Walt Caza
12-15-2007, 1:42 PM
Good Day to all,
This winter I have been heating my shop with a high eff. natural gas furnace.
Due to the high and ever higher cost of gas, I am only heating
the shop when I am there. This brings two drawbacks:
-I arrive in a frigid shop, and work with my coat on until it warms enough
(the tools stay cold a looong while...brrrrr)
-when I shut down at the end of a session, the warm arm cools and can
no longer carry it's moisture, threatening condensation and corrosion
I have too much hard-earned money invested in tools to go down without
a fight! This is what has been working for me so far, knock on wood:
I clean cosmolene gunk off of new machines, and generally clean with
WD-40 or citrus degreaser. I do final wipe with mineral spirits, which
leave minimal residue behind. I use a Scotchbrite pad, the same as a
dish scouring pad available everywhere.
Then I seal and protect against rust with Boings T-9 spray, which
is the only thing that has stopped rust in my shop conditions.
On top of that I use Bostik TopCote spray to make the tables slippery.
TopCote did not stop rust by itself in my experience, sorry.
Homemade jigs like crosscut sled get waxed on the bottom and rails.
I keep a piece of T-shirt in a lidded tub with a bit of mineral oil on it
to wipe down handplanes and chisels. I learned this here on the Creek.
(many have mentioned it, I learned it from Alan Turner thanks!)
I lightly wipe them off with a paper towel afterwards.
Many have good luck with pastewax, I have yet to find a source for
Johnson's here, which would be my first choice.
I live in Canada, just minutes south of Detroit. We are getting a foot of
Great Lakes effect snow today. I aim to be tucked into my warm
workshop, and hope you will be too!
be well,
Walt
:)
This winter I have been heating my shop with a high eff. natural gas furnace.
Due to the high and ever higher cost of gas, I am only heating
the shop when I am there. This brings two drawbacks:
-I arrive in a frigid shop, and work with my coat on until it warms enough
(the tools stay cold a looong while...brrrrr)
-when I shut down at the end of a session, the warm arm cools and can
no longer carry it's moisture, threatening condensation and corrosion
I have too much hard-earned money invested in tools to go down without
a fight! This is what has been working for me so far, knock on wood:
I clean cosmolene gunk off of new machines, and generally clean with
WD-40 or citrus degreaser. I do final wipe with mineral spirits, which
leave minimal residue behind. I use a Scotchbrite pad, the same as a
dish scouring pad available everywhere.
Then I seal and protect against rust with Boings T-9 spray, which
is the only thing that has stopped rust in my shop conditions.
On top of that I use Bostik TopCote spray to make the tables slippery.
TopCote did not stop rust by itself in my experience, sorry.
Homemade jigs like crosscut sled get waxed on the bottom and rails.
I keep a piece of T-shirt in a lidded tub with a bit of mineral oil on it
to wipe down handplanes and chisels. I learned this here on the Creek.
(many have mentioned it, I learned it from Alan Turner thanks!)
I lightly wipe them off with a paper towel afterwards.
Many have good luck with pastewax, I have yet to find a source for
Johnson's here, which would be my first choice.
I live in Canada, just minutes south of Detroit. We are getting a foot of
Great Lakes effect snow today. I aim to be tucked into my warm
workshop, and hope you will be too!
be well,
Walt
:)