TransTint Ratios?

[Sean Kinn]

Disclaimer: Yes I know you should always test on a sample first....but I didn't. The holiday rush and an impending trip to the in-laws had me working at a pace that I know better than to attempt.

However, I mixed up some transtint golden brown in the recommended ratio on the bottle applied it to some maple....and when it dried it was way darker than the color samples on the website. I know colors can vary due to monitors bla bla bla, but it is way darker than the sample. Has anyone else found the recommended ratio to be way off? My next question is why is it so far off? The samples on their site are on maple...so I was expecting it to at least be pretty close. Lesson learned (reminder really) ALWAYS DO A TEST PIECE.

I guess I'm just really shocked at the difference between the samples and the final product. Up until now I've just used cheap minwax stains, but they at least yielded a color essentially identical to the sample tile at the big box store. Don't get me wrong, I love the ease of the dye, and lack of blotchiness....but man this caught me off guard. I'm out of time to get the project done, so I had to just trudge on and finish it as opposed to bleaching it back or sanding the whole project.

[keith ouellette]

I have not used the trans tints yet but I do know that some hard maple is much darker than others. I have a board that was white on one half and brown on the other. I would think it would dye darker on the dark side than the white side. That could account for it but I really don't know for sure. (Meaning the sample may have been done on a much lighter piece.)

[Sean Kinn]

Well, I didn't have any major differences in the wood to begin with, it was all clear and white....but Keith's post got me thinking. All of the pieces except the tabletop came from a 8/4 slab (moderately figured), and the top was from a seperate bookmatched set (extremely figured).

Looking at the table in the sunlight the top is the darkest and the remaining parts are closer to the golden brown but still darker than expected. I'm thinking it was a combination of the heavy figure in the top absorbing more dye, the fact that I used different wood for the top, and me mixing a dye ratio that was still too strong. I also think that I had become used to stains sitting more on the surface than absorbing in like the dye. Next time I'll be sure to follow the rules and do a test piece. I can see the benefits of the dye, and the ease of application was great.....time for more experimenting.

Oh, and thanks for listening to my rant. Next year I need to start on these projects much earlier!

[mike holden]

Let me get this off my chest - ALWAYS do a test piece!

There, I feel better now,
There are a number of reasons why dyes or stains do not look like the pictures.

However, there is one saving grace to dyes - they can wash off!
flood the piece with water and rub gently with a cloth, you will remove a great deal of the dye. Do it long enough and you will remove virtually all the dye.

Then dilute the dye mix you have - maybe triple or quadruple the water and try again.
It is much easier to add a second coat than remove, but removal is possible.
Mike

[Larry Fox]

Sorry to hear of your troubles. When using the dyes I have found the ratios to be a good starting point but I typically add more carrier (water or alcohol) than they recommend. I then apply multiple light coats and "sneak" up on the color that I want to achieve as opposed to trying to get it in one shot. Also, for next time, the dye doesn't penetrate very far at all so it is fairly easy to sand off (DAMHIKT). Another thing about the dyes is that you can modify the colors so you are not stuck with what comes out of the bottle if you don't like it. For example: Too much Red? Try a little green (opposite on the color wheel) etc.

[Sean Kinn]

Yep, I accept the responsibility on this one. I know better than to not do a test piece. That's what I get for rushing. Now I've been reminded! Like I said I'm new to the dyes. I didn't even think of wiping it down with just water to remove some of the dye...great tip.

[mike holden]

Sean,
One more thing, dont judge the color until you apply the topcoat.
My favorite mahogany finish looks bright red until I apply the waterlox, then it tones down to a nice dark mahogany brown. But its scary when you first apply it.

Mike

[Sean Kinn]

:D:DPROJECT SAVED!!! THANKS ALL!!:D:D


I had already applied two very light coats of wipe-on poly, so I figured all hope was lost. Since I was already frustrated, and figured I couldn't really do any more harm, I decided to experiment on the bottom of the tabletop. I performed a good buffing with a grey scotch brite pad. I then flooded the area with water and allowed it to sit for 30 seconds or so. I was then able to wipe with a clean rag and remove some of the dye a little at a time. By alternating wiping with a clean wet rag and continued buffing I was able to bring it back. I thought for sure I was doomed with the two coats of poly, but I was very pleasantly surprised.

I'm absolutely sold on this dye now. The flexibility of this stuff (and correctability) is amazing. Thanks for all of your suggestions everyone, you nailed it. The wealth of knowledge and experience here can't be beat!