Inlay Question

[Art Davis]

As a fairly new woodworker I haven't yet tackled inlays. On my latest project, I want to put a narrow strip of exotic wood (Wenge) into a slot in a type of rudimentary inlay, but I am having troubles getting an acurate width strip to insert. I thought I would just use the kerf from my tablesaw blade and cut a thin piece to fit. I am using a Delta contractor's saw with a Biesemeyer fence. I am using a Forrest WWII thin kerf blade, which I miked at 7/64 inch. So I cut a strip, say two inches wide, then move my fence to the left by 7/32"---but the cutoff strip turns out to be 1/8".

Can someone explain the birds and bees of cutting thin strips to me? I did a search here on "inlay" but really didn't see the answer to the question. If it has been discussed extensively, I'd appreciate getting the link(s).

I am using a Grripper, so am okay cutting the thin strips, safetywise.

Thanks.

Art

P.S. Wenge seems awfully hard. Any suggestions on working it?

[Todd Bin]

My setup is kinda the high tech way. But, I would cut the inlay strip first. Then measure the exact thickness using a digital micrometer (Let's say I got 3/32"). Then I would insert a small (say 1/16th) bit into my router and use my microfence edge guide to cut the groove exactly 3/32" +0.002 to fit the inlay exactly. It takes two passes with the router to get the inlay groove exact.

If you use some other method, then to get a tight fit try beveling the back edge of the inlay strip. That makes it a lot easier to get it into the groove.

[julie Graf]

it sounds like what you are doing is called ribbon inlay. i think fww did an article a few years back on it. I do it alot, and it's really easy once you get it down.

you can cut them on the table saw like you are, you will just have to play with the width. then sand the edges of one side to make them beveled in, it makes it easier to pound them into the groove.

or

you can cut them on the bandsaw and then sand them with a drum sander if you have one. then do the same with the bevel. this is the method i use.

the bevel is key - especially with wenge, which is hard. if you are doing straight lines you should be fine. curves with wenge are a nightmare. try a lighter/smaller hammer to pound them in and gentle pressure. if you whack at it, it will splinter.

have fun!

[Doug Shepard]

I've mainly done the channel with a router and cut the strips with a BS then drum sanded. But I always leave them just a hair thick and use a block plane to fit them. I use a scrap piece about 6" long with the same slot in it as the project and plane the inlay strip until it fits the block with just enough play that the strip can be pulled through the slot with some resistance. If the strip stops and binds, you've hit a high spot that needs a bit more planing. Once you add PVA glue and tap it in, the wood will swell and that tiny bit of looseness disappears.

[Bill Huber]

This is the way I do it, not saying it is the right way and would like input on it.

I cut the wood down to the height plus a little, then set it up on the saw.

I move the fence in until the wood is under one tooth of the saw and then measure with the calipers to make sure its the width I want plus a little bit more.
Cut it and then sand it down with a block with sandpaper on it so has to sand it flat.
Then install it and after gluing it sand it do with the top.

77104

[Al Willits]

Maybe cut and sand the strip to size then trace the strip with a scribe/knife on whatever your putting it on, then cut that out with a 1/16" router bit and chisel?

I've been able to get some pretty thin strips with a saw blade on my table saw.

Al

[Thom Sturgill]

I've seen jigs (I think Rockler sells one, and a recent mag had one you can make) that lets you make repeatable cuts. It rides in the left slot and is little more than an adjustable T. You adjust it to touch the wood once you have set cut the width the first time (I like Bill Huber's method). To cut additional pieces, just slide the wood and fence over to the jig and go.

[Michael Merrill]

I did a ribbon type inlay of Purple heart into Maple and I router my channel, then overcut my inlay on the TS, then just hand worked slowly to a good fit. I think the key is the patience on the hand work to get it just right.

Also label the piece clearly to ensure you get each piece fit for the proper location and they stay that way until glue up.