Featherboard Placement - A Question

[Glen Blanchard]

As I understand the use of featherboards on the table saw, they should be placed on the infeed side of the blade, and should never be placed in such a manner that the featherboard would push the stock against the side of the blade. What about the outfeed side of the blade? This would seem to be poor practice in most cuts, as it would close the kerf, thus increasing the likelihood of kickback. However, what about a cut where the side of the board is being only lightly trimmed, and no kerf is created? A featherboard on the outfeed side of the blade in such an operation would not seem be dangerous, but using one in such a manner would indeed help keep the stock against the fence.

Does all this sound right?

[Glenn Clabo]

Glen,
The use of a featherboard is to reduce the possiblity of kickback. You can use two...but the one in front of the blade should "push" against the fence. The one behind the blade should be used to hold the wood down on the fence side only. Otherwise you are just asking trouble.

[Ken Shoemaker]

I personally wouldn't do it, not experienced enough I guess. It's too much a leap of faith that the stock removed will be sufficent to slide easily into the FB. It would be a bad time to find out something was not set up right with a blade spinning at you.

Like I said, not enough experience here .. Ken

[Gary Keedwell]

Although featherboards obviously help prevent kickback, my number one reason to use a featherboard to keep my stock against the fence is so the widths of my cuts are parallel the whole length of the board that I am ripping. ( boy, was that a long sentence?) :)
Gary

[Glen Blanchard]

Although featherboards obviously help prevent kickback, my number one reason to use a featherboard to keep my stock against the fence is so the widths of my cuts are parallel the whole length of the board that I am ripping. ( boy, was that a long sentence?) :)
Gary

Yes, and it is in that light that I asked this question.

[Paul Girouard]

#1: As I understand the use of featherboards on the table saw, they should be placed on the infeed side of the blade, and should never be placed in such a manner that the featherboard would push the stock against the side of the blade.

#2: What about the outfeed side of the blade?

(a) This would seem to be poor practice in most cuts, as it would close the kerf, thus increasing the likelihood of kickback.

(b) However, what about a cut where the side of the board is being only lightly trimmed, and no kerf is created?

(c) A featherboard on the outfeed side of the blade in such an operation would not seem be dangerous, but using one in such a manner would indeed help keep the stock against the fence.

#3: Does all this sound right?



#1: True.

#2: (a) True .

(b) A rare occasion, but yes IF that condition existed the wood is beyond the blade and is not a worry , UNLESS a knot breaks , a split happens , there a LARGE amount of "tension" in the wood and it wants to "walk" on you. So a feather board beyond the blade may in rare conditions be useful, but again it would be a uncommon event.

(c) See (b) I think I covered that there.

#3: Well about 50 /50 I think. Problem is with tablesaws and power tools you need to be right almost 100 % of the time, they have no conscience and show no Mercy.

[Gary Keedwell]

As I understand the use of featherboards on the table saw, they should be placed on the infeed side of the blade, and should never be placed in such a manner that the featherboard would push the stock against the side of the blade. What about the outfeed side of the blade? This would seem to be poor practice in most cuts, as it would close the kerf, thus increasing the likelihood of kickback. However, what about a cut where the side of the board is being only lightly trimmed, and no kerf is created? A featherboard on the outfeed side of the blade in such an operation would not seem be dangerous, but using one in such a manner would indeed help keep the stock against the fence.

Does all this sound right?
Glen...I read your post too fast.:o I have never used a featherboard on the outfeed of a table saw blade but essentially what your saying is you just want to take a "skim cut". I think it wouldn't hurt but that is why I installed Board Buddies on my TS. The angle of my BB pushes the stock down and against my fence because of the angle of the roller.
Gary

[Jesse Cloud]

I wouldn't put a featherboard on the outfeed side. A splitter will help keep the piece against the fence. The MicroJig splitter even has options for adding a little extra pressure in that direction.

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Jesse. My MJ Spliter takes care of this task quite well. A featherboard out there would makeme nervous in the "what if" department.

