A Couple of Newbie Questions

[Rusty Elam]

Hi, here are a couple of probably simple questions from someone who is just getting into hand tools and liking it.

1. I just went and bought a new set of the Marples Blue handle chisels as a start to upgrade from my cheap stuff and ther seems to be a coating on them from the factory (looks like lacquer), how do I go about removing it?

2.When you guys talk about honing a new chisel are you saying start from scratch or just the finer grades?

3. I recently bought a Stanley #80 scraper because I enjoyed using a regular card one so much but my old fingers got tired after a while. My question is that the blade on it appears to be more like a plane iron and they suggest sharpening it much differently than a regular scraper and I was wondering how you guys sharpen yours.

4.I started using the scrapers after after a couple of long sessions of sanding with a power sander and then hacking all night and I have to admit that I loved the feel of working by hand, but my question is do you hand work guys still do alot of finish sanding or just plane/scrape finish?

Thanks in advance from someone starting to slide...

Rusty

[Mark Stutz]

Welcome to the Enlightened side of woodworking!:D If it is is laquer on the Marples, I'd just use laquer thinner, though I don't remember mine having any coating, but that was several years ago. You shouldn't have to do any shaping on the bevels, but you'll need to flatten the backs. Slow, tedious boring work, by hand at least, but essential to a good edge, and you only have to do it once. This is where some tailed help comes in handy if you have it. Depending on what you use to sharpen, I'd start with 1000waterstone, and go up from there. Look at the bevel after a few strokes, and if it looks like it will take forever, go up in grit size. Maybe someone who uses Scary Sharp will chime in with what grit to use in that system.

Can't help on the #80, as I'm still struggling with that one as well. I try to use as little sandpaper as possible. If I can I go from the plane or scraper to a finish, though I rarely use stain of any kind. HTH.

Mark

[Rusty Elam]

Thanks for the help Mark, you probably know when your just getting into this stuff there are a million questions.
I have to admit originally thought this Neanderthal stuff was for a bunch of crazy fanatics but it is amazing how it makes you feel like you are REALLY crafting something...kind of hard to explain but it feels right....the wood...you..blah blah blah...I can see how it is addicting

[Mark Stutz]

Rusty,
As far as questions go, that's what this is all about. Now don't tell anybody, but a lot of us are crazy,:D and there's even a few fanatics:eek:, but you're right, it is a wonderful feeling. It just doesn't feel the same. If you think planes are addicting, just wait till you discover saws, and chisels, and braces, and...:eek::D.

Mark

[harry strasil]

When finding used 80's you will often find that the top protruding edge is also sharpened, a lot of old timers did both edges so they would have another edge to use without stopping and dressing the one in use. This can be dangerous if you get careless with it laying on the bench or accidently get your hand in contact with it.

As I remember I hone the edges of my 80 blade square like a normal card style and just put a very slight burr at a slight angle on both sides, top and bottom so that I have 4 edges to use before having to remove it and redress the edges. You can also just file and hone the edges a perfect 90 and then hone both faces and it will work well but will not take remove as much wood as quickly

[Alan Turner]

Hi, here are a couple of probably simple questions from someone who is just getting into hand tools and liking it.

1. I just went and bought a new set of the Marples Blue handle chisels as a start to upgrade from my cheap stuff and ther seems to be a coating on them from the factory (looks like lacquer), how do I go about removing it?

2.When you guys talk about honing a new chisel are you saying start from scratch or just the finer grades?

3. I recently bought a Stanley #80 scraper because I enjoyed using a regular card one so much but my old fingers got tired after a while. My question is that the blade on it appears to be more like a plane iron and they suggest sharpening it much differently than a regular scraper and I was wondering how you guys sharpen yours.

4.I started using the scrapers after after a couple of long sessions of sanding with a power sander and then hacking all night and I have to admit that I loved the feel of working by hand, but my question is do you hand work guys still do alot of finish sanding or just plane/scrape finish?

Thanks in advance from someone starting to slide...

Rusty

Rusty -- All good, solid questions.

1. I have not seen lacquer on the Marples, but it is common on new Two Cherries. We recommend lacquer thinner and a maroon colored non-woven abrasive for removal.

2. New chisels have a factory grind, which is usually fine, but the back of a chisel needs lapping, and the cutting edge needs honing. Lap once only, and then only relap with your finest stone or paper. Note that a perfectly sharp edge is the intersection of two truly flat planes, with the back being one of those planes.

3. A scraper plane is ground and honed at 45 degrees. Some will then pull a very light burr, as on a card scraper, and some will not. I use one only rarely and so would not claim enough expertise to give you any guidance.

4. Unless the wood is awfully unfriendly, plane, scrape, and then sand, usually starting with 220, and often ending there. Sometimes, on a large surface, we will fire up the 3mm Festool 6", but often we just sand with a cork faced block if the planing went well, which it usually does. Some of the tropicals, such as sapele, are the exception, where sanding is a necessary evil for a clean surface.

Enjoy the quieter side of woodworking life.

[Marcus Ward]

I've got a #80, it's one of my favorite tools. I'm always tempted to buy another one 'in case something happens'. I've tried grinding it at 90 like a regular scraper and at 45 and the 45 works far better. Sharpen it like you would a plane iron, going through the grits and getting it mirror perfect before rolling the burr. You roll it just like a regular scraper burr, first parallel to the face, and then over on the bevel side. Having something very smooth, like a drill bit or carbide rod to turn the burr makes it even better in function. A rough rod will leave a rough burr and cause you to have to sand.

I never sand anymore, I just use the cabinet scraper. Sanding is the devil, I can't stand all the dust. Depending on the wood, a cabinet scraper will get a finish far finer than sandpaper. It'll take some practice to be able to get a surface smooth enough to put a black laquer finish on it but for normal finishes like BLO and shellac a good sharp scraper will be enough. This chair is entirely scraped, no sanding.

http://www.f-64.org/chair/10.jpg

[Rusty Elam]

Thanks for the info guys especially the part about not sanding much, that is music to my ears(or maybe my lungs).
I am going to hone the chisels like you said Mark, that is if I ever get all this Laquer off first....what a pain...but I sure dont want to contaminate my #1000/#6000 Waterstone.

Again thanks for the help you guys make it easy for us new guys without talking down to us.