Basic wood/woodworking questions from a newbie

[dickey peterson]

I haven't completed much in the way of fine furniture, merely some garage shelves and miscellaneous home repair projects. I would like to get setup to complete some basic projects like some cabinets with a bench/counter top (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=69480&highlight=workshop+cabinets) and a standalone bench. Then maybe something minimally more complicated. That said I have a couple questions that probably are no brainers to most of you seasoned woodcrafters.

1. Plywood has always been plywood to me. Seems there are several grades at various prices. Most of Wood magazine's projects recommend Birch plywood, which I finally found locally, and the cost is a lot more than the basic stuff. Is it worth it for shop cabinets? Sounds like a lot of people on this forum have used it for similar applications. How does this compare with Home Depot's "cabinet grade" plywood (about $10 cheaper per 4'x8' sheet)?

2. For hardwood edging, say to protect an MDF benchtop, is poplar a suitable substitution for maple? I'm sure it's preference, I just want it to last and look nice, so I figured hardwood would be better than pine or no edging at all.

Thanks in advance for your input.

[George Bregar]

The Depot stuff would be fine as would the poplar.

[Charles Wiggins]

I haven't completed much in the way of fine furniture, merely some garage shelves and miscellaneous home repair projects. I would like to get setup to complete some basic projects like some cabinets with a bench/counter top (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=69480&highlight=workshop+cabinets) and a standalone bench. Then maybe something minimally more complicated. That said I have a couple questions that probably are no brainers to most of you seasoned woodcrafters.


1. Plywood has always been plywood to me. Seems there are several grades at various prices. Most of Wood magazine's projects recommend Birch plywood, which I finally found locally, and the cost is a lot more than the basic stuff. Is it worth it for shop cabinets? Sounds like a lot of people on this forum have used it for similar applications. How does this compare with Home Depot's "cabinet grade" plywood (about $10 cheaper per 4'x8' sheet)?

The 'cabinet grade' plywood at Lowe's and Home Depot (i.e., The BORGs) is generally not very good stuff. Most of it comes from China these days, and is uneven and often had voids and sloppy repairs - and often is not a consistent thickness. This includes the the Birch they sell as well. You can get by with it for shop furniture, but if you can find a local hardwood dealer that sells true cabinet grade ply you'll make you life and projects much better. Also note that there's regular birch plywoods (cabinet, A-1, etc.) and Baltic Birch which is 'The Cadillac' of plywoods. It is a much finer grade and has more layers per inch. Normal 3/4" Birch usually has 9 layers of veneer, Baltic has 13 layers.

Check around your area for local hardwood dealers if you want to find the better stuff. Check the Yellow Pages under 'lumber'. And here's quick video tutorial on what to expect when you go (http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-4-a-lumbering-feeling/) If you're just getting started, The Wood Whisperer Video Archive is a great place to find out about a lot of basics (http://thewoodwhisperer.com/archive/).

Here's a quick rundown of the different kinds of plywood grades (http://www.hoganhardwoods.com/hogan/pages/technical/technical_03.htm)


2. For hardwood edging, say to protect an MDF benchtop, is poplar a suitable substitution for maple? I'm sure it's preference, I just want it to last and look nice, so I figured hardwood would be better than pine or no edging at all.

Suitability is really your call, but I like Poplar as a sub for maple. I never know whether to describe it as a soft-hardwood or a hard-softwood, but it's reasonably durable if you not going to really abuse or stress it, but again, Maple is much better if you can afford it.

Good luck and keep asking questions.

[dickey peterson]

Wow, Thanks for all the info Charles. So helpful. I think I'll be spending a lot of time catching up on Wood Whisperer episodes.

[Brian Dormer]

If your HD is anything like mine, the price of poplar isn't all that different from Red Oak or Maple (they are all together in the "hardwood" section). IMHO, poplar is a bit too soft to be "workbench tough". Unless the price is really out of whack - go for the oak or maple.

bd

[George Noeth]

Dickie,
If you are going to make many projects or even a few, you would be wise to find a good hardwood dealer / cabinet shop supply store. At the big box stores you will pay much more for inferior material.

[frank shic]

dickey, check out some of your local lumber yards. the price may be a little higher but the quality in the plywood and solid wood will be a little bit higher than what you find at HD. the greatest part about doing business with these smaller shops is that they will usually help load the sheet of plywood for you. the solid wood stock is also 13/16" instead of 3/4" which gives you a little room for jointing and planing. please post pics when you're done, ok? :D

[Doug Shepard]

If you're going to paint it, poplar is probably the best choice there is. Nothing paints quite as nicely. But if not, and you want something more durable go with maple. Unless you're after a darker contrasting wood, in which case you've got scads of choices. I wont comment on the ply as Charles covered that very well. You didnt mention where you're located (BTW you can have this show up in the top RH corner of your posts if you edit your profile in the User CP area). You'll probably get good advice on who carries the better stuff in your area if folks know where you're at.

[Art Mann]

Where I live, red oak is quite common and cheap. I would much prefer it to poplar for work surfaces because it is so much harder and more durable.

I have bought plywood at both Home Depot and Lowes and they have never failed to disappoint. I swore them off forever. One of my recent projects was painted bookshelves made of birch plywood, which I bought at Lowes. I cut a dado into a vertical piece and found the interior plies were literally rotten. I couldn't use it because the structure was too weak to support any weight. The material looked fine on the surface. I took it back and got my money back. Material of that quality is no bargain at any price.

[Rick Gooden]

What I have found is that the local lumber yard (around since the 1930s) has good quality oak A-1 plywood for $61 a sheet and it is good stuff, don't skimp here as it is the foundation for a good "box" project. Interestingly enough the dimensional lumber such as poplar, oak, maple, etc. is much cheaper at the lumber yard as well as them having a better selection. So in the long run the project may cost about the same or maybe a little more, but the quality will be significantly better. Also, once you get to know the folks at the lumber yard they will take care of you.

[dickey peterson]

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the advice. Based on the tone of some other posts in regard to HD and Lowes, I thought a lumber yard/hardwood dealer may be a better choice. I guess its a little intimidating as this is all new (wood types, dimensions, quality, etc.). I think the Wood Whisperer cleared up some of that for me. Thanks again. I'll post some photos once I get started.