Music Stand

[Kevin Cole]

I have been asked to build a music stand similar to this one:http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Gallery/GalleryImage.aspx?id=4719 but with a diffrent table.

I can do everything but I am not sure how to make the legs curve with the main support. Could someone tell me how I would do this. Or if there is another way.

Thanks.

[Greg Cole]

Kevin,
I am guessing the legs aren't radiused to meet the post, I am thinking they are mortised. If they are radiused, I'd say some very careful sanding on an oscillating style sander and use of dowels, screws n plugs, pegs etc.....
My $0.02 is wagered on mortised though.

Greg

[jason lambert]

That is my guess as well.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

I would flatten them carefully before cutting the sliding DT. The trick is to not flatten an area wider than the leg width. If the shoulders of the legs are narrow enough, it may not be necessary to flatten the stand where the legs join, or just as easy to shape a curve on the shoulders.

Here's a link to Alice Frampton's (Alf) web site on making a version of a similar music stand:

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/musicstandindex.html

Take care, Mike

[Greg Cole]

There ya have your answer and a tutorial to boot.
Guess you need to buy one of Mikes saws and hand cut all your joinery for this project.;)
Jason, least we were in the right neighborhood... sort of.:rolleyes: The sliding dovetail is very useful but often overlooked in my 'hood.

Greg

[Jim Becker]

Like most constructions of this type, you put a flat on the column while it's still on the lathe jigged up to cut the sliding dovetails that you use to fasten the legs. If the flat exactly matches the width of the leg stock, it will appear that you have rounded them as long as you fair in the tops of the legs creatively.

[Kevin Cole]

Thanks guys.
Seeing as I dont have enough skill yet to make sliding dovetails, I think I will just make mortices with dowels. And one more quick question, How would you guys drill the hole through the whole thing?

[Jamie Buxton]

And one more quick question, How would you guys drill the hole through the whole thing?

One method is to rip the stock into two pieces, use a dado head or the like to make two half-channels in the stock, glue the two halves back together, and start turning. The hole is guaranteed to go straight down the length. I think that's how one in your photo was made. I think can see a grain seam.

[Steve Rowe]

Hi Kevin,
I have made 4 music stands similar to the ones you have pictured. To get the hole down the center, I took my turning blank and did a resaw operation with the bandsaw slicing about 1/3 of the thickness off. Mark it with a triangle so it will be easy to match. I then jointed the resawn faces to prepare for subsequent glueup. I used a router and cut a dado down the center of the thicker piece at the desired length. I wanted a square post but you could do this with a roundnose bit slicing the stock in half if you want. Wax the inside surfaces where the post will slide to minimize glue adherence where you don't want it. I then glued the two pieces back together. Have a rod with a scraper handy to scrape glue squeezeout.

Don't be fearful of using sliding dovetails in the base. They aren't extremely difficult but with a little practice, you can make a nice fit. I built a router jig to mount to the lathe. The same jig is used to flatten the sides where the legs attach and rout the dovetail slots. I used a router table to cut the dovetails on the legs.
Steve

[Brian Weick]

to drill this type of hole you would normally use a Shell auger for accurate wholes- the Shell auger attach's to the lathe tail stock - Morse tapper . the Shell auger is sometimes referred to as a "boring Bar" but you have to make sure your lathe is capable of handling the torque involved with the larger boring holes, if not - something has to give and I wouldn't want to be standing near that situation - that's for sure. I would not use a MT taper to increase the MT to accept a size of a #4 for large shell augers. The Quill in these smaller MT taper tail stocks is not designed to handle that amount of torque- I have heard of accidents of this similar scenario and it didn't sound like it was a pleasant experience.
Brian

[Kevin Cole]

I guess ill be doing the hole the way most of you said to.
Steve, could you post a picture of your router jig for the Sliding dovetails?

Thanks again.

[Steve Rowe]

Kevin,
I would be happy too except I no longer have it. It was basically a MDF box that I mounted to the ways. It wrapped around the bottom of the workpiece with guide bushing templates for the dovetails.
Steve

[Jim Becker]

You can see pictures of mine in this thread on the second page...posts 23 through 28 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32449&highlight=Candle&page=2) illustrate cutting the sliding dovetail and getting the three legs installed on a candle stand...essentially the same process for your music stand project. Simple and cheap. BTW, the dovetail bit I used was a 5/8" bit from my Leigh set.