Band saw blade jumps forward

[Jason Hanna]

I am the new owner of the Craftsman 14" Professional Bandsaw. I've gotten it set up, used the stock blade until my Timberwolfs came in (not that great of a blade but it ran well).

Anyway, I ordered two Timberwolf blades, a 1/4" and a 3/4" for resawing. I installed the 1/4" and it cuts like a red hot knife through butter. Absolutely perfect once tuning the saw to it.

I have been having problems with the 3/4" though. I installed it and it made quite a racket. It would jump forward as it went through the guides. I put a 6" known straight edge to the back and front of it across the weld and there was a 1/32" gap. I called Timberwolf and they sent a replacement immediately at no charge with no questions asked. I install the second one and I get the same thing, just not NEAR as bad, but I would be uncomfortable sawing with it. I put the straightedge back, and this time I measure .024 with a feeler gauge at the weld. Is this normal? I'm trying to be sure that it is the blade and not the saw before I give Timberwolf another call. Anyone else had this problem? Any other ideas to check? The other two blades (not even a light shines through) run great.

[Cody Colston]

I think you need to go with a 1/2" blade on that saw, even for resawing.

[Jeff Miller]

I think you need to go with a 1/2" blade on that saw, even for resawing.


I agree,I have that same saw and a 1\2" blade will saw anything you give it.





JEFF:)

[John Thompson]

Thrid the 1/2" blade. That saw would be taxed heavily to properly tension a 3/4" and you will find a 1/2" for re-saw is sufficient. Just be sure you get a low tooth count for the re-saw blade.

Sarge..

[Emmanuel Weber]

I have a similar problem with a 3/4" timberwolf.
If I set up the guide so the bearing just touch the back of the blade and then rotate the blade by turning a wheel manually, I can see a gap forming when the weld is in front of the guide In my case the gap is probably a tad bit more than 1/32.

Emmanuel

[Pete Bradley]

You shouldn't be able to measure an offset at the back of the weld. Sounds like the second one is bad too. Maybe they've got someone new welding.

I too think you'll get better results with a 1/2" though that's a separate issue from the weld.

Pete

[Jason Hanna]

I really don't think I'm having any problems tensioning the 3/4" blade. I've followed the blades instrustions to a T by tensioning it by the indictator and then backing off doing the flutter test. Works just as advertised.

1/2" vs. 3/4" has nothing to do with the blade jumping forward, right?

I may end up using a 1/2", but I just want to be sure this is a blade, not a saw issue. I will give Timberwolf another call tomorrow.

[glenn bradley]

No problems with a 2/3 TPI, 3/4" Timberwolf on the 17" saw. Run a 1/2" on the smaller saw with good results. Will probably try a 1/2" on the larger saw as several folks have reported good (or better) results with them.

[Burt Alcantara]

I use a Timberwolf 3/4x3 VPC blade for sawing green logs on my 14" Grizzly G0555. Since my guides are shot and have never been much good I don't use them. I raise them to 12" and keep them off the blade completely. The blade won't flutter so I set the tension so it feels "right." Basically, I fiddle with it until I get the least amount of deflection.

This probably goes against all conventional wisdom but it works for me.

Burt