Pictures of my shop (Retry)

[Larry Browning]

I downloaded the recommended PIXresizer and I will try again to attach pics of the shop. These were taken right after I moved in last September.
Larry

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Another nice shop! Wish mine was that big....I'm thinking about a 1023 slx as well....

[Tyler Howell]

Larry,

We are going to let Terry off the hook this time cause you came through for him. I can see why he had some shop envy. Great looking space. Keep the pics coming.;)

[Terry Hatfield]

Larry,

Good job on the pics. Now everybody can see why I was jealous. :D

Post a couple of outside pics too.

Terry

[Arvin Brown]

Better keep those pictures - it will NEVER be that clean again!

[Ken Garlock]

Beautiful shop. You were wise to make it big, I wish I had made mine larger than the 25x25 it is. You certainly did the job right. I like it very much.

Now where are all the power tools? ;)

[Tyler Howell]

Better keep those pictures - it will NEVER be that clean again!


Arvin,

Better look at Terry's Web site. Now there is Mr. Klean! ;) I want to be like him when ( if) I grow up.:cool:

[Dennis Peacock]

Arvin,

Better look at Terry's Web site. Now there is Mr. Klean! ;) I want to be like him when ( if) I grow up.:cool:

Give it up Tyler......!!!!! Being like Terry in keeping a shop THAT clean is a FULL time effort. :cool:

[Terry Hatfield]

Arvin,

Better look at Terry's Web site. Now there is Mr. Klean! ;) I want to be like him when ( if) I grow up.:cool:


HEY!!!!! I resemble that remark. :p

t

[Rob Littleton]

HEY!!!!! I resemble that remark. :p

t

Just when I thought I was getting to be a big boy with a "shop", I see a real shop.........

Where are the kids bikes that you have to step over and where are all the wifes garden tools........

Man, I guess I have to stop and think here now..............

Nice looking shop man.

[Terry Hatfield]

Where are the kids bikes that you have to step over and where are all the wifes garden tools........

I got a seperate shed for all that junk. You can't even see over the pile in there. The shop is my own personal space......well....that's the bluff I laid down anyway. So far it's working. :D

Terry

[John Miliunas]

Nice shop, Larry! Looks like you did a knock-'em-up job on everything, from the drywall to the floor. Nice lighting, to boot! Hmmmm... but it seems to me that you've also got *plenty* of room for more toyls! :D :cool:

[Larry Browning]

Nice shop, Larry! Looks like you did a knock-'em-up job on everything, from the drywall to the floor. Nice lighting, to boot! Hmmmm... but it seems to me that you've also got *plenty* of room for more toyls! :D :cool:
Yeah,
I hoping to put a few more toys in there very soon.

[Chris Padilla]

What John said, "Plenty 'o room in there" ...but not for long, I guess!

Great space...great space...drool, drool, drool....

Nice plumbing job!

[John Miliunas]

Great space...great space...drool, drool, drool....

Nice plumbing job!

Got that right! Wish I had running water in my space. Heck, I'd even be happy to have it close by. I have to "jug" mine out to the shop in empty milk containers. :( Oh well...Can't have everything, I guess. :cool:

[Chris Padilla]

Does your buddy with the shop in the woods have a trencher out back all nice and rusty???

[John Miliunas]

Does your buddy with the shop in the woods have a trencher out back all nice and rusty???

Naw, unfortunately he does not. He does have an older Crapsman garden tractor, which he always seems to leave out and then, when it breaks down, he moans about what a piece of garbage it is! What I really need to find is a nice and rusty skid-steer! :D :cool:

[Larry Browning]

What John said, "Plenty 'o room in there" ...but not for long, I guess!

Great space...great space...drool, drool, drool....

Nice plumbing job!

Chris,
The plumbing is for the radiant floor heat system. I thought some might enjoy seeing how it is hooked up. It is a closed system, the water just goes round and round. I have another little water heater in the toilet room. (It's not a bathroom, no bathtub)

Larry

[Jim Becker]

Wish I had running water in my space. Heck, I'd even be happy to have it close by.

Well, I have that during warm weather, although no "drain" yet.


Larry, that's a great looking shop. Plenty of light and lots of space. Impressive! And putting in the WC was a good move. I want that someday, too.

[Joe Bourbois]

Nice shop and excellent lighting. Bet you can't wait to bring all the toys in.

[Larry Browning]

Nice shop and excellent lighting. Bet you can't wait to bring all the toys in.
Joe,
All my toys are in there! I just need more! Donations will be accepted :D

[Tyler Howell]

Larry,
What are you using in the floor to carry your heat?? Copper, PECS:confused:. A pro plumber as well;).
Any advantage to running anti freeze in the mix??

[Larry Browning]

Larry,
What are you using in the floor to carry your heat?? Copper, PECS:confused:. A pro plumber as well;).
Any advantage to running anti freeze in the mix??