[Gary Keedwell]

Yea, besides by Board Buddies< I installed a splitter a few weeks ago. I does push it towards the fence. I made my own from 1/8th aluminum plate and it attatches right to my saw.
Gary

[Lee Schierer]

I agree with Glen. Use one on the infeed side to hold stock tight to the fence. You can also use two in the infeed side one pushing in and one pushing down. If you want you can hold stock down against the table on the outfeed side right next to the fence and it should only contact the piece between the blade and the fence not both and never on the cut off side of the blade away from the fence. It is never a good idea on a through cut to push the piece being cut off against the blade or toward the blade. So don't use feather boards behind the leading edge of the blade on any through cuts.

In blind cuts (cutting dadoes or grooves), you can place feather boards behind the blade to secure the work without worry as the wood can't be pushed into the teeth coming up out of the table or the side of the blade.

Personally I like the magnetic feather boards because they work well and can be set up and removed fast. Fast set up means they get used.

In any case the use of feather boards is good practice they tend to keep your fingers away from the blade.

[Glenn Clabo]

Like this Lee?

[John Newell]

If you want you can hold stock down against the table on the outfeed side right next to the fence and it should only contact the piece between the blade and the fence not both and never on the cut off side of the blade away from the fence.

This is common with router table setups, no?

[Lee Schierer]

Like this Lee?

Yep. That set up will work. So does this one. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/raisedpanel4.jpg The second feather board only touches the part of th panel above the cut line, leaving the cutoff free to fall away from the blade. (Note, the clamps and backer guide board are used to allow the rip cut on the narrow panel without the worry of the panel tilting as the cut is made.)

[Glenn Clabo]

Hey Lee...I like the little wheels on the side. Never seen that before...your idea?

[Lee Schierer]

Hey Lee...I like the little wheels on the side. Never seen that before...your idea?
Those are from the Griptite folks and were part of the package Grip Tite was selling at the woodshow where I bought mine. They sell them through their website and telephone person. They are for ripping. The roller is mounted on a slight angle so that as you push a board through the cut, the roller will push the board to the fence. Even if the board is away from the fence it will still push it tight to the fence. I've never seen them advertised in any of the places that sell Grip Tites other than the Grip tite site roller guide (http://www.grip-tite.com/rollerguide.html) I love mine.

[Glenn Clabo]

Oh...I got an old one which is wood and has clear plastic parts and not little level to pop it off...and what I thought was a new one...yellow plastic with black plastic and a level. I love these things...always findin way to use them.

[Eddie Darby]

If I am right in understanding that the reason you want to do this is so that the cut is even across the whole board.

Sounds like you are jointing to me.

ShopNotes No. 96:
"Mastering the Table Saw

46 / Jointing on the Table Saw

No jointer, no worries. All you need is your table saw and a simple, shop-built auxiliary fence."



http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/096/

================================================== ====

I place two featherboards before the blade, and the piece comes out just fine every time. One really wide featherboard would do as well. It is the total distance between the first, and last contact points that adds stability.

There is no room for the wood to pivot with widely spaced contact points.

I use a zero clearance insert, and a splitter behind the blade.

[Glen Blanchard]

If I am right in understanding that the reason you want to do this is so that the cut is even across the whole board.

Sounds like you are jointing to me.



Hi Eddie. I assume your post is directed to me, so I will respond accordingly.

No, I am not referring to jointing on the table saw. I was actually referring to a board that has already been properly jointed and made square on both faces and both sides. If I am wanting to make the board narrower by (let's say) slightly less than 1/8", I will not be creating a kerf, as the thickness of my blade is greater than the amount of stock I am removing. My original question was regarding the use of a featherboard on both the infeed and outfeed side of the table saw in such an operation. The reason for considering the placement on the outfeed side in this particular operation is that it did not seem to introduce a hazard of kickback and would help keep the board against the fence.

Hope that clarifies things a bit.

[Andrew Shaber]

It doesn't really answer your question but for the scenario you describe, I find I have no trouble keeping the work piece against the fence when finishing the cut (after it has exited the leading featherboard) If you use outfeed support with rollers, you want to make sure they are angled correctly to not push your board.