explain?

That's enough for now. Feel free to simply post links to other threads or websites if you know where I can find the answers to my questions. Thanks in advance!
-James

[jonathan snyder]

James,

Welcome to the Creek. Here (https://home.comcast.net/%7Estanleyplanes/planes101/planes101.htm) is a good site to get you started. You might also search the forum here. Tune up the plane, sharpen the iron and try it out before you mess with trying to flatten the sole. The sole probably does not need flattening, and you may mess it up trying. Only flatten the sole as a last resort.

Some will suggest getting after-market irons and chip-breakers. Use it first with the OME parts, before you decide if you want to upgrade.

Depending on haw bad the iron is you may or may not want to regrind on a grinder. You can do it on sandpaper, but it might take a while. If you use a grinder, use a cool wheel, and be careful not to burn the steel.

Sweethart trademarks seem to be valued by collectors, why I don't know. I sure someone else can enlighten us. I don't think the steel is any better or worse than the earlier V logo irons.

Have fun, and show us some pictures.

Jonathan

[Marcus Ward]

I think the V logo irons hold an edge better but between a SW and a V logo the difference is academic. If it were me I'd hone that edge on sandpaper, google "Scary Sharp" and go to town. I hone my original bevel with a belt sander upside down (el cheapo harbor freight, it gets the job done!) and then hone on glass/sandpaper. I can shave with my irons and it's easy to get there. I have honed original bevels on just sandpaper, I would recommend a jig if you're not a ninja sharpener yet. To clean the plane, soak all the parts in a solution of citric acid (4 oz per gallon available from homebrew supply stores such as www.morebeer.com) for several hours and they will be spotless. Clean em up with a brass wire wheel. Citric acid doesn't destroy the japanning, I have seen that electrolysis will, depending on how you do it so I stick with citric acid. Congratulations on your ascension to galootdom. It's the best place to be, in my opinion. By all means if you have questions, post!! For every person who posts a question, 20 benefit from it. The exchange of knowledge is the important thing. Nobody (especially in neanderthal-land) cares if you're a newbie.

[Mark Stutz]

Great questions, and welcome to the forum. The link that Jonathan gave you will keep you reading for a while. The other method of rust removal to consider is Evaporust. Not cheap but very effective.

Power is your fried when it comes to sharpening. It is boring, tediuos, tiring and time consuming to do it all with sandpaper or stones. A belt sander works great. Search here for posts by Derek Cohen for his belt sander set up. The only advantage to a bench grinder is that you can put other wheels...brass wire wheels, deburring wheels etc, that will be helpful is plane rehab.

While I understand the sentiment of getting old planes to learn on, my problem when starting out was that I didn't know what my end result should be. If you know or have someone that can show you what useing a tuned plane is like, even a class, it will give you something to shoot for. If not a "new" plane, or one rehabbed by somone with experience, could be very valuable in your start down this slope.

[James Henne]

Thank you Jonathan, Marcus, and Mark for your thoughtful replies. For someone new like myself, simply searching through old threads is much like reading instructions with every other paragraph removed. The specific information that you supplied was very helpful and 'filled in the blanks' for me.
Thanks again,
James

[Bill White]

My first good plane was a 4C. It is still my go-to plane unless I need something smaller. Clean it up, tune it up, and you'll never wear it out.
Bill

[James Henne]

Thanks again for the *very* helpful replies. Before posting, I had "lurked" around several woodworking forums, but decided to join and post to SMC because I thought I would get the best and friendliest advice here ... I have not been disappointed! Anyway, I think that my questions have been answered:
1) Cleaning has been covered, both from the replies to my original post and from a few PMs that others have sent to me. Thank you!
2) I had already looked into the "scary sharp" method and planned to give it a shot, but I was not aware of the belt sander method. I have looked up Derek Cohen's methods here and can use my belt sander for this. Again, thanks!
3) My question about the sweetheart logo was not really important; I'm not a collector/reseller. It seems that others are not sure either. However, I will continue to search for a definitive answer ... because (unfortunately) that is my nature. So, if anyone else happens across this post and can tell me what the lure of the sweetheart logo is, be it for using or collecting, please let me know.
I appreciate the input and advice from all.
Many, many thanks--James

[Marcus Ward]

The SW logo (Stanley Works) is both for using and collecting. Collectors like it because it's such an easily identifiable mark for a good era of stanley tools. If it's got that, it's the 'right years'. Users like em because they were still made with good steel back then and hold an edge very well. At least, that's what I think.

[Mark Stutz]

James,
I forgot about the Sweetheart question in my other response. I am in no way a definitive expert, but from what I have gleaned, is that planes in general from the "Sweetheart era" were felt to be the high point of Stanley plane production, not just something special about the irons. I've also heard that this is just a lot of hype, and people just like the looks of that particular logo!:D. There are probably other explanations floating around as well...not sure there is a definitive answer.

Mark

[Clint Jones]

So, if anyone else happens across this post and can tell me what the lure of the sweetheart logo is, be it for using or collecting, please let me know.
I appreciate the input and advice from all.
Many, many thanks--James

SW blades are the last of the laminated stanley irons. They have a softer layer up front and a harder back for a longer lasting edge. This makes the plane easier to sharpen. The SW planes are also the last of the frog design with a larger machined surface for the blade to rest on. I have a full set of SW planes 1-8 just because the cute little heart gives me the warm fuzzies.

Fun Fact- The SW logo was adopted in 1920 to commemorate the retirement of William heart , long time president of the Stanley Works (1884-1916).

[James Henne]

Good information -- thank you!
-James