Tyler,
I ordered all the stuff from Radiant Floor Co. in Vermont. They are geared for the do-it-yourselfer and they helped me with the design and answered my all my questions. I used 7/8 PEX tubing and ran it between each floor joist. It is attached to the floor with special alum. plates stapled to the underneath side of the floor. Then I added 2" foil backed insulation under that. They also supplied all the fittings, gauges and valves I needed to complete the project. I bought the copper pipe and insulation locally. I didn't use anti freeze because I live in Arkansas where it doen't get below freezing very often, and when it does, it doesn't stay there very long. I am very satisfied with quality of the heat in the shop, in fact, it is actually more comfortable in there than in the house. I keep the thermostat set at 60 and that is plenty warm. I have noticed that there is a pretty wide temp range with it. After the pump kicks in it takes a while for the hot water to circulate all the way through the system and start actually heating the room (15-20 minutes) and the room temp continues to drop a little. Then, when the pump shuts off, the room temp continues to rise until the water in the tubing cools. This cycle causes a room temp range from about 58 to almost 70. I guess this is just the nature of the beast, but it is always comfortable in there to me.
I started with a full propane tank in November and have already had to refill it about 3 weeks ago (end of January). That cost me about $250. I was hoping for a little better efficiency than that. I will probably add another 4" of unfaced insulation underneath to see if I can improve the efficiency. Living in Arkansas, I figured that 2" would be enough.

[Robert Ducharme]

Larry,

It sounds like you attached your tube under the floor and are radiating through the wood. Is that correct?

If it is, the temperature variations are because you have very little heat sink in the system. With a deep heat sink and a separate sensor, it is possible to maintain a pretty steady temperature.

Might also look at tightening up the swing on the termostat but that would cycle the boiler too often. Heat sink is critical.

[Larry Browning]

Larry,

It sounds like you attached your tube under the floor and are radiating through the wood. Is that correct?

If it is, the temperature variations are because you have very little heat sink in the system. With a deep heat sink and a separate sensor, it is possible to maintain a pretty steady temperature.

Might also look at tightening up the swing on the termostat but that would cycle the boiler too often. Heat sink is critical.

Yes, that is correct. Heat sink?????? Please explain. No one ever said anything about a heat sink. I'll bet it's expensive and hard to install, probably need it done by a licensed heat sink specialist who charges by the minute, and has to come from Kansas City. :(

[Robert Ducharme]

The heat sink is basically a mass of material the heat is retained in. Very difficult to do with the under-floor stapled tubes.

In most cases, the heat sink is having the tube buried in 4" of concrete or 1.5" of gypcrete poured on wooden floor substrate. The concrete stores heat and when a zone opens, the water flowing through the tube picks up heat from areas that are hot enough and cycles it to areas that are cooler without requiring a boiler to kick off. This makes the entire concrete mass the same temperature.

I am in Colorado and in the winter time, when I do not get direct solar heating (night/clouds), the temperate does not vary over 1-2 degrees. I also have a floor sensor that detects the difference between the concrete temperature and the thermostat temperature. Solar heating can cause it to get hotter but that just warms up the concrete heat sink and is used during the evening to eliminate the boiler working.

What to do in your case? You could disconnect all the tubing, place it on top of the floor of your workshop (using staples), and mix/pour gypcrete on the floor to a depth of 1.5". Use 2x2 as scree boards to make it totally level. Could also use concrete. Check around to see what someone could do it for to avoid the hassle. Generally not too expensive. Once the concrete is set, paint the floor or put on linoleum (spelling?). This would lose you 1.5" of ceiling height but would help keep the temperature more constant. I don't remember if I saw a mixing valve in your system (takes water from the tubes and routes it around the system without going back through the boiler). The mixing valve is also required to do what I indicated in the previous paragraph. In your part of the country I do not know if this is really worth the change.

I would definitely add insulation below the floor no matter whether or not you move the tubes above. In my situation, I have 2" of foam insulation below the concrete.

[Robert Ducharme]

I have attached a picture of a mixing valve. The blue valve shown in the picture. The hot water from the boiler comes in from the left and goes out at the top (green recirc pump at top). The return water comes in from the right side and is either recirculated back out the top or sent out the bottom of the valve to the boiler. The handle controls the percentage of mix. You can see the different zone lines (and valves - just below yellow handles) where some of the zones return. We also use the boiler to heat the hot water maker so just a single point of heat for the whole house.

[Larry Browning]

I have attached a picture of a mixing valve. The blue valve shown in the picture. The hot water from the boiler comes in from the left and goes out at the top (green recirc pump at top). The return water comes in from the right side and is either recirculated back out the top or sent out the bottom of the valve to the boiler. The handle controls the percentage of mix. You can see the different zone lines (and valves - just below yellow handles) where some of the zones return. We also use the boiler to heat the hot water maker so just a single point of heat for the whole house.

Whoo Tonto!!!! This is a woodshop, not a hospital. Your setup looks great, and if I lived in Colorado I would be doing the same thing. My goal was to have a heating system I could set and forget so I could concentrate on making sawdust. Like I said before, the temp range thing really doesn't bother me that much, I built my shop with floor joists on purpose, because it is much eaiser on the feet and back. Plus, remember, I live in Arkansas, where winter is just a tease. I think I can count on one hand the number of days it has gotten below 25 all winter. Today it is 70 and absouletly beautiful, I left the doors open all day in the shop. However, I think I do need to add the extra insulation to save on fuel cost. It should pay for itself in a couple of years